CSEMARTIN
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Posts posted by CSEMARTIN
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Are there any dangers to using the brass tip?
I just sent a PM to dillon (on the forum). When I hear something, I'll post it up here.
Maybe this is the fix to all of our problems?
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I talked to Dillon again today, and we think it's the tip. I switch it out again until I find one that will work.
I like the idea of using a brass tip. In fact, I just called Dillon when I read jmorris' post. At first, there was a lot or resistance from the gentleman I spoke with. I told him I was having all kinds of trouble with the plastics ones and asked about the brass tip that's used in the 650. He said they have looked into it in the past and Dillon decided not to do it. I pressed the issue and couldn't get him to give me a reason why. All he said is that if there was a primer detonation, they wouldn't warranty the machine. I asked if there was ever a primer detonation caused by the brass tip, and he told me that he had never heard of that happening because he didn't know of anyone using the brass tip. So....I ordered one. They're ten bucks.
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The thing that's really bugging me is that red plastic tip on the primer magazine tube. I've got one on my 550 that I don't think I've ever had to change in 12 years. When I spoke with Dillon, he asked me how many rounds I had through my 1050. Sadly, I've only loaded 3K rounds or so on the 1050 (I use the 550 mostly). He told me that 3K rounds was enough to wear out one of those tips. Huh??? If that is true, why wouldn't I need to replace them more often on my other presses? Do the 1050's eat them up? Should I go by a box of them and change them as part of my routine? It seems kind of hoaky to me.
I've always been able to figure out these Dillon presses with minimal effort. This one has me a little stumped right now.
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I've got a 1050 that has been a great source of pride for me until yesterday. I spent 5 hours loading 300 rounds because I was continually fixing problems to keep the machine running. I was on the phone multiple times with Dillon and got everything running smooth again.
Then today, I loaded 400 rounds and noticed WST powder all over the place. The machine decided it didn't want to prime my brass anymore. The shellplate got all gummed up making it very difficult to cycle the machine. So I loosened the shellplate enough to clean under it and put it back together. Then I pulled the priming system apart, collected all the primers and put that back together too. I cleared out the machine and watched just the priming station. It wasn't consistently picking up primers, and it seemed to do this only when there were only one or two primers left in the tube. One time, the primer was lodged in the red plastic tip sideways.
So now I decide to call Dillon again and they suggest I switch tips on the primer feed tube. I do that, load a few primers and watch it. Everything is going just fine until there is just one primer left and the primer slide assembly will not pick up that primer. I took the primer magazine tube out and the last primer was sitting perfectly in the red tip at the end of the primer magazine tube.
Any ideas how to fix it? The guy at Dillon also said the primers are being manufactured with less quality control due to high demand. Have you guys noticed a decline in primer quality? I haven't had any issues with my 550 so I'm not sure what he was talking about.
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I hope this show attracts new shooters.
I hope nobody on the show shoots themself.
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I don't think I've ever met anyone that wouldn't put the cigarette/cigar/pipe out if you explained to him/her that it bothers you and asked nicely.
I don't see the issue.
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Anyone got any other suggestions?
Dupont makes a mattress similar to the tempur pedic, but it is made out of latex. Temperature wise it is very cool.
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Jason,
If you are a visual learner like I am, I'd suggest getting the AGI series mentioned above:
Also, the Wilson Combat 4 volume set was very helpful:
Part # 965-000-040 on brownells.com
The Kuhnhausen manuals (vol.1 and 2) are great resources.
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This one?
Do you have space issues?
If you have room, I'd spend 60 bucks on 2X4's and MDF and make something.....then bolt it into the wall.
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I have heard great things from you guys about the Com-Tac product so I ordered a holster and mag pouches. It took them two days to make everything and get it sent. And they kept me updated with e-mails throughout the entire process.
I got everything today, and it's really NICE stuff.
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Stay clear of the Performance Center 625.
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It is an awesome match.
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Andy, you might want to get out of the habit of sweeping yourself when you are unloading your gun. Maybe it's the angle of the video, but it looks like the muzzle was pointed directly at your pinkly finger at 0:02 and your pinky and ring finger at 0:03.
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Back around '96, I was into Schutzhund training ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schutzhund ). I was working with Harley Macomb in Pana, Illinois, and one of his protection dogs, a Black Russian Terrier named Edsel. We were doing a house clearing exercise with me alone inside the house wearing a jute bite sleeve under a sweatshirt. The dog did exactly what he was supposed to do. He found me, I stood perfectly still and he sat at my feet, looked up at me and starting to bark. As long as you remained still, the dog just keeps barking. As soon as you make any movement, the dog nails you. I swept my arm up to my chest and Edsel clamped down on my forearm. The jute sleeve I was wearing was not reinforced so I could feel the pressure of his bite, but no teeth. The "oh shit" moment occurred when Edsel started working his bite down towards my unprotected hand. After feeling the pressure of his bite, I was horrified at the thought of what that would feel like to have his teeth sink into my bare hand. I yelled out to Harley to call him off, and the dog let go.
I'd had some close calls in the past, but this time was particularly freaky because I really got the feeling that dog wanted to draw blood. I haven't worked a dog since.
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When I was 16, I bought several quarter sticks of dynamite from a fireworks vendor whose moral compass was a little off.
I lit one when I got home and it fell, lit, into the bag with the rest of them. It scared the hell out of me.
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Thanks Dan. I guess I should have read the directions. I figured I goofed something up when I stumbled across this thread. I've got another one for my backup gun. I'll try to do that one right and see how I like it.
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I think you should go for it.
The Wilson Combat videos do a good job of walking you through a bevertail fitting. Just go slow.
For the sights, a dovetail file would be helpful. File the sights and not the slide. If you goof, a new sight is a lot easier to remedy than the slide.
Good luck.
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Doug is a top notch guy. And so is his product.
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Wish I could make it.
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Is this the part you are talking about? I outlined it in red. It was hitting my trigger bar and preventing me from pulling the trigger. I thought something was wrong with the ghost rocket and cut this "tab" off. It works great now.
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Taken from Dick Metcalf's article in ShootingTimes May '07..Handloading the 9mm for Accuracy
"When loading any handgun cartridge, you should always use carbide dies (if available). Steel dies won't really save you any money because if you load in any volume (say for competition practice) the cost of case lube will soon eat up the price difference. Having said that, we recommend you lube 9mm cases anyway, even brand-new cases. You only need to lube one case out of every five or 10. (More than that will quickly accumulate excess lube in the small 9mm die chambers and can lead to case dimpling problems.)
Of course, carbide dies are advertised as not needing to be lubed. But small, tapered auto pistol cases, like the 9mm in particular, when brand-new or dry, can gall the carbide and leave brass deposits that will eventually adversely affect the sizing or even pressure-scratch the carbide insert. The best choice of lube for carbide dies is an aerosol type that goes on wet but dries before being used in the die. Wet or greasy conventional lubes are unnecessary and messy. If you handload the 9mm using carbide dies with a one-in-five-case aerosol lube that is dry going in, loading will be quicker, cleaner, and easier."
"Always clean your cases. Dirty cases eventually ruin any die set, steel or carbide, and the smaller the case you're loading, the quicker this will happen."
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I went through a whole can of Hornady One-Shot today, prepping .223 brass, there it IS necessary.
I just don't see the benefit on straight walled short pistol cases. My brass lasts longer than I care to shoot it, I don't get stuck cases, my dies have not worn out. I've measured cases before and after sizing with and without lube and measure no difference. Not saying it hurts, sure it helps, but it is NOT necessary. I've not had a squib, but several of the guys that lube their pistol brass have had squibs or very low power rounds. I don't trim pistol brass either.
What does case lube have to do with squib rounds? I followed your logic up until you made that comment.
Without case lube, a lot more stress is put on part #13409. A friend of mine was without his machine while Dillon repaired it free of charge. But at $7.95 per can, what is the issue man?
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A guard rail, a paramedic, fire station, level I trauma center, and the chief of surgery. You are probably the luckiest guy on this forum. It sounds to me like you had three life-threatening injuries at the same time. And you were at risk of losing your leg too. Yikes.
Sounds like they took your spleen. Make sure you get your vaccines. Good luck Joe D.
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PM sent to original poster.
Dillon 1050
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Cool....please let us know.