Mastiff

Now there's a purchase I could justify under any circumstances to me or, uh, my wife. "Ain't that bowl with that ground up stuff up enof". Well, no, it doesn't clean up the primer pockets up like a tumbler does, this is needed for additional polishing". You do need that wet tumbler. Congrats on a smart purchase. Just make sure those steel pins are not stuck in the flash holes when you get them all finished and purrty. Dog

I think we're all a little guilty of "collecting" reloading stuff from time to time. But it would be interesting to hear what your bench and storage is or wants to become. I think there are those that almost want to own their own reloading store to just a guy who's happy to have a single stage press putting out 100-200 9mm. Are you the guy who has to have every tool in the blue (or green too) catalog? Every powder and every die set ever made, or anything in between? In a couple cases, I'm guilty of buying the dies before I own the firearm. So, let's here your story.... Dog

This sir qualifies as a HG of breakage. You're lucky you didn't get injured. Sounds like a bad casting. Maybe air got in the mold? I know enough about castings to be dangerous, but does that sound like the cause? Dog

We're deep in to winter and the holidays. I thought it would be time to bring back the thread to see if we have some new contributors. In another thread, I admitted to grinding down my trim die with my 1200 carbide cutter. It earns a stupidity award, and really belongs in this thread. After the hot summer, surely somewhere there is a BE forum junky that would be willing to share their mechanical breakdown or destruction. We all stand to learn something. Don't be shy. Dog

Usually those are the folks coming here asking why the center bolt keeps backing out. Or they (like me) can end up in the Holy Grail of destruction thread

While not a catastrophic failure, I have never seen the spring break there ever before. New spring, easy fix. Problem is without the spring, and you want to hang out at the bench, you can always start rifle brass processing. That's always my back up plan when the Dillon goes down. I suggest that everyone buys that 650 spare parts bag of gizmos, springs and little things. And you can order al a carte but that's always expensive. I've found that when that little spring, screw, washer, etc. drop on the floor you'll never find it. Have some spares handy. Dog

I called Dillon years ago frustrated over the ring thing. They told me it wouldn't hurt anything. Dillon, I think you are the best in the game, but there's gotta be away to eliminate the ring. Different shaped seating inserts? I don't know. OAL and bullet seating is often a thing that comes with a ring. Dog

I use Sierra Match King #1400 bullets when loading .223. I had the dreaded ring indented on my beautiful bullets from the Dillon seating die. No one has brought that issue up in the thread, but nonetheless, I prefer the Redding comp seating die. Dog

This looks nice, check out this demo: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AUqAhjkUkGI Dog

Dupe, sorry Dog

Using the swage gizmo in lieu of the priming seater is interesting. Think about it, and I wonder if Dillon will warranty it. Dillion's is designed to press up a primer in the pocket and the swage gizmo is opening up the pocket for the primer. I could be wrong, but I think the upward pressure of a primer is less than the swage button. The primer is press fit with a ram that is about the same diameter as the primer itself, so the pressure is spread out evenly. With swage, I don't know. The swage gizmo sounds like a time saver, but does Dillon think the shell plate is taking on too much upward pressure? Dillon where are you on this gizmo? Dog

Ok Dillon I'll take the bait on this, but go ahead and take all the shots you want, it's okay, you were good enough to replace it for me at no charge. That's class. Dog

I use the Redding seating die with the micrometer adjustment and I can hold +/- .001. Also the temperature changes in your work room can impact tolerance variations. The micrometer is expensive. Note that Dillon offers them in the blue press, and there is a reason for that. Best dies I've ever used. Just about every calibre I load in pistol I use their competition die sets. Their pistol sets are designed to work well on Dillon progressive presses. You may want to buy some a set for the Holidays!Dog

Maybe you should fold them up and put them in an envelope with "Free Beer coupons inside" printed on the outside. That might get a cover to cover read before starting. Darn, then I'd have to read about how to use the media separator and the bullet puller too.

I did that, and hadn't even redeemed a nary beer coupon. But how much contact to the case mouth should there be? Just touching it, a little tighter? In other words, how do you achieve 1.75 consistently. It is still possible to hit the die with the blade even with a case in the die because how far is too far to screw the motor down. You guys have sold thousands of these things and users boast of "getting 1.75 on every pull". Sorry, I am have a tough time believing that. Maybe I don't get. Give me a +/- tolerance and I'm sold. And I'll happily turn over all beer coupons over to you if you'll reveal the secret. Even if you don't, I'll give you the coupons anyway, for all of the parts I broke myself that you replaced over the years, they'll never be enough beer coupons. Dog

I clean and polish my brass with a Lortone tumbler. The problem I have is when two pins get stuck in the flashhole in the .223. What do you do, some are stubborn. I use a small Allen wrench to push them out. Any better ideas? Dog

My Cabelas has powder right off the shelf, like there was some H335 there and some others. If you live nearby one, check it out. Dog

How sad. After 16 years of living happily with my XL650, and most of the toys to go with it, I had the 1200 on my bucket list. So it was time to pop for $300 which included the trim die. So today's session was all about trimming. I set aside my trusty old Wilson trimmer, which included the micrometer. She always gave me a dead nuts trim every time - 1.750. So you have to learn to like cranking it. And then keep cranking for hours. So I was spoiled, I was proud that I could hold the tolerance. My arthritis hated me for it. I set it aside (at least for the moment) and the 1200 moved in. So here I am schlepping this heavy torquey electric motor and counter intuitively mounting this thing on top of a tool head that's held by two pins. Seemed top heavy to me. Then, not only are we going let this elephant of a motor trim thin and soft brass, we're going to size it too, all at the same time. So now that trim die requires the same installation attention of a sizing die. The 1200 is a game changer, because it's use spawns too many questions that really have no one answer. What I think is an interesting read on this and other forums is the order in which everyone describes how they use this bad boy. Some say they use the full length die first and decap. That way you'll do the inside of the neck because the the Dillon trim die doesn't. Or some say they use the small base die at the end, or some say to use the full size die turned up just to get the benefit of a decap and the neck ball and it keeps going. I like the "balance theory" - keep the motor in station four to keep it balanced with station 1. My point is there are a lot of variables when you deploy the 1200. For me, that means when things start going bad, it goes real bad. There's so much going on, I mean, look at the dynamics in order to get a consistent 1.75. Like the planets and the stars have to align. Long story short, I didn't shatter the blade. Instead, I counterbored trim die. It was like a fireworks show. Like the man from Dillon said, it all trial and error. He even said he's heard of guys size that brass three times before it ever sees the 1200. I say we add another station to the tool head, maybe that would solve the guessing game.

I guess I'd use em. If you're running them thru an AR, I don't think its a big deal, especially if you're crimping. Are you using boatails or flat bottom bullets? Someone could say to load them up and put them in the vibe bowl for awhile, and that may help. But there are two schools of thought on throwing live ammo in the vibe bowl. One says it's okay, the other says no. Dog

Exactly right. Note: "QC is a major part of reloading". There should be an entire section on quality control. Dog

Ok, I took the bait - too funny ....

Dillon should increase the price of the machine for an amount between the cost of the two handles. The one they provide is virtually worthless. I'd guess most become one of those useless items that you just can't get up enough courage to trash. Surely the cost increase on the machine would be very little. The stock handle is a waste of material, plastic, time and shipping costs. Ok, some of you have found some esoteric use for the thing and that's great. For me, I threw mine away. That's the way I handled it. Dog

Try a Lee decapping die. They cost around $12. I have every brand of decapping dies/pins known to mankind. All are more expensive and don't come close to the strength of the Lee. Remember, regardless of the decaper you choose, having it adjusted correctly helps to prevent bent or broken pins. Dog

The math speaks for itself. He's got three out of four of the boring and tedious stuff done. And he's taken the entire priming mousetrap out of the equation. Now, run those cases over to a Lyman case prep center (or some similar all in one electric set up) to do the deburr on i.d. and o.d., on the necks, clean the pockets and swage (if you buy brass that needs it) and you'll have a real winner. Although I'm a big fan on keeping my Dillon machines OEM and hate these kinds of modifications, but with the metrics you've achieved, I'm impressed (not that it matters). This is one modification I think would be easy for Dillon. Just remove the two screws that hold the whole primer contraption and design a blank or cover. Sometimes, especially with rifle brass, you just want to do all of the prep before priming, charging, seating and crimping the bullets. Properly prepared rifle brass run on an XL650 makes the reloading session seem like you're knocking out 9mm. Just dump all of that ready to go brass in the case feeder, down they drop into station 1 that isn't going to care (but I'd still lube my cases lightly), and the other stations will take care of themselves. For me, I don't crimp .223, so I just prime, charge and seat. Think about it, there's no law that says you have to go from womb to tomb on your progressive. Dog

That set screw begs the operator be gentle, as most screws on Dillion's components do. I learned early that certain things didn't require 100% disassembly to be adjusted. Some tend to over tighten every screw on the machine. Over the years Dillon has replaced many stripped parts for me at no charge, even when taking full responsibility for my stupidity. But you learn. And Dillon thankfully makes these lessons as inexpensive as possible. The OP didn't have a shot because he removed the screw. Sometimes I look at a screw and think it must be removed, but this is one that must or at least should stay put. Okay, the horse is out of the barn and the screw is removed. I'd bet there was bad lighting and he fought the angle of approach to the hole. The thread in the ram is stripped or goobered up, at least it looks that way. I can't fault him for pulling the set screw all of the way out, he just may have not known. If the ram is scarred, I'd get a new one and not play with it. I'd buy my self a long t-handle Allen wrench. It only takes a turn or so of the screw to loosen up the shell plate bolt - leave the screw in. And no need to bear down on it when tightening her back up, remember its purpose. Take two aspirin and call Dillon in the morning. This qualifies for a Holy Grail award, this was a twofer. Been a few of them today. When things don't go well on certain sessions, I move over to my single stage, throw in a decapping die, grab a bunch of 223 and knock out some spent primers. I figure I can't get into too much trouble, unless of course I bend a decapping pin. And that's not such a bad thing, especially when you're using the inexpensive a Lee die, heck I think they're $10-12 bucks. Dog