wanttolearn

so sorry to hear. some time locking fingers can be caused by other things like an inflammation of the tendons...for which there are surgical and non-surgical options. perhaps would be good to see a hand specialist. if it's non surgical then a rheumatologist.

thank you all....very grateful

Hoping for some suggestions/recommendations regarding more conical shaped projectiles that would yield nice tight groups on paper with the appropriate load...and importantly would load easily and with little effort using a speed loader and moon clips for a 686 plus revolver. For my semi-auto SW model 52 i use very flush inset 38 special HBWC projectiles.... but unfortunately they don't easily or rapidly chamber in my revolver when i use a speed loader. They will of course chamber but it's a slow and i have to wiggle them about a bit to get them to all fall in when loaded on a moon clips. thank you

thank you. looking into it

great to know..thank you. hadn't heard about using rice.

thank you

likely this has been discussed but it didn't seem to come up in a brief search. i have an old but trustworthy vibrating case cleaner. i need to purchase new cleaning media. I can't recall what type of media most favor....some i guess work better than others and some are less likely to fill up the primer hole. I'd sure appreciate your thoughts/recommendations. Thank you

thank you

would love to read the book when it comes out....please let us know

it looks like Armanov still sells a lot of upgrade parts for the Dillon 650xl including the primer stop

thank you, will take a look

pskys2, thank you. unfortunately no longer a member (physical disability). if you happened to still have a copy i'd sure love to read it.

great information...and thank you all for posting. For my purposes It would be optimal if the revolver would perform well, safely and reliably with both factory and hand loads. If it's too much of a compromise then it sounds like I should pick up .38 special reloading dies and Federal primers and begin reloading for this specific revolver. I have been reloading for long range rifle for many years now however, I have generally relied upon factory loads for my handguns.

thank you....i appreciate what you've penned

thank you for responding, i'll take a look at the link just now

AzShooter....i went to the Apex Tactical site and they list 2 hammers for the SW K,L frame models, the Mass Drive Hammer and the Evolution IV Hammer. In your experience is the former preferable to the latter?

thank you for that. I did just purchase and tried the Hogue K,N,L,X, Z frame round butt rubber grip to the revolver. While this larger grip certainly added bulk to the grip, something is still lacking for me. It is true that my trigger index finger is no longer impinging so significantly on my support hand fingers. That said the contour and support that i was hoping to experience remains lacking. Likely i'm used to, and rely upon, the beavertail feel of my semi-auto pistols and perhaps most significantly the locked in, secure feeling i depend upon when shooting semi-autos. In those latter formats i feel that my hands completely and securely envelop the grip to create a fixed unit of sorts. I just don't seem to find that happy locked in feeling with the revolver. It's nice to learn new things so as always the search continues.

Hello, I'm trying to improve the trigger/hammer quality, pull weight and reset qualities in my somewhat new albeit stock SW 696 plus performance model revolver. I've got a few hundred rounds through it. I'm hoping to get some information on which modifications might be best suited for competition and fun range use (not carry). I've spent much of my years shooting and occasionally competing with the 1911 and competition shotguns so I've developed and gained comfort and competence with a very light, short take-up and defined reset and break. I'm not expecting a 1911 trigger quality in the revolver but i'd sure like to get a somewhat similar type of action feel or quality. I do understand that the trigger action's are rather dissimilar in the these formats. I'm fairly competent and safe with polishing, using fine stones and changing out springs. Perhaps if it is possible to summarize some of the most significant pros and cons that would surely help me. I'd very much appreciate your help.

thank you, wasn't familiar with that model, i'll do a search

thank you....i will check with our local shop and see if they carry it. hate to throw money at problems but this way i'll be able to compare and or adapt. appreciate the help.

thank you so much....i'm grateful and will read up on your recommendation

thank you both, i'll review your posts...appreciate your help

HI, take a peak at this gentleman's series of videos in which he instructs and builds 1911s....there are quite a few videos that nicely illustrate the process. here is one for example

Hello, I recently purchased a S&W L Frame PERFORMANCE CENTER® MODEL 686 PLUS revolver. (https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/l-frame-11760) In my opinion it's a nice revolver with good balance. The factory trigger action is fair but will shortly merit a trigger/action job. The challenge i'm hoping to remedy relates to the grip. My trigger finger (index) protrudes well to the other side of the frame impinging on my support hand fingers when i place the trigger face at the last joint or even the distal pad of the trigger finger (I'm not pressing on the frame). I generally wear a size L or XL glove. In retrospect perhaps i should have purchased a larger frame platform but i'd like to try and make this one work. I would like to use the pistol in some local competitions shooting weak hand and strong hand and two handed grasp, we shoot some variations on steel plates, Texas star, poppers etc. I'd very much appreciate your help, insight and recommendations.

if i might suggest...i found it very important to ensure that the 30LPI checkering you've effected is truly full depth. Sometimes it feels as though you've achieved full depth based on effort however you may not have. At that point the curved single point file seems to track much easier. Please make sure that i orient the checkering to my body such that my hand and arm can draw or push axially with minimal to no deviation.