sinnsyk

Rob, You have a small frame Stock II right ? If so, I don't have any bases that'll work for you - yet. I do have the H141S which can give you 23 + 1 round in 9mm in the small frame mags. I am working on a H550S which will be same depth as the H550, but now for small frame. If IPSC Production allows this these will be great base pads.

We had to shoot the videos while working so you might hear Emma on the phone or packing orders etc. We had a phone come in during #3, but I stopped so we cut that part. Yeah, I don't reload anymore. I've got 3 presses sitting in the garage and I make sure my guests load both theirs and my ammo, he he.

Videos are being uploaded right now: Go back to the article and check it out: Henning Flat Trigger System - Now with Videos It's a total of 8 videos.

Been a busy day today. We've shipped a lot of triggers. We're now working on getting the videos out. One note that is in the video and one shooter already encountered. The trigger pin nut may need to be fitted to your frame. The frame's vary so you may need to take a file to fit it into the cut-out. I had the nuts probably made slightly too big, but I tried to get them so they would fill the hole as much as possible and also be able to use the side flats to hold it while you screw the pin into it. It's very easy to do and you may need to round the two edges to slip it into the frame cut-out.

I'll let you know when they're ready. Thomas got some work to do on them first.

My friend Thomas is visiting from Norway. He's pretty crafty at video-editing so we filmed me while I installed the trigger on my Open Gold Team. It'll be a total of 8 separate clips so you can download and view. That will help you to see how I go about to put it in my gun. It's all pretty self-explanatory, but it doesn't hurt to see someone do it first. It also shows a few things that you may encounter. Some of you are pretty savvy and can figure everything out on your own. Some are a little hesitant to tackle these things. I know that I personally am horrible with reading instructions being too impatient. But watching a video I can deal with so figured I'd try to help those of you in the same shoes as myself.

Dave I will make an adjustable one, so probably better off waiting.. I'm hoping to get on this adjustable trigger project at the end of December. I'm leaving for Phoenix (Area 2) on Wednesday next week, back for a few weeks and then off to Norway for a week. My brother's expecting a baby so I'm heading over to be with them. When I'm back on Dec 8th or so I'll be cranking on new products until Shot Show.. I really want a length adjustable one and as long as we can get it the way we envision it, it'll be beyond your dreams.

Hey, very cool. I saw that. I'm putting them together as fast as I can..

We could definitely skeletonize it and you could do that yourself as well. We could also put drilled and tapped holes in them if anyone wants to add a spacer. But the plan is to make a length adjuster which is why I thought it wouldn't be necessary. Feel free to mod to your hearts content. I shipped out several triggers today so you should have them early next week. We are working on some install videos right now just so that you have a little more info when you work on them. It's pretty easy, but they are tight fit so there is no knowing what kind of minor challenges you may encounter. I'm trying to cover it in a simple way.

The idea Paul is outlining is what we originally were going to do for length adjustment, but we've got a much cooler idea in the works. For those who want the trigger now and later realize you want it later you could do what Paul says. It's hard to say how long it'll take to get the adjustable one made. It's a little bit complicated, but very doable.

I have plans to make a fully length adjustable trigger soon. I've got some pretty cool plans for it. But after shooting this trigger it's not as pressing as I really like it how it feels. If you want this trigger longer you could also add some material to it in the front. Probably would work to glue some delrin onto it and cut to fit. Won't look as sharp, but it'll work. This version was originally meant to be length adjustable, but we came up with a different idea for adjusting length so we didn't want to do it to this one.

Regarding trigger length / hands etc. I use size 10 gloves which means I doesn't have small hands. For some reason the trigger feels good and seem to fit a variety of hands. It's a lot shorter than the old, but with no pre-travel and running on rails it's amazing the more control it gives me. Getting this trigger released was a big undertaking, but it was worth it.

Hey I just uploaded an article where you can also buy it. I am offering it at a special introduction price for a short while then it'll get up to the real price. So if you want one, get on it. I know there's a lot of guys on BE that's been waiting on this trigger so I want to offer it at a good deal for you guys who has been following this thread. Henning New Flat Trigger Article

Hey Edwin if you don't think it looks racy, then please tell me what you consider to be racy.

I'm working on an article and I hope to have them available in the webshop tomorrow. Now I've got to head to Denver Airport to pick up Thomas. He's ready for a beer so we're over and out for the evening.. Enjoy the pictures. Hope they are what you all were waiting for..

The trigger itself is made from 416 stainless steel and hardened to Rockwell 37. As you can see from the pictures, it's got a boss where the trigger pin holds it into the frame. This allows the trigger to pivot on a smaller surface, hence reducing friction. The trigger pin hole is 0.0995" and the pin is 0.0990" allowing just enough room to keep the trigger pivoting tight in the frame without having friction. From the front you can see the pre-travel screw which is a custom-made screw that now meets the frame on a larger surface than what the factory does. This will ensure an easy way to adjust the pre-travel as you don't have to worry about it meeting the frame in any particular point. The screw is made from 303 stainless. The trigger as it sits in the frame. I have the pre-travel adjusted to about a 0.020" pre-travel movement (all depends how you try to measure it). It feels like almost no pre-travel at all and as the trigger resets it goes right back ready to fire. You can see the new solid trigger pin sitting in the frame. It uses a T10 Torx head which is the same as my grip screws. Here is inside the frame and you can see how you adjust the over-travel. The overtravel is now moved to inside the trigger/frame. I did this to clean up the look of the trigger and it is also where the new trigger spring is kept in place. The over-travel screw and the trigger spring sits in the same position. Which makes it really easy to take the trigger in and out as the spring can be made sure to stay in place by just putting a little oil in the spring hole which is enough to grab the spring while inserting it into the frame. Unfortunately this picture got a little blurry, but it shows all the parts of the kit; the trigger, the trigger return spring, the trigger pin & nut, the pre-travel screw and the over-travel set screw. The back side of the trigger also shows the boss. The trigger itself is 0.250" wide whereas the boss is about 0.335" which makes it sit tight in the frame. The trigger again in the frame. I haven't been able to source a 0.250" long roll pin to hold the trigger to the trigger bar. So what you do is use your existing trigger bar pin and shorten it to 0.250 - 0.260" so it doesn't stick outside. My trigger is narrower than the factory for one reason; so that it will not stick outside the trigger guard.

It's here !! Just got the pre-travel screws and I am picking up the trigger, trigger pin and nut from heat treat. I will take pictures this afternoon and make them available tomorrow.

Hi Andreas, Welcome to the world of ipsc. Be careful, it can ruin your life... or at least change it. In my fourth year of shooting I quit my job and left for the US to travel and shoot for six months. Coming back my desire to go back to a day job was gone and a few years later I permanently moved to the US. Now, fourteen years later my life is all ipsc, shooting and these Tanfoglio guns. But I guess I sort of have a day job again... :roflol: The ultimate cool thing about IPSC is that you'll get friends all over the world and if you just join your local shooting buddies at matches, soon you'll be asked to go with them to your Nationals Championship, then shortly followed by European Championships and World Championships. I think it's a great way to see corners of the world you'll never otherwise discover. Next year, 2010, it's Serbia. My Norwegian buddies are already planning everything so you kind of don't even have a choice... just start saving money and plan your shooting vacation. Back on the real topic I guess... For minor loads you could shoot anything from 6lb - 10lb springs. I shot a local Steel Challenge match in 2008 here in Colorado and I used my same 40 S&W, but downloaded to about 135-140 power factor (165 gr bullets and 4.0 Clays if I remember correct). I experimented with both 8lb and 6lb springs. The 8lb spring was very reliable and I could probably take it to any match and have 100% function. I then started playing with the 6lb and I found it to shoot softer. It required that I kept the gun very clean and lightly lubed with Slide-Glide Lite. I really liked how the 6lb spring shot. Note that my gun has been more than broken in, has a very minor lightening in the slide and been IonBond'ed. Frame and Slide work well together and I also run a 13lb hammer spring which reduces the resistance as well. This year I shot a couple of local Bianchi Cup matches. I have a 38 super minor upper (very old, lighter slide than current model). I put it on my Limited 40 frame. The loads were Hornady 121 HAP bullets as these are super accurate with Clays Powder. Don't remember how much, but a nice and soft load. Not sure exactly why, but I had to use a 10lb spring to make it reliable. I'm sure the 8lb would have been much more pleasant to shoot. One of the reasons I probably had to increase the recoil spring weight is because my mags had very stiff springs in them. I played with it a little more later and cut a coil off which seemed to take some of the pressure off. With a little more dedication to it I'm sure I could have made it work reliable with 8lb spring. Not sure if I could really make a 6lb spring work with hollow points. I would probably have to shift to round nose and done some polishing on the slide/barrel to make sure it's well broken in. Springs are cheap so I would get 6lb, 8lb and 10lb. That way you can experiment with different loads and make sure you have a heavy enough spring for the gun to work every single time. As your gun gets smoother etc and you get in tune with it, go lighter and make sure it works 100%. Hammer springs... 13lb spring is the lightest you can go and this is what I'm running 100% of the time. If you do, you'll need my XL firing pin if your gun is a large frame and my Long firing pin if it's a small frame. Those parts are no brainers, change them and you'll have reliable ignition, lighter trigger pull and be able to run lighter recoil springs as well. You can also call me and speak a danish if you want; + 1 720 352 1080 or text me at Facebook when you have a question; Henning Wallgren. This forum is also full of knowledgeable Tanfoglio enthusiasts who are always willing to help out. There are very few things who isn't covered here and the chance of running into something that nobody has encountered would be slim. Almost forgot... on recoil buffers etc. The way the guide rod is constructed you couldn't just run a buffer and expect things to work. The guide rod head is very small and a buffer would get chewed up quickly. However.. there are issues with the current guide rod where it (in particular major loads) destroys the frame by pushing material out. If you have a hard time pulling the upper off from the frame it's because material is blocking the barrel lug. In less than a month I will have my prototype guide rod ready which sits in the frame differently. If it works well, it will be accompanied by a 7075 aluminum shock buffer. Det er god !

Hey. On the sear there is a lever that interacts with the thumb safety. If you didn't take any material off on this lever you shouldn't even be able to put the gun on safe. That at is the normal status of things. If your thumb safety / trigger group etc for some reason is worn / fits differently and you can put the thumb safety on safe without having to file on that lever then something is wrong with either safety or possibly sear housing. If that's the case, then you'd need to build up the safety on the bottom on that lever that touches the thumb safety. I've done this before, but we're talking in the 90's where parts weren't as oversized probably. If you filed and took too much off, yes the gun will fire because the sear is now allowed to move even though the safety is on. Fitting that lever to your thumb safety is how you stop the sear from moving when safety is on. Most likely you can fix it, just have to put a weld on the sear lever and re-fit it. A competent gunsmith should be able to help you out. Call me if you have any questions.

I just got a large shipment of Blade-Tech holsters in stock so might as well run a sale for all you guys here at BE.com. I carry DOH and Stingray holsters for 0) Limited, Stock II, Limited Pro 0) Match, Steel (note match is for match w/o attachment rail) Just put a note in the comment box something to the effect of "Blade-Tech 20% off". It's too much pain to change my website so this will be for those of you who pay attention. The sale will run until the end of the year 2009. We are working on new holster for the Match with the attachment rail. I've had to find a gun and shipping it to Blade-Tech to get a mold made. It'll probably be available in about a month. ;-)

Thanks I guess that says it right there and finally looks like some rules that makes sense. 15 rounds will also stop chase the race game in production and level the playing field. Good call in my opinion. This means that my basepads will join the list of accepted aftermarket parts including contour grips and iFiber front sights. For large frame guns this means H-400, H-520, H-550 and I guess technically even H-141 would be legal. I currently only make the H-141S for small frame, but I have H-550S in the works which would be a great pad for IPSC Production which also fits the IPSC Standard Box Rule. For those who haven't seen the light on Stock II yet... if you get that gun in 40 S&W you could shoot it in both Production and Limited / Standard division. With the H-550 type mags you can get as much as 19 + 1 for IPSC Standard division and 21 + 1 in USPSA Limited division. Just download to 15 rounds for IPSC Production and 10 rounds for USPSA Production. I've already talked to a few shooters who have ordered this gun as a combo-gun for both division.

btw. I'm as of today also looking into making a better sear that will work for DA guns etc. That is the main problem at the moment and it's a good chance I'll have a new sear soon.

Would you post the new PD rules ? I don't pay too much attention to them as I'm more into Limited/Standard. We're making more grips and pads at the moment and I will for sure have more pads. For small frame I need to know what the rules are so I can comply. I will for sure have pads that'll fit into PD and as you know they will be a lot better quality than factory.

First official match testing of the new trigger at the local ipsc match in Boulder yesterday... Three of us shared my gun using the new flat trigger and everyone was very pleased. Myself and my buddy both have large size hands. His wife has small hands. Fit all of us and several of the local EAA shooters got to check it out. Gun performed without any problems and due to the trigger's precise fit in the gun I feel it helps shooting more precise than before. Originally I would have thought the trigger would be too short for my hands, but during the courses of fire (four stages) I never perceived anything but a good trigger control. Full focus on the sights and all my shots were placed exactly where I called them. In the past I've felt that I've yanked hard shots off and into No-Shoots etc. The Boulder match / stages has a tendency for some tough and tricky shots. Field courses with multiple 15+ yard targets heavily covered with no-shoots. I don't know why they have to make the stages so difficult every time, but they do. A little off on the trigger control and the shot breaks right into those white things.. I watched many shooter new to our sport walk away with extraordinary many penalties. Personally I felt the level of difficulty at this match was beyond what we want to test. I think the trigger made me experience an unusually strong trigger control which was a fantastic feeling. Weeks prior to the match I had several prototype return springs made. We experimented with a 0.014" and 0.018" music wire coiled spring. 14 was too light and 18 felt too heavy. I had an 0.016" made which worked out perfect with a positive, but not more than necessary weight spring. The lighter the spring, the lighter the trigger pull and I feel we've achieved that goal. I still don't have the custom pre-travel screw, but expect to have it by end of next week. The screw machine shop I use for making this screw is very meticulous and we've worked carefully to make a tight fitting pre-travel screw that is beyond any standard screw specifications. A typical tight screw is classified as 3A. What we did was to tweak the numbers to fit the actual threaded hole in the trigger. The hole is standard 4-40 threads, but what I don't like about going with conventional off-the-shelf screws is that they have slop which would have resulted in a screw wiggle. Once you get the screw adjusted to where you want it, it should be locked down using loctite or vibra-tite. I am toying with the idea of pre-setting the trigger to where I think it'll be and also have the adjustment screws pre-coated with Vibra-Tite. For Vibra-Tite information go to: Vibra-Tite VC-3 The pre-travel screw can be adjusted roughly 0.080" in length. Yesterday we shot it without a screw so it had a lot of take-up. I'm well used to it and have in the past stayed away from adjusting the factory trigger pre/over travel tight. Due to the sloppy trigger to frame fit of the factory trigger it can cause problems when you adjust the screws too tight. With my new trigger you can go crazy and really have the shortest possible trigger travel. Now it'll be up to how short the reset is and how well all the other parts play along (trigger bar to trigger plunger and sear). It's also addressed the typical difficulty of re-assembling the trigger back into the frame. With the factory trigger, the spring is held in place with the trigger pin. Many of you have taken the trigger in/out and know what a pain that is. With my new trigger system it's easy to take the trigger out for adjustment / work etc. The new return spring is similar in size as the extractor spring. It is held in by the trigger itself, sitting in a small pocket. Trust me, it's cool. And instead of the factory trigger pin which eventually will get worn out and start moving out... the system comes with a solid pin which is threaded and a special nut holds it in place. At the moment, the trigger itself, the pin/screw and nut is being heat treated. They are all made from 416 Stainless Steel. The pre-travel screw is made from 303 Stainless Steel and all parts should come together end of the week. All spares will also be made available so that if you ever lose a part or need to replace any of the 6 or 7 parts it will be supplied with, you can order them separately. Kit [currently] comes with a) Trigger Trigger Return Spring c) Trigger Pin/Screw d) Trigger Nut e) Trigger Pre-Travel Screw (installed) f) Trigger Over-Travel Screw (installed) It may also come with a new trigger bar pin if I can find the one I want to use. Otherwise you will need to shorten the factory pin. The new trigger pin could also be installed on factory triggers if you end up liking that concept better. You would need to ream the factory trigger to fit the pin. If there's an interest in this I will source 0.0995" reamers and make them available. Alright, I'm rambling on nit-picking details here, but for those who are as nerdy as I on this stuff... the new trigger will have a 0.0995" reamed trigger pin hole. The trigger pin itself is about 0.0005" smaller so as you can gather.. the fit is as tight as possible to give you just enough fit to have minimal movement. And it's enough to not create a bind. I will have a full article as soon as I get everything together. I've refrained from posting pictures until I've got the finished product. I've been really excited about this project for a long time and it's really been a long way coming. A straight trigger has been in conceptual design for well over a year and we started prototype machining back in August. If you could have been a fly on the wall for all the discussions and thoughts my machinist and I have had over this thing you would go nuts and just tell us to finish the damn thing. You will be very pleased with the finished product.

Latest news... I've now got all the parts except for the pre-travel screw. Just talked to the shop today and they are running them today. This means we should have all components towards mid-end of next week. btw. the trigger will work for all single action EAA / Tanfoglio models. Know that any Double Action Tanfoglio/EAA also can be converted to single action ! Just get my SA trigger and remove the "interruptor" from the hammer. That's it !