bill87123

What a great match, everything went extremely smooth due to all the hard work and preparation by the staff. Just wanted to say a BIG THANK YOU for everyones hard work. Next time if you could just get mother nature to behave better that would be great...

Sorry its been so long since I got back in here. Got the thumb rest on and as mentioned there was no need to change the recoil spring. The gun returned to position and stayed flat just as before. I have only shot the gun a couple of times but so far I am really liking the way it feels.

Fixing to add a thumb rest to my Caspian open gun and wondering how it will effect the recoil spring? Almost seems as if you may have to go down in spring weight to keep the slide from dipping the muzzle as it closes.

So I measured things more accurately at work. The major Dia is right on at .400 for the most part and the groove to groove measurement is .394 dia. I still need to call Schueman and see what they say.

What an offer...

I have tried the precision moly and it leaded up my barrel pretty bad and was very very difficult to get it clean out near the end of the barrel. However they shot real nice. I think once I get through this last batch of the plated I will just stick with the JHP of which are ruffer but have not had any issues with.

It shoots jacket reasonable well, maybe 2-3 inches at 20-25 yards. However it was keyhole(ing) some of the plated rounds I was shooting through it today. When I benched them the 10 or so I shot were accurate, so I was just trying to figure out why they were tumbling... good thing is I only have a couple hundred of them left then back to MG.

Wondering if my barrel is still good or not so I slugged it with a .400 precision black bullet. Its a Schueman AET Gain Twist barrel. The main part of the bullet measured .3985-.3990 and the grooves left in the bullet measure .395-.394 best I can measure them. I'll get better measurements when I get to work on Monday. Anyone have any idea on what it's supposed to measure?

Thanks for the advise about Skip, it looks like I was finally able to evict ol Skip Chambers. It was not as easy as a burr on the cylinder, it was not as easy as replacing the cylinder stop, in fact it became a personal battle with me and ol Skip. Turns out the cylinder stop was dragging on either the trigger or the frame and not wanting to return pass the point where it just barely made contact with the cylinder. So took just a little off the sides and ol Skip Chambers left the house! Now lets see how it shoots.

Crossbreed Supertuck for me with the upgraded leather, but that Adams Holster looks real nice!

Thanks for the response, there were some burrs on the back side of the cylinder locating grooves that I removed and there might have been some small burrs on the front side of the grooves right at the end of the ramps I don't really remember. I will have to check it out tonight. I have heard great things about your hammers and trigger work... I might just have to send this thing to you here soon.

Just purchased a 625 and when you pull the trigger slow or moderate everything is fine, timing, lock up, etc. However when you pull the trigger hard and fast the cylinder skips past the lock and can end up anywhere. The spring in the lockup tab seems fine, I switched the lockup block and spring with another one and same problem. The internals are spotless and well oiled. The cylinder grooves look good. The lockup tab does not seem to be binding on anything. The only thing I have not tried is to also put the trigger from my other gun in there to see if maybe the trigger is holding onto the lockup block a little to long but it does not look like it is, just not sure if the hand would still be in time well enough to actually try that. The only minor out of the ordinary thing I can see is that the lockup block does not rub perfectly in the center of the cylinder but is back just slightly. I am at a loss... any ideas?

That is what I was after thank you.

Hmmm Thanks that Henning ConeFit guide rod looks like a great idea... I will have to pick on of them up

Hey that is a good link... thanks, had not seen that one!

What do I need to measure to determine the full compession distance of the recoil spring? On my 1911 guns its an easy measurement to take on the slide, but I don't see that it is that easy on the EAA. Are they pretty much all the same? I am trying to determine how much to clip my recoil spring so it does not go solid.

I built a recoil spring device and am now trying to figure out where to make the measurement to match the quoted numbers when you order springs. Is it at 80% compression or 100% compression. I have several old springs that are all mixed up I am trying to sort out.

I was worried about the threads being damaged in his gun, I know we shot 100-120 with it that day, and I bet he has shot close to 1000 with it and we suspect it had never had a choke in it ever. The choke screwed right in and looking at the threads looks like nothing ever touched them. Maybe he was just lucky. Anyway it does have a choke in it now, we just found it interesting. I would think a diffuser would be better than no choke as far as consistency.

Ever shoot a shot gun with out the choke in it? Took a buddy out to a sporting clays match the other day and after wards we got to talking about choke tubes. Turns out his gun did not even have one screwed in. Says it must have been that way since he bought it. I did notice on a rabbit shot or two that he had a nice wide pattern. The surprising thing is he even got some clays at a good distance. We screwed one in and the threads and everything seem to be just fine. It makes me wonder though if there is an advantage to having something even looser than a skeet choke?

Yep that is exactly what I will do. In fact I still have some 80 of these questionable rounds I will be pulling and doing just that. Thanks for every ones inputs and discussion. Bill

Yes I did use a kinetic puller, but out of the 4 I just pulled one had no, zilch, nada powder, hence the problem. I would think if just the primer got screwed up it would not have gone off at all and been a dud instead of a squib.

Well squibs they were. I just pulled 4 of the remaining ones and found another one with no powder. So how in the world do you think I did that. The only thing I can think of is I must not have been returning the handle to the fully upright position since I was not trying to seat a primer and that caused the rod not to fully cycle the powder bar. Bummer. Sucks pulled 100 thinking I had a problem and did not, only to reload them and have many problems. Guess I learned my lesson.

Also note this was in a .38 special as it was revolver day so its a light pressure load anyway.

Is there any chance the press (dillon 550) would not put powder in the case in that senerio. Because I don't see how I could get the bullet to seat in the one die with out getting run through the powder station in the other. And all the rounds were seated properly. Also not this was 3 out of the first 15-20 rounds as we gave up after that. I need to pull the remaining 80 or so and see if any of them have no powder.

So had a problem yesterday with some ammo, and what I am going to call a squib like condition that I would like to understand. History: There was a box of ammo that I thought something was wrong with one of them so I pulled the bullets from, dumped all the powder out and put back together. I did not de-prime or run the casing through the sizing die, just opened up the powder die button and started there. Some of the bullets were quite loose in the case as they went back together since it had been stretched out from the first bullet. Results: Within the first 15-20 of these rounds we had 3 squib like problems where the bullet made it into the forcing cone and stopped. Also the outside of the casing was very black. (Don't know how black a casing would get if only a primer existed. Discussion: I am finding it hard to believe that I some how neglected to put any powder in these rounds. I am thinking it is more likely that the powder did not detonate but instead burned due to the light pressure of the case holding the bullet and not being able to develop any pressure. And that it could also have contributed to the black soot all over the outside of the case. Am I on track or wet between the ears?