Carmoney

Or Pachmayrs.

Thanks fellas! And BillD, I'm going to request that you post a comment in every thread from now on, due to your wise insight and excellent avatar.

You can have two states of residence. In fact, the instructions to Form 4473 say that a person who is a resident of more than one state should enter his current address on the Form. Here's the example they give: "If you are buying a firearm while staying at your weekend home in State X, you should list your address in State X in response to question 2." So acquiring a state ID in Virginia might be a perfectly viable solution to the problem of having chosen an ignorant and obstinate dealer.

Just to be certain, you might want to check www.bigbutts.com to see what they have.

Some of those gun dealers out there must not be capable of reading. (Perhaps that's not too surprising, from the looks of some of the dealers I see at gun shows!) I've held an FFL since 1993. I'm also an attorney. Under 18 USC 922, a licensee may transfer a rifle or shotgun to a person who is not a resident of the State where the licensee’s business premises is located in an over-the-counter transaction, provided the transaction complies with State law in the State where the licensee is located and in the State where the purchaser resides. Not handguns. Not frames or receivers. But long guns--no problem.

There are an awful lot of things about competition revolvers the factory still hasn't figured out. Anyway, Papaw, your cylinder is properly reamed and nicely chamfered. It went out on the UPS truck yesterday afternoon.

Josh, in Revolver Division if you're under 40 you're considered a youngster.

The funniest revolver-related OCD issue are those who think you can load a moonclip "upside down."

Yeah. Shouldn't be a problem on a long gun.

If you're asking for legal advice, Jon, I might need to collect a retainer from ya.

Wow, Sam........you said that so beautifully!!

Sounds like Cliff is getting ready to serve up some "shit sandwiches" down there.

You will not be competitive at the higher levels of USPSA unless you can reload on the fly. Back when I was learning the game, I practiced performing reloads in my yard (I live out in the country and can shoot here at my place) until I could accomplish the reload in the middle of a flat-out run. Remember, even when you're running, you have to use your eyes to "watch" the reload go into the gun. Use your peripheral vision to keep from falling down or running into stuff. The more you do it, the faster it will get.

Here's where to buy fiber-optic rod in bulk, dirt cheap: http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Archery.htm

I use mixed .45 ACP brass that I've collected over the last 23 years. I'm certain that somewhere in my pile is some of the original brass from the factory ammo I bought when I first started competitive shooting in 1987! As long as the chambers are correctly dimensioned (which can be a problem on 625-2s, some early 625-3s, and many 625-8s), S&W .45 ACP wheelguns are very forgiving when it comes to brass and moonclips. There should be no need for special brass. You might as well buy whatever is cheapest.

Joe, you'll just have to try them and see what you like. It's one of those personal preference things. I used the Ed Brown thumb latches for years (no longer made), and then a couple seasons ago switched to the Hogue release and never looked back. On the other hand, my son Sam (a solid revolver competitor in his own right) doesn't like anything other than the standard stock factory thumbpiece. It's purely a matter of taste.

I own two nice custom .40 1911s built on Caspian major components. One has a ramped Briley barrel, one has an unramped Kart barrel. Both guns run great with all my mags! In general, I think ramped barrels are a good idea.

Yes, but these days you will see the letters "GM" next to most of their names.

Points well taken. As a general rule, I just think it's very important to produce a respectable showing in Revo Division at the bigger matches, and that would have to include the various Area matches. But I have always heard great things about the SC Sectional, and understand the challenges of signing up for back-to-back travel weekends.

This concern, spread largely via the little old hens on the S&W Forum, is grossly exaggerated. If you're taking the strain screw in and out so often you wear out the screw, you might have an issue with OCD!

Yep, it will stay put right up until it comes loose!! Sorry, but I must respectfully disagree with Warren and the others who consider the strain screw an "adjustment screw." Particularly if you're shooting major power factor stuff, they can and do come loose! Several of you reading this post will recall times when your "loctited adjustment screws" came loose and caused clicks during major matches. (Don't worry, I don't plan to list names, but you know who you are!) I believe that once the spring tensions are correctly adjusted, the strain screw should be loctited, tightened down good and hard, and left the fug alone.

Guys, if you're serious about shooting the revolver in competition, you really need to shoot as many Area matches as possible, and particularly your own home Area Championship. With all you wheelgunners that live in the Southeast, I would expect to see 15-20 revolvers signed up for Area 6 already! What the heck is going on down there? USPSA Area matches and the USPSA Nationals are the big ones. Sign up and go.

Oooh, that would not be good idea. I'm just sayin'.....

I will add this, Dave: Once you have experienced a 10-shot 617, you will never bother with a 6-shot rimfire revolver again. Whether you pay for the conversion, or simply trade into a different gun altogether, it will be well worth the money!

Patrick may be right about the ultimate cost being cheaper to simply sell the 6-shot and buy a 10-shot. On the other hand, I have a friend who owns a 6-shot Model 17 he really likes, and in that case I view the conversion to be perfectly viable. The cylinder would need to be fit, a 10-shot hand would need to be installed, and the 10 ratchet lugs cut. Probably talking a couple hours of labor, plus the cost of the cylinder and hand. As to converting the original cylinder to .22 Mag, the actual rechambering would not be a problem (Clymer and Manson both make piloted .22 Mag finish reamers), but the rechambered cylinder would not be a drop-in prospect because of the different hand.