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ffgats

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Posts posted by ffgats

  1. Hey, try it already! If it doesn't work out you can always put a blank in the dove tail slot and drive on! Hell you can even drill and tap the blank for a mid rib bead again...no down side. Quit treating your shotgun like it is an altar, it is a tool that can, and will, over it's life time, be hacked on tuned up and ultimately destroyed

  2. As to placement and speed, you're in an undiscovered country!!! I've never heard of anyone doing it, but if it winds up being faster then you can lay claim to being the innovator.

    I've got 7 or 8 shotguns with the sight mounted rearward, and have never noticed the rear sight unless I wanted to use it, so as for it being obstructive???????

    Trapr

    I will try to explain the best I can since detailing is not my forte, lol, started my SG shooting focusing on the targets and imposing the front sight on it. Now that I am on the 3 gun stuff and just starting by the way, with slugs stages I feel the need of a rear sight which my SG have it now. What I mean by Obstructive is that there is a tendency on my part to focus now on the rear sight even shooting using shots even on close and average distance targets.

    In thoery, if I placed my rear sight on the mid bead location to help me with my windage, maybe it will be faster or easier for a sight alignment. btw, I am far sighted so the more distance the sight away from eyes the better for me to see. hope Im making sense here

  3. XS makes different height sights, if you need to file the sight to the proper height, just need to know which height sight to start with, so you dont wind up with a taller sight than you need that has a very DEEP notch in it. measure your mid bead, and add, either .05 (XS recommended dovetail depth), or .075 which is my recommended dovetail depth. if youre going to file a notch then take that into consideration as well. sight heights are, .100, .120, .150, .170 this measurement is from the base of the sight to the top of the shallow V. my guess is .120 or .150 should work just fine, as .150 is what i use on most every installation ive done when placing it back on the rib.

    try to cut the dovetail over a rib support to give it rigidity, and when you file your notch, place electrical tape in front and behind the sight to help keep from scratching your rib with the file.

    if you call XS and ask for Monte Long he can send you what you need.

    Trapr

    The height of the mid bead measured from the rib is ...080, my origianal plan is to cut a notch of XS all the way to the rib , with this concept I will have a something for windage. as mentioned on my previous post if I put or cover my front sight with the mid bead I am getting the right point of impact.

    Another of question of mine before was, will it be faster if the XS will be installed on the mid bead location or at the rear part of the bbl, not talking of accuracy, just speed in sight alignment. I find it more instinctive right now and faster using my mid bead as the rear sight compared to my another SG which has the rear sight at the rear most location, somewhat more obstructive, I intend to focus more on the rear too. I know this sound crazy, just my observation. Thanks

  4. OP,

    I have both SG and both are 21", since you mentioned that no modification will be done for now except the things that you listed, Personally I will pick the 1301, from the box, The 1301 are smoother in the functions and are easier to feed. . I can see the potential of the M2, but needs more cash to make it race ready, and cash is a big factor for me right now. Maybe you can start with 1301 for now, have fun with it, and get the M2 in the future.. And trust me there no such thing as 1 gun guy, men are polygamous when it comes to guns. lol :devil:

  5. I totally agree the longer radius the better for accuracy. But I find faster right now using the mid bead, maybe because I can focus more on the target? My only problem on my present set-up, if I want to get the POI , the mid bead has to cover the front sight, So a XS sight with a square notch and a filing it to the same height as the mid bead will work, again a theory,

  6. Is it wrong to install the rear sight where the mid bead is located instead to the rear most part of the bbl?, I am far sighted maybe this will work better for me, just a theory gents. Maybe you can share the pros and cons on this idea. I just feel that with the sight about 13-16" from the front sight it will be more faster or easier to get the sight alignment

  7. No bbl clamp is good!

    Mark is right....I would be more than happy with the accuracy you seem to be getting! 2" to the right or left is real good!

    Keep in mind different bbls and receiver combinations will usually NOT have the same POI.

    I have a barrel for my Nova that is 1' left and 1'2" low, and another barrel for it that puts slugs perfectly centered at 70 yards.

    You just gave me an idea, maybe will try switching bbls and see how it goes, just for fun

  8. Both my 1301 the 21" and 24" are are accurate and will group less than inch at 50 yards, however the 21' will group to the left about 2" from the POA and and the 24" about the same size group to the right 2" also from the POA. Both using the Federal Truball Low Recoil

    Thinking of installing a pistol sight dovetail to the front so I can adjust for windage. Good Idea?

    If you have a field smooth-bore shotgun grouping slugs under 2MOA, you had better not touch that unicorn or you will mess it up. :)

    Mark,

    you are more knowlegeable than me , so you think a dovetail front sight might cause more problem,

    7.62 - no bbl clamp,

    both of my buddies 1301 shoot straight with slugs, POA-POI same ammo -Fedral low recoil

  9. Both my 1301 the 21" and 24" are are accurate and will group less than inch at 50 yards, however the 21' will group to the left about 2" from the POA and and the 24" about the same size group to the right 2" also from the POA. Both using the Federal Truball Low Recoil

    Thinking of installing a pistol sight dovetail to the front so I can adjust for windage. Good Idea?

  10. 950 for a used 1301 is too much. Mine new was 904. Welded lifters are old news. This is how you can set it up for quads or weak hand. Lifter design courtesy Roberto Vezzoli-number one ranked IPSC shotgun shooter and co-designer of the 1301. The 1301 thread has much more of this.

    attachicon.gifIMG_8174.jpg

    Jadeslade,

    I saw your original post about the Lifter mods you have about 4 months ago? any problem so far? very intrigue with that design

  11. When can you consider a shotgun is accurate in slugs

    POA-POI inches wise

    Slugs groups (3shots)@25,50 and 75 yards

    Must admit that I am shooting my 1301 like a rifle, pushing for groups which is not really what's intended for, maybe I should see a Shrink, lol

  12. loading quads right now is not my priority, my problem is on the grabs, fingers are just not long or inclined to . so will stick with twins.

    I can see your point with regards to M2's ergonomics when it comes to quads or even twins- credit to its forearm design.

    My M2 is already sold, have it for 2 days, wish it comes more refined from the box ( shell catch, safety, bolt release ,trigger) especially I paid $400.00 more than my 1301.

  13. No doubt it's a fine shotgun, I am just comparing both the M2 and 1301, from the factory but at least Benelli could have it desirable( shell catch, bolt release etc) . These parts are standard to every semi auto, instead bringing it a smith . Beretta is pretty close in selling their 1301 as comp ready

  14. the M2 just arrived 3 days ago, kinda somewhat dissapointed, was expecting to much I guess

    - had a hard time inseerrting shells into the mags, really have to push hard.( shell catch needs some polish)

    - the bolt release was a struggle to activate, same with the safety

    From the BOX, I think the 1301 is a better gun

    - shells load freely into the mags, even the follower drops freely out of the mag

    - all the control parts works smoothly, better trigger

    plus much cheaper than $400.00

    this comparison is base from when I received both guns, no modification done, ( direct from the factory)

    BTW- I am not an expert or a Pro , just a initial impression from a average gun enthusiast.

    The M2 is a fine shotgun right out of the box, it is not ready for racing. It needs to go to Mike Cyrus at Accurate Iron to be the work of art you are looking for.

  15. the M2 just arrived 3 days ago, kinda somewhat dissapointed, was expecting to much I guess

    - had a hard time inseerrting shells into the mags, really have to push hard.( shell catch needs some polish)

    - the bolt release was a struggle to activate, same with the safety

    From the BOX, I think the 1301 is a better gun

    - shells load freely into the mags, even the follower drops freely out of the mag

    - all the control parts works smoothly, better trigger

    plus much cheaper than $400.00

    this comparison is base from when I received both guns, no modification done, ( direct from the factory)

    BTW- I am not an expert or a Pro , just a initial impression from a average gun enthusiast.

  16. It came from the factory in 2 piece assembly, the receiver with the forearm and bbl assembly. I did not try to really push hard the forearm for fear of breakage, thanks for the tip will exert more force to push the forearm,

  17. My new m2 just arrived this morning, I can't seem to slide the forearm out from the magazine ext. there is a ring that stops the forearm from coming out . Any correct procedure you can share would be very helpful

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