ajroyer

I am looking at the box for my Pro Chrono Digital. It says: Competition Electronics, Inc 3469 Precision Dr. Rockford, IL 61109 The chrono itself does not have any markings.

I can hear your frustration. I live in Illinois (third most socialist state in the Union) and we have recently banned bottlerockets and firecrackers. I was irritated at the loss of freedom and then again at my neighbors that were totally ignoring the laws and firing them anyway. We don't have the issues of our state burning down, but I was not pleased at the number of rocket sticks and firecracker packaging that I had to pick out of my yard the next day. I hope that you let the city leaders know how jacked up they are. Good luck. Common sense is not contagious, so you are going to need the luck when trying to fix stupid.

I have always found that scotch or whiskey will improve my condition when I am under the weather. Good luck and get well.

Scrap it, would be my guess. If a ramp is laying in the road is it really theft? I found a bag of cash in the street one time a few years back. $900 plus. I turned it in to the cops and who knows what ever happened with it. I doubt the rightful owner ever saw it again. In general I have little to no faith in humanity. So you are not alone. Well, Everyone has had some very encouraging things to say and I appreciate the input. It does feel good to rant a bit and get this out of my head. On the note of whether or not it is theft, I say yes. Anytime you take anything that you did not purchase or receive permission to take, you are stealing. In this case, one ramp laying in the middle of a country road should make you think that the owner will be back when he realizes he can't unload his trailer. This person's first thought was more like "Hey, free stuff. I wonder if I can find a use for this." Most country roads around here have the same people driving them, and mostly from their house/farm to town. I commend you on turning in the bag o' cash. I would have done the same thing. Whether or not it made it to the owner doesn't bother me as much as the thought of keeping something that I did not earn, deserve, or have any other right to. As a firefighter and also as a Navy Chief I hold my integrity as tightly as I can. Honesty and integrity are the largest traits that are being eroded everywhere I look. Without a values system, we may as well be animals.

I lose a little faith and hope in humanity every day. Some days are worse, like today. My family has a farm that has gone to weeds. Of all my family, I am the only one that tries to clean it up and take care of it. I was out there today with a 20 yd dumpster, loading up the garbage that my cousins, uncle, and brother (and who knows whom else) have piled up out there. I thought 20 yds would be big enough until I started filling it. Luckily I can burn the wood and paper type stuff right there. My grandma is just heartboken at the way the place is run down. Problem is, I keep getting screwed when I try to help out there. Today it started raining and I had to quit. I happened to have my mower on a trailer and lost one of the ramps as I was leaving. Some folks followed me into town (about 15 miles) without trying to stop me or get my attention. Once I stopped and got out they stopped and mentioned that it fell out way back there. I went back and looked all over the place. In under 30 minutes someone had swooped up that single ramp. WHAT THE HELL ARE THEY GOING TO DO WITH ONE RAMP!? They could have moved it to the edge of the road instead of stealing it. A couple years ago I locked a generator in the shed at this same farm house. Someone went out there, broke in, and took it. Seriously, the place is run down and weeds everywhere. Who thinks to break in to a shed like that? I am guessing that they had help to get the generator in their truck. Just when I think it is just happening to me, I realize that we have to make sure that the firehouse is locked up before we leave on a call. It has been broken into twice in the last few years. How low do you have to be to steal from firemen? There is a great movie called "The Village." If I ever become a billionaire, I am building my own village in the middle of a reservation like that. It will be a new and great place to live. Everyone that is lucky enough to be invited will live in peace with freedom and liberty. No social programs. No "social justice." No degredation of society. Therefore, no need to steal from your neighbors, no need to hurt other people, no need to be selfish. I don't even have to create the framework, it used to exist. In fact, it used to be called AMERICA.

Is this happening with both bullet types, or just one? Are you crimping the rounds in your process? Are you trimming the cases?

What kind of gun are you shooting them from? What type of chamber does the gun have? Is it the same gun that you used to use when you reloaded 223, or a new one? If it is the same gun, or an older used one, have you cleaned the gas tube? My thought is that you are maybe sizing for NATO 5.56 dimensions and firing in a SAAMI spec chamber. Without proper headspace, you can see excessive pressures in the case. Check a few factory rounds that have been fired from your gun with a headspace gage. Set up your sizing die so that after sizing the cases are about .004 smaller. This will allow room for the case to expand in your gun, without excessively working the brass. Also, the Lyman reloading manual states that if you use less than the minimum recommended charge of powder that you can actually see increased pressures (they actually say "dangerously high" page 119 of the 49th ed). They suggest a starting load of 23gr of 4064 for 55gr bullet and 22.2 gr with 77gr bullet. I also wonder if the gun has had a few thousand rounds through it, or a bunch of blanks, or a bunch of dirty powder? If the gas tube is starting to get buildup, it will increase the pressures in the chamber slightly. One way to rule this out (other than cleaning) would be to go back to your DOPE book and check your zero. If the gun used to shoot right on at your zero and now the same zero is hitting high, it could be build up in the gas tube. That pressure has to go somewhere and the easiest path is pushing the bullet, which increases velocity. Speaking of which, what is the velocity of these rounds when you shoot? Do you have a chronograph to check?

Good reason why you should use minimum load data. For plinking 100 yards or less there is no need for anything other than min load. Also that means worries about pressure are much less as well as variances in cases due to mixed brass. Thank you for another vote for safety. I think that everyone agrees that the brass doesn't have as much to do with accuracy, as far as brand is concerned. Other than even neck tension, it is just a container. The original post was if it is safe and ok to use mixed brass. So far, the replies have concentrated on, "yeah, I can be accurate with it." While this is true, the OP needs to give us info on what he is doing with his mixed brass. (i.e. working up target loads, hunting loads, plinking....) Even in the event that all the mixed brass has been only fired from his gun and all the cases have been fired the same number of times, it should be pointed out that each brand of brass has variations from lot to lot. That means that even if I only buy Lake City brass, the lots from different years may have different characteristics. If I have a bunch of LC08 and LC09, one may start to fail before the other for various reasons. If the LC09 brass had 10% of the cases showing signs of failure, and none of the LC08 did, would you want to throw out all the LC08 with the LC09? This is why so many people that reload sort by brand, headstamp (i.e. lot number), number of firings, and whether it is fired from their gun or not. By the way, OP, remember that if the mixed brass that you are using is from another person's gun (like range brass) that the brass has been expanded to fit their chamber. It will be worked a little extra to size it for your chamber. You also don't know if they turned the necks for a bolt gun or fired five times and left it cause they aren't reloading past that point, etc.

correct. see the links below for examples. and remember, the google search function is your friend. http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/ammo-can/128083-9mm-crimped-primers.html http://squibloads.wordpress.com/reloading/get-the-crimp-out/ http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=16&t=448194 Thanks to all. These links had great pics. That is what I needed to help figure this out.

So you are saying that there are two types of primer crimps? This is one and the other is concentric?

So, I have been reading about military brass having crimped in primers. The word is, if there is a ring around the primer, it is crimped. Problem is they all look the same to me. Now, I just got some brass from a guy at the range. It has three crimps spaced around the primer. Is this different from military crimp or is this what the crimp actually is? Anyone know?

Sounds dangerous to me. Military brass has thicker case walls than commercial, and the different volumes in the cases will cause different pressures. The biggest concern I have personally is being able to monitor signs of case failure. For example, if primers are starting to back out of FC brass, does that mean that the LC brass is also at the end of it's life? Are you keeping track of how many times the cases are being fired and checking each for case head separation, overpressure, and neck splitting? I am sure that these guys that plink are checking each case for signs of failure, but be careful. It's a question of safety, not accuracy.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/23630/catid/6/AT_500_Auto_Eject_System It's listed under upgrades. Why the auto primer upgrade though? Doesn't the 550 prime in one of the stages?

I have the CE ProChrono Digital ordered now. Hopefully be in this week. I bought a cheap digital caliper at Lowes and it seems to work ok. I have looked at saving up and buying a Giraud trimmer in the future. That or the RCBS trimmer with the trim/chamfer/debur three way cutter. Most people say that you trim once and reload 3 to 5 times before the next trimming. I appreciate the feedback on downsizing accessories. I think that I may start simple and add up later if I really feel the need. I'll get the 550 first and see how it works on everything I want to do. If I'm really frustrated later I can always look at grabbing a single stage and precise powder throws to fine tune. I don't bench rest shoot and the target is bigger than one moa, so I think I'll be good. I like the idea of multiple powder measures for the 550 though. I will have at least two powders when it's all said and done.

You guys bring up some interesting thoughts. I have not used a progressive press, so I am not sure how the powder metering works in it. I thought that a single stage would let me throw some specific charges and work up easier than a progressive. Also, I had just assumed that I should go ahead and get it all now instead of want it later. If you guys think it is unnecessary for the extra goodies, is there anything that you would say is necessary up front? My wife will be happy to hear that the cost has gone down.

I have not shot the "sport" version, but a good friend of mine has the regular MP15 that he uses for three gun. He put an EOTECH on it, which kind of limits him past 100yds. I have shot it under 100yds, and the regular version is pretty nice. Similar to my RRA Entry Tactical. Now to the real business. If you don't know what a gas system is, then you should do some reading to learn about the different guns and make sure you know what you want. There are several resources online that show you a slow version of what happens when you pull the trigger on an AR15 style gun. A good place to start is the Bushmaster website. Scroll over the "World of Bushmaster" at the top and select "Anatomy of a Bushmaster." This will take you to a page that lets you select what parts you want to view. If you click all the circles for split, you can see the whole operation. As you start to figure it out you can make parts transparent or hidden to see better detail. Here's my recommendation: I have a Rock River Arms Entry Tactical with Iron Sights on the Tactical Carry Handle. The lower receiver has RRA two-stage trigger which I REALY like. I can hit the target out to 200 yds with 55gr FMJ rounds. (Thats the SR target for high power that I practice with) I am confident in my guns ability to really drive tacks, but as another guy said I am limited by the shorter sight radius. I also don't practice as much as I should, which is the only way to actually get accurate with any weapon. I borrow a military competition rifle for distance shooting and the 20" barrel with extended sight radius (and smaller rear aperture) really help a lot with precision. I am actually looking to buy my own competition rifle for the help. To answer your question about moving the sights, the easy answer is no. These guns have gas tubes that are integrated into the front sight system. The tubes and handguards are specific lengths based on the barrel length. The shorter 16" barrels are carbines. Now, with some money and a little smithing you could probably find a low profile gas block, switch out your carbine front sight with it, get an after market sight and mount it further down the barrel. Of course, your barrel is only 16" long so you won't gain much by doing that AND you will have added a big hunk of metal to the barrel that will affect the barrel harmonics and possibly make your rifle LESS ACCURATE! Do yourself a favor go to a match or local range to find people with different brands of AR15. I am sure that if you explain your situation they will let you send a few rounds down range. Just make sure that you pay attention to the details like balance, feel, comfort, how the trigger pulls, and sight picture. Don't just shoot it and get wrapped up in the target or thrill of a new gun! Also take the time to ask the owner about the gun. A lot of times you will find that they have some expensive after-market items like triggers or bolt carrier groups. Listen to their advice and you will end up with an investment that you are happy with.

So, the time is soon approaching. I have been researching all about reloading and I am ready to make a purchase. I have "narrowed" it down to three self-assembled packages. I was wondering what you all thought about my choices and hope that this helps others that are in my situation as well. Some things that went into my choices: high quality, affordable price, ease of use for beginner, functions that I will want when I get more experience. OPTION 1 Lyman 2500 Pro Mag Auto Flo Tumbler --- Corn Cob Media, Walnut Media, Brass Polish RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Kit --- Has Press, Scale, Primer Tool, Chamfer/Debur, Load Tray, Lube pad, Wrenches, Powder Measure, Powder Funnel, and Speer Manual Redding Dies --- National Match Die Set for .223 military competition and Conventional Titanium Carbide dies for 9mm, 38/357, and 45 Redding Model 1400-XT trimmer lathe Sierra Infinity V6 software and Manual, Hornady 8th edition, Lyman 49th edition OPTION 2 Lyman 2500 Pro Mag Auto Flo Tumbler ---Corn Cob Media, Walnut Media, Brass Polish Redding Big Boss Press Redding Versa Pak --- Scale, Powder Trickler, Powder Measure, Powder Funnel, Chamfer/Debur, Load Tray, Lube Pad, Brushes, 1400 XT Case Trimmer Redding Dies --- National Match Die Set for .223 military competition and Conventional Titanium Carbide dies for 9mm, 38/357, and 45 Sierra Infinity V6 software and Manual, Hornady 8th edition, Lyman 49th edition OPTION 3 Lyman 2500 Pro Mag Auto Flo Tumbler --- Corn Cob Media, Walnut Media, Brass Polish Dillon RL550B --- Also:Instructional DVDs, Strong Mount, Bullet Tray, Roller Handle, Tool Tray, Case Bin, Rifle Dies, D-Terminator Electronic Scale,Extra Primer Pickup tubes, Bullet Puller, Debur Tool Redding 1400 XT Trimmer Redding Dies --- National Match Die Set for .223 military competition and Pro Series Titanium Carbide dies for 9mm, 38/357, and 45 **Redding Big Boss Single Stage Press **Redding Match Grade Powder Measure BR3 Sierra Infinity V6 software and Manual, Hornady 8th edition, Lyman 49th edition Let's assume that all three options are available at similar prices, with the exception that option 3 is a little more because I have to buy a single stage press and powder measure with option 3, if I want to work up loads. Comparing these choices would you all say that I am on the right track? Am I forgetting anything? Which option would you pick if you were in my place? I am concerned that I am jumping into reloading with unrealistic expectations by starting at option 3 with a progressive reloader.

I am pretty confused by all the conflicting reviews I am reading. This site and others say that the CED M2 is the ultimate in chrony's, but some of the reviews here and on Midway say that it is crap. I was considering the Shooting Chrony Alpha Master Kit for cost and function when I came across this thread. Now I could argue the same things for and against both models. Does anyone have a long history with these models so that I know I am getting a qood product? I have also read the reviews on the Competition Electronics ProChorno Digital and all but 2 were top notch. This seems like the best quality and middle of the road price, but I don't see the remote readout. Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison over time?

I think you have to be specific on what you want to do with the dies. Most of the companies call the dies "competition" if they put a micrometer on top to adjust the seating depth very precisely. The Redding Catalogue and all of the other die companies have regular dies (without micrometers) that are affordable. If you look at the pistol dies, they start "conventional titanium carbide" and don't have a micrometer. Then they make a change to the crimp die and call it "pro series" so they can market it to progressive reloaders. If you are picky about the details, they then add a micrometer to the seating die and call it "pro series competition." It is similar with their rifle dies. Their "series A" dies are pretty affordable, then they move to a "bushing die" which gives more control on the sizing, then up to "competition" which adds the micrometer. In between all this, you have to know all the adjectives that they use, like "National Match," "Neck," "Full Length," and "Small Base." For what it is worth, RCBS, Hornady, Lee, etc all play the same name game with their stuff. Depending on how picky you are with the minute details, they all work the same way and the bullets still go bang. I am looking at the micrometer in the National Match for rifle, because I want to know that the seating depth is EXACTLY what I need for my rifle. I am not quite as picky on my pistol rounds, so the plain titanium carbide set will work. Please do yourself a favor and call the company. Redding was VERY helpful on the phone, and RCBS will give you some info if you know what to ask.

I am also new to reloading and doing the research. I would add to the above posts that you need to determine what you are shooting for. If you are trying to be ultra-precise, you will need to turn the necks and trim them before you worry about sizing them. If you are trying to be competitive at high-power matches, turning the necks is not the way to go (from what I am seeing). Trimming may help though. I am also wondering if you checked your brass for signs of separation? You don't want to load brass that is starting to develop cracks in the web, or showing other signs of failure. If your brass is free from defect, have you cleaned the primer pockets? A lot of research and forum time really helps with this process. Good luck.

DISCLAIMER: I am a newbie to reloading I am just now getting ready to order my reloading equipment, and have been asking this same question. I called Redding and RCBS today to get more info on what I should be buying to meet my needs. The Redding guy told me that for high power competition in a semi-auto platform I would be best served with the National Match Die Set for my .223. He said that it full sizes the case, which is required for semi-autos, and also has a micrometer seating die. It should work from 55gr to 77gr. He said that there is a special seat for VLD bullets, but I won't need that personally. The RCBS website says that the small base sizer will work for a few firings, but that a full length sizer will eventually be needed. The advantage of the small base die seems to be less working of the brass once you have trimmed it to proper length. The catch is, I have been looking at single stage presses. The Redding rep said that the competition and pro-series die sets are specifically made for progressive presses. The one thing that I know for sure now, is that the neck sizers are for bolt guns only. A friend of mine just turned me on to this site, and I can see where he got his influence for the Dillon 550. I may go that route in the future, but for now I can't pass up the money savings of the RCBS kits (or my recently acquired discount with Redding: door prize at an event, I am not a rep) If anyone can shed more light on what I have been told, please let me know. I have a Redding catalogue, Sinclair catalogue, and Midway catalogue in front of me and my head is spinning.