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michael1778

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Posts posted by michael1778

  1. Thank you all. I decided to pick up the phone and call Firebird. They should have a quote to me shortly. Lead time has to be checked on a couple of my selected parts. Regardless, it was a great discussion with Jim and Nanci. A big thank you to Jim for stepping away from his current build to talk to me personally. Good people!!

    It's good to be able to look at different options and then make the decision.

    Mark, that looks like your rifle with the ACS stock on the red background. True?

  2. First, you won't buy only once, lets just set that nasty rumor down right now. :cheers:

    Have you shot a 16, 18, 20 at various distances and set up in various configurations? If not, that really is your best bet. Longer barrels kind of help with velocity vs. recoil, but they transition slower. Who cares if you can run .10 splits if your transitions are measured with a sun dial? The common wisdom today favors the 18" barrel length, but some people do better with shorter or longer. The length, especially in TO and Open has more to do with recoil impulse than velocity BTW.

    If I was in your position and I was dead set on a JP, I would order the 20" and get to practicing with it. I would also shoot some 18" guns when I got a chance. If the 18" really felt (and proved on the clock) better, I would, in November, take that barrel off and get it cut back to 18". Add maybe $150 max to the deal and know you have the time to get familiar now, and make a change if you want later. It is pretty hard to glue 2" back on an 18" barrel.

    Never shot an 18" barreled AR before. Only 20" a few times way back in college (Army ROTC before I transferred majors and schools to study engineering) 24 years ago and my current 16" carbine length gas S&W M&P15.

    Actually, I've considered Loki and Firebird, also. But I strongly dislike the location and mechanics of the traditional AR charging handle.

    BTW, thank you. I was hoping to get your thinking on this matter. You made a recent reply to another AR barrel post and I found your comments very helpful!

  3. First, let me apologize if this is more new guy junk I'm posting. I hope it is useful to others over time.

    There is a new JP rifle (SCR-11) available now that has a 20" inch medium contour barrel. I could order it today and have it ship in a day or two. :D

    But, I'm trying to buy a rifle that would be the center of a configurable system that could span from Limited to Tactical Optics to Open with accessory, optics, or other sighting system changes. I see that as investment protection for such a premium rifle. Also, my shotgun choice will push me into Open in a monthly match close to me only because of barrel length. So be it, I'll run around with the race gun crowd for that match, fine. A different type of fun....

    If I get the same or similar JP rifle in 18" light or medium contour I'll have to go through the normal order and custom build process that is 8-10 weeks long. I'll miss preparation for Texas multigun and quite possibly the match itself. If that's the way I should go to get the most out of the investment over the long-term, then so be it. However, I wanted some experienced people to check me.

    20" for Texas seems like a nice idea since I'll be in Limited at that match (with some longer range shots). My worry is that in other matches or shorter range courses of fire I could be holding myself back on transition time between targets.

    The SCR-11 that is available now is functionally configured as I would with the except the 20" medium contour barrel. I wouldn't pick the stock or grip on this SCR-11 but those are easily removed, saved for another build or future need, and replaced with more desired items. The barrel is my 'hang up'. I'd like to hear your ideas on if I'm stressing over a less minor point than it seems. Trying to buy once/cry once!

    Thanks,

    Mike

  4. Has anyone figured out what would work with the Remington Versa Max to make it competitive in Open division? I'm trying to lay out at least a two year plan (maybe longer) and I'm toying with the idea of trying Open someday. It would be nice to not have to get a totally different shotgun if I decide on the Versa Max for this year. If I had to get a different shotgun, I'd probably just get an Akdal and call it done. 2012 is my "investment year" gear, training, match time, etc.

    Thanks in advance,

    Mike

  5. I wish I could combine the Stag and Loki...

    I like the Loki reciever, lower,and adjustable gas... but with the Samson forearm and Super 3 gun trigger.

    Loki will custom build you exactly what u want.

    As a new guy to this sport, I appreciate two big things:

    1) This community. Sponsored shooters are here talking to us and helping us out on a daily basis. Other experienced shooters, as well. All very much appreciated.

    2) The vendor community seems deep. JP, Loki, Firebird, Stag, and many others. We have a rich selection of choices!! :cheers:

    I didn't mean to hijack the thread, but this particular conversation brings out these two thoughts very clearly.

    Thank you all. Ssanders224, let us know how it goes. A very customized Loki would be interesting to see. I've been interested in their DMR upper or rifle myself for 20".

  6. I was told 10" to 12" past the tube. I split the difference and cut mine at 11" and it's been absolutely 100% and easy to load full up.

    I installed my +4 extension on my Benelli SuperNova last night (well technically this morning.....early) and cut the spring to 12" past the tube end. Loads nicely and seems to feed well on the aluminum snap caps I had on hand. Even works well with the -2 plug that came from the Benelli factory. Puts me at 6 rounds instead of 8, which I would need if I give in and do WW2 division at Texas Multigun in April. :devil:

    I need range time this coming holiday weekend to prove it out.

  7. They are suppose to come with instructions. Mine did not.

    Rule of thumb is to cut it 12 - 16" longer than the total length of the tubes combined.

    If you don't, it will be a B!T@# to get in and not likely to give you the capacity expected.

    Reading your post I thought I should read my sheet from NC. It says "a good place to start on the free length of spring is 10 inches to 16 inches longer than the entire magazine assembly (Nordic Extension Tube Assembly + Factory Magazine)"

    I'm simply passing this along as a point of information. They go on to mention the previously stated wisdom of leaving it longer and then cutting down as needed over time.

    I didn't realize this thing came with instructions until I read your post. Thanks!

  8. Anybody ever find a factory fit butt pad?

    Only thing I have found is that ATI replacement stock. It has a thicker pad built in. CZ USA sells it as an accessory as well as the factory-installed stock on a newly released 712 model.

    I was measuring the stock end against Limbsaver templates a couple of days ago. I think a slip on will be the way to go when considering their product line.

  9. any idea on what the cost would be to get a super nova and set it up for 3 gun?

    Bought my Supernova back in December? Maybe November? About $425 for the 24" vent rib version. $80 for the Nordic Components +4 tube, nut, and magazine spring set. I splurged and did $19 for the teflon coated NC follower as well. For the moment, I'm done fussing with it. But, I'm considering changing the front fiber optic factory sight. Doesn't seem very bright in some situations.

    It's wonderful how the lifter gets out of your way and STAYS out of your way when loading. Genius!!

    So, I'm slightly north of $525 (after shipping and taxes) for a wonderful pump gun. Others get the Nova instead. But, I wanted the ComforTech stock with the option of adding a pistol grip stock later.

    -- Mike

  10. OK guys, like I said in earlier posts I am a AR-15 newbee. But I am eager to learn. Everyone talks about 69 gr ammunition being the best. Can you please tell me what manafacturer and where are the best deals to purchase in bulk.

    New Stag Arms 3 G on its way............

    Any and all information will be greatly appreciated.

    "Best"?? I know plenty of people that shoot 55 grain for most of their competition. Maybe they do a 69-ish or 77-ish grain for long shots with wind. For a short range rifle stage I don't plan on using something expensive.

    Best in what way?

    Welcome to the forum and I hope you thoroughly enjoy your new rifle. :cheers:

  11. Do any of you have experience with the Saiga? Seems like an AR style mag change would be a big benefit in a match. Haven't seen much buzz on here and was wondering what general opinion was.

    It's a big benefit if you plan on shooting in the Open division of competitions. You won't be shooting against poor saps like me that have to load each shell by hand (Tactical Optics or Limited, for example). That wouldn't be 'fair'.

  12. I have considered that as well but it would still be over what I would pay for the M1A with the parts I would want to use. My mind is not made up just thinking of my options. My main question is which M1A do I need. For example is the National Match gun a waste of money for our game and is the Loaded a better choice for the money?

    Thanks

    Pat

    I searched this particular forum for 'M1a national match'; not the three words in quotes as a rigid phrase, simply those three words.

    Some quick results of interest below.

    Thoughts from Bryan:

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=125388&st=0&p=1416291&hl=m1a%20national%20match&fromsearch=1entry1416291

    Some advise from Kurt:

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=30250&st=0&p=348363&hl=m1a%20national%20match&fromsearch=1entry348363

  13. Ok...enough with the 007 top secret lingo. Who is making this thing, what is done to it (from Benny's comment, not much) and would you buy one.

    My thoughts: The New "factory" Gun..seems way overpriced..too many people involved that need to make a buck and no big company is going to deal with the liability involved with a highly (i.e. properly) modified race gun, hence no bolt mods,etc.

    I may have misunderstood Benny's post if so i retract my rant....

    Benny makes them.

  14. Which M1A set up is best suited to three gun for heavy metal or tac irons. My tax return is going to be a bit lighter than I planned so a Larue, JP or SCAR is out for now.

    Pat

    No DPMS?

    No thanks on DPMS, RRA or Bushmaster. The brands above are about the only ones I would consider.JP is nice but a bit heavier and more costly than the Larue. The SCAR is nice but expensive and the mags, trigger and after market rail would bring it up another 1K. So I got to thinking maybe going old school with an M1A. I may just save my money and see if I can see a PredatOBR, JP and SCAR17 at the Texas Multigun match this April.

    Pat

    You could go very 'old school' and grab an M1 Garand before you go to Texas Multigun. Shoot ya some WW2 division! ;) OK, I'll get serious.

    Bryan Ray has recommended the M1A Loaded in synthetic stock, if I recall correctly. Romero used some form of Noveske with the irons pushed way out to the near-end of the muzzle break last year when he was up against Bryan at Ozark. Hopefully Bryan and Mr. Kelley can stop by to give us their thoughts.

    My local shop could get me out the door with a Loaded M1A stainless steel barrel in synthetic for just north of $1700 after tax.

    NOTE: Dan posted while I was writing mine.

  15. fantastic, thank you. I will check out the ACS and UBR, she needs a stock that will help with a positive cheek weld.

    I very much enjoy my ACS stock on my M&P15. Big improvement over the factory stock. ACS is cheaper than the UBR. That being said, I'm looking at a UBR on a build sheet for a new JP. B)

    Lots to like about the ACS, in my less experienced view. Mine is very solid when locked down, as designed. Good luck to both of you!

  16. I would love to look at it. As soon as you post the pic. LOL

    With Benny's permission, here are the images from the Facebook album Remington Versa Max Tactical Package:

    http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/41973929145854758528811.jpg/

    http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/217/42641929145889091858711.jpg/

    http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/40638229145915091856111.jpg/

    http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/717/40254429145975425183411.jpg/

    http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/99/40440129146018758512411.jpg/

    I ran into some challenges for embedding those URLs within this post for a cleaner presentation. My apologies.

  17. I have not but I'm betting that my M2 is just as good or better and I didn't pay that much. It seems if you are going to ask people to spend $2400 on an item, you should put out some more detailed information about what was done except for the obvious. When you go to their website, it's just a bunch of marketing blurbs about how great it is...I just want to see the facts, that's all. If it turns out to be better then the one I have, it might be worth it. I'm sure most people feel the same way; tell us what you did to justify that cost. That's all I'm trying to get at...

    Doesn't Benny Hill hold the contract to do the factory 3-gun M2 shotguns? That's my recollection.

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