Dragon11

I don't know if this will help but I had a similiar problem with my 625-8. My original sear sring broke and it was installed from the factory wrong. I replaced it several times, and they broke again. Learned later I was putting pre MIM sear springs in. Either way, I fixed it by finally putting in the right sear spring. As I said, the first time it broke it was from the factory. Would pull the trigger, and just before lock up I would feel like the hammer let go, or it broke early. Was also getting off center or edge primer strikes. Don't know if this will help, just trying to help you problem solve.

After some thought I would like to make an addition to my last post. Hopalong, you don't need to answer about still having the memphis match in November for 2013, I know you will. And lastly, I plan on attending both matches whether they let me or not. Its kind of like the fan at football games who jumps out of the stands and runs around the field in the middle of the game, that is eventually tackled by security gaurds and police. Only I will still have my clothes on, a guys got to have some standards!

I hope the plan is to still run the Memphis Match in 2013. I can think of nothing better then shooting the revolver nationals in May, and then the memphis match in November, that would make for a great year. As for the slots issue and how the revo nationals will be run, I'll just plan on going and am not going to worry about it. Ed Savard

Who put the ball detents in for you guys. Was it a gunsmith or a machinist.

Here's a crazy question. I was thinking of either removing the locking bolt pin, or reducing the weight of the spring for the pin in my 625. I think I have the right name for this, its the pin in the lug under the barrel that helps retain the extractor push rod. I noticed the extractor rod was catching on the pin, making me have to push really hard on the cylinder latch, to get the cylinder to release. I know the cylinder is retained at two ends, at the end of the push/extractor rod, and by the pin which is in the middle of the ratchet. If I remove the pin in the lug, or at the end of the extractor rod, will the cylinder still stay latched at the other end while firing. I noticed on some of the competition revolvers it seems the extractor rod is "floating" under the barrel, and doesn't seem to have a pin, under the barrel at the end of the rod. I was just brainstorming and was wanting advice on the topic.

I normally shoot revolver, but have a Gen 3 Glock 22, and for the winter might shoot it in production. I currently use Bayou bullets in 45 ACP and want to buy Bayou Bullets in 40 cal for shooting my Glock 22 40 in production. Has anyone experienced leading issues with the Bayou Bullets in the factory Glock 22 Barrels.

Where did you find the barrels?

I have a question since we're talking about barrels. I'm just curious if anybody knows what type of barrel John Bagakis has on his 627 or 625. I noticed that it doesn't look like there is a lug on the bottom of the barrel. And if there isn't a lug, what does the ejector rod connect to on the end if anything?

I talked to North Mountain today and they sell the big butt rubber grips for the square butt. So I could either modify it like Carmoney suggested or just get the appropriate grip. I really like the Bayou bullets, would like to see if they work first, and then will look at the option of switching to jacketed if I have to. I started looking for a 25-2 and found a couple on Gunbroker today. If I can find one locally I'll do that first and then get one from Gunbroker or somewhere else. As always I appreciate all the help. Will keep you posted.

I know you said cast but have you seen any problems with the coated bullets like the Bayou, its what I currently use. Also, I believe the 25-2 is a square but, does Hogue make the rubber big but grips to fit the square but, I have seen them for the round but frames, but wasn't sure of the square buts, if that is the case for the 25-2.

One good thing and one bad thing. The good thing is that I think thats a good idea and would enjoy shooting a 25-2. The bad thing is that now I have to tell Phil Griggs he was right all along, and will never me able to live with him ever again, he's already an annoying dude! Thanks for the advice Mike, that honestly sounds like a winning plan.

So here is my next question. I am open to options on the type of 6 inch barrel I well get. However, I like the diameters and shape of the stock full lug barrels on the 625's with the 4 and 5 barrels. Is it possible to find a 6 inch thats the same as the 4 and 5s, and if not, can someone make it like that. I am a little concerned with the price of having all that machine work done also. And lastly, has anyone ever heard of getting 629 44 magnum barrel in a 6 inch, and converting it to a 45 acp for my 625's. I know there is alot of different angles I am working here, but I just want to look at al of my options before I do this.

www.kjmagnets.com is where I bought the magnets for my moonclip holder. Go to the neodymium ring magnets section and there are lots of sizes and thicknesses, pre-drilled and counter sunk for screws.

I'm wanting to get a six inch barrel for my 625. Didn't know of many options on where to buy one so I could get it installed on my current four inch 625. Want a full lug or slab sided barrel and will eventually get two of them so that both of my guns are set up the same. Any ideas on where to browse websites or where to buy one would be great.

I think for now I'll stick with the Hogue. I rounded the edges on mine also using a Dremmel tool. I also filed lines across the horizontal lines of the face of it, giving it aggressive checkering. The only release I haven't tried yet was the Califoria Competion works. Maybe down the road I'll give it a try.

I currently reload left handed, ejecting the shells out with my left hand being a right handed shooter. I am using a Hogue extended cylinder latch and was interested in what everybody else was using. I don't mind the Hogue release, but I find at times my thumb catches on the side of it every once in a while. I am happy with how I reload, was just wondering if there were different options out there besides the original latch or the Hogue. Any ideas?

Got the parts in and it went in much easier then the longer sear spring. Guns working great. Almost feel like I know what I'm doing. OK maybe not, but I at least I got a small boost of confidence. Thought you guys might want to know, thanks for the help.

I ordered new sear springs today for MIM hammer. Should have them in a couple of days. It didn't seem normal to me that they would break, and am positive the ones that broke before did so because of being kinked. I appreciate the help everyone has given. I have to admit, I was getting frustrated and thought I was doing something wrong. I was getting to the point didn't want to dryfire anymore because I thought I was breaking my guns. Was hoping that wasn't the case, because its something I enjoy doing, I enjoy problem solving. At any rate, will let you know how the installation goes.

The springs I have bought to replace them were purchased from Brownells. I know that they are the same length as the the spring in my 625-2. My gun broke in the middle of The Ohio Championship yesterday, and while looking at it with a friend, he believed my replacement spring was to long, but didn't know for sure. Nowt hat you have said that, it totally makes sense and I wished I was smart enough to pick up on it myslef. I think they broke in the past because the spring was to long, and was being squeezed between the sear and the hammer wall. I know I dryfire alot, but didn't think that would be the cause of a sear spring breaking. At any rate, will make some calls tomorrow to get the right length, and work on putting it in. I hate to have someone else fix the gun for me when its such a small part to replace. Have had some other problems with my 625-2, but I'll leave that story for another time. At any rate thanks for responding you guys have helped alot.

This is my first post on the forum. This is my second season shooting revolver in USPSA. I currently have a 625-8 and a 625-2. Here is my issue. I dryfire alot and in my 625-8 I have now broken three sear springs. I have played around with changing the sear spring in my 625-2, and with the pin holding in the sear, I have had no problems doing this. The sear hammer assembly in my 625-8 is much different and I have not been successful in changing the spring. The sear drops in from the side of the hammer and I can't get the spring to squeeze in between the frame of the hammer and the sear. I end up kinking the spring and breaking it. I need expertise with putting the spring in. I have heard dryfiring is hard on revolvers, but don't understand why the sear spring would be breaking this much. I am looking for any help that I can get as I am always looking for ways to prevent problems in the future and to also be able to fix gun problems myself. My ears and mind are open.