RH45
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Posts posted by RH45
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I went looking around, on Gray Guns website.
I now see what you are referring to.
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On 2/15/2018 at 2:10 AM, Rjracing said:
GrayGuns competition trigger releases today.... couldn't be more excited!!!
Is it internal parts, that would be legal in Production, and carry optics divisions??
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I wish Apex would make a kit for the Sig P320.
I just picked up an Xfive, and it seems to have some real potential, but, to me, the trigger is just nasty ?
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I picked up an X five, for carry optics.
I believe it's probably the most accurate, plastic pistol I've ever shot, when I wasn't jerking the trigger, but, as far as felt recoil, and muzzle jump go, I think my 5" , 2.0, M&P has less recoil and muzzle jump.
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2 hours ago, Rjracing said:
Im interested in getting into PCC later this season and do you guys that have owned and been competing with the Sig MPX still think its a good platform to build off of?
Last summer it was. A friend asked me if I had been reading up on the new Ruger. I told him NO, I’d spent 8 months, and about 4K, to get a pair of MPXs set up, and I wasn’t going to change now.
That said, the guy that corrupted me to switch to MPX, by letting me shoot his, is talking about getting a JP GMR15.
My first, was an Aero survival rifle. What sold me on it, was that you can screw off the hand guard, pull the barrel out, pull the bolt assy, like a shotgun for cleaning. Stock is never good enough, so I had NJK custom thread the barrel, install a brake, drill & tap the mag release, safety, and put Dawson, lo-pro buttons on, and install mercury, recoil reducers in the stock. It was after all of that, when I shot an MPX, and I was shocked that it was softer.
That said, recoil is subjective. I’m sure that there’s shooters that could use a.308 and beat me, because they actually practice.
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7 hours ago, mktt89 said:
Can you guys help me with specifics. Looking for very little pretravel and extremely short reset. Of course lowest trigger pull as possible. Please let me know the part numbers that so i can order. I have already polished. Thx
https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191838
Apex #100-060
You will use all of the parts, except the striker spring.
My 1.0s initally came in at 36 ounces, but, I think they are a little lighter, now that they have been shot a little.
I didn't measure the weight on my 2.0, but, it feels a tad heavier than my 1.0s.
Vast improvement over stock!!
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I tried a search, but, kept getting re directed to Kriss Vectors which use, what looks like Glock mags
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Are they cheaper than Sig mags?
Otherwise, why would you want to use a 25 round mag, when Sigs are 30?
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Regardless of how accurate my gun/load is, I can easily still get "mikes"
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O.K. So, it's a balmy 18 degrees here today, so I thought I would bump my load, and try it.
I used Speer, once-fired, nickle plated, +P cases that I'd already inspected, and measured, Winchester, small pistol primers, Zero 147 grain jhps, with 3.3 grains of VV310 behind them, at an O.A.L. of 1.14"
I loaded a new magazine, to 17 rounds, plus one in the chamber, to put as much upward pressure on the slide as possible, and while chronographing, after each shot, I would put another round, in the magazine, to keep it full. The gun didn't choke at all, but, the brass only went a couple of feet. I inspected the brass, and everything looks good.
Chrono results:
911
914
917
914
911
910
916
906
900
903
904
average of 909, 133.623pf which is just about where I'd want to be, for a major match.
The only reason I can think of, that the velocities were going down, towards the end was because I was loading, and shooting faster,and the barrel was getting warm, because my fingers were starting to get numb. Needless to say, the group at 25 yards was less than stellar!
I would expect, that if I would have been using yellow brass, my velocities would have been higher.
With this load, as well as with 9mm major loads, I would ONLY use once-fired brass, and would work up to it ONLY with brass of the same headstamp, and lot.
Maybe I'm overly cautious, but, I"ve seen other shooters blow up guns, and it's never pretty.
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My preferred bullet for open is a Zero 125 grain, .356 jhp.
No exposed lead in the back, and being .356, instead of .355, a little more accurate.
With that said, I've mostly changed to Precison Delta 124 grain jhps. They aren't as pretty as Zeors, or, quite as accurate, but, they will still shoot sub 2" groups at 50 yards, and the price is considerably less.
Over the years, I've tried several Montana Golds, and had to use more powder to make the same pf, and in MY guns, accuracy sucked.
Everybody seems to have a different opinion on what they deem as acceptable accuracy. For me, with an open gun, I'm not happy with any groups over an inch, at 25 yards.
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Sear coating?
in Sig
On 2/8/2018 at 9:21 AM, texasdawg said:I was polishing the internal parts and honing the sear and under a magnifier, it appears that the sear has a coating that was either chipping or wearing at the engagement point where the striker would slide over it and engage. I polished and honed the edges and the chipping" seemed to smooth out. I could not tell if its chromed or coated like a Cerakote or some something. Does anyone have any ideals as to what the coating is? Are the sear and striker only chromed or coated and not through hardened; does anyone know?
What model pistol are you referring to?
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It was suggested, by a commercial reloader for me to try 3.1 grains of VV310, behind a 147 grain jhp, as an accuracy load, and has made pf out of everything I've put them through.
I bought a new, 5" M&P, 2.0 and shot some off the bench, with an ISMI 13# recoil spring, but, when I went to shoot a match, with FULL magazines, it slowed the slide down enough that I was having issues.
There's no published data for VV310, behind a 147 grain hp.
Does anybody know if I can SAFELY bump up to 3.5 grains?
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After thinking about it, I’ve seen guys run 9mm, in.38 supercomp guns, and they fired because the extractor held the cartridge close enough to the breech face to allow the firing pin to strike the primer. So, even if the chamber is over sized, something is knocking the cartridge out, from under the extractor. Sounds like multiple issues
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1 hour ago, SergioSF said:
Hi everyone, I'm having issues with my MPX 8" pistol and am hoping y'all could help advise troubleshooting. Here's what's happening:
- lock the bolt back with charging handle and bolt lock lever.
- insert magazine
- release bolt with bolt release lever and the bolt slams forward as normal (I always chamber a round this way, not by loading from a closed bolt.)
- off safety, and pull trigger
- trigger goes click, but there's no bang. no shot.
When I pull the bolt back, the unfired round is still in the chamber. Weird because the extractor didn't pull the round out. The round's primer looks untouched.
I had my MPX 16" carbine with me, which is functioning normally, and I swapped BCGs and even swapped lowers, to no avail. It still just goes click. no shot, unfired round in the chamber, which doesn't extract (I have to point the gun up and let it fall out). I tried loading the mag with odd numbers and even number of rounds, to see if maybe it just didn't like loading on the left or the right, but that didn't make any difference.
If you swapped out the lower, and the bolt, that pretty much just leaves the barrel. A 9mm is SUPPOSED to headspace on the end of the case. If your chamber is cut too large, it's possible that the cartridge is going in too far. Are you trying factory ammo, or reloads? Most people don't measure their case length, before reloading it. Pistol brass gets shorter, every time you fire it.
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On 1/21/2018 at 10:18 AM, RH45 said:
Does anyone do a conversion, to make these in to a side charger.
I just shot a match yesterday, where 3 out of 4 stages were unloaded starts, and apparently, I'm a pussy, and don't pull the charging handle back all of the way, or, I didn't let it snap forward.
I finally figured out what was going on. Apparently, my mags, with the +10 extensions, even when downloaded to 38, push up on the bottom of the bolt, with too much force, slowing it enough that it doesn’t always go in to battery. The regular factory mags seem to work fine. I’m going to leave the big mags loaded for a while and see if that relaxes the springs a little.
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Full size Glocks, and M&P springs are interchangable
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8 minutes ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: If you like to push it that fast why not use 115's instead of the 124's? I ran the 115's with 3.6 grains Tite Group and it shoots softer but I have to chrono it. Thanks, Eric
I really don’t think either of mine would run 100% on that load, but, I doubt that there’s much dot movement with that load!
I know every barrel is different, but, if I had to guess, that load will come in about 120pf, because the MPX doesn’t have a full 16” barrel.
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19 minutes ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: Anyone have a good steel challenge load for their MPX? Going to try 115's with 3.6 grains of Tite Group. Thanks, Eric
I noticed that there’s a difference in what my 2 will run.
That said, with the one that works with the lightest loads, it would be right on the edge of reliability, but, shooting steel, with only 10 in the mag, you might be ok
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I had a friend's 320, that had Gray Guns trigger, and I did the pencil test, and launched it to the ceiling. None of the other striker-fired pistols I tried would do that. I believe a 320 will set off any primer you put in it.
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On 1/22/2018 at 8:03 AM, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: The Raptor charging handle I have makes charging the MPX way easier than the stock handle. It also has a block that keeps the handle up higher so it does to rub on the receiver. It is also easier to use with both hands. I plan on trying a Next Level one next if I can find them when they are on sale. Thanks, Eric
When I was shooting a lot of 3-gun, I broke a couple of charging handles, and switched to steel charging handles, and haven't broken one since.
I'm a little leery of buying an oversized, aluminum, charging handle. I doubt any of the manufacturers would warranty them, from doing a one-sided rack.
If somebody made one in steel, I'd order a pair.
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2 hours ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: Do you have a good charging handle like the Radian Raptor or the Next Level? They help a lot. Thanks, Eric
No, I still have the stock charging handles on both. I’m guessing that with the foam I have, over the tubes of the stock, it might have interfered.
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I have the collapsible/telescoping stock on both of mine, and I hated the way they felt. I was going to replace them, until I saw a picture of where someone put some black, foam, pipe insulation over the tubes. Now, they’re comfortable.
I don’t know about warranty, but, with the stock triggers, I thought they sucked, and replaced both with a Hyperfire 243g, which is the same as a 24C, except has a curved trigger
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Does anyone do a conversion, to make these in to a side charger.
I just shot a match yesterday, where 3 out of 4 stages were unloaded starts, and apparently, I'm a pussy, and don't pull the charging handle back all of the way, or, I didn't let it snap forward.
2.0 trigger job for competition Production & IDPA SSP legal
in S&W (M&P, etc)
Posted
I dug out my trigger gauge, and I was right, the 2.0 is heavier than my 1.0s. It came in at 40 ounces.
I guess that I need to do some polishing.
I couldn’t get a reading on my X-five because my trigger gauge only goes up to 72 ounces.