Severian

Depending on what kind of gun you are using, be careful not to hit the muzzle of your gun on the door and knock it out of battery. Other than that, I'd just kick it open and run through out. Leave your hands out of it and on your gun.

What's your load for the M&P? They are notoriously picky, and vary from gun-to-gun. Good question. I've tried a number of bullets and loads, but settled on Precision Delta 124gr over 3.9gr Titegroup and an OAL of 1.135 or so.

I was taught by a very experienced commercial reloader who taught my reloading class to NEVER deprime a case, but, when you do, do so slowly and carefully I've never had one go off depriming. But I have had a couple of primers go bang when they dropped out of the primer tube and got under the press somehow (Dillon 550B). Scared me to death. But no damage. I now always wear safety glasses when reloading.

I did the same thing last month at an IDPA match in Mississippi. Ran right by a target. At the end of the stage the SO asked, "If the shooter is finished, unload and. . ." The way he said it made me think I just screwed up. And I did.

Okay. I know this is a topic often discussed in this forum--the accuracy of the M&P. I've had my M&P Pro 9mm for a couple of years now. I've put 5,000+ rounds through it on the range and in matches. I'm getting a little tired of the inaccuracy issues I'm having. I noticed the problem at this past Saturday's IDPA match. Shots that I thought I called pretty well were not zeros when socred, especially if they were longer than 15yrds. So yesterday I took my M&P out to the range to do a few more tests. I also brought my little Kimber Tactical Ultra II (3-inch barrel) 45acp because I'm going to shoot with it next week in a night shoot. It has nice tritium sights. Anyway, the short story is that that little Kimber was MUCH more accurate than my M&P. I didn't intend to match them head to head at the range. I initially just planned to test my M&P sights to see if I needed to adjust them. But I ended up running a little test after I was shocked at how accurate my little Kimber was. I set up about 8 targets at distances between 15 and 30 yards. I shot my M&P at a normal speed and timed and scored my run. Then I shot my Kimber the same speed and scored that run. I did this multiple times with different setups, etc. EVERY FRIGGIN TIME, my score with my Kimber was significantly better. Same time, but twice the points down with my M&P. Maybe I'm just better with the 1911 format--grip and all that. Could be. But I consistently got zeros on the longer targets with my Kimber. Not with the M&P. Then I shot them for groups at 20 yards. Consistent sub-2 inch groups with the Kimber. 4-6 inch groups with the M&P (with regular flyers). The Kimber's got a 3-inch barrel, for heaven's sake! Yikes. I'm not waiting for the Barsto barrels, I'm ordering a Storm Lake barrel today. I like my M&P too much to shelf it for accuracy reasons.

I've shot in low light and dark conditions with Titegroup and didn't have near the flash that others in my squad have had.

I've loaded 125 gr HAP over 4.1 to 4.4 tightgroup and will post my results I load my 125gr HAPS over 4.0 Titegroup with an OAL of 1.135. They make power factor with my M&P Pro and my STI Trojan.

I agree. This will probably replace my Limited gun. I need one of these babies!

Whoa, dude. I love my M&P, but one's just fine for me!

Yeah, I'd like to see the results, too.

Well, I'm definitely using a lighter recoil spring - 11lbs. But before this I've never had any problems (after 5,000+ rounds) with a FTRB.

This past Saturday at our club IDPA match we had a stage where you had to shoot through three ports in a wall. Each port had a hinged plywood door that was secured with a magnet on top. You hit the door and the port opened as the door fell out and down. It didn't take much to open the port. The guy before me was shooting with a G17. Instead of using his weak hand to knock the doors open, he just tapped the door with the front of his gun. No need to re-grip the gun that way. It worked for him. So I came to the line and decided to do the same thing. I ran to the first port, knocked it open, but when I pulled the trigger. . . no bang. Tap, rack, then bang. Came to the second port and the same thing happened. I'm clueless. Thought it was my gun. Third port. No bang. Afterwards I realized that the tap on the door was enough to knock my M&P out of battery. I should have realized that after the failure on the first port. Live and learn!

You gun may not return to battery if your striker spring is to strong for your recoil spring. If you make your striker spring too light you may have light strike issues. Exactly right. I use an 11lb recoil spring in my 9mm Pro. I had to take 2 coils off of my striker spring to make sure it returned to battery. Go slow.

Yep. It's saves time on the reload!

I've got a 34 and a M&P Pro 9mm. I use 11lb springs in both. They work great with 125 PF. Never any problems with probably 5,000+ rounds through my M&P.

I load my 124 Precision Delta JHPs out to 1.137 with my factory barrel. They are much more accurate for me at that length.

I shoot with a captured ISMI guide rod and an #11 lb spring. I shoot just above power factor with a 124gr Precision Delta over 3.9-4.0gr of Titegroup (OAL=1.140). That works perfectly for me.

Depends on a lot of stuff. I generally get better results (accuracy) with a longer OAL in my guns. But you need to make sure that it feeds properly into your barrel and that your magazines can handle a longer OAL. I can go to about 1.160 in my M&P and get good results, especially with lead. That's too long for my STI Trojan. Use an OAL that works best for your gun and the gives you the best accuracy. Experiment.

Yeah, I think that's right. I wasn't nuanced enough. Stipple the removable backstrap and it's still SSP. Stipple the entire grip and your in ESP territory.

Whoops. My bad. I meant PD (Precision Delta).

Yes, but be aware that if you stripple the back strap or any part of the grip, you kick the gun up from SSP to ESP in IDPA. But if you don't care about that, go for it. Skate tap over the whole grip is still SSP legal.

Get the Apex trigger. Unbelievable improvement. Experiment with a lighter recoil spring (depending on your load). I use a 11lb spring. And definitely change the front sight to a Dawson Precision .10 wide FO. Do what you want with the rear sight. I replaced the factory with a DP adjustable rear sight.

I recently experimented to answer this very question. I liked the HAPs but they were too expensive. I found that the DP JHPs were virtually identical in performance. Now, I use DPs in my STI Trojan and my M&P Pro. They are accurate and I have no feed issues whatsoever.

Does anyone know if it's legal for IDPA ESP division?

Thanks, Jeff. That's helpful. How about this Easyfit Magwell? Scroll down to the middle to see it. http://www.smartlock.com/SWThumbMagwell.htm Jeff