creeper1956

Arguably, I think most use Nordic, followed by DMW, Surecycle and Briley on their M2s. In most cases, we don't worry too much about how much the tube extends past the muzzle... in fact, I think there are some that think it looks cool. Besides, if you end up with an extended choke at some point, your matching length idea goes out the window. Remember that Nordic sells 3 (the last time I looked) different lengths of end cap... so there's another length/capacity adjustment. Here's the old version of Nordic tube lenth reference. It can be helpful sometimes. C

Assuming you have the slide secured in a solid vise, removal should always be left to right, and installation right to left. If that doesn't help, then take it to a 'smith... it will still probably be cheaper than a good sight pusher.

Are you going to do the work yourself? If so, I and many others can walk you through it. If not, even though EGW parts are some of the best and most consistant there are and all that I personally use... the gunsmith you hire may have his own personal preferrences and may even have tooling and equipment set up for specific ignition parts. Talk to the 'smith first. I know I charge extra when a client wants me to use components I don't normally use... I call it the "you know better than me" fee. C

You can use any Benelli, but the M3 is a semi-auto/pump inertia and the M4 is a gas operated combat shotgun with a 18.5" barrel... so not the best option for 3-gun. The M2 Tactical with 18.5" barrel... again, not your best choice, but these can frequently be found at a 3-gun match because folks are thinking that it's a good idea to have a combo HD/3-gun - gun. I've done it, and I get that logic. The Vinci and SS... not so much, although I've seen 1 or 2... and I think that's more some folks trying out 3-gun for the first time with their bird guns. Read some threads on these forums and 3-gun dedicated sites. Decide what barrel length is for you... 21"-26" with 24" and 26" being pretty popular. Maybe go to some matches and see if you can touchy feely some competitors guns. Buy an M2 Field with that barrel length. Get yourself a Nordic tube... and you're off to the races! After you've shot the gun for awhile, you can start looking at mods and other accesories you think would be a good thing for you. That's about it. C

Briley makes one, but with assorted colors of smooth aluminum handles. The handles are threaded on to the steel shaft, so one could easily have it knurled at a machine shop... or make your own oversize threaded handle. GG&G is suppose to be making one similar to the big one for the 1100... give 'em a shout and see where they're at. There is also a gent here that did a fairly well detailed overview of the mods he made to his 3-gun VM. One of those mods includes fitting a charging handle for a Nordic Benelli M1/2 to the gun... but he didn't discribe exactly how he did it. Scroll down to post 39 to see it. C

I can't explalin the birdshot yes and the buckshot no, but if you cut the mag spring too short, there may not be enough spring pressure to feed shells from the magazine. Just a theory, but the mag spring may be sufficent to keep up with the lower power shells, but not enough to keep pace with the full power loads. The mag spring should have, and this point is certainly an arguable one, about 13" or better of free length past the mag tube with the mag end cap removed. C

Interesting. I was reading a review and watching some video of the $2400 and up, SRM 1216 multi-tube, detachable magazine shotgun. It's got some features I like, but for a large capacity, detachable magazine shotgun, I just don't see it as being "better" for any use, let alone 3-gun competition. Have you spent any time reviewing the SRM and, as a MKA 1919 owner, do you have an opinion you'd care to share? C

I've determined for my needs that "placing your stock in the crook of your elbow" is completely useless. Have you read the article by Bill Hanus on LOP? He, and Phil Bourjaily both use the "eye to thumb knuckle" distance as the most relevant measurement... that being, a pretty broad IMO, 1" ~ 1.5". In either case, it requires a second party to take that measurement for you... it' seems that most knowledgeable sporting shotgunners use this, or a variation of this, method. I've tried it a few times, but I think that as I tend to take a more square (too square?) to the target stance, I find that my happy LOP ends up being a bit shorter for my height at 13" rather than the minimum 13.6" the above method suggests. Rudy Etchen said... “You should shoot the shortest stock you can shoot without getting your nose kicked, because the farther you are away from the gun, the more you have to steer it. The longer the gun is, the harder it is to point. If you're tied in close, not getting your nose kicked by the thumb on your trigger hand, the better you'll shoot.” In other words, if there's a hard and fast rule that works for one and all, I'd love to hear it. C

Like to hear about that. I'm still waiting for a response on why they no longer import '0' shot Baby Magnums in the US. C

There ya' go. If you're having fun, who cares how "game" your gun is? It's human nature to want to be competitive, but there's much to be said for "run what ya' brung" as well. Many years ago I was super competitive in Benchrest... to the tune of about $25K+ a year, and it all started with trying to get a Ruger #1V to shoot 1/4" groups. It's a slippery slope my friend. Although medical issues keep me from shooting as much as I'd like, with a few modifications, I still use a M2T. I eventually found a guy that wanted a PG stock for his M2 and we did a swap, but I still have the 18.5" and GR sights. The straight stock LOP is long for me, but I'll wait for Mesa Tactical to come out with their 12.75" Urbino straight stock rather than hack up the Benelli piece. Am I "competitive"? Hell no... but man, I sure do have fun! Cheers, C

What I'd do... and bear in mind that I'm a engineer by trade and a gunsmith by hobby... I'd buy the new stock gun, use it, install the parts you need, make the modifications you need... shoot it some more, make a few more tweaks etc etc. You get the idea. If you're not mechanical and the thought of doing any work yourself throws you into a hyperventilating tizzy... shell out for a ready to rock gun. Waiting for a used one to turn up... may take a day, may take a year... and you don't necessarily know if your getting something nice, or something that has been "road hard and put away wet". Cheers, C

You're probably thinking of the Dave's Metal Works "Speedbar". Cheers, C

Hello all... I'm new here, but this seems as good a place as any to jump in, 'cause I've been in Therealkoops shoes. I've never had a problem finding an M2 Field, models 11016, 11021, 11026, build platform. I go on-line with all that list them, regardless of the listings "in stock / availability", call the phone number (not an e-mail - gun retailers/distributors get tons of e-mails and ignore half of them) and talk to people until I find one that's physically in stock. Call your favorite FFL and have them order it up. Honest... if you want one (and you do), 11026 (21") or 11021 (24")... make a few phone calls. Cheers, C