stick
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Posts posted by stick
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Start with the caliber you plan on loading most. As stated above, read the forums and all of your questions will be answered.
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Why post pictures of your stash? You're inviting trouble. Now everyone in America and beyond know what you have.
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First off I'm glad it worked out for you. I don't believe in single pass loading. I have a dedicated tool head with a full length sizing die and a Dillon 1500. It only take a few minutes to size and trim brass. I want the cases as uniform as possible.
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The 35 would be a logical choice. It will allow you to shoot major with the stock barrel and you can get a conversion barrel to shoot 9mm minor.
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2 hours ago, Nc1911 said:
Your barrel is the ultimate case gauge, do a plunk test.
^^THIS^^ ONLY your gun knows what it likes and doesn't. Always plunk test your ammo. What works for me and my gun, might now work for you. All the information given on OAL is just a reference. Do your homework and determine what your gun likes.
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Try the ETS and report back. Some people have good luck with the OEM Glock, but I never had. Even my FM lower like the ETS.
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Which Gen PSA lower is it? I have a gen 1, 2 & 3. Sometimes they can be finicky with Mags. I have one that hates OEM 33 round Glock mags, but it will run 17 round glock mags. It runs like a top with ETS mags. I had it back to the factory twice and they couldn't figure it out either. I know it's probably not what you want to hear, but try ETS mags.
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If the 9mm load will work in the 1911, then it will work in the Glock. The finicky gun is the 1911, not the Glock!
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10 minutes ago, Louro said:
No, If that is the problem how I will fix it? I push the handle forward pretty firm.
If you are loading on a XL 650, it's easy to check 2 things:
1) Raise the handle a few inches with your right hand. With you left hand tap on the shellplate. If the shellplate has any bounce or spring in it, then it's too loose. Tighten the shellplate until it's hard to index, then loosen 1/8 of a turn to ensure the shellplate indexes smoothly.
2) check the primer plunger to make sure it's screwed in all the way. I think it's a 9/16 wrench, but don't quote me on it.
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Part of becoming faster, is learning to see faster. Be thankful you got to shoot a match. We're here in Florida waiting on a hurricane.
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Don't overcrimp the bullets either by cranking down the screw. All you're looking to do is remove the bell and apply a light crimp.
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I would look into the Taccom and their adjustable recoil system or their delayed blowback recoil system. Honestly, recoil is so slight and it shouldn't be a factor.
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Seriously? you've never seen stepped brass or read comments on BE about Stepped Brass?
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22 hours ago, RaylanGivens said:
I keep several CMMG firing pins, springs, and cotter pins available... They fit the Tacom and Iron City bolts I have using until now.
The outside diameter of the CMMG spring is too large to fit in the FM9 bolt... The FM9 spring is a finer diameter wire and also wound closer to shaft of the firing pin so it will slide in fine... Seems like the FP hole in the FM9 bolt is smaller than other bolts.
Anyone else ever have this problem?
No. I have the CMMG Firing pins and Springs too. They fit my Taccom bolt and both of my PSA bolts.
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Finicky barrels are truly to blame. I have a 1:7 18" barrel that hates cheap 55gr factory. I couldn't get it to group for crap. The gun grouped better with my reloads. You need to determine what the gun is for. Do you need sub 1 moa groups? If I need precision, I'm not loading mixed brass and cheap plinking rounds. I would build 10 rounds by hand. Same headstamp, same length (measure them), same amount of powder measure the powder of each drop. make it the same!) same OAL. and shoot them. I know on my 650 with H335, I get slight variations in the powder drop.
FYI my load is 24.5gr H335 over a Everglades 55gr V1 bullet.
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Since the longest shot I take at the matches I shoot is 35 yards, I zero for 20 yards. I also use a 6moa dot for my USPSA PCC and a 12moa dot for my Steel Challenge PCC.
For USPSA, the distance doesn't really affect my holds at closer distances. I also tested my dot on 8" round plate from 15-20 yards so I know where my dot hits and what I need to hit the plate with the dot covering different parts of the plate. (If that makes sense?)
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+/- 0.05 is nothing to be concerned over. That could be a variety of factors from the AC blowing on the scale to electronics that are too close to the scale, to out of calibration, to something stuck on the platen. That's not enough variation to make a difference. Shoot away!
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It's personal preference. For me, It's where I have the best FOV and the dot is visible without any manipulation once the gun is mounted.
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I would get on a waiting list at some of the reputable companies and wait for them to come in. Some of the prices I've seen some online auctions are downright disgusting. $100 for 1k primers. The problem is...someone is always willing to pay.
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2 hours ago, aandabooks said:
Did you forget a 0 in that humble brag?
No, Don't get me wrong, I hate price gougers. Inevitably someone will pony up the money they are asking. Like many reloaders, I stock up when I can. I haven't shot a match this year. I'm sitting on the primers because sooner or later I'll be using them.
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It's supply and demand at its best. Don't like the prices, don't buy the product. Thankfully I'm still sitting on 8k primers
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20 hours ago, SteelCityShooter said:
Did you guys reporting the great trigger pulls with the Apex FSS triggers also install the Apex sear and Ultimate Striker Block? I've installed only the Apex sear and striker block while keeping the factory trigger and springs and they alone made a huge improvement over the factory trigger pulls. I wonder how much effect the Apex trigger itself can have.
I installed the competition springs.
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2 hours ago, Texaspaul said:
So your comment comes from possible light primer strikes?
Yes. If you have light springs and the firing pin doesn't hit the primer hard enough to ignite the primer...The gun no go bang.
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Did you check it with a magnet? It almost looks like steel cases that were plated with nickel.
Single pass reloading on a 650....
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
I have almost the same setup with multiple tool heads on my 650. The beauty of it is...you don't have to do all of it one sitting. I usually prep 300-400 rounds at a time (either size/clean or load). I have roughly 2k prepped cases. That way, when I need some it's not a day long process.