Shadyscott999
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Posts posted by Shadyscott999
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The biggest place where I see a difference between my 9 major gun and my SC gun is in SH/WH shooting. The SC gun is just softer and flatter even though it is lighter. Both guns are running at 177pf. The 9M with HS6 and the SC with 3n38.
I am have consistently faster splits with the SC gun verified on the timer. Needless to say, the 9M gun is relegated to a backup gun at this point.
The man reason I switched to SC has nothing to do with the above. I switched because I HATE LOADING 9 Major on my 1050. My output rate with 9M is probably less that 25% of SC. The time I spend picking up brass at a match pales in comparison to the time I save at the reloading press. That alone is reason enough for me to shoot 38SC.
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It's been done and discussed here. I'd suggest sending your frame to SV to fit the grip for you.
This. Send it to Brandon.
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"Go to Lowe's or Ace Hardware and buy a $8.00 roll of 3m stair tread tape and make your own."
That's what I'm using now, but it is really fugly! (I'm not good at cut & paste)
I can't see how the aluminium grip could be that much different. i would give the Dawson's a try. It is only a few buck so you don't have much to loose.
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Thanks for the replies, but I was told that the grip tape for the polymer frames won't fit the aluminum frame STI. (I have the standard aluminum,BTW) I suppose I could buy what's out there, and modify it somehow. Any suggestions?
Go to Lowe's or Ace Hardware and buy a $8.00 roll of 3m stair tread tape and make your own.
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I disagree on "the more the better." I have posted several times over the past couple of years that my first 40 open load (135 Rainier, 9.0 Silhouette) had too much gas. Once the bullet has left the comp, any extra gas produced goes out the end of the comp and contributes to muzzle flip. I moved up to a slightly faster powder (Power Pistol) and found the right balance of gas volume vs. gas pressure.
I am no authority on 40 open, but I know for a fact that the fast powders the OP was talking about SUCK for 38SC and 9Major. There is a reason the real authorities on Open guns, the builders recommend slow powders and a lot of them.
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I am running my #1 mag with SNL, Grams 11 coil with 2 coils cut off. I get 21 non reloadable and have been using it for about a year with no problems. I find it hard to believe a spring life is altered by cutting coils.
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Those slide cuts are sweet. Congrats!
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I talked to Bevin about these 6-8 months ago. He said he was thinking about doing them again. IIRC he said they were going to be north of $300 if he does them. My memory sucks so the price may be off.
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Alternately you can see if any local commercial finishing places do hard chrome. For example, I use a place in Denver for hard chrome and all they charge is tank time regardless of quantity in parts getting done. They charge $90 for the tank time and I get a couple other shooters to jump in on the tank time and it makes it super cheap per person.
You can spend a lot of money shipping stuff around, especially frames via FFL's, to get the same coatings that could be done locally. Do some searching for local metal finishing places. You might be surprised in what you find.
This is an excellent tip. There is a place in Charlotte NC than will turn a gun in 2 days. The do general metal plating and have gone all three of my guns.
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Cr speed or double alpha
I like the CR's better. The DAA are a bit too thick for me and some folks have a good bit of trouble getting holsters and mag pouches mounted.
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If you are still running 40, I would try some 135 and pump that baby up on the powder charge. My open guns (9mm and 38 sc) both run best at about 177pf. GAS! GAS! GAS! The more the better.
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I have one on mine. It helps more than you would think. It adds a bit of weight, and you can actually see the gas jets on film.
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Spray the cases with some One Shot. I can feel the lack of case lube much more with 9mm.
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Three things...
1. Accuracy
2. Accuracy
3. Accuracy
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It was too late for me to call and confirm that I was spreading misinformation and don't remember who had one and what they couldn't get at the time.
All I found was this thread from '03, looks like at the time you could still get everything just may have to wait for some parts.
No worries. This is a post from Dillion toward the end of your referenced thread...
Fellow 1050 users,
Everybody take a deep breath and relax. Almost all 1050 parts interchange with the Super 1050. The only parts that don't are the crank, journal,mainshaft, and bearings. These parts may occasionally run out, as they are now very low usage.If you periodically lube your 1050, these parts should last in excess of three million rounds. As these parts run out, we will order small quantities of them.Dillon has no plans to discontinue offering these parts! All of the more frequently used parts, primarily priming system and caliber conversion parts, toolheads, casefeed parts, all interchange with the Super 1050. Okay, breathe out.
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One other thing about the RL, there are some parts you can no longer get. The super may look a lot like the RL but there are som pretty significant differences between the two.
To my knowledge, this is incorrect. I have 2 RL1050's and every part is available.
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I wonder how many people voting have ever actually used a 1050.
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dont want to derail the thread, but can you elaborate on the "trashed top end" issue?
perhaps pics, perhaps details
I would If I could. I haven't seen the gun(Jeff still has it). When I get it back I will post pics. He says somehow after only about 3K rounds the gun went out of time and destroyed the lugs.
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Well, the top end of my open gun is trashed. Some type of timing issue ruined the barrel and slide. So being the standup guy that Jeff Abernathy is, he is building me a new tops end.
The current gun is a Tru bore with 4 holes that is tri topped and panel cut. I now have the opportunity to change everything if I want. The gun is really flat as it is using 121's and 3n38. I have always thought it was a little nose heavy; so I am thing about going Ti. Anyone have any suggestions on barrel and comp combos?
My current thinking is...
SVI Ribbed barrel w 4 conical popple holes
SVI ti comp.
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Times are hard for lot's of people now and it's going to get worse, hope your able to recover and get back on your feet.
Right now you could do more with the 550 loading for other guns you may have. 1050 may bring enough to help out for a longer time but needs funds to be usefull.
I'll be alright. I have no debt and refuse to get in the hole when I have things (luxuries) that I can get rid of if need be. I'd always rather have to replace "stuff" than try to dig myself out of a hole. It wasn't that long ago that having ANY reloading equipment was just a dream. I'm grateful to have this problem.
I would keep the 1050. You can easily by a conversion kit here and there as you need. i have 2 Rl's and I can do a caliber change in about 20 minutes. The time savings from loading in bulk then switching calibers is huge.
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I put mine is the tumbler for several hours to polish the inside. I then use rouge on the outside with a buffing wheel.
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N320 is a great powder for 40. The cost is really small when you figure it out per round. IIRC with my major loads, it was well under .01 per round difference.
Quick math.
N320 $00.0193 per round in powder
WW231 $00.0133 per round in powder
This is considering buying 4lb jugs of each at PV's current prices using my loads for 40 major. Find a powder you like and roll with it!
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Only when I am alone. Or with someone.
9mm major or .38 super?
in Open Pistols
Posted · Edited by Shadyscott999
That could be true. I just hasn't been the case with my guns. Both were built by Jeff Abernathy, but they are very different. The SC gun is a Truebore with 4 conical holes drilled a some super secret angle. The comp also has super secret tricks done to it.
The 9M gun is a SVI slide with a custom made comp and no holes, so I am not really comparing apples to apples.