bill87123

I am allergic to rubber and some other things but never had an issue with Moly coatings.

Looks nice

Thanks guys, I have the solid one (first one) on the wish list ready to be ordered. Just trying to figure out what else I want to buy from there while I am at it.

WST or 231 for me

Most interesting. I was just trying the first exerise and like you say if the hole is large in my hands I can bring my arms to which ever eye was being used to see the object before I start to move my hands to my head. Even if the hole is small (Dime size) I can move my head left or right until one of my eyes goes dominate and picks up on my target then I can bring my hands forward to that eye. And if I put my head in the middle than I never see the object. I think either eye can be made to focus as the dominate eye on a target. I think you have the right approach to pick which eye you want to use and concentrate on it so that it becomes your dominate eye at that particular moment.

Never heard of anyone not having a dominate eye before. What happens when you take hands and form a small circle, looking at something small and move your hands to your eye. Seems like its got to go to one eye or the other.

Do what? What exactly do you have in mind? Grind and polish what?

I am not cross eye dominate and currently shoot closing one eye. I played with this a little the other night in the basement and can see where if both eyes could be kept open it would open up my field of vision. However my non-dominate eye plays havoc with my sight picture and makes it jump off target, compared to when its closed. I did take a couple sight pictures where the sight picture stayed put. What is the best exercise to train yourself to just use the dominate eye while they are both open?

I had a guy reloading me some loads which ended up being what I called Poof-Poof loads for my revolver. 38 special 125 gr T/C Plated 3.1 gr Clays 624 ft/sec ave after I crono-ed a few.

Awesome thanks! We will get one on order.

I was reading an article on Schuemann's web site that said the same thing about worn out barrels from solvents and over cleaning. Makes me want to go out and Slug my barrel... bet its toast.

My dad recently purchased a slightly used CZ-75B and has an issue when dropping mags that they seem to stick in the gun. There appears to be a thin (.010 or so) metal thing between the mag and main spring that is rubbing the mag... and from reading other posts I am guessing this is the "Mag Brake". Anyway I tried bending it out of the way some and that helps but occasionally the mag will still stick. What if I were to remove it all together? Is there any other ideas on how to fix it. It has some weird bends that I am not sure are factory so maybe order a new one.

What do you guys think about pinning the trigger on strong hand or weak hand only shots to help control the recoil. I find myself doing that. Always thought it was a good idea but after reading this thread I am questioning it.

I consider this my cheap hobby. Try drag racing. Comparison.. I broke my limtd gun the other day, cost me 35 bucks. I broke my drag car last year and I am at 3K and still have another 3K to spend before its back on the track. Cost me about $150 to go to the track if nothing brakes. Last person I took out there got the bug and built a car, now 2 years later she is having the time of her life... Wanta come play

Welcome to the club

I have not had that problem but I have had the Moly rounds build up lead in the barrel pretty quickly. I would find it hard to believe you could really build up enough moly in the barrel to effect the round not being able to fully load. You sure its not lead?

I just looked up on Hodgon's web site My link Go to reloading center and they have some loads published. Anyway they say: 200 GR. HDY XTP Winchester WST .400" 1.125" 3.0 gr Min 654 ft/sec 25,300 PSI 3.4 gr Max 733 ft/sec 31,100 PSI So it looks like the pressures are getting up there pretty good with 3.4 gr of WST, however that is a jacketed round so you might be ok but I would check the spent primers as they will "square" up on the radius when the pressures are too high. Do a search for reading primers and you should be able to find some good stuff. That web site also has 200 gr data for 231, WSF, and Autocomp but all jacketed rounds.

All the stuff in the books and what other people do is only a starting point anyway. Every gun is different... same size barrel or not, so what you really need to do is go Cronograph your load and see where it is. Also learn to read the spent primers and cases and make sure your not over stressing. I worry about 4.0 gr and 1.125"

I would not think that a .25 inch in barrel length would need any measurable amount of power increase. We typically add .1 gr of WST when going from a 6" to 5" barrel gun and that ends up being about right.

Schueumann Gain Twist 5" AET barrel Billy Bullets Moly Coated 180 gr Round bullets, 4.3 gr WST, 1.185 OAL: 165,240 Power Factor, 918 ft/sec Average of 10 rounds Billy Bullets Moly Coated 180 gr Round bullets, 4.4 gr WST, 1.185 OAL: 168,660 Power Factor, 937 ft/sec Average of 10 rounds Temps would have been around 80 degs F and we are at 5000 ft elevation if that makes any difference. I guess I lied on the 1.200 OAL as that is my 185 gr Precision bullets of which I am loading with 4.4 gr WST and thinks makes Major as well but I could not find the crono records on so maybe I don't really know. The Billy Bullets had the wax groove where the crimp would go at 1.200 so I had to shorten them to the 1.185.

I don't think he has a web site but give Charlie at C&M a call at (505) 899-1188 and he will be glad to hook you up. They are nice, I have them posted all over my basement as well.

WST for me also, 1.200 OAL, 4.4 gr I think.

Pulled a couple bullets today and not a scratch on them.

No worries its a stainless barrel Thanks for the caution however.

Ya definatly some lead in there. I cleaned the heck out of it, shot 100 rounds then checked it. Accuracy seemed to be fine but pulled a ton of lead out of it with the Lewis Lead Remover, and there was still some bumpy looking things left in there after that. There was also some gray looking stuff near the end of the barrel that I assumed was lead but maybe that was moly, and that was the hardest stuff to clean out. I am going to try it again and this time see how well it cleans up with the vinegar/peroxide dip. I like the idea of pulling one apart with the hammer and see if the coating has been compromised, I will try that this weekend and maybe that will help explain what is going on. I don't recall right now how much I am crimping them so I will also go check that.