ScottyPotty
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Posts posted by ScottyPotty
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Anything can be done but to have just one of anything built in a machine shop is going to be expensive.
If you are just wanting to remove and replace one die without loosing settings just get one of the locking split set collar jam nuts or they make some that use a set screw.
Maybe. I have a friend with a bridgeport and rotary table. Would rather have something CNC'd rather than having to hand retrofit it, but if need be, I can do it. It's so much easier to make changes in a CAD virtual environment. Broaching those vertical splines is going to suck.
No need to broach - just dill and tap. Then use this conversion kit. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/858110/hornady-lock-n-load-press-and-die-conversion-bushing-kit
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what did they do? just mill out the end and put a bearing in?
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Good to hear you got it worked out. I had issues with mine when I first got mine (bought it used) Dillon sent me a new spring and new arm which solved my issue.
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You would probably have to buy that solid aluminum tool head then you could drill and tap.
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There is a time for everything. Now is the time to sell it if you got it.
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You can do something like this to block the case feed.
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Here is a simple device I've found to work great, easy to use and it keeps the primers from advancing. I used a piece of shim stock.
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I did the bearing upgrade and now I'm finding the loaded shells seem to want to get caught on the eject wire. I even tried it with one of the washers taken out...Still get hung up on the wire. So, I took it all off and it''s flying again.
You guys bending that wire that ejects the shells? I'm loading 9mm
I bent mine a little bit to help out.
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Why would you expect free upgrades? If they didn't charge for up grades there would be no money for R&D
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And many said Lee's product are cheapo... if the press and dies seems ok, their "perfect powder measure" looks ssooooooo cheap compared to a Hornady or a redding, in that case, we exactly have what we pay for..., and not even sure it worth the 30$...
The Lee Perfect Powder Measure is actually fairly accurate and consistent. It's not up to par with the RCBS or Redding but it's a fraction of the price.
Spend the extra coin and get the RCBS, Redding or Hornady power measure you will not regret spending more on one of these. I had many bad experiences with Lee PPM and don't recommend it to anyone. Buy a good one and you wont have to do it again.
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The Lee Double Disk kit will allow you to drop enough powder for the rifle charges.
The max charge is about 45grns. People drill out their disks or Ive heard of making a triple disk kit.
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I had a loadmaster and got so tired of the constant issues I sold it and got the 650. It has been a pleasure to own and operate. I once again enjoy sitting down and making ammo. There are a few small issues and it takes a little getting used to, but once your set up it just works, and works well.
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Well, I don't care for the powder measure bar adjustment, for starters. I think it's difficult to adjust easily.
I don't care for the fact it's designed to need a new powder measure every time you switch calibers--those things are frickin' expensive.
I don't like the primer feed mechanism, as it flips a lot of primers. I say "a lot," but my Hornady hasn't flipped a single primer with the thousands of rounds I've loaded with it. *knocks on wood*
I mentioned before, I don't care for all of the little pieces that go with the press, too much stuff to lose. Yes, I realize there's a no-BS policy, but you have to order a $30 spare parts kit right off the bat to ensure it doesn't crap out when you need it most.
Having said that, I admit I've not used a Dillon for any length of time, so I have only made observations based on the catalog and helping a friend set up his.
I would have agreed with you if you said any of the following:
Case activated priming - no primers advancing without a case present. Both the Lee loadmaster and the LNL have this feature.
The spent primer catch should be up graded.
The snapping of the shell plate as it enters into position could be smoothed out
finger adjustment or just add a round knob on the charge bars so you dont have to use a wrench.
come up with a way to shut off the case feed tube down on the press. I currently use a piece of bent hanger wire to hold closed the spring operated gate (that when open drops a new case into the press)
power measurer safety rod and linkage needs improved - I took off mine and just use springs.
use more of the same size nuts/bolts so you dont need 50 different size wrenches or hex keys.
You dont need a new power measurer for each tool head, you loosen 2 small screws with an allen wrench and the PM comes off and on to the power die on you next tool head. It only takes about a min for the changeover. I havent had any issues with primers flipping - now you have to load them correctly or you will get upside down primers. You do not have to buy the spare parts kit, I never did and I have two 650s.
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The only reason I bought the 650 over the 550 was because I had 5K of 223 to do and I wanted to use the case feed on rifle.
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I helped a friend set up a 650 he inherited from his uncle, and I was amazed at the large number of itty-bitty parts ™. While I liked the way the Dillon worked, that was its biggest flaw, in my not so humble opinion. I advised him to order a spare parts set immediately, in case something went wrong. That turned out to be prescient, as he had a problem with the auto index right after I left, which we traced to the little tomahawk-looking part under the shellplate. Luckily he had a spare, but it could have held him up for a week or so.
YMMV, as I've never heard from a Dillon owner who hated their press.
The tiny parts thing is a strength and a weakness. Its a strength to have special parts that make each caliber run correctly on your machine. Other brand presses make one part fit all and end up not working correctly or only works for certain calibers and cause continual tinkering. As always More parts = more money, more to break and more spare parts on hand and longer caliber changes.
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Yep. But for pistol caliber I don't need gigantic powder capacity. That and they are 40 bucks as opposed to 75
In my experience the difference in cost is a small price to pay for the added accuracy. Once you get some free time you should look for tips and tricks to really make your press shine.
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i'll look harder at the dillon presses, what about dies? you use dillon or other brands?
I had some issues with lee dies and found by switching to a better die RCBS, Dillon or Redding my problems went away. IMHO its worth it to spend a little more on the dies.
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I had a loadmaster. I highly recommend skipping it and gong with a dillon or LNL. I got so tired of the constant struggle to make it run. It will produce ammo, but it will run and then get out of adjustment fix it and then repeat this over and over. Once I got the Dillon set up it just plain runs and runs, no fuss, just ammo.
I went with the Dillon 650 because I could use the case feeder with rifle ammo. Otherwise I would have got the 550. My buddy has the LNL and he likes it just fine.
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I picked up a Lee cast turret for smaller batches of off calibers. U
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I hate to just follow people and wanted to prove they were wrong. So I bought a lee load master. It was bad! I had to hand prime everything and every 100 rounds I had to stop and re-adjust something. I got so fed-up I just sold the press and didnt even replace it with anything for a long time. I then had to make the same decision your facing now. Blue or Red? When I compared prices and sorted through all the crap to find out needs vrs wants. I even made a excel spreed sheet of all the parts. The prices of the two press are pretty close (I cant remember exactly but it was around $150.00)
Its tough because unless you know someone you just cant go to the store and check over the Dillon's. I ended up finding a used 650 with goodies on craigs list and went blue. I figured if it doesnt work out Ill sell it and get the LNL. I still have it and it runs great, it does take a little set up but once you get used to it and dialed in you dont have to fiddle with things, it just runs and runs cranking out ammo like mad. I'm a happy Dillon customer, they are not perfect like some may think. I do believe its time for some up-grades from them. The primer advance/ramp thing is annoying, but easily disabled and the old primers like to jump out of the cup sometimes.
It seems like the more money you want to spend on Dillon parts the easier the change overs are - powder bars, tool heads, powder measures, large & small primer assy and other parts add to the cost but are not needed if money is tight. Also many of the conversion parts are interchangeable so you dont need a conversion kit for each caliber. Like your .357 sig and .40 probably use most of the same parts so you dont have to buy a complete conversion kit.
I have been so happy with the 650 I bought another one just because it was a deal. Sharing tool heads, parts and case feeder make it super easy to switch over. Good luck!
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Looks great, good job!
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I have not set mine up yet so this was good to know. Maybe aiming a small high speed fan at it might help. I'm going to trim .223 with mine.
I did hook up a small computer fan and it helped a lot.
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Nice job. Great idea. Did you clean up for the pics or is that normal?
Thanks guys, defiantly not normal. I had just finished up a batch of ammo, and I wanted to clean and lube the press. So I had just got done cleaning up installing/building the case feed bar. Since it was clean I figured it was a good time for a pic.
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It'll get so hot that you can't touch it.
Yep
Improved accuracy in my Dillon Powder dispenser
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
I did a repeatability test and have found that you can stroke the press to fast. Pausing a second or two when the charge bar is dumping into the case helps remove 100% of the powder in the charge bar.