gr7070

Is possible. I will adjust them slightly.

I don't think this is the issue.

This might be an option. However, I shoot idpa and very rarely reload when I'm not at slide lock. I'll keep an eye on this, but it's not too likely.

There isn't much wiggle room, but it appears this isn't an issue.

I've checked; nothing projecting.

I don't clean the gun that often, but I'm sure I've had this problem with it clean.

Wow! I shouldn't be surprised that y'all have come up with a bunch of really good options to look into. Thanks! I'm not sure if these mags have the lip you're talking about. They're essentially the only ones I use and not really familiar with others. They are the brands that Springfield sells. Everything definitely needs to be cleaned (been a handful of matches), but I believe it does this clean as well. It doesn't happen on every reload, so it could be an issue with a single magazine. Will look at all the potential issues posted. Please post any others, I'll definitely explore them.

I shoot a single stack, Springfield Loaded, 9mm, 9-rd, Metalform magazines. During matches they commonly don't eject smoothly; I'll even pull them out at times as they haven't cleared the well by the time I'm ready to load them.. I'm curious if this is a mechanical issue, or a technique issue (gun not vertical or light pressure on eject button, other?). Any thoughts, suggestions, common issues, etc.?

I now suspect this may be the problem! I haven't analyzed my reload, but this may be a greater likelihood now that it's been brought up. Thanks! I'm probably at the point where I'm a decent enough shooter that I need to start looking at all the little details to improve significantly. Oh, and then need to practice to put those changes into use! ;-)

Thanks! The last couple matches I've had a few reloads where I've lost a round. It *seems* like I'm pulling one round out of the cylinder with the speedloader. No clue if that's truly what's happening, but I'm guessing the Bubberized would help that or fix it altogether. What are my options for loading blocks? I shoot IDPA mostly so I'd only need a 4x 6-rounds in 38 Spl. block.

So, do they? How much can they be cut down and not require a loading block? Is that distance fr enough to be effective, or is it a waste of time to only go this far?

What are my options for a wider rear sight blade on a S&W 686. I know of the Weigand, but would really just prefer a typical blade with a wider cut. Any other options out there for me? Thanks in advance!

I have three Comp-tacs that do the job well. I recommend them.

How many of the yes votes all ready shoot IDPA? Probably should have asked them to not vote. FWIW I have a hard time seeing how drawing a fraction of USPSA shooters, who themselves are a tiny, tiny fraction of the gun owning population, would make that much of a difference in IDPA-revolver population. Even those that would come over all ready have preference for USPSA. Every bit helps, but not much in this case. Of course, we're only talking about revising a bbl length rule which I have no feelings on anyway. As for the founding principals a 5" N-frame is a large gun. The 4" L-frame is bigger than a full-sized 1911; the 5" N is a monster and that's looking at my tapered bbl profile 5" N-frame. The full lug is just that much bigger, even if just a little.

This is the answer! Whether you reload slower than 3 seconds is only a factor when engage target #4 twice, and only that target. If you miss once on target 1, 2, or 3 you still have no idea if you're going to need to reload or not. Skipping to the stop plate is the only way to knowingly save you from a reload - so you don't miss a second time. Thus one could only knowingly make the decision after a miss on #4 to skip ahead. However, you can't really skip to the stop plate after engaging target #1 twice (or target #2 or #3) as you'll lose too much time. Well, actually you could if you knew your reload was slower than 9 seconds. In summary: Sub-3 second reload blast away; reload as needed. Greater than 3-second reload, skip to stop plate if first miss occurs on target #4. Greater than 3-second reload, if one miss occurs on targets 1-3 keep shooting. Reload if you miss a second time anywhere along the way, and complete string. Edit: And really, below is the best answer.

Thanks all!

Can y'all recommend a decent red dot at a lower price? I'd like to pick something up that I can mount on a Ruger MkIII and swap to a S&W 627 should I feel like it. Any suggestions? Anything that this complete newb to optics should know before wading in? Thanks in advance!

Steel Challenge is a great place for the 627! If your club allows you to shoot two guns at a match it allows for a lot of trigger time when combined with the 617. That's a lot of cheap entertainment!

I've created a long and meandering thread. I've got two guns I'm fiddling with. The 617 I'm changing the front sight and swapping out the rear blade as the SDM sight is too tall. If I new about Tool Guy's sights I probably wouldn't have bothered, but I'm too far down that road. ;-) Thanks y'all.

Thanks again guys. So it sounds like either one of these pins would work if my 627 is bent - which I suspect it is. I was wondering how necessary this special tool would be.

Yep. You may be mixing into the confusion a Canadian issue that a 4" revolver bbl is illegal in Canada. The 4.2" bbl that Ruger makes meets the legal minimum in Canada. I've seen inventory pages that suggests S&W now makes a legal 4.2" bbl for sale in Canada???

Brownells doesn't have pics, so I was hoping I could get someone to confirm these for me before I waste shipping on them Is this the pin I'd need for the interchangable front sight on the 627? Sight-Pivot-Pin-Front It says 686 in the description, so not sure if this will be a roll pin, and whether a roll pin is an option for the classic 627 front sight. I believe I'd prefer a solid pin??? Is this the front sight pin needed for the 617? Sight-Pin-Front-SS How likely is it I'll need a new pin? Can I just reuse the existing factory roll pin it came with? Or will it get buggered up pushing it out? As always, much thanks in advance!

Understood, I plan to. I've been unable to push it in the opposite direction due to it being misaligned. If I take it out, and it's not bent, I presume I can push it in easier with the rounded end first??? That I hadn't thought of. Good idea.

I could leave the 627 front pin alone. I've put a few hundred rounds through it and no apparent issues with the pin - it hasn't moved and i haven't lost my sight. I will say it's not real easy to swap sights on it, though not that I intend to much - I like the SDM FO. I attribute some of that difficulty with the pin sitting slightly rearward because it's not aligned properly??? But I figured since I would be getting a punch and messing with my 617 that i could pop this pin out and replace it or put it in correctly.

Here's pics of the 627 front sight pin. Yes the cylinder was open when I took these! ;-) The left side has no pin visible (actually you can see the end of the pin deep inside the hole), as it's not in the left half of the frame, only the right half of the frame holds the pin. The pin sticks out quite a bit on the right side. You can see the disparity a little better head on. And the telltale sign, you can see light comning in from the left side showing that the pin truly isn't in that portion of the frame. And just because, here's a pic of my 617 and the roll pin, vs. the solid pin on my 627. Sounds like the solid pin is the better buy, maybe???