nhglyn
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Posts posted by nhglyn
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Just bought a new Mark IV 22/45 Lite pistol for me and to teach my 11 year old grandson how to handle and shoot a firearm. Great gun but the slide latch is hard to push down, especially for an 11 year old. With the bolt locked back and a mag inserted it takes quite a bit of effort to release the slide latch. Is this sort of normal for this handgun? Will it "break in" and smooth out with use? Can you polish surfaces to make it release easier? Any information and tips appreciated.
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Does anyone make rubber grip panels for this handgun? No finger grooves and no oversize as it is for 11 year old grandson. Thanks for any tips.
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I bought a used handgun with this red dot optic on it. Can someone please identify for me? Do you have company's contact information? Thanks for the help.
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I have a Dillon 560 and have been reloading for 25+ years. Loading 9mm rounds and I am getting a number that have a bulge that circles the case where the bottom of the bullet sits. This has caused a couple of jams that lock up the slide in bullets that I didn't bother to chamber check.Ran a bunch of non chamber checked rounds in practice and had the slide lock up a couple of times, and it was a bitch to rack it to extract the unfired round. Had this ridge around them.Zoom in on the picture and let me know if you have any ideas on why this is happening and how to get rid of it. Probably happens 4-5 times per hundred. I have double checked the dies and they all seem to be adjusted properly. Using Montana Gold 347 gr CMJ that measure .355. OAL is 1.150. Crimp .377. Once fired mixed headstamp brass with all military primed brass removed before reloading.Too lazy to pull the bullets so end up tossing them. I am now chamber checking all rounds and tossing these bad ones.So, why am I getting this? And, how to fix? Any ideas appreciated.
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5 minutes ago, Sarge said:
Those are excellent pictures of military crimped primer pockets. You can trash them or get a pocket reamer
Thanks, sort of what I figured. Do you know why the military does this? Why different than "store bought"?
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I bought a large batch of 9mm range brass and have found a number with the headstamps in the photos. They decap but the primer hole is slightly small will not accept a new primer and I end up throwing them away. Can anyone identify for me? Why primer hole too small? Reloading on Dillon 550C so no swaging station. Thanks.
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I will be starting to load 9mm with Montana Gold 147 gr flat point bullets. For those using this combination, what do you use as an OAL? Same as round rose bullets? Shooting out of Springfield XDM 5.25.
Many thanks.
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Just bought a nice (slightly used) SW22 Victory to plink with and teach my grandson how to shoot with. It shoots really well, I like it a lot.
Just 2 questions:
1. Why is it so very hard to rack the slide? He (12 years old) could not do it and it is reasonable hard for me to. Anyone know why and is there a fix?
2. With the slide stop engaged why is it even harder to push down on slide stop to disengage it? Is there a fix?
Has anyone had similar issues? Thanks for any help.
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Starting to load for my 5.25 9mm XDM that I will shoot in Carry Optics. Would like to use Montana Gold 9mm 147 gr. bullets. Has anyone used these? Any feeding issues? They have flat nose rather than round and I just wanted to know if anyone has had any feeding issues due to the shape. Any Titegroup loads you want to share?
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deano2246,
Thanks so much for the offer. At this point, I have made arrangements with another person.
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Over my years of shooting 38 Super I have accumulated quite a few cases (500+) that have a rim of brass above the casehead that keeps them from case gauging when they are loaded. Some have been reloaded more than once. I have been told that a Case Pro 100 is the only way to make this brass usable again so it can be loaded and will actually chamber reliably.
Is there anyone out there who has a Case Pro 100, with 38 Super dies, that would like to make some extra money and run my brass through your machine? Glad to pay you for your time and would also be very grateful, I just cannot afford a new one at $800 plus. Again, it is 38 Super brass, not Super Comp.
If willing, please PM me. Many thanks.
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Mods, please delete post.
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I have 1000+ cases, with live primers, that I pulled the bullets from. They are dirty and I would like to clean the cases a bit before reloading them. One of my best friends cautioned me about using my usual corncob media as a piece might get stuck in the flash hole and prevent ignition.
Is there something else I can get locally that I can tumble these cases with to clean them up a bit but not worry about pieces getting stuck in the hole?
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I have cleaned everything as mentioned. The roller assembly does go all the way forward to the end of the channel and the case still does not quite go all the way into the shellplate. The "handymans fix" that would solve the problem would be to put a layer or two of duct tape on the front of the plunger. That would give an additional couple of mm's of push to the case. But.......should I really have to do that?
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Yep, I bought one of the very first ones that came out in Feb. 2006.
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I have had the optional casefeeder attached to my 550B since they first came out. I am now having a minor issue and would like ideas or suggestions before I call Dillon on Monday. The plunger is not pushing the case far enough into the shellplate so that, now, the sizing die bumps onto the top edge of the case. It does not happen all the time, but more than in the past so something has changed over the years.
The roller bearing goes as far forward in the slot as possible but the case is just not getting shoved all the way into the shellplate slot. Note that the cam is pulled back all the way so the roller bearing has freedom to move as far forward in the slot as possible.
I am a little puzzled, any ideas? Could the front of the plunger itself be worn just enough so that it does not have the length it used to have, therefore it is unable (at full extension) to push the case as far as it used to? I can not picture how this kind of wear might occur but looking for possibilities.
I thought about stretching the spring but , with the roller bearing already as far forward as possible, this would have no effect other than pushing it to the same position harder.
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For those out there in BE land who own a Kimber Target II in 38 Super:
1. What length do you load your ammo to?
2. Do you use, or advise to use, a recoil buffer in the gun or does that negatively affect reliability? When new, do these guns come with a recoil buffer as part of original production?
Thanks.
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Final result:
Start- 4 lbs 15 ozs
Finish- 2 lbs 6 ozs
What a nice difference.
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I have purchased a Kimber Target II in 38 Super. Trigger pull is in the 4.5-5 lb range, from what I read pretty typical.
I want to know if you can safely lessen the trigger pull by bending the left hand leaf of the sear spring upward a little. My Open gun is a 1.75 lb pull and I would like to have the Kimber break in the 3 lb range. I have done this many times before on my Open guns.... are things the same for this 1911?
Suggestions? Warnings? Information? All appreciated.
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Haven't browsed here for a while but need to buy some Winchester Autocomp powder asap. Yes. I am sure many others do too. Just wondering if anyone knew who might have 2- 8 lb jugs in stock. I have tried all the usual places and they are all out of stock.
Any hints appreciated. Thanks.
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Do we have results?
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Stage 3 from today's match.
You can compare the speed of the shooters of different skill levels
)Why does it say "This video is private" when I try to watch it? I am signed in to BE, Google, and YouTube.
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Has anyone built a 38 Super major load for N105 or 4756 using 115 JHP's out of a gun similar to a Brazos Pro Sx? What sort of load did you get and what were the chrono readings?
Or, is there a better powder that will make major, shoot well in 38 Super and, if there is, what loads should I try?
Thanks so much for the help.
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Background...... Open division shooter who has used 125 gr jhp's with either IMR4756 or VV N105 for the last 6 years. Have owned Brazos ProSx and Bedell Custom but am now waiting on delivery of an Akai Katana, also in 38 Super and would like to see if there is a better combination for my new gun.
Question.... can I get some feedback on the merits, or disadvantages, of using 115 gr jhp's instead of the 125 jhp's I have been using. Will still be using the same 4756 or N105 as I have quite a lot on hand.
Differences? Pluses/minuses? Anyone happen to have a Katana that has experimented with these combinations? I have spoken to Shay and gotten his feedback but would like to tap into the vast pool of knowledge/experience here at BE.
Many thanks for the help.
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Mark IV 22/45 Slide Latch
in Ruger
Posted · Edited by nhglyn
Just bought a new Ruger Mark IV 22/45 Lite pistol (22 LR) for me and to teach my 11 year old grandson how to handle and shoot a firearm. Great gun but the slide latch is hard to push down, especially for an 11 year old. With the bolt locked back and a mag inserted it takes quite a bit of effort to release the slide latch. Is this sort of normal for this handgun? Will it "break in" and smooth out with use? Can you polish surfaces to make it release easier? Any information and tips appreciated.