BOOST

Shooting out of an AR 14.5 w/1:7 twist , and up to 100yds max BTW................Would +/- .4 variance hurt accuracy a lot? Would it affect the bolt cycling rate( I normally adjust the gas block to where it starts to short stroke, then make one complete turn open) ?

Im about to run out of H335 which I really like using because its meters well and is very accurate. not so very easy to get right now so I will start using Varget which I have 8 pounds of. But I've been reading that Varget does not meter well. How bad is it really? do I really need to use my electronic trickler and charge each round by hand instead of using my 550B?

They seem to be more avail and cheaper than Pmags. Manufacturer says it 100% funtional with AR15s... although designed for foreign rifles .. just wanted to see if anyone here compete with them and if it drops out of the lower smooth. .

Thanks guys !! Just placed an order ;-)

Was about to put in an order for a Battle Arms ambi-safety for my AR15... and " yikes" soo many lever choices: STANDARD , SHORT , THIN/SHORT, HYBRID, THIN, CRANK Im right handed and have large hands. So just needing some input and no way getting all just to test out. So what combo you're using and why?

I would think that a memory type stage is essential for any practical shooting match. I try to mix it up to balance things out. -Memory -Hoser -Accuracy -Moving targets -run & gun -weak/strong hand -retreat -etc -etc

That is EVIL

Thats what I call it, stages with options... The haters call it gotcha stages....

What are they really? if they are ,are they bad? I design a lot of stages that has hidden targets or targets that can be shot in multiple positions. Sometimes shooters will engage the same target twice because of the stage design. Do you hate them?

I removed my T1 and mounted it on my Open STI major 9. I use the M4 because of the larger FOV, and i feel that the 4 tiny scews that mounts the T1 just gets me wondering "what if i drop my rifle or hit a barricade"..I have a lightweight barrel anyways. ...

This year's Nationals is a big MAYBE for me( $ and 3 kids)...... I would really like to use my slot instead of giving it away again....

Believe me, the margin is a lot of info for me.. If I was 98% to a "Super" in a National match, I'd be doing a lot of dry-fires for the next....but if I was 75% , I'd be doing dry-fires and losing 50lbs ..... ; )

But I don't like winning by Default ( DQ'd competitor) .......

Don't get me wrong, I enjoy every win. To me it's not just winning, it's how I get there.... Winning by an inch is good but winning by a mile is even better. OR WINNING by shooting HANDICAP(Production gear in LIMITED or LIMITED in Open)

I guess that's what bothering me , is " how could I be so stupid?" mistakes. I mean, this is not the first time. My accuracy don't give me much problems, it's the brain farts !!

Even though I just won a match ( level 2) , I'm still bothered by my performance . Had the wheels come off on a long course.. Being less than 20 pts away from losing , I feel that I just got lucky that the other guys screwed up also...I really like winning by a bigger margin , usually 60+ points. Am I just greedy?

Open pistol uses slow powders to work the comp more effectively than fast powders. I would think rifle would be the same...My H335 is depleting so thinking of using Varget... Using 55gr MG's

Accuwedge? Camming takedown pins? Didn't know there was aid for such.... thanks ill reseach

That sounds like a good idea... I was able to tighten up the upper/lower by turning the buffer tube inwards one full turn, then file the tube down until the desired fit where the takedown pins require some tapping(I could still takedown with MY excessive finger pressure). About 1/8 of material was removed from half way up.

Can a loose fit cause problems? My brother's Colt seems pretty loose but I havent noticed any issues(same brand upper/lower). I've seen some sets that does not move at all and does not even have an air gap. Im putting together a bushmaster lower / MUR-1 upper and its a little loose. Just wondering maybe it can cause feeding problems. . Havent shot it yet, still waiting for gas tube.

I'm currently putting together a new rifle. Its my first AR. I'm still trying to understand the relation of the bolt carrier group and the buffer. To what I see they both move as one. of course I want soft shooting , light recoil,reliability, and fast bolt. But from the forums here and elsewhere it seems that light or heavy BCG / BUFFER reduces recoil. unless I'm reading them wrong? PARTS so far: Daniel Defense 14.5 mid-length LW Syrac adjustable XL Super Comp MUR upper DPMS gas tube Bushmaster lower Young's NM chrome Mil-spec trigger CTR(mil) Samson 12" handguard T1

I just got a Youngs BCG NM chrome...it supposed to be an ounce heavier... So my question is: Do I need to reduce an ounce from my buffer to balance out the moving parts? Thanks in advance

Prior to 4 years ago I had no problems with Wolf SP( when it was the gold/yellow color) . Now these silver seems to have a harder cup.

Well, Like I said, I had same corrosion from the same lot and boxes were in two different places. Actually where I live there is a lot of humidity. But it doesn't seem to affect all of my other Primers such as federal small pistol, federal large Primers, federal small rifle, CCI small pistol and small rifle, Winchester small rifle, Magtech small rifle, And Wolf small rifle.

I bought 2 cases of wolf small pistol primers about 3 years ago. One case is lot #13 - 09 opened and fired approximately 2200 rounds with about 100 rounds misfire(in 2010 when I was using my Limited STI) . So deemed all my WOLF primers shitty and use them only for practice, and Winchester SR for matches. And for the past 2 years I've been shooting just my Glocks with Federals...so now I decided to go back to my STI and start reloading practice ammo and this is what I found(see pics) the 2 boxes of primers which is in the plastic bag was kept in another room where is the open box was kept by my reloading table.They are from the same case,and have the same corrosion. I just open the other case (LOT #10-09), it looks fine doesn't seem to have any corrosion, and not sure if they will all go bang. looks like I'm going to test 100rds from this lot.