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Posts posted by Jetskidawg
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13 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
I think he is looking for .40 caliber.
Good point, thx.
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I have Extreme Engineering parts in mine and I’m very happy.
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And if you like DW, which I’ve heard nothing but good things about, Ben Stoeger Pro Shop has ‘em in stock (the PM9).
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I originally chose .40 for the major/minor option, but found I didn’t like the mag changes with 10 rds in a 10mm/40 mag (and we do a lot of mag changes!). Great for major, not so much for minor, at least for me. Thus, I added a 9mm single stack to the mix.
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There are good options out there but it takes patience. I picked up a Sig in 40 and sent it to a very reputable smith who builds 2011/1911’s. In those capable hands he made it like a full custom build. I run that in major. Did the same with a Rock Island in 9mm and will be running it in minor this season.
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I believe it’s an issue with the spring itself, the catch moves freely without the spring.
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Thanks for the advice, much appreciated!
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I have a 1911 with a stiff magazine release. Should I order a reduced power spring or is it ok to clip coils? If clipping coils is ok, how many is enough/too much?
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It fit like a glove and performs as expected. Thanks for the recommendations and tips.
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9 hours ago, robertg5322 said:
To be fair, people gravitate to something else because something else is what all the cool kids are using, and they're told you can't be competitive without the latest and greatest stuff. Or it's shinier, or cooler looking. They move to a JP Rifle, then spend a ton more money trying to make it lighter and shorter. Nothing against JP Rifles, they make some nice stuff that works really well, but they're not known as the company that makes lightweight rifles. If the Kel Tec was $1,200.00, it'd probably be more popular, which is funny in a weird way.
No saying the Sub2000 is the right tool for the job, or even that it's a good tool for the job. But it is a tool for the job. And you're not going to find a smaller, more compact, lighter 9mm rifle out there anywhere near the same price. And they're fun. If the question is "can I compete with a Kel Tec?" the answer is "yes". If the question is "can I have a blast with a Kel Tec?" the answer is definitely "yes". If the question is "can I be competitive with a Kel Tec?", the answer is "yes, but you're going to have to work harder than someone with a purpose built gun."
If it's all you have, bring it out and shoot it. Look around and see what people are using, and what issues they're having. Figure out what you want without spending a ton of money. Enough guys already did that, and they're more than happy to share their experience with you so you don't have to. Or just shoot your Kel Tec and get good with it. I know a guy who raced motorcycles. He always said "it's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than it is to ride a fast bike slow".
Very well said! There are GM’s, well at least one, running a Kel-Tec (and no, it’s not me, haha).
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Thank you Braxton1 and Aircooled6racer, I agree installation quality matters. Based on the feedback I’ve seen the C&H design recognizes and addresses this risk.
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TTI basepads work well. They provide a nice index for consistent draw from the pouch, and they are very easy to remove and install. Not sure they add a lot of weight, but IMO enough to give a little extra in dropping free. I agree with other’s posts about Armor All or a silicone rag in the magwell.
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52 minutes ago, iflyskyhigh said:
I bought the C&H Defender polymer plate for the Holosun 508T V2.
I was a little skeptical of the polymer plate but I love it. Rock solid. Sits closer to the slide. And it takes up all the extra room so there is no room for the RDS To live anywhere.
I’m tough on my guns. But Arron Cowan of Sage Dynamics is WAY harder. He beat the snot out of the polymer plate and gave it the thumbs up.
Good point, I should have looked up Aaron’s review. He does “quality” torture tests!
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This is great feedback, thank you. I’ve heard of too many MRDS launching off the factory MOS plate and want to avoid it. Sounds like C&H has it figured out.
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Considering the above mentioned adapter plate. Any experience? Worth it?
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On 2/13/2019 at 7:56 AM, Hi-Power Jack said:
Not sure you can upgrade a Kel-Tec trigger
Look at M-Carbo’s Site. They advertise sub 5#, but my experience was sub 3#.
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I actually have competed with one that had the M-Carbo parts installed. It was really fun, had a sub 3# trigger, and ran flawless. It wasn’t like a blinged out short stroked hot rod pcc, but it was enjoyable and a consistent conversation starter.
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8 hours ago, belus said:
Its actually on a whole dedicated press without a primer system. I like being able to dump either 40 or 9mm in the casefeeder and process without changing anything, though you can't process a mixed batch of 9 and 40 this way. And I say process, but it might be better described as expensive automatic decapper.
The toolhead has four dies on it:
Dillon universal decapping dieLee universal decapping die, with FFB RCBS pin conversion
Dillon 40sw sizing die
Lee 40sw U-die
9mm sizing and swaging are done while loading. It goes much more smoothly when I know all the brass is primer free. I load 40sw on a 650 or 550 and it takes no effort with the brass already resized.
Wow, what a nice setup!
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8 hours ago, George16 said:
I highly recommend FW Arms Primer Popper Auto-Case centering Decapper/Deprimer. I have the original auto centering decapper but this new one is better according to people who has use it. It’s out of stock now but will be available next week.
Thanks for the tip!
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And is it worth getting a universal decapper?
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On 8/10/2020 at 6:49 AM, belus said:
I process 9mm on a 1050 set up for 40sw: same M case feed shuttle, small case feed plate, W shell plate, and #2 locator buttons except for the first button. I don't swage while processing and I haven't tried loading 9mm in this setup, but it might save you some caliber conversion time if you're adventurous.
When you process on your 1050, what stations do you make changes to? I’m guessing you disable the powder thrower, but do you do anything with the primer feed or crimp stations? And do you leave the rest? Or do you set up a separate toolhead?
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So I took my (new to me) CED out for a test drive. I ran two 20-shot strings. It picked up every shot and the results between the two strings were very close. I’m confident it’s consistent, but what’s a good way to know if it’s accurate?
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I have a CED M2 (used) coming soon. Any tips?
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Thanks for sharing, great stuff!
Budget SS Pistol Upgrades?
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
Are you dipping your toe in the water or do you want to jump in? Answering that question will set you in the right direction. If you’re dipping your toe in the water, do just what it takes to make the system reliable. I say system, because the magazines matter. You can move a reliable set-up if you want to upgrade later. If you want to jump in, you’ve got some other options. One is to make sure you have an in-spec 1911 with a good reputation (that’s does necessarily not mean expensive…). If you have a good gunsmith you trust, they can make it race ready on a realistic budget. Another path is to buy a nice 1911 like a DW, which is pretty much ready out of the box, but doesn’t cost a custom build price. Based on what you were sharing, the custom build is not what you’re looking for, but boy are they nice. I personally went the “buy a good 1911 and send to my gunsmith” route. He is known for high end 1911 and 2011 builds. Very happy.