soflarick

How did you determine the surplus stick powder needed mag primers? This is an education for me. I presume using a chrony to see SD and ES of a cartridge would assist in determining if the primer is doing its job properly. Inconsistencies in chrony data would help, but I'm aware of other variables affecting what the chrony shows. Are WSR primers considered acceptable for AR usage? I've seen conflicting info online about it. Not just cup thickness, but the metal used to form the cup that has changed how Winchester primers handle floating firing pins. I believe I've seen somewhere that Win SR primers are a bit hotter than the CCI 400s, no? Thank you for your feedback.

Processing isn't difficult, but time consuming. I'm not looking forward to trimming ( I don't have one of them there fancy Girauds).

I have a lot of CCI 450s and Wolk 556 primers, both hotter than the CCI 400s I've been using. It's my understanding that ball powders "need" a hotter primer because they are more resistant to ignition. I'd like to find out which ball powders for an AR type rifle in 223 caliber would function best with hotter than standard primers. I have CFE223, Re10x and 15, Varget, 2230. Thinking of tryping Benchmark or PP 1200r. I don't have enough of any of them to load much, but I'd like to be armed with some information when I powder search again. Thanks.

That is a really interesting thread. I don't often check that website.

How many and type of cases has that media handled? Did you add anything after flushing it out?

Definitely don't force things. I did put a grade 8 washer beneath the primer punch. Did make a perceived improvement. I did adjust the primer system as per those videos. Spoke with a Hornady tech, very helpful, and they're sending some replacement parts.

Picked one up on sale. Hand fed cases and bullets at first. Got things timed well. Other than the slower speed of no case feeder, things were going well. Doesn't fling powder like my friend's Dillon 550. I keep it clean, and use a little One Shot here and there. The powder measure is super accurate for pistol charges. Issues arose when I added the case feeder. After getting the feeder timing where I thought it was good, things went pretty well for a couple hundred rounds. Then the timing went haywire, cases started getting crushed, the plastic mount holding the primer rod developed a crack and broke off, a pawl chipped, cases were tipping. I started doing some research here and elsewhere, and these are what I've done so far: Used a lock washer between shellplate washer and bolt, so just snug keeps it tight Used a 12ga shell hull over the drop tube. Tried the PVC pipe thing, but the shell hull works better. Just use the crimped end to have a nice friction fit. Put some felt underneath the case feeding arm to push at the bottom of the case Added a small block of plastic on the left side of the case funnel to keep the 9mm cases from tumbling and jamming up the feeder. Put a 1/4" hole at the base of the case feeder tub to allow tiny bits of debris to fall out, instead of collecting in the tub. That works well. Those things helped, but there's still some tipping of the cases. I am going to contact Hornady to find out if they updated their shellplates to cure the issue, and see if they'll warranty the pawls and primer upper mount. Maybe they updated the case feeder funnel, too, but I just received it. The press was bought new in March. The shellplates were received at the same time as the press. Any other tips to offer? BTW, the Dillon primer tubes are great, and much cheaper than those from Hornady.

Low VOC, barely any smell. I don't run the tumbler nearly as long as what I've read from some. Maybe a couple hours. If the dryer sheets look dirty, I'll put in a couple more pieces and run it a little longer. Wiping down the tub with a moist towel really helps, too. I couldn't believe the amount of junk coating the tub. I add some flitz to the mix afterward. I think the longest I've tumbled was around a couple hours. I've also tried the blue shop towels instead of the dryer sheets for cleaning the media.

Good to know, thanks. Can't find E3 anywhere, either.

Dryer sheets cut up and a good squirt of low voc mineral spirits, and run without brass. Cleans the media pretty well. Then wipe down the tub once the media is out. I found wiping the tub interior removes a lot of crud, and keeps things cleaner, longer.

6mm in an AR platform is supposed to be extremely accurate and effective. IMO, it'd be a heck of a cartridge for a lot of purposes. Low recoil, high energy, great accuracy. Not going to bother unless it went mainstream.

Dunno if this vendor is a supporter of the site, so I'll just post the link http://www.primaryarms.com/category-s/6034.htm?utm_source=bronto&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Scopes+over+499&utm_content=Memorial+Day+Savings+at+Primary+Arms&utm_campaign=Memorial+Day+Sale+2014 There's a 15% off deal going on right now. The Vortex scopes are appealing. I receive a discount through Burris, but even with the discount, the cost on the XTR2 will be difficult to swallow.

Thanks for the info. It appears 18" is an ideal length for my application. If/when a scope were added to the rifle, what height rings, or style of rings, do you all use? What scope brand/type would be the best bang for the buck under $500. I have a Nikon Buckmaster, and it's quite nice, but my scope experience is limited. More iron sight and holographic experience.

Resurrecting the thread. Out of the GAP, JP, etc rifles, what barrel length have you all felt is a good all-arounder? 18" or 20"?

Info I need at the right time. Accumulating components right now, and have not decided on a BCG or gas block. It sounds like using a bolt with dual extractor springs is the most reliable system. Perhaps an adjustable gas block is a better idea up front than what I've used in the past. What barrel and stock did you end up using? I intend to use an A2 tube, spring, and buffer, but not sure about the stock.

Starting a similar endeavor. I ordered a PRS, then found the MOE stock. Since both are on the way, I intend to compare the two before making a decision. The PRS does, however, appear to be a bit heavy. I don't think my body is so out of the ordinary that the MOE with/without a buttplate swap would do the trick. How is the cheek weld with the MOE?

Someone asked what type of airsoft pistol would be good for practicing with both eyes open. I think a CO2 operated airsoft is better than spring loaded. The CO2 will cycle the pistol, whereas the spring loaded models I'm aware of do not. I've been practicing keeping both eyes open, and found a good deal on a CO2 airsoft. Tried finding one that appeared like what I'm familiar with, but wound up settling on something that worked, was reasonably priced, and fit a holster I had.

How have you all found E3 to be compared to Clays? I use Xtreme 230gr hp plated. Down to last pound of Clays, and I'm pretty sure the local store has a supply of E3. In addition, I am also reloading 9mm with Xtreme 124gr hp plated. I know that's another forum, but instead of posting there (felt it'd just increase noise ratio), I was wondering if anyone here has found E3 to be a good powder for that 9mm bullet. Thanks.

Not important to me, but I thought consistency would lead to improved shooter accuracy. Consistency in that the mixed cases I shoot all seal properly, not letting more/less gas escape. I tested from 3.8 through 4.4 when working up the load. 4.0 and 4.2 were most accurate, so I chose 4 for recoil and economy of powder. Thanks for the advice.

I thought perhaps a tighter crimp would allow the case to expand more, sealing the case in the chamber better, hence my query. I'll try .470 and see how it performs with the same COAL and powder charge. Thanks.

XDM .45, used for steel challenge and indoor paper punching matches. I'm currently running 4gr Clays with Xtreme 230hp bullets, COAL 1.25. I use a Lee FCD. Tinkered with the crimp from .472 through no crimp, and settled on .473. It's obvious the cases aren't sealing; the carbon marks are plain to see. I was wondering if a tighter crimp would be better for the round, while maintaining accuracy, but not so much that the case will dig into the plated bullet. Yes, I intend to test on my own, but thought I'd ask here as well. Thanks.

Thank you for the link. Down to a pound of Clays and looking for a viable replacement.

I've been shooting steel matches with the OEM XDM holster, and I'd like to try a Blade Tech. Tried a friends, and liked it. Did some research on XDM holsters, and it appears the Blade Tech is popular. Question is do you all favor the drop and offset type or the standard type? I used to carry a drop and offset when I was on the job, but that was for duty, and it was a pain in the butt. For competition, it's not as critical. I think remaining consistent is key, so I am leaning toward a standard style to emulate holsters I may carry off duty. Tech help is appreciated.

1903a3 bolt action. Hornady OAL length gauge, Hornady modified 30-06 case, Hornady bullet comparator. Bullet is Nosler CC 168 boat tail Used the Hornady OAL length kit, got 2.808 with the comparator. Used my case sized in an RCBS FL die, same bullet, closed bolt, then used dowel to tap a bit to seat the shoulder up against the chamber since I figured the bolt alone wouldn't push the shoulder all the way. I was correct as a couple light taps with the dowel moved the case forward just a bit. Using the comparator, I got 2.833. The Hornady case headspaced at 2.040, my case (as well as most other cases I checked regardless of manufacturer) spaced at 2.043. I know some say the Hornady cases aren't going to be perfect matches to the firearm, and to use the "old" DIY system of pushing an empty case and bullet through with the bolt to check true OAL. Why is there such a difference in OAL between the Hornady case and my case (same bullet)? They headspaced very close to each other, and I pushed my case in all the way with a dowel. Should I abandon the Hornady kit and just let the bolt determine OAL to adjust bullet setback from the lands when reloading? I can drill and tap my case to match the threads of the Hornady case if that would help. Thanks for the help. Edit: checked my Garand Service Grade. I did not disassemble the bolt for the test, so I'm sure the ejector pushed on my case in the test. Hornady kit measured 2.846, my case and the SAME bullet measured 2.849. I understand there's the difference between the 03a3's bolt action and the Garand's semi auto action.