RH45
-
Posts
2,005 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by RH45
-
-
As long as it still fits in the box.
-
4 minutes ago, floater said:
10+1 max, must "comply with rules for any IDPA pistol division before optic is installed". Appendix C "Carry Optics" 1.1.2A
Thanks
-
According to the tracking number, mine is supposed to be here tomorrow.
I hope it works as well for me as some other people have reported.
Most of my game guns are 1911s & 2011s, with sub 2# triggers.
I don't expect any plastic gun to have a trigger as nice as a GOOD 1911/2011, but, if it comes out as well as my Apexed, M&Ps, it will be shootable.
-
My 1.0, 5" Pro originally shot 1 3/4" groups at 25 yards, with loads it liked.
I ran it exclusively, for one season, in IDPA and USPSA.
At the end of the season, I noticed a big burr, on the barrel, where it meets the slide, at the front of the chamber.
I was going to file the burr off, but, took it to the range and benched it. It was shooting 6" groups, which, to me is not acceptable.
I called S&W, and they sent me a call tag. When it was returned, the paperwork said no work was done, but, it looked like a blind man used a really coarse grinder, and cut the burr off.
I took it back to the range, and it still shot 6" groups.
I sent it back to S&W.
Someone from S&W called me, and said that they were replacing the barrel, because someone had been grinding on the barrel hood, but, they wouldn't admit that it was done by someone down there. When it came back, with the new barrel, I tried several different loads through it, and the best were about 4". I then bought a KKM, which would shoot 2" groups, but, only with fairly hot 115 grain jhp loads. I bought an Apex, gunsmith-fit barrel, had it installed, and it tightened up group sizes with every load I've tried, and really tries to shoot a 1" group, with my original, 124 grain, match load, but, there's always a flyer, or two, that open up the groups to about an 1 1/2". I'm hopingthat after I get more rounds through it, that it will settle in.
I have a 1.0 compact, in 9mm, that has been acceptable out to 15 yards, but, at 25 yards, it was horrible. I was hoping Apex would offer a barrel for it, but, they told me they had no plans to make a barrel for the 1.0 compacts. I was going to get a KKM, but, Optics Planet was blowing out some Storm Lake, for about half price, so I rolled the dice and bought one. It now shoots actual groups at 25 yards. Not as tight as my Pro, with the Apex, gunsmith-fit barrel, but acceptable.
-
My buddy bought a 5", 2.0 and I took it to the range to see how it performed, compared to my Apexed, 1.0 Pro.
I was mostly running self defense loads, because that's what he bought it for, but, I did try a few of my pet handloads through it.
Ejection was very weak, except with +P loads.
Accuracy was ok, but, groups weren't nearly as tight as my Pro, with Apex, gunsmith fit barrel.
Shooting the same loads through both pistols, the 2.0 is a LOT softer shooting, so, I HAD to buy one.
I set mine up for Carry Optics, and replaced the stock recoil spring with a 13#, and found that it still needs at least 135pf just to function with a full magazine.
I swapped uppers, with my Pro, which will run down to 110pf, and I still needed at least 135pf to get it to function, with a full magazine.
My guess is that with the longer frame rails, they are causing more friction. Even though I've probably only put about 500 round through it, I've probably racked the slide 1,000 times.
I'm guessing that it will take 2-3K to get it to loosen up enough to run my "normal" 132pf load.
-
30 minutes ago, jcc7x7 said:
I would think since NOTHING in IDPA is loaded above 10 rounds that 10 is the Standard in IDPA!
PCC is 30 rounds
-
The provisional rules don't seem to address magazine capacity.
Some of the local match directors seem to think it's 10+1, because it's basically SSP with an optic, but, does anybody know for sure??
-
Some clubs around here are still having PCC shooters unbag at the line, and then bag up, after showing clear. Yes, doing it that way definitely takes more time.
The clubs that have racks, and you just grab your flagged carbine, muzzle up, and go to the line, doesn't take any more time than handgun.
-
I shot the clasifier last weekend.
It didn't start out well.
I shot the first target, with 2 to the body, and one to the head, then, went back to low ready. Then it hit me that all three targets were supposed to be one string. DUH!!
I THOUGHT I missed one of the head shots, so on the next string, I put 4 shots in to the head I THOUGHT I'd missed, figuring a 3 second procedural was better than a 5 second miss.
Well, when we went down to score the targets, one had an extra hit.
-
14 minutes ago, Bronco9588 said:
Can a ported gun be converted to production by a non ported barrel swap?
Yes
-
I would certainly prefer a smaller grip
-
As with my open guns, I don't want to run fmj in my MPXs because fmjs have exposed lead at the rear of the bullet, and, as you found out, cleaning the gas valve is a p.i.t.a.
I also want to run the cleanest powder, for the same reason, so I chose VV320.
I didn't like the feel of heavy bullets.
Even though they aren't the most accurate bullet, I went with Extreme 115 hollow points. They group about an inch at 25 yards, and upper A zone hits offhand at that distance, aren't a problem.
My USPSA load is 4.2 grains of 320, but, I have the longer barrel. My IDPA load is 4.5 grains of 320, that chronos out of my 5' M&P at 131pf, and 141pf out of my MPX.I can barely tell the difference between the two loads, regarding recoil & dot movement.
I'm guessing that, with an 8" barrel, you would need about 4.3 grains of VV320 to make pf, but, I prefer a little cushion, so I would probably go with 4.4.
A friend of mine, did a torture test on his, with no cleaning, and made it to about 5k before it started acting up.
I've been cleaning both of mine at about 500 rounds, and I think that's long enough because I have to use a brass punch to tap the valve apart.
-
I bought lightly used xfive, with a Romeo 1, from a fellow forum member, earlier this year, and the Romeo crapped out the day after I picked it up from my FFL.
I called Sig, and they sent me a call tag to send in the optic. It took about a month before they sent me a replacement.
Right now, Sig has the pistol, for the "upgrade".
It took 3 months before they sent me a call tag, for the pistol.
I really think that someone dropped the ball on it, because I registered another 320, on-line, and had a call tag in less than 2 weeks.
Hopefully, I can get a Gray Guns competition kit for it. I've been on their waiting list since March.
The little bit of shooting I did with the xfive leads me to believe that it might be the most accurate "plastic" gun I've ever shot.
The xfive has much less felt recoil, when compared to a standard 320, but, more than my 5" 2.0, M&P.
-
This might sound like a dumb question, but, have you done the "plunk"test with your ammo?
-
Did you try pulling the trigger, while trying to get the slide off?
-
Accurate #2 feels as close to VV320, and works great out of straight barrels, but, in an open gun, with a comp, leaves the barrel & chamber filthy
-
On 4/1/2018 at 10:35 AM, MemphisMechanic said:
@RH45 I looked them up, and they’re not too different.
Place JB Weld on the frame block here, or a weld on the back of the trigger bar, and file it down until the trigger can move rearward just enough to break. Then give it another 1/32” or so of travel for reliability’s sake:
Thanks!
If I remember correctly, the trigger bar has a forked end, with one part under the sear.
If so, can I get away with just welding/extending the top of the fork, or, do both have to be extended?
-
I didn’t like the metal tube, on the stock, so I put some black pipe insulation over the tubes.
Apparantly, they are hard on triggers. A friend of mine has almost 10k on his Hyperfire 24C, which is why I put Hyperfires in both of mine.
-
9 hours ago, Rudukai13 said:
In case anyone's interested, looks like Bar-Sto is now making bull barrels for the X5 - Standard, extended and ported, or extended and threaded;
I could maybe see why someone might want a threaded, or ported barrel, but, with as accurate as these pistols seem to be, I don't expect them to sell too many standard barrels.
-
4 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
I have not seen the internals of a 2.0
On the 1.0 I welded the back of the bar in a spot that hits the sear housing to build it up, then filed that down until the striker could be dropped.
Worked great. Felt it slightly in slow dryfire. Couldn’t tell the difference in live fire, so I skipped offering to do it for my friends. But it was a fun experiment.
The internals are different between the 1.0 &2.0.
Right now, I have zero creep, so I'm thinking that if I tried to do something with the trigger bar, the trigger wouldn't reset/hold the striker.
I was looking at it this morning, and am not really seeing a good option for installing a set screw internally.
I'm starting to think the best option will almost have to be installing a set screw in to the trigger itself, like a good 1911.
-
19 minutes ago, WarrenZ said:
I saw a plastic peg behind the trigger on a custom shop gun not sure if there is enough meat there to tap and install a set screw (possibly from behind) or what is in the way as you drill the frame. I wouldnt want to try it without doing it on a bad frame first and probably would recommend doing out on a horizontal boring setup for precision.
I thought about that, and don’t like it for 2 reasons. One is that I don’t know if it will hold up, unless it’s solid plastic, and 2, I really don’t want to make any external modifications, in case I want to use it for IDPA. I was toying with the idea of drilling & tapping the sear, and installing a set screw, but, if it should start to move, I may not be able to drop the sear, and get the pistol apart.
-
Fibre optic sights don't work real well inside, but, I think they work really well outside
-
I have my 5", 2.0 set up for carry optics, and have an Apex .45 sear & Apex competition spring kit (less the striker spring), and have rounded off the striker block.
When I dry-fire it, I see the dot move. I played around with putting pieces of cardboard, behind the trigger, because I determined that the dot moving was due to over travel, and with no over travel, the dot isn't moving.
I emailed Apex, and asked them if they knew of any way to eliminate the overtravel, and their answer was that unlike the 1.0, there isn't a way to tune the trigger. They pretty much insisted that I SHOULD remove the competition springs because it COULD be unsafe. The trigger pull on my 2.0 is heavier than any of my 1.0s.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to reduce/eliminate overtravel on a 2.0?
My only thoughts are to install a set screw somewhere.
-
3 hours ago, Bullet56A said:
I really like the fault lines.
Once they ditch the vests it’ll be even better.
Maybe do away with the division round count and load full in a stock magazine.
Heck yeah!
It’s going to be fun!
I like the fault lines. As in USPSA, you can FEEL the line, rather than having to look for a painted line.
When they tell me I have to wear a cover garment, when shooting PCC, I think that’s just silly.
carry optics division
in IDPA Shooting
Posted
Yup