gr7070

As I understand it, most of y'all prefer a 5" gun, or possibly longer, for competition. I shoot a 4" 686 in IDPA and a 4" 617 in Steel Challenge, and like them both quite a bit. I'm looking to get a 627 for Steel Challenge and other fun, and thought I'd prefer the 4", but may pursue a 5" buy. So why do y'all prefer the 5"? The balance, the sight radius? What else is there?

Much appreciated, all!! I'll take it apart and take a look at it. If need be I'll ship it off to S&W. I do have some blue (the liquid) loctite I use on my guns from time to time.. It's actually Uncle Mike's Gun-Tite from Loctite. It has green text on the bottle and model No. 1631. It's "removable threadlocker with ordinary tools". Thank you all for the help. I'll let y'all know what I find when I take it apart.

Thanks gentlemen! I, too, didn't think loctite would be desired there. However, it's sounding like it might be the way to go for my issue. I've got one finicky chamber that sticks a little - cases don't always seat nicely and sometimes leave one up when I go to close, even when clean as can be and off the clock. Should I wait to loctite the ejector rod until after I've figured out what to do with it? I may end up sending it out to get the one chamber enlarged a hair. I'm guessing I won't want the rod loctited if I'm going to do that. Thoughts???

The ejector rod on my 686-6 won't stay tightened. It loosens frequently requiring me to tighten it down after a couple stages. If I don't tighten now and again it interferes with opening the cylinder. If I tighten it greatly to ensure it doesn't loosen the ejector rod cannot be pushed without a lot of effort. It seems there's no middle ground. I can't find the sweet spot of tight enough to stay indefinitely and not too tight to move eject nicely. Is this common? Any suggestions? Is this a problem S&W can/should/would fix under warranty?

I'm sure that would help, but I suspect it goes well beyond knowledge and experience. I think revolvers have an image problem. There's nothing cool about a revolver. Until one really uses one. Then it's all cool. I'm sure their popularity could improve greatly. Someday we may see double or triple the participation to, say, 20%. However, in the end they're still going to be the red-headed stepchild. ???

Frankly, because no one would attend. People don't shoot revolvers. Yes, yes, I know, you do; I do. We're not enough to fill classes to make it anyone's worthwhile. Yes, yes, I know, lots of folks own at least a J frame. Sure, but far more own autos, and those who do own Js, they don't actual shoot them anyway.

I have no experience with the North Mountain holders, but $100 is a ton of money for 6 holders. I bought some Safariland 333s for under $30 each OTD not long ago from Optics Planet. FYI.

Thanks all! I'll give em both a try - I'll clean and lube and grind down the pin. I had all ready filled the center post with JB Weld, so that shouldn't be a part of the problem. Much appreciate the help!

P.S. How do I take one apart? I took the pin out, but that doesn't seem to disassemble it.

I run Comp IIIs for an L-frame and they at times seem to not release their cargo on a reload. It seems as if something gets caught??? When they are empty and I compress them they do not compress or release smoothly. There are a couple of noticeable hitches on both the compression and release. It looks like the spring at its double turn might catch on the stainless pin. I've tried to position the pin to miss the spring but it appears too long to miss both ends - one ends appears to catch the spring regardless. So, is this pin/spring the culprit for my occasional reload pause? Or is something else going on. This seems to happen with most if not all my Comp IIIs. Much thanks in advance.

What's your primary revolver? An L-frame might not be compatible with your speed loaders and holster???

I was thinking about someday going to the same sights for both my 686 and 617. Right now I have an SDM FO on the 686 front. The 686 rear and the 617 front and rear are factory. At the very least I need to go FO front on the 617, but I'm thinking it might be worthwhile to use the same rear on both and get as close to the same front for the 617 I can get. ???

Much thanks for the info! Anyone have any thoughts on the two different rear sights between the 686 (typical white outline, deeper notch) and the 617? Why? What benefits do either present?

FWIW, I installed the Wolff Shooter's Pak Type 1 kit this weekend. http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=3&mID=58#447 Shot it last night for the first time. The trigger pull is *substantially* improved just from the springs alone. Not sure why the mainspring is such an improvement over the factory spring; it seems odd to me, but it is. I did have 2 light strikes out of 80 rds. I need to adjust this slightly. When I dry fired it (with "protection") I expected that I would get 50% light strikes at the range judging by how much lighter the pull was. I was astonished to only get 2. I did not do any stoning, so my trigger still has a nice big hump at the end. At $15 for the pak it's a cheap option well worth trying. If he's open to it, send Mike the springs and have him work his magic and install the springs, too. I've heard of some 617 cylinder chambers being too small, as well. I got lucky, but if you're 617 has this issue this alone would be worth a trip to Mike from the horror stories I've read.

The short answer is I've moved up 1 rank every 14 months and shot about 10 matches per bump with no practice. I shot very little handguns growing up. I started IDPA about 3.5 years ago, now 40 y.o. I've shot 30 matches. I go to a static range a few times a year that doesn't allow any IDPA-like actions of any kind. I made ESP SS after two years and a 15+ matches. I've been shooting SSR for 10 months. I have dry fired a decent amount to get used to the double action trigger. I shot a classifier a month ago and was 3 seconds from EX. I blew the first stage badly with three misses - I had never fired my revolver weak-handed before the classifier, and only a few times strong-hand. I did have my first IDPA practice session last week. I won't be able to practice consistently, but I expect to make EX soon enough and hope that I can make MA in a year if I actually practice even a reasonable amount, hopefully.

Does anyone know the height and width of the factory front sight? Also, I was curious why they use a smaller rear sight on the 617 then on the 686? What's the perceived benefit?

A lot of folks recommend the Wolff spring kits, get the full power kit with the three rebound springs. Check out rimfirecentral forums.

I don't see the j frames not coming out for lack of a division to be competitive in. The j frames stay at home or in their carry holster for the same reason the full-sized revolvers do, because they're revolvers. If people were worried about being competitive most would never bring a wheel gun, which most don't. There aren't enough revolvers at matches to compare yourself against other revolvers so we're left to compete against autos anyway. With that in mind nothing is stopping anyone from bringing a j frame or l frame, but the revolver itself.

I know a couple folks who shoot model 10s in IDPA; one shoots quite well. The 15 would be fine if desired. FYI the 19/66 are half-lugs.

Yep, unfortunately Bones is correct. The rules have an inclusive list which is meant to include all allowed modifications. If it's not on the list it's not an allowed mod. I suspect one could get a clarification from IDPA that would allow the mod, but who knows, and without said clarification technically it's disallowed.

Thanks Mike. That's my CompTac as well. Sounds like my gear will work just fine once I get enough of it... Much thanks to all. Feel free to post any additional items of interest.

The number of speedloaders needed was one of the questions I had. Thanks. I use Safariland Comp-3 which I understand to be desirable for USPSA as well. So I'm good with using the same type of loader. Plus I'm cheap, so using as much of the same gear is preferred. I have three Ready Tactical loader carriers. I'll need to increase my capacity by 5 more carriers. From the above it looks like Safariland 333 carriers are recommended. I can buy 2 of those for less than I can buy 5 more Ready tactical. I will need to mix and match my carriers then to achieve a capacity of 8. Any reason not to get two Safariland 333 and also use two Ready Tactical in conjunction? I have the CompTac belt holster for IDPA use. Sounds like that will do just fine in USPSA as well. Maybe not quite as fast, but I'm not fast enough for that difference to matter much at the moment anyway. Just for my info, what is the recommended race holster for a 686? Looks like I'll be set once I get more speedloaders and more carriers. If y'all have anything else to add feel free. Thanks!

I shoot a S&W 686 in IDPA and am looking to dabble in USPSA. What's a typical set up for all the gear in USPSA using a S&W 686? Holster, speedloaders, speedloader holders, belt, additional items? Much thanks in advance!

Anyone have any thoughts on the Enhanced Avenger by Lobo Gun Leather? I'm thinking about getting one for use in IDPA with a 686. I want a nice, leather holster that will draw well but not break the bank. http://www.lobogunleather.com/7_enhanced_avenger Much thanks in advance!

I do the same with my ammo that is less optimally shaped than other ammo I have.