niroth81

Like others have said your weak hand isn't great. You are chasing the gun out with it. Get your weak hand palm over your belly button as you get your grip, shove the top of the first finger your your weak hand right up under the trigger guard as you get the gun clear of the holster and barrel level; let your weak hand roll over to establish your full firing grip. Here your weak hand should already be moving towards your center line: Your hand at this position should already be at your centerline ready to "accept" the gun. You should have your weak hand on the gun here. Top of your first finger jammed under the trigger guard. As you push outwards (I'm not tacticool and don't use pushing outwards as a part of the draw stroke but for the purposes of explaining this bit) your weak hand should roll forwards. Your weak hand thumb should be pointing towards the target and your wrist should be basically locked in that rolled state. This will help give you a more consistent grip. I noticed that on a couple of your draws your weak hand finger was in a different position. Sometimes flat against your strong hand (second draw), sometimes with your first finger curled (first draw). Relax your shoulders a little too. If you are shooting USPSA/IPSC, I'd encourage you to move your holster forwards an inch or so (so the front of the holster is in line with the front of the black stripe on your shirt). This will reduce the need for your hand to go back and can give you a little edge on speed with less wasted movement. All this coming to you from a D grade production shooting who hit B grade in 12 months, moved to open and started beating master graders. The only way to go faster is to go faster, that's why we all love dry fire! We do all love dry fire right?? I was recently doing some dry fire practice with some club mates. At the start of the dry fire practice they were struggling with 2.5 second draw with one shot on the wall. By the end of it, 45 minutes or so, they were racing me a 0.9 seconds and getting a consistent grip, sight picture and were shocked that all it takes is some basics and to push yourself. You are doing fantastic! Keep up the good work, be honest with yourself during your dry fire. Keep using your video to look at what you are doing with both dry fire and live fire; slow it down frame by frame and you'd be amazed at what you can see! Well done, expect to see you in the sub 1 second draw in no time at all! Jase

Can someone show me the differences between the tanfog and the henning mag well?

I've been shooting production for about 12 months and have now moved to open. This was one of our selection matches; an area match equiv for those of you outside Australia. I'd had the new gun for 3 weeks at this point, this was my 3rd time in live fire though I'd done some dry fire during the weeks. I know that posting a whole match is probably a little hard to give info on, maybe just let me know which stage you are talking about so we are all on the same page I'd love to hear any advice or criticism that people may have. Thanks Guys & Gals, Jase

Wow; calm down guys. For the record, I'm not interested in getting a super short reset, nor am I asking for step by step trigger job instructions. The work that I've done has given me the trigger I want, the question was for curiosity; for information from people who have more experience than I do. I was simply asking for clarification on what you posted Cha-Lee, not trying to get a different answer. The adjustments that I've made are done with full knowledge of how those specific parts/faces interact and what I've done doesn't seem to match what you had said but has yielded the a shorter reset. I've read a lot of threads that talk about getting shorter, crisper trigger breaks and none of them talk about the angles on that leg, only the length. Just because someone asks for information doesn't mean they are going to go out and act on it. Some people like information just for the sake of knowledge. Prae, I've looked at the xtreme hammer and may get that and the xtreme trigger as well at some point. I'll shoot the gun the way it is for a few months before I do though, because the trigger is pretty much exactly where I want it.

Hmmm, so like I said it will effect the whole trigger pull. I am talking about is the point between where the trigger bar is no longer lifting the sear, and where the TB lifts to reset. The distance it has to travel forwards to stop lifting the sear is shorter for sure. Once the trigger bar is no longer pushing the lower leg backwards (and no longer lifting the sear) the trigger bar still has to travel forwards to clear the lower leg and lift to reset. What must one do (other than what I've done) to reduce this travel. Jase

Cha-Lee, thanks for your feedback. I haven't touched the hammer hooks and have only shortened and changed the angle very slightly of the lower sear leg. This has resulted in a trigger further to the rear of the trigger guard (shortening the leg so the leg doesn't extend so far forwards) which suits my hand/finger better, and the slight change of angle has changed the reset? Is this what you mean when you refer to the downward length? I've changed the angle from this: / to more of an upright angle | and the trigger bar doesn't have to move forward so far to clear the leg and come back up. If you happen to have a picture that'd be great. I haven't had any function issues at all and the engagement angle of the trigger bar and sear is still positive. I'm curious as to how the hammer hooks change reset? I know they will change the required trigger pull distance to lift the sear, but the trigger bar has to come forwards of the lower leg to pop up for the next shot, how does the hammer hook height change this? In my mind it'll change the total length of trigger travel during the pull/reset cycle but doesn't actually directly change the distance to reset.

I've filed back the reset leg on the sear to get the break point a little further back in the trigger guard. The pre-travel and over-travel have been adjusted as well as they can be without having reset issues or rubbing on the hammer. In filing the leg back, I've kept exactly the same angle as it originally had. I'm wondering how much the angle can be changed to reduce the forward travel on reset, without becoming a safety issue. I would think it will still have to have a least a few degrees of angle to stay safe. How close to 90 degrees to the trigger bar can it be without causing malfs. What is the best way to measure the angle on the leg as it engages the trigger bar to make sure you don't have a negative angle? Jase

Well BB, I am bloody disappointed that there are no photos of that. C'Mon mate, pick your game up Glad to hear that it's ready for your match on the weekend.

Shooting left makes sense because of your low elevation adjustment on the tanfog mount. the thumb rest being in the way of the adjustment screws is just stupid. Who designed this thing and didn't notice that! For what it's worth, I loctited the front 3 screws and used a fourth screw like the front ones while I was making adjustments to the cmore. Then once it was right put the thumbrest back on. Mute point now anyway as I've moved to the tanfo rest. I used cap head screws on mine and because the cap OD is slightly more than the mount holes in the c-more they tend to lock it in. Let me know if you want me to send you some. For what it's worth, I used used a washer on the front mount screw to try and even the pressure out over a larger area, and I tend to go on the side of overkill. That said, I do agree that the Quinn could use the post setup like the tanfog mounts, it just seems to make so much more sense. Sad to hear that you have to do it all again. Maybe it'd be worth mounting to the 4 holes in the frame, no thumbrest, and then once its dead on, move the mount back with 3 screws - check, minor adjust and once final adjust replace that rear screw for the thumb rest one. Food for thought? Jase

BB: No mate, the tanfog cmore screws were too small. I have a large assortment of screws and just went and grabbed 2 that fit it. They are cap head screws and are a tight fit in the cmore, which means I don't need loctite as the cmore basically holds the screws tight (Yes they are loctite'd anyway). How much are the cheelys going to come in at? I might be interested if they aren't too expensive. On another note, does anyone know if those Limcat cmore knobs are available? I know the arredondos are out there, but those limcar units are just hot as!

Jade, check again; I don't think you are seeing any slide mounted optics there.

Well in that case I guess some details are in order: Tanfoglio Limited Custom HC with comp barrel conversion. Quinn 3 CMore mount. Currently has all the stock running gear in it. The previous owner thinned the grips down for easier access to the mag release, which I don't actually mind, he did it well. CMore hood cover is on the way. Tanfog thumbrest and new grips should turn up in the next day or so. Here ya go. And if anyone is interested in seeing a quick little clip of it running have a look here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtUfSSI36uU I have plenty of other vids on my channel, but they are all with my SP01 Shadow. I'll get some match footage next weekend if anyone wants to keep any eye out for it.

Here is my new baby. I had the same issue with my Quinn mount BeerBaron. Thumbrest is just way too far forwards so I've got a tanfog one on order. It did occur to me that the whole thing could be bought backwards on the gun to be closer to the Cheely. Just didn't think drilling and tapping more holes in to the frame was something I wanted to do just yet. It's still on the cards though, as the closer to the back of the gun the sight is, the less movement you'll get in it. If I did go that route, would I be able to get 2 additional holes rearward of the stock 4 holes? Is there enough room/meat and nothing in the way internally?

Yep you are correct 10 round mag limit in all divisions, all handguns. The mag bases won't increase the limit of our mags though, because all the Aussie mags have dimples in them that stop the followers going down further than 10 rounds.

I have done everything I can to try and find these things here down under and it just doesn't seem like they exist. The listed importer has told me they are impossible to get here. I did contact F & K Sport Sweden and they advised that they could ship to Australia though it wouldn't be cheap, but they don't list the new 2012 versions, just the older ones with the screw. Surely someone can help me out. There has to be someone that knows where I might be able to get these things without having to give my first born child as payment.

Guys, I've just bought myself a barely used Limited Custom HC that has a comp'ed barrel installed on it. It also came with the standard barrel. In doing the load testing I realised that the recoil spring that was installed in the gun was shorter than the others that were sent with the rest of the gear. it felt too light, so I went to install one other other ones which is when I realised the length difference. Is anyone able to tell me the length of the recoil spring that should be used on the comp'ed barrel? I'm shooting about 168PF. I have a 12lb and 14lb spring there I can use. I'm not sure what weight the spring is that I was using today but it felt much better. There wasn't any binding, feeding was all good, extraction and ejection was positive and consistent; so I get the feeling the correct length spring is in there now. Would be great to hear other peoples spring setups too. Jase

I like the looks of the comp hammer better. Also it gives a little more area to grab for dropping the hammer if using the pinch method (production start) at the start of the CoF. My Shadow isn't the line model, and had the round top hammer as seen in this pic: I can't speak of the differences between your hammer and the comp hammer. A caliper comparison of the comp and stock hammer (mine at least) had the sear hooks in a very slightly different position. Honestly though the only thing I noticed was a slightly shorter reset but we are talking mm here. Looking at the shape of the shadow line hammer, I know I'd be changing it for the competition hammer. I'm using the extended firing pin with the stock FP spring, no issues at all. Dawson fibre sight, .150" Tall, .100" Wide. Part number 019-122 - This matches perfectly with the stock sight height and hasn't changed point of impact at all. If you look at all other sights you'll see a different measurement; Dawson measure from the top of the sight to the top of the slide. Most others measure top of the sight to the bottom of the sight, which includes the dovetail portion. Do the easy upgrades first mate, springs, guide rod; upgrade your sight (or get a smith if you aren't 100% confident) and shoot it like that for a while. You might find that it shoots perfectly for you, if not you can always invest in the comp hammer. Also, without wanting to open a can of worms... I am using frog lube (the liquid not the paste) and have found it absolutely brilliant. Haven't had any problems what so ever with it, and everything is so easy to clean. Prior to that I was using BE's standard weight slide glide, also an outstanding product. It goes without saying but advice is only based on someones experiences. If you are buying springs, get a few different weights to have a play with. Even if you go straight for the one you planned they are so cheap and you'll have spares in case you ever need them. Jase

I'd suggest you refer to the IPSC rule book with regards to polishing. Specifically Appendix D 16.1. Don't go polishing your parts. I shoot a CZ75 SP-01 Shadow with the following changes (approx 8000 rounds to date): 13lb Main Spring 11lb Recoil Spring Stainless guiderod CZ Comp hammer Dawson front sight - This is a must. Extended firing pin Extra power extractor spring Silicon carbide coated grips It shoots like a kitten and the reset is shorter than some SA gun's I've used. The only other change that has been made to mine is on the underside of the slide, just knocking off the hard edge at the bottom of the breech face because it was causing huge feeding issues. Aside of that, I've never had one problem with the gun. Never a fail to extract/eject, and only once a fail to fire (because I somehow missed loading a primer into that case). I load all my own ammo and use a Lee Factory Crimp die, so I don't bother chamber checking my ammo. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your CZ! Jase Edit: Ass up numbers, Thanks BeerBaron

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CZ-75-85-SP-01-Ultra-Low-Profile-CNC-Aluminum-Grips-Set-BLACK-/271447916292?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3f338e7f04 They were pretty much the same as these. Cheap knock offs but I paid only about $60 US for them last year. The guy I bought them off isn't listing them at the moment.

It's probably worth just noting again that we have quoted both USPSA and IPSC rules here. For the IPSC punters reading this, make sure you understand the limitations that exist in the IPSC rulebook before you go all out customising your grips. Glad we could bring clarity to all. To the OP, let us know when you end up with, always good to have feedback on these kind of items.

I didn't say you could fully customize the grips. What I said was what you could scallop out the thumb groove the Al grips before applying the silicon carbide to match the profile of the original rubber grips. I'm not talking about building or fully customizing the grips, simply making the Al ones more accurately replicate the form of the original grips. You'll notice that the grips in that image are not built up in any way. The epoxy and sil carbide creates an approx 1mm layer of "grip", and the material I removed from the Al grip panels, was to compensate for that. If you were to model the rubber grips and mill a set of duplicates out of Al (minus 1mm), and apply the Sil carbide, that would pass (according to the IPSC 2012 rule book). Whether the range master would pass them without querying them is a different issue.

Any news about a mount for a CZ75 SP-01 Shadow? This would be perfect for a division hope from production to open, just need to get the comp sorted.

Yep. Appendix D4 of IPSC Rulebook 2012. section 17.3: 17.3 Aftermarket grip panels which match the profile and contours of the OFM standard or optional grip panels for the approved handgun and/or the application of tape on grips (see Appendix E3) are permitted.However, rubber sleeves are prohibited. These are treated as aftermarket grip panels. No different to VZ grips. Also, this gun has passed inspection at Level III match.

I liked the shape of the aluminium grips, but like you I found they lacked traction. I milled these cheap ebay Al grips down and used epoxy to cover them with silicon carbide. It's cheap and easy and provides a lot of grip. You could shape some Al grips with a file to give you that thumb groove that the rubber grips have before coating. For what it's worth, I cleared this with Vince Pinto in regards to being production legal for IPSC. For off the shelf I think the aggressive Al grips from CZ or any of the VZ are a great option.

There is a texas star at Hume PC. A mate and I ran it the other weekend, just because it was on our shooting bucket list. Awesome fun to shoot.