SirLoin

Hi twodownzero, legacy, mitchiepinoy, Kevin, and Duane, Thanks everyone, for all the advice! I had been shooting the Atlanta Arms .40 Minor ammo for IDPA matches over the past three months, and I always assumed it was 130 PF out of my G35 since they said it was 130 PF -- without considering that it's probably 140+ PF out of my G35 and 130 PF for shorter barrels. So, when I decided to make some soft loads for IDPA purposes and was able to get a chrono, I made some 130 PF loads and encountered this ejection problem -- and prematurely discounted that the cause of the problem was the recoil spring being too strong, thinking that if 130 PF Atlanta Arms ammo ejected fine, then the recoil spring couldn’t be the problem. After reassessing everything / everyone’s input, it has to be the 13-lb recoil spring being too strong for the 130 PF loads I made. (I stopped shooting from 15 years ago to a few months ago, so I'm going to blame old age for this brain fart.) I'll go ahead and plop in an 11-lb spring once it arrives and jack up my loads to 135 PF. I’ll let you guys know what happens. Interestingly enough, I’ve been looking for a reason to drop in a lighter striker spring (I had taken it out since I was getting light strikes with some lousy primers before), so I’ll probably do that now since the 11-lb recoil spring may tolerate it more than my 13-pounder. Cheers! x2 I shoot .40 minor with my G22 in production and keep my power factor around 135. 3.0G of Clays @ 1.135 w/ a 13lbs ismi spring

Hi Waktaz, The extractor looks fine - no chipping, no damage. It spits out other brass without problems. Thanks.

Hi Lugnut, Just finished case gauging the ammo, and they're not tight -- they drop in and leave as much space as my other ammo. I'm leaning towards getting a 9, 10 or an 11 pound spring now, in case that might fix the problem. Thanks again for the suggestion.

Hi JZ, Thanks for the advice. Your explanation makes sense. It does sound like my spring's too light for this load. I'll go ahead and order a lighter spring. Hopefully, it'll fix the problem. I'll let you know if it works. Cheers.

Hi Tattoo, Yep, we borrowed a chrono and have been using it to chrono our loads. There's no problem when I use hotter loads, whether I use the stock spring or 13/15 pound springs. However, Minor loads don't cycle with the stock spring -- and I prefer to shoot Minor for IDPA matches. S

Hi Lugnut, Appreciate the input. Nope, I didn't/don't cause gauge this latest batch of ammo. I didn't experience any feeding problems -- the rounds chambered easily enough whenever I racked the slide -- so I didn't think that was the problem. I see what you're saying though, and it's possible that they are tight and that a fully-racked slide/spring is only barely able to feed my ammo, and after firing, the brass expands/bulges to the point that it gets jammed in tight in the chamber. I'll go case gauge my ammo later today and let you know if they're tight in the chamber. Thanks!

Hi Tattoo, Thanks for the feedback. If it is the recoil spring being too light, then I'm thinking that the only way for that to happen would be if the following were true: 1) The Atlanta Arms 130 PF ammo I bought was chronoed by Atlanta Arms to be 130 PF when shot out of a shorter barrel than the 5.25-inch of my G35 2) When shot out of my G35's longer barrel, the Atlanta Arms ammo chronos at a higher power factor -- say, 140 or 150 PF 3) The 13-pound spring I use can cycle the 140-150 PF loads but is too weak to cycle the 130 PF loads that I chronoed out of my barrel I wasn't leaning towards this possibility since I had read other guys on these Forums use 13-pound springs with their G35s and 130 PF loads without problems. If a 13-pound spring is so weak that it won't cycle 90+% of my 130 PF rounds, then that means 13 pounds is SUPER weak, and I'd have to drop down to 9-10 pounds to fix this problem. When I trawled these Forums, I read of only one G35 owner who used an 11-pound spring (the lowest spring that I've found on websites that sell ISMI/Wolff springs for Glocks) -- and others were telling him that that was too weak already. With all this being said, I'm open to this possibility, so I'll go buy an 11-pound spring if nothing else works. Cheers.

Hi guys, I’ve recently loaded some .40 Minor rounds for my G35, and I’m having extractor problems, specifically: 1) the brass isn’t being extracted (link to a video that shows this: ) 2) almost all the brass have this dark carbon mark on one side (link to a video that shows this: ) These are the specs of this latest batch of handloads, and all of them just aren’t extracting properly: - 155-grain Berrys flat-point double-struck, 3.7 grains of Titegroup, OAL 1.125, CCI primer, ~132 power factor - 165-grain Berrys flat-point double-struck, 3.5 grains of Titegroup, OAL 1.125, CCI primer, ~133 power factor - 180-grain Berrys flat-point double-struck, 3.1 grains of Titegroup, OAL 1.125, CCI primer, ~130 power factor I have a G35 that’s all OEM except for the Vanek Trigger Kit and a 13-pound ISMI spring which I use for Minor loads. Has this happened to you before? Any ideas on what’s causing these and how to fix the issues? The brass not extracting/ejecting is the main problem I can’t figure out (I’m not too fussed about the carbon thing, though I suspect it might be a symptom of what’s causing the extraction/ejection problem.) I’ve thought of the following potential diagnoses for why the brass from this recent batch isn’t extracting, followed by why I think it’s not the cause: 1) Recoil spring is too light: Until now, I have never had any ejection/extractor problems with ~130 power factor loads with my 13-pound ISMI recoil spring that’s only a few months old. I even shot ~20 rounds of Atlanta Armos Minor ~130 PF ammo right after the problems above, and they extracted/ejected without any problems. If I use the 15-pound ISMI spring with 130 PF loads, I have extractor problems ~5% of the time. If I use the stock recoil spring (17 pounds), I have extractor problems ~10% of the time. But with this latest batch, over 90% of what I fired didn’t extract using a 13 pound spring, so I don’t think it’s the recoil spring. 2) Extractor is damaged: It doesn’t look damaged/chipped/bent. It also didn’t exhibit any problems extracting the Atlanta Arms Minor ammo. After shooting the Atlanta Arms Minor ammo, I even shot ~300 rounds of 150 PF ammo using a 13-pound ISMI spring, 15-pound ISMI spring, and the stock recoil spring -- all with no extractor / ejection problems. 3) Ejector port is screwy: I don’t think so for the reasons mentioned in 2) The only thing different is the handloads, so I’m thinking it’s the handloads. If it is the handload, what could be causing it? -The OAL? It’s 1.125, which is supposed to be an okay length. Also, from what I’ve read on these forums, the OAL would affect the feeding, not the extracting – and the ammo seems to feed okay. -The bullets? I’m using Berrys plated flat-points – the same ones that Atlanta Arms use, and I haven’t had problems with their ammo. Help! I’d appreciate any advice. Thanks!

Hi RePete, Good to hear we're in the same range. What bullets do you use? I assume you're using 180 gr bullets? Cheers.

Hi RH45, OAL is 1.125 Cheers. Those velocities seem pretty high. How short are you loading to??

Loaded some .40 S&W Minor ammo using Titegroup, chrono'ed it, and did some analyses. Figured I'd share it here in case folks would find it helpful. Info is in attached PDF file. Cheers. Titegroup Reload Data.pdf

I must have lucked out. I haven't had problems with my RSA. When I shoot Minor ammo, I do have to switch out to a lighter RSA, but if I shoot factory / Major ammo, the RSA has been working okay... so far! Good to know that they don't make you send in your existing RSA first thus leaving you with a non-functioning Glock... however by some horror stories I've heard, I guess having the old RSA was just like having a non-functioning Glock

Just called Aquila Firearms. They don't have G35s, whether Gen3 or Gen4. Price of G19/G22 Gen3 is P45,000, or $1,100 -- double what they cost here in the US, where they sell for ~$500. Still, that's a lot more reasonable than P100,000! I.m not sure what the price if a Glock is here because I don't see many. A CZ Shadow I looked at was about $1200.00 US.

Called this AM, couldn't get through, called in the PM and finally got someone, who said they were just getting killed with people calling in. They said they'd mail it out to me in the next 2-3 weeks, after which I'd send them the old RSA. Pretty easy to deal with. Just hope the new RSA gets in soon and actually works fine.

That's actually not bad. CZ Shadows run from $900-$1,100 here in the US, depending on the model. That $300 markup is still a LOT better than the crazy P100,000 price tag of the Glock that someone here posted -- a G35 here is only $500-600, or around P23,000! Does anyone else have any idea how much a G35 Gen 4 costs in Manila? If not, do you have a phone # of a few good gun stores? I want to call them myself and get a quote and find out if the P100,000 price is fair or just an outlier. I.m not sure what the price if a Glock is here because I don't see many. A CZ Shadow I looked at was about $1200.00 US.

Thanks for posting this! Is something wrong with the Gen 4 recoil spring assemblies or is just a not-functionally-different design change? Glock almost never admits to anything being wrong with their stuff, so hard to tell if something's really wrong or not.

IfightCrime, what holster do you use? Thanks.

I think one should consider a G35 even if one doesn't reload. I myself don’t reload anymore, since it takes too much time. If I want softer shooting ammo, I just buy it. The cheapest .40 ammo I’ve found is actually a 150 power factor load from BVAC (they’re the guys who make the cheapest brass ammo – BVAC ammo is almost always the cheapest ammo per round on sites like cheaperthandirt.com). If I want to go to 130 PF, I just buy Atlanta Arms ammo. Yes, it’s more expensive than reloading, but I only shoot the 130 PF ammo in matches and shoot the cheapest ammo when I practice, so it’s not bad at all.

It should work. Dave Sevigny has won the USPSA Limited with a G35, and the G35 is also legit for IPSC Production. That's actually the reason why I got a G35 -- I wanted to make Major and compete in IPSC and USPSA, while having the option to download to a soft power factor for IDPA.

Timawa, I understand most imported things in the Philippines are more expensive than in the US. But I'm asking why the Glock G35 is disproportionately more expensive. As to the cost of a permit, that's beside the point. Those are set costs that will be incurred regardless of the price you get the gun for. As to transferring the gun: assuming the gun stores in Manila sell to civilians and Law Enforcement alike, how would transferring it from an LEO matter? Thanks.

Timawa, I'm trying to get/buy a Glock gun in Manila, not just minor parts.

What??? That's insane. That's $2,500!!! You can buy a G35 for $500 here! Why is it so expensive there?? I mean, you can build a very good Limited gun (eg Para frame, barsto barrel, etc) from scratch for $2,500 in Manila, from what I understand. Glocks have become extremely popular (despite lousy ergonomics, trigger, etc) because they're great value guns: reliable AND affordable. If they're that expensive there, might as well build a 2011 frame gun from scratch.

I shoot a G35 Gen4 at IDPA matches here in the US, and I'd like to get a G35 Gen4 in Manila so I can shoot IPSC/IDPA matches there. Where's the best place in Manila to get a G35 Gen4? How much does it cost there? Thanks.

I agree with flexmoney. 1) Something is wrong with the slide of certain G35s. If nothing were wrong, they wouldn't be asking people to send it back to be replaced, fixed, “adjusted”, etc. 2) The cost –both in $ and in reputation – to fixing/replacing/adjusting all these slides is significant, and Glock, like any for-profit company, would not be expending such $ if the cost of NOT fixing the problem (e.g., guns breaking, injuries to people and subsequent, damage to reputation) were less than the costs of fixing them. 3) Glock has become the #1 handgun company because they have the #1 reputation for RELIABILITY: Glocks are known for always working, never jamming, working rain or shine, etc. Consequently, they are extremely protective of this reputation of reliability – once people start thinking you can’t rely on a Glock, why put up with the long trigger pull, the less than ideal, limp-wrist-intolerant ergonomics, etc. when there are tons of other guns out there? Thus, even if something is wrong with any of their guns, Glock has exerted the maximum effort to deny such things to protect their reputation for reliability. I am not saying that there has been a lot of defects with Glocks – I’m just saying that they’ve done their best to deny that any such defects (whether real or otherwise) exist because they have every reason to do so. Thus, it’s not surprising that they’re saying that nothing’s wrong with certain G35 slides. But in the same way, you shouldn’t necessarily believe them. 4) To give you an example, I called Glock several times last week to figure out why a Jaeger guide rod I got wouldn’t fit properly into my G35. Technical support kept insisting that the problem was with the guide rod and that I contact the manufacturer. It was only AFTER 15 minutes, after I had convinced the rep that the guide rod works fine in other G35s, that there’s nothing wrong with it, that I had spoken to Jaeger Products, etc. that the rep finally admitted that certain G35s had slides with different measurements (he said: “Well… we actually started milling the new slides differently with a counter-bore, so that’s why certain guide rods will fit differently in some G35s…”). If it took that long to get the rep to admit that certain slides were different – even though there wasn’t a defect issue, you can only imagine how much more difficult it would be to get them to admit that there’s something wrong with a Glock. Did that PR firm take you out to dinner? LOL Something is wrong with them, or they wouldn't want them back. That doesn't mean they are broken or dangerous. Hard to tell what it means without Glock actually coming out (officially) and saying...which they don't often seem to do.

I've spoken to both Glock and Megan. According to Glock: 1) There ARE problems with some G35 Gen 4 slides (e.g., those with RAE serial numbers) 2) You SHOULD send it back to Glock to be repaired / replaced The original posting is obviously not a "completely false post", as this Megan Harvey claims. Some would say she is doing a very risky spin job / committing fraudulent misrepresentation by suggesting / indicating that there isn't anything wrong with some Gen4 G35s. There obviously is a problem. In any case, I suggest always going directly to the company, which is in this case, Glock, to find out if you need to get your Glock fixed, instead of this third party.