Buffalobolt

I've contacted my AD expressing my opinion to allow 8 Minor to Revolver Division. Current 627, Production Shooter...

I understand the reasoning behind not wanting to make large changes to the division if the majority of the shooter's never attend an upper level match, and they primarily just shoot at the local level. However, I would throw this out there; I personally have not traveled to larger matches, because I do only shoot a 627. As an example: I had planned on going to the MCC this past year. Sounded like a good time, and a great cause. I initially thought it was ran under ICORE rules (I even joined ICORE with no matches close to me, just so I could go to the MCC.) When I realized it was ran under IPSC rules I didn't go. I wasn't sure (and didn't ask, as I didn't want to ask the "dumb question") what happens at a "Revolver Only" match (MCC, Nationals, etc) when you screw up shoot that seventh round? There is no "Open" to be sent to.... Is it a DQ?? If you currently only shoot a 627 in IPSC, you'll not be inclined to shoot at larger matches for that reason. I may shoot my 627 in the Sectional this year in Production, but there is no reason for me to spend the time/money in traveling to larger matches, only to shoot one extra shot and be (for all intents, and purposes) DQ'd... How many others are in the same position?? Maybe not enough to warrant a change, but from the discussions here, it seems there "some" better alternative... (eliminate the bump to Open?)

343, You are correct, sir. I missed that...

I am "one of those shooter's", that uses his 627 in Production. Just posted such in the other thread... I think it "revolve's" (pun intended) around your individual theory of competing vs being "competitive". I KNOW that I'll likely never win a Production match with my 627. I sometime's shoot my Glock 19 in Production, or my 1911 in SS, where I'm MUCH more "competitive" in the overall local matches. BUT, I don't care. If I was only concerned with winning Production, I would shoot my Glock. For that matter, I should sell my 19 carry gun, for a 34 to have my best shot at being competitive. RIGHT NOW, there is only one place where I can shoot the 627 to capacity, and shoot my light 38 short Colts for both recoil and quick re-loading. While I give up two or three shots in capacity to the automatics, I still get to shoot the gun I LOVE TO SHOOT and compete. I'll always have my sights set on those that place above me as a barometer of my progress. And, always work towards getting better. Do I compare my stages against anyone shooting in the revolver class? Absolutely! I've even considered getting some Starline brass to load Major 38's to use in L-10, just to see how that affects my overall placement in the match. The bottom line is this; I still have a place to: Use the gun I love to use. Still have most of the challenges of using the revolver (I don't have to worry about those 8 shot strings though, so long as I don't miss!). Have more competition than I know what to do with... I figure that IF I can beat the auto's on their own ground, I'll only become better (and will be that much better with the auto...). That being said, IF 8 shot minor was approved for Revolver, I would switch in a heartbeat! For that matter, even if it remained 6 shot, but the 7th was a penalty (instead of a bump to open), I might still try that... Not sure whether it would be Major or Minor though... Those 38SC sure shoot sweat!

"I do shoot my 627 in production and I beat 50% of the other production shooters at nearly every local match, but I would rather it say "revolver" next to my name in the overall." +1

I have several. Used to shoot them in SASS. LOT'S of fun, if you don't mind fooling with black powder (smoke, smell, cleaning, smell ). I agree with the above posters; you want a steel framed gun if you plan on shooting it a bunch. Stainless is even better if you don't mind it not looking period. Most of mine came from Cabela's. I would consider them the Taurus's of the black powder revolver world. Shootable, and serviceable, but there are some manufacturer's that are a little better quality. That said, mine have literally had thousand's of rounds shot throught them in competition. Have wiped the smirk's off of many a smoke-less single action shooter! Once they could see me that is! There were a couple of things that seems to show up on my revolver's; hand wear, and nipple wear. While both are wearable items, in a corrosive enviroment, they do seem to have wear. Both are easily obtained for replacement though. If miss-fires start showing up, check the heighth of the nipples in comparision to each other. You may need to shim up one or two to get them up high enough for reliable ignition. Shims can easily be made from an aluminum coke can, with a sharpened 32acp case and a 22rf case (as I recall)used as punches. You'll also need a way to keep chain firing from happening. Several options; Wonder Wads (higher cost), Cream-of-Wheat over the powder, but under the ball, (cheaper, and you have breakfast with you at the range!), lube over the ball (cheap, but makes a huge mess but keeps fouling soft and the cylinder turning freely). I saw a recent article in a shooting magazine about whether a cap-and-ball revolver should be considered for a carry gun. While the article was interesting, and I have pondered it a time or two, it makes no sense to me, to risk my life when MUCH better options exist (most other options actually). That said, if that was all I had in a crissis, I would giv'm hell with five rounds and dissappear in the smoke screen!

Thanks, for the feedback guys! I'll triple check that measurement tonight. However, while my 0.358" cast bullets don't "drop" through the cylinder's of my other revolvers, they can easily be pushed through with little force. On my 627, not a chance...

Last night while cleaning my 627 I noticed that the bore brush was tight at the exit of the cylinder. I miked it out to 0.351"! Shouldn't it be closer to 0.357-0.358", or more? A bullet won't drop down through the cylinder. It seems that would hurt accuracy, and potentially be the cause of some of the leading I'm having (hard cast bullets with moderate velocities. 850fps in 38 short colt with a 158 gr bullet.). If that is too tight, what should it be? And, can I order a hand reamer from Brownell's (?) to open that up? I thought that I had read on here that was a known issue with S&W, but couldn't pull it up on the search. So, any thoughts on this are appreciated!

Thanks for the input guys! I saw some info on it and it got me to thinking...

You would likely have to shoot it with moon clips only, to get it to headspace correctly. Bu,t that's no big deal. Most shooter's likely do that anyways...

Has anyone on here ever set up, or tried, a 625 to shoot the 460 Rowland? It seems like it would be an easy enough conversion, and would let you go from IPSC to hunting just by changing loads...

Matt, I had a similar problem after doing some stoning on my gun as well. It took me a while to figure it out! Have you noticed that the trigger pull starts to get heavier just before the lite strikes start happening? What I found on mine was that the sear pin, on the front of the hammer was walking out as I would start shooting a stage. It would stick out far enough that it was dragging, and appeared to be keeping the hammer from falling completely. Once I found that, and peened the pin in place I haven't had any further issues. Not sure if that is what's going on with yours, but you mentioned that it happened after doing some stoning, which is exactly the same as mine. I had no issues with that before I started smoothing things up, and applying a bit a lube to moving surfaces...

John, I've been doing a little looking on flights out of Buffalo. So far, I'm not seeing any great options, so far. Prices are running $3-400 for most flights if booked now. Right now it's a toss up for me as to whether to fly, or drive it. I've not fully decided on attendance to the match yet. But, it sure sounds like a great time with revolvers, and good folk! It's a definate maybe so far!

Warren, Thanks for your help with this! I learned something on this today... Never had to deal with a rear sight before. PM sent.

Shoot! I didn't keep the old one with it being damaged and all. I assumed that they were a standard height. When I ordered they had .132 and .142 (if I remember correctly). I assumed this was the notch width, and went with .142" figuring that a wider notch would let me pick up the front sight quicker. If I measure my front sight, will that give you enough information?