GOF
-
Posts
1,265 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by GOF
-
-
I use .38 Long Colt for ICORE instead of Short Colt because I get better accuracy with the Long Colt, and the ejector rod stroke on my GP-100 completely clears the Long Colt cases from the cylinder. 3.3 grains of Clays and a Speer 158 LRN makes 120 PF easy, and is every bit as accurate as .38 Spl loads.
For reloading I size & deprime with a .38 Spl die. But, I have not been able to bell or seat with .38 Spl dies. Lee makes an inexpensive .38 Long Colt die set and I use their bell and seating die. Their sizing die is crap, and their belling die is annoying but it works. Their seating die works well. I am loading on an RCBS press, not a Dillon, so I don't know if this die set up would work for those.
-
Or, since we're talking CDP, maybe not counting rounds and reloading at 6, 7, or 8 (whatever the personal preference is) just like you would do it in the Real World... and yes, another kitten made it into my stew. Thank God there's plenty of kittens to go around.
-
Anybody shooting a 125gr load? I'm looking for a j-frame plinker load.
Clays or 231 will work. Start with 2.8 Clays or 3.7 231 and see if you're getting what you want. Both are safe, well below max, loads.
-
IDPA SSR only requires a 105 PF (158 @ 675 fps makes it). You can do that easily with 231. But, the more experienced IDPA SSR shooters stay with a PF around 115-120. That's to make sure that when they hit steel it goes down, which is very important if that steel is activating a mover... which is becoming very common in IDPA. If you have counted your rounds and know you have enough for the steel and the mover, and the steel doesn't go down when hit... and you have to fire extra rounds at it... then your stage plan is up in smoke.
A 158 grain velocity of 735 - 745 fps is ideal. Soft recoil and handles steel very well. With a plated bullet you can do that easily with a 158 grain bullet at standard (not +P) pressures with 231. For what you want, I think 231 is the ideal powder.
If you have a chronograph available, start with 4.0 grains 231 (or HP38... same powder, just a different can/label) and see where you are. Plated bullets will be cleaner than cast, and you should be good to go.
-
My problem with gold/brass bead front sights is that light from the side will light up that side of the bead more than the other and cause horizontal dispersion. I've never had any use for them.
-
If you stay with existing CDP rules on the maximum magazine capacity of 8 rounds, the .40 has no advantage. All guns -- same amount of bullets. If all the loads make the same PF, with the same amount of bullets... it's the Indian and not the arrow.
That is the point of those who advocate opening CDP up to something other than .45 ACP. Many feel that there is no logical reason for insisting that CDP be .45 ACP only. It does seem as if IDPA is creating a 'niche' for the .45 ACP so that it can still be competitive... and ruling out other useful 165 PF calibers fired from the same platforms in order to venerate the .45 ACP.
Does the .45 ACP actually need that kind of 'help' to survive as a competition round?
-
Yes... a S&W K-frame is a fine IDPA gun. Don't know what particular model you're looking for, but you won't go wrong with a 4 inch model 15, 19, 66. They have adjustable sights (although I think you'll have to find those guns on the used market). The Models 10, 13, 64 have fixed sights (used market again), which is not a draw back if you regulate them to your load. Speedloaders, holsters, and accessories are readily available for all K-frames.
If you can't find those, another option is the Ruger GP-100. Solid gun, with all the needed accessories available. I have four GP-100s and they have put sanctioned match trophies on my "I Love Me" wall.
-
Long Live The .45 ACP in its 1911 home! Yes, there is a place for that antique in IDPA and it shall be protected from any new technology; irrespective of the Real World.
Antiques must be protected. Now, if you'll excuse me, I need to go practice with my .38 Special revolver because I have a match coming up and am shooting SSR.
OK, in all seriousness... Koski has it right. But, remember who runs IDPA, and what guns HE builds. Do you actually think he might entertain allowing different platforms and calibers in his "1911/.45 ACP division"?
You realize that different platforms ARE allowed in that division right? Its not just for the 1911, its for .45s.
Yes... I realize that platforms different from the 1911 are allowed in CDP if they shoot the .45 ACP cartridge. I am classified in IDPA as a CDP EX with my M&P .45.
But, that doesn't explain why .40 S&W, 10mm and .45 GAP are exluded from CDP. All can make the 165 PF, and two are common LE agency cartridges. Can anyone explain why they are not allowed... irrespective of the platform they are shot from?
The .45 ACP rule makes no sense, unless one wishes to create a special place for an antique round that can't be competitive anywhere else. Would the inclusion of these other rounds further drive the .45 ACP into a deeper hole?
-
Long Live The .45 ACP in its 1911 home! Yes, there is a place for that antique in IDPA and it shall be protected from any new technology; irrespective of the Real World.
Antiques must be protected. Now, if you'll excuse me, I need to go practice with my .38 Special revolver because I have a match coming up and am shooting SSR.
OK, in all seriousness... Koski has it right. But, remember who runs IDPA, and what guns HE builds. Do you actually think he might entertain allowing different platforms and calibers in his "1911/.45 ACP division"?
-
It's not legal in CDP at the moment. It may be one of the things the IDPA Tiger Teams are looking into, and that may (or may not) change. There are more than a few members who have raised complaints about the exclusion of the .40 S&W, 10mm and .45 GAP from the CDP division. They all, easily, make the power factor, and the .40 S&W and .45 GAP are in common use with many LE agencies.
-
I think the reason that dogs have such short lives is so that we can treaure them all the more during the brief time they are here with us.
I'm wiping tears from my eyes as I read your post because I'm thinking about the dogs in my past. I was privilaged to know them, and remember every one of them to this day.
If there aren't any dogs in Heaven, I don't want to go there. But, I'm sure there are, because every home needs a wagging tail and a goofy grin when you walk in the front door. And, I think that God gave us dogs anyway, so I'm sure that's where they go.
-
Is ICORE back in the Jacksonville area?
-
If you like the G22, why not shoot it? If you reload, you can make the .40 kick like a light 9mm. The G22 is SSP legal, so why not?
-
Just a thought.... but RE: too bright a front fiber optic.... a quick pass over the exposed upper portion with black spray paint will reduce the amount of light it can grab, and mute the brightness it shows you. It's something you have to play with to get right, but if the sight's too bright this will help.
On rear sights, I love the Bowen Rough Country sights on my Ruger GP-100s. It's not click adjustable. It uses opposing screw tension, and once it's set, it stays there. I've had factory Ruger and S&W click adjustable rear sights 'bounce' on me due to weak springs (the Ruger rear sight is famous for this)... but the Bowen stays put and I love the sight picture.
-
Of the three I would go with Unique. But, consider Win 231/HP38. I think it's a better powder for 9mm/45 ACP competition loads than those you mentioned.
-
jb
If you have a real light trigger job the primers need to be Federal and they need to be seated with a crush fit... .006-008 below flush with the case head. I normally run my finger tip over the primed round as I remove it, to feel the seating depth. But, Federals are what you need to use, and you didn't tell us what primers you were using. Winchester can be OK if Federals aren't available, but the other primer makes are pretty hard and may not work with a light action job.
If that doesn't work for you I'll leave it to the 625 experts (I shoot Ruger GP-100s in Minor) to talk about mainspring bending and strain screw tension, or extended firing pins.
BTW... I don't think I'll be making any matches in September, but thanks for the feedback on the Volusia club. I haven't been there and don't know the people. I may see you there in October. I'll be the old blond guy in faded levis, light colored tee-shirt, ballcap, with a 6 inch GP-100 in a Blade tech DOH.
-
jb
Where to you plan on shooting ICORE in NE FL? I live near Palatka, and know of matches down in New Symrna and Orlando. If you know of another, please let me know. When I heal up from surgery in another few weeks I will be hitting ICORE as hard as I can.
And, the suggestion of a 185 .45 ACP at about 750 fps is an excellent one. You can cut the PF as low as you want, but you still need a reliable and accurate load. This one should do it for you with not more than 140 PF recoil, which is nothing from a 625.
-
I have always been at odds with the revolver reload. The choice between left handed or strong handed. I like the strong handed reload. But when I practice it I find the gun rotates away from me, or slips, when rolling my fingers through the window to grab the cylinder and eject the rounds with my thumb. On the weak handed relaod I like the strength of ejecting the rounds with the palm of my left hand, but find the cylinder isn't always stable when inserting the new rounds into the cylinder with my left hand.
I have never seen anybody do it, but I eject the rounds with the palm of my left hand. While dropping the gun down I roll my fingers through and hold the gun and cylinder open with my left hand. I then pick up the new moon clip with my right and and insert it into the cylinder. Its a cross between a left handed reload and a right handed reload. It gives me the extra power with ejecting the moon clip and the stability when inserting the new one. I know its odd, I understand that, but it seems to work for me. Thats my two cents.
This is just me, but when executing a reload where the gun is held in my strong (right hand) I sometimes find ejected cases stacking up on the thumb of the right hand holding the gun. With the gun in my left hand (held by two fingers through the frame) there is nothing for the fired (.38 Spl) cases to hang up on. And, while I'm punching that ejector rod with my left thumb, my right hand (which is my most dexterious) is free to grab a speedloader.
For those shooting .45 ACP moon clips, the cases are shorter, so may not hit the right hand holding the gun. But, with .38/speedloader guns, I find the old FBI style reload to work best. YMMV.
-
I shoot a lot of revolver. Have been for over 40 years. I'm right handed and use the old FBI reload system. At the last shot the first movement is to hit the cylinder release. Simultaneously with that, the left hand comes under the gun and the two middle fingers slap the cylinder out and go completely through the frame to assume total control of the gun. The left hand thumb slams the ejector rod to clear the fired cases while my dominant (right hand) is digging a new load from my belt and slapping it into the gun. The left palm then comes up to close the cylinder and 'hands find hands' to reacquire the two hand shooting grip.
The weak hand reload, IMHO, is slower because it requires the left hand (for a right handed shooter like me who is still holding onto the grip) to hit the ejector rod to clear empty cases and then move to the belt to grab a new load. The takes more time on the clock than just using the FBI 'thumb on the ejector rod'. In addition, if you don't have the revolver fully canted outward, it's possible... when the gun is gripped in the shooting hand... for the cylinder to slide a bit back into the frame and impede the insertion of a fresh load. With the FBI method, the weak hand has the cylinder fully exposed and that problem doesn't exist.
The same FBI reload has proven... to me... to be faster with either SSR speedloaders or ESR moon clips. The movements are the same. YMMV
-
First, get more moon clips. Reloading them at a match is a PITA, and takes away from your time helping paste, and looking over the stages. Check with an experienced shooter and find a safe and legal holster, then enough moon clip belt carriers to handle 6 (USPSA/ICORE) or 3 for IDPA. A moon clip checker is also nice.
After that, go shoot, have fun, and you'll learn.
-
There is no standard 'ladies gun'. Glocks and M&Ps are popular (with males and females)... I also seen Browning Hi-Powers (you are now allowed to disconnect the mag safety) a few SIGs, and one of my female team mates shoots a Night Hawk 1911 9mm.
It's the same as with guys... what fits your hand and shoots well for you.
-
To the OP... there is much excellent Real World wisdom in the above quotes regarding factory ammo for self-defense.
Following it could save you much grief down the road.
I've been hand loading for over 40 years but I will not use reloads for SD. In 9mm consider Speer 124+P Gold Dot, Federal HST 124 or 147+P, or Win 127+P Ranger T. They are proven LE loads, and that counts in your favor if you every are so unfortunate as to actually have to use them for real.
-
+1 on 231 with the plated bullets.
-
I forgot to mention 231/HP38... but you might get what you want with that. It's a very versatile powder for competition loads. It won't always get you to max velocity... but it will make a good match load.
Ruger GP 100
in Revolver Forum
Posted · Edited by GOF
The Ruger GP-100 is a very sturdy and reliable revolver. There are only two screws on the gun that need to be addressed -- the grip retaining screw and the small screw under the cylinder release. S&W guns have three screws on the right hand side plate, one on the rear sight, another on the cylinder release, and another on the mainspring to tension it. If anyone of those loosens up, you can have a malf. I've seen rear sights, cylinder latches, and even cylinders (when the crane screw backs out) fall off in a match. Then of course, there is the mainspring tension screw. It it loosens you get light strikes. That happened to me on the first stage at 2006 USPSA FL State, and killed me.
S&W has also changed it's rifling in the last five + years and they do not handle lead bullets as well as the Ruger, and do not offer the same level of accuracy if you prefer to shoot lead. I couldn't get better than 4 inches from a 25 yard bench rest with my last 686, but I can get 2.5-inches with my Rugers. I'm a IDPA SO and I have also seen that a lot of 158 grain lead bullets, cast and swaged, have tumbled when I score the targets (and from my previous gun as well). The Ruger shoots lead well, and the factory barrels are more than accurate enough for ICORE (which is the most accuracy oriented of the action games).
I shot S&W revolvers in competition (and carried them on both military and LEO duty) since 1968. I changed to the GP-100 in 2006, and never looked back. I now have four of them. I am biased in their favor, but I think my reasons are backed by experience.
The 4-inch GP-100 is a legal IDPA gun. It weighs in right between a S&W K-frame and a S&W 686. It uses the same speedloaders as the 686 (L-frame) I have 2 dozen Safariland Comp III L-frame speedloaders that work just fine with the Ruger.
What I have done to my Rugers is this: smooth the internal action parts and install a Wilson Combat spring kit, the DA pull is 8.25 pounds and butter smooth.... polished the chambers.... replaced the factory rear sight with a Bowen Rough Country (Ruger offers an interchangeable front sight model, and Hi-Viz makes a good fiber optic front sight that mates perfectly with the Bowen Rear). Grips are a matter of choice. Hogue offers hardwood Mono-Grips for it.
It doesn't take much to tune a GP-100 for competition, and for a lot less bucks than a S&W. I can feel Bones cycling up now... but those are my thoughts on the GP-100 and sorry for the long post.