MoonJeong

Bold title... Yeap. I'm really excited on this build! So far the nicest open gun I've owned.

Mount is Arredondo modified by blackdog gunworks. Waiting for deltapoint 2

I will post a full review once I get time... but here is a photo shoot. Brad at Blackdog Gunworks is great - don't hesitate to contact him for your next build - I can give references if you want, just PM me.

I I'd some testing and tinkering today. The spot that breaks only has stress the first 1/2 inch as the slide starts to move back. That first 1/2 must be really violent. Therefore I'm stopping to use progressive springs. We'll see if this helps.

With the buff installed, slide was still being stoped by the frame

man! you are not having much CZ luck lately. hopefully it gets sorted more easily than the shadow problem you had. I guess this is cz second chance... Good thing these come with two barrels from factory, or I would have been out of luck for area six next weekend... This czechmate got me 1st C at TN and 3rd B at Alabama... Love czs... But like you said, I've had some bad luck... My p07 runs like a champ though (knock on wood) it's probably worth sending a PM to eerw with what happened. He did offer his help and being at CZ he is in a position to do something for you if it's possible. Cz told me send in the barrel and they would get a new out to me. Different experience this time!

I did some more thinking if why Tula would make the primers seat deeper... When I looked at the primer box, it said 223 small rifle... Then I thought, of course, if the primers seat deeper, you reduce the chances of slam fires in AR guns, for which these primers were made for! I guess everything has a rationale!

It's nothing I know for sure, just a theory I'm trying to test. So when the action cycles the slide travels rearward and at some point stops, then travels forward again; we all know the recoil spring (as well as the hammer spring and friction in the rest of the action) slows the slide down as it goes back and it also accelerates it on it's way forward, but what causes it to stop? I can imagine three possible scenarios: 1. The energy on the slide is completely exhausted before fully compressing the spring. 2. The slide compresses the spring until the coils touch (going solid) 3. The slide stops against the frame The first is certainly possible with a heavy enough recoil spring, but I don't think the pistol would cycle correctly if this was the case. From what I've read there seems to be mixed opinions whether #2 or #3 is the 'proper' way for a pistol to function. When using a buffer the whole idea is that the buffer absorbs the peak energy at the limit of slide tavel so it seems to me for the buffer to actually do anything the spring must go solid, this was the case with my factory TS buffer. It also makes sense to me that the recoil spring would wear out quickly in this situation. Once the spring is worn, the maximum slide energy as the spring goes solid should increase, were you wearing out buffers before the lug cracked? The spring going solid would also put a lot of pressure on the slide stop which would fit with the CZs' reputation for breaking slide stops. A test to see if #2 or #3 is the case: pull the side all the way to the rear and mark the slide and frame with pencil match lies, the repeat with the recoil spring removed and compare. It the marks line up the second time, the slide is stopping on the frame, if the slide goes back further the spring is going solid. My guess is that the spring was going solid with your setup, but I would love to know. Thanks. What I did was fit in a spring so it would not go solid. With the spring and guide rod assembled, it inky required 1 coil to be cut for that assembly to compress fully without the spring becoming the limit of the slide hitting the frame. Having said that, before I even cut coils, I wanted to see what was causing the slide to stop moving back in recoil... That way I would understand if the buffer was doing work. I used some chalk on the slide and frame where they are supposed to touch at recoil. From factory, the slide hits the area in the frame just forward if the trigger return spring housing.it,s not the spring going solid that stops this rearward motion. Then I installed the buffer and chalked again. The buffer does in fact reduce the cycle and does reduce the frame/slide impact. When the lug broke, the buffer was still in good shape (had about 1k rounds). What I don't understand is of the frame is what stops the slide, why would the slide stop be under stress, and also the barrel lower lug... For there to be stress there, the frame should not stop the slide... Puzzled.

man! you are not having much CZ luck lately. hopefully it gets sorted more easily than the shadow problem you had. I guess this is cz second chance... Good thing these come with two barrels from factory, or I would have been out of luck for area six next weekend... This czechmate got me 1st C at TN and 3rd B at Alabama... Love czs... But like you said, I've had some bad luck... My p07 runs like a champ though (knock on wood)

I was using a lighter recoil spring - 11 lbs, Wolff. I was also using a 13lb main spring. Pf was about 168. What do you mean by spring going solid? I was using a buffer. Can you share your insight?

My czechmate barrel broke after 5k rounds yesterday... Wonder if cz will cover under warranty....

what barrell and comp are you using in yours?

I want to skeletonize one heavily and see how long it lasts... The stock slide is not that bad, but there can be a competitive advantage given the slide is actually lighter than an equal 1911 slide. Besides. They seem hard to come by so having a second one will reduce down time...

Tulas will seat slightly deeper because they are shorter by about 8%. Look up my thread on Tula primers. You will need extended firing pin and Tulas will be just as good as rest Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wanted to get a backup upper for my czechmate.... Really only need a second slide since it comes with two barrels. Where can I get one and at what price?

That's a good question. Can it be a wear item given that it's somewhere were there is constant battering? I also did change the slide stop. What I didn't do is determine if it was a worn slide stop or front sight pin... Having said that, I did change the front sight when I bought the gun, but it did go over a year and more than 10k rounds before it became an issue... perhaps it was the slide stop wearing out... but the front sight roll pin did look pretty bad when I took it out, it was bent (not sure if that's whats supposed to happen).

Wow! This is great data everyone is posting here! One question, cci small pistol magnum and cci small rifle are said to be the same. Read that multiple places and also see in this post. However, in my testing, while no difference in load fps, accuracy of loads are very different. Also the measurement if fired primers are very different (initial post)... Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad Matt was able to help out. He knows his stuff. If the pin is not holding the bushing, it will move under the force of recoil. Wish you have taken the time to contact me. Pm is pretty easy. Stuart, didn't realize you worked for czc, as you can see I'm new around here. I'm sure there will be other chances for cz/czcustom to make it up as I strictly shoot czs in production and Open - I have 7 Cz guns and expanding. Hopefully nothing breaks or has problems, but if it does I'll PM you rather than calling customer support as they may not be the people that care about the customer (ironic). It wasn't just one call either... I guess in conclusion, I can't say support was disappointing, given you and Matt did provide guidance through this post. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everything is for sale for the right price, even me!

I would like to thank Matt Hopkins for helping me out. Along with him, many have suggested looking at the front sight. While that was ok, as I took pictures to send to Matt, I found the front sight roll pin was not tight. Given that this is what holds the bushing (would have assumed the bushing shouldn't move that easily), I replaced that along with the slide stop. The accuracy is back! Attached a photo shooting off hand at 20 yards - a little over an inch, which is probably closer to 1" at 25 yards from a good shooter. I also tried with the old barrel and the accuracy was just as good... I guess I now have two good barrels. If cz would have tried to help me out rather than saying it was normal wear and tear and that these guns were not made for that round count, I would have been a much happier customer. I wish I would have taken the name of that person! And shame on czcustom for not resolving the issue, selling me a second barrel, then trying to sell me the accushadow upgrade! Why would you do that to someone that purchased thousands from you and do free marketing for you... All I did was talk wonders of cz and czcustom! I'll be back shooting production as I am in love again with my shadow!

Can you share the contact for who did the grip and barrell?

I am trying silhouette from hs6 and dot moves a lot better... But then again, I also switched from 124 to 115... Also changed from 9lb recoil and 17 lb mainspring to 8lb progressive and 13 lb mainspring... After the changes, gun does not recoil and is flat... Dot barely moves and double tap test shows second shot is only 3-4 inches low when done at 20 yards... That's pretty damn good!

Tula are great here is what you need to do to make 100% reliable AND use light springs http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=192491

It's interesting to see that benchrest shooters love Tula for their low sd. In my major loads I find Tula to have the lowest sd also, always in single digits, regardless if it's hs6, silhouette, 3n38, or wim248. I must say I was perplexed at getting light strikes every so many rounds. People say they have thicker cups and are harder to ignite. This May or may not be true. However, the other night I found the reason for light strikes. The fix I found ignites 100% (at least in the last 1k rounds I've shot) . They are as reliable as any primer, but much more consistent. So what is the fix? The other night as I was filling dillon primer tubes I noticed something. Cci and federal primers will fill a tube with 100 primers. When I filled with Tula, the primer tube did not fill up, in fact I can fit 8 more primers for a total of 108. So that means that Tula primers are roughly 8% thinner! When I measure, cci and federal were 0.120 thick, while Tulsa where 1.116! Small difference, but big issue. If you have a dillon 1050, all you have to do is go for a deeper seating setting. On my 650, I had to remove all play in my shell plate, which means that the lever does not rotate as smoothly and primer alignment is not as easy, but by changing the position of primer indexing by about 0.5 mm cured this... And it also cured powder spillage! Or the third solution is to get an extended firing pin. Now the cool part, I use. 12Lb main spring and the cure above allows 100% ignition of Tula primers! So in effect, the cup IS NOT harder than any other primer! I'm a happy camper now knowing that the primer with the most consistency provides 100% reliability AND is the cheapest one out there! For all those people that have and problems with Tula, give the above fix a try ... You will be happy with the results!

What recoil spring model works? I've been using 8lb progressive made for browning hi power, but want to go to 7... None for high power though...