AirForce2

Tks for the info. I have had a hard time finding someone around here with just a "throat reamer". Am I correct that there are throat reamers and chamber reamers and neither seems very cheap to come buy, esp for just one type of gun/barrell I own. Why do you think CZ type guns are so short compared to other manf? I realize there can be some accuracy gains by having rifling closer vs farther from the projectile, but is that why CZ's seem short throated? I was able to test my loads better yesterday and I've been out of the reloading for any serious pistol stuff since 2000. I'm still pretty meticulous and use a newly setup Dillon RL550, Lee dies, mixed range brass, win wsp, lee tipsy scale 3 bullets: MG 124 JHP, MG 124 RN/CMJ, Berry's 115 gr RN 2 Powders: Hodgdon CFE pistol and Hodgdon Titegroup I won't waste your time with all the details of each. Accuracy: -Surprisingly, the MG 124 CMJ seemed to print closer to a 2 inch group at 25 yds that the MG JHP 3 inch grp with either CFE or Titegroup. The CFE load with MG 124 CMJ seemed to be the best accurate load for me but only by a little over the Titegrp. Both loads were running 1020 to 1050 fps with the shorter OAL JHP's running more at 1050 fps and longe OAL CMJ's running closer to 1020 fps. Both MG bullets had same charge of Titegrp powder (3.8 gr) and CFE powder (4.6 gr). The CFE at 4.6 gr (1020 fps avg) needs to be bumped up .1 or .2 gr to get a solid match PF above 130. I likely should sort, use the same brass brand, length could have made the test a little better since the FPS spread out of 5 rounds seemed to be a 40 fps spread with some rounds withing 5-20 fps which is tolerable, but always one or 2 that make the speed spread 20-40 fps and I'm sure 40 fps or more can string the grouping. -Berry's 115 loads at 1150 fps seemed to print at 25 yds satisfactory for a coated bullet, still around 3 inch grp and only a hair worse than the MG's. I just can't make myself pay the same money for Berry's locally as I could get MG in bulk for the same price. The MG JHP's seemed to cycle fine at the range at 1.075 OAL, but since the MG CMJ's print just as good, I'll go with RN reliability for now until I can get the throat reamed.

Finally got my reloading items in and tried to reload some Mon Gld 124 JHP's today w/titegroup powder. I've seen that many CZ's may have to load short for hollow points and esp MG's HP, but when I loaded a proper finished bullet at 1.100 OAL, the bullets hit the rifling and slide won't close. I said not prob, and loaded 15 finished rounds (minus primers & powder) at 1.055, 1.070, 1.080, and 1.090 and it seems on my gun the MG 124 hp needs to be 1.085 or less to ensure bullet ogive is not jamming into the rifling/throat. What I don't like is all of these bullets seemed to hand cycle at med/med fast rate much rougher than RN loads (slightly inherent) and several jammed half way into the chamber which is not what I'd expected. It's not much better with shorter MG hp bullets OAL down to 1.055 either. The roundnose stuff was hand cycle and range use very well and this was the first w/hp's. I even did a fairly drastic feed ramp polish and decent extractor polish/contour and only helped a little. It seems to me the HP's need to be a longer OAL at 1.100 or longer to feed smoothly, but I have no way to prove it right now since any OAL longer tha 1.095 or so is too long to run more than one rd at a time from a mag. I plan to have it sent back after Noveske multigun and get the throat only extended a little. And, yes I did check crimps and thats not the issue. Most factory RN stuff is 1.140 to 1.150 OAL and cycles smooth. The chamber seems to be proper depth. I only shot about 15 of the MG's and I may shoot the MG RN for the match since I don't want to risk the HP's for now. I know some say it doesn't matter how they hand cycle, but do they shoot at the range, but I'm a firm believer that a smooth hand cycling pistol cycles smoother & more reliable at eye blink speed and esp if not a 2 hand firm hold ie..strong/weak hand. I think I'll be good once I get the throat extended a little. I did run some CFE powder and here are some appx's: CFE pistol powder, 3.7 gr-124 MG JHP, OAL 1.070, 900 fps 4.1 gr-124 mg jhp, oal 1.070, 1000-1020 (I think, have to look at #'s wrote at home) 4.5 gr, 115 gr berry's RN, OAL 1.130, 1200 fps This was a quick check and will do a more detailed load/speed report w/#'s and avg's soon w/CFE. CFE seems to shoot well, recoil ok & accuracy at 25 yds was baseball size for berry & MG, cfe does have more of a charcoal black soot/snot vs the gray powder dryish residue that I'm used to. My guess is around 4.5-5.0 gr will make 130-135 pf.

Makes sense, I guess it really isn't designed to eject a bird load and insert a slug now that I think about it but more so someone in the field/hunter could just unload the chamber only and keep shells in the tube if they wanted. I guess as I get use to it, it does have an advantage for 3 gun and throwing in a slug in the chamber and then can throw one into the tube for multiple slugs reqd in between bird load targets. It makes me wonder how this will play out if I need to eject a problem round that doesn't chamber quite so or go bang I suppose but I guess I'll already have pulled the trigger to find that out in most cases. Tks

Is there a site to view or print the appx stage designs/layouts yet. tks

I shot some low recoil rio slugs today (1200 fps) out to 100 yds and with the Hi Viz taller front fiber & low prof rear adj fiber it shot real well, 3 shot group had 2 shots real close and a 3rd shot that made the group go from a 3 inch group to about 5-6. I also shot at 25 yds with the rio low rec slugs and some federal low recoil slugs and the federal were a lot hotter it felt like even though they say 1200 fps on the box. The Feds also shot lower by 2 inches at 25 yds I think because they were faster. The rio & fed slugs shot about the same point of impact as my herters & estate 1200 fps 7.5 oz bird loads on paper as well at 15-25 yds. I do see where some could say the gun feels kinda slow on cycling but not like I'm good enough to out run it by any means for a while. So far I'm leaving in the smaller inner spring behind the shell catch unless I start to have issues. I wonder if this slows the cycling down? I'm a little confused on the operation of the versa compared to the mossberg if some could explain this: Why if you have a loaded tube & chamber, when rack the slide the live round ejects but no round comes out of the tube onto the lifter unless the trigger is pulled? I believe it was designed to function this way for a purpose ie...to swap a birg load to a slug in the chamber? My mossber doesn't work this way is why I asked. I'm on squad 10 I believe at the Noveske Area 2 if you want to look, chat, inquire about my versa comp. Shouldn't be hard to find since it looks like thread pics.

The replacement x2 extd choke got here from Briley and it fits much better. Whew! was sweating that one hoping it wasn't a barrel issue.

For those that cringe when transporting your shotgun & 3 guns and most mags for pistol & rifle in a vehicle and have to stop along the way. I use the Plano model 108191 All Weather™ Double Scoped Rifle/Shotgun Wheeled (not the same size as the one I saw at Wal Mart, it's bigger and then use the 2 keyed cable locks (master lock-python types) where the cable tip is same size on one end as cable and slides thru the keyed locking device. Lay the gun case across the back seat, thread cable ends thru the baby car seat belt metal rings of the back seat bottom, then under case, thru the gun case lock holes, back into the keyed lock & tighten. Some can use the rear floorboard or truck bed I'm sure. These 2 cable locks just stay in my mid size truck when not in use under the back seat so can easily lock cables around both sides of the case. Prevents a simple smash & grab and makes me feel a little better than just having them ready to carry away. Of course if one is equipped & intent theft proof it's not. These are both avail online, case is pretty hard and thick and under $150 delivered and cable locks appx $30-40 shipped. Any pelican types you can do the same. This may not work in a small economy car but mid size or full size vehicles should work. It's pretty heavy though w/no ammo, so be aware of that. This case fits my shotgun, rifle (adj stock version), and my pistol along w/2 rifle & 3 pistol mags. It's the best "budget" hard case I've seen without going pelican prices. Just wish it had lock points on the rear hinge area would make it a little more secure.

Or even some anti-seize. I keep a stick of anti-seize in the range bag, kind of like a chap stick or glue stick. Works great. Will also keep them from corroding. Huh!, Tks Mark, never thought of using grease or anti seize on the choke and my lips. Likely Tastes bad but one less thing to carry. I haven't gotten the new briley x2 pro bore choke in to see if my first one was just rough or not and found they just sent it out 2 days ago so hopefully get it by Sat or Mon & it goes in no problem. Briley said I could send the barrel in if the next one is hard to install and they can see what's up. I hope that doesn't have to happen. The black extended ones that came with the versa comp go in no problem. I'm crossing my fingers.

Yes, that is one way to remove it but, I disagree that you need to remove the bushing to remove the guide rod by the intended accu or other cz 75 design. If that were the case the guide rod should not be a tapered point and be recessed behind the end cap/bushing thingy and would stick out the end of the gun like my STI w/full length guide rod and should be longer if that were the intention. The 1911 with a 2-piece full guide rod that actually sticks out the end or flush with the end of the bushing/front of the slide, maybe.

I received the new fore end without the rubber stickers but wanted to see how stippling would do on the orig forend. I used a larger tip this time and I like the small pointed tip better, but by the time I was finished stippling my Mossberg jm pro with the pointed tip, I wanted to stick the solder iron in my brain because it was so boring and tedious, the fine point tip took me 3 hours and the flat round larger tip, maybe 1 hr. The rubber stickers actually can be stippled lightly (as soon as smoke shows, rubber is stippled) and I like the grip of it better than the factory smoothish rubber grip. Used a soft sanding sponge/block and then some 2000 grip to clean off the rought edges on the stippling. I'm pretty much all done. Gun is functioning well and now can concentrate on practice, well I'm not going to practice that much. I can now enjoy shooting instead of troubleshooting. Note: Benny has mentioned the double spring in the shell catch/stop and removing the smaller diameter inner one to improve cycling/feeding. I see what he's talking about now. There is a lot of pressure from the shell catch as it tilts & as the shell cycles out of the tube to go back on the lifter and if you either cut the shell loading tube spring to short, to weak or use real light loads and your gun starts to feel "slow" or the shell doesn't quite come all the way out the tube, this may be the "extra drag" on the shell. I haven't had any issues yet during live fire and only notice this during slower hand cycling. The shell catch seems pretty smooth on the sides so I don't think that's the issue. Kinda lame that you have to use 2 springs as the design and they couldn't find a single spring to use, but maybe in this case it give us the ability to tweek it versus hunting down a new spring.

I just had to slightly shorten/grind/polish the overall front pointed area of the guide rod some more and now it fits normal. Never had to grind away a guide rod before for fitment. My choice to modify to a heavier hammer spring is to shoot the harder tula/herters primers and this helped them fire reliably, so they should work on any primers now. I don't shoot a lot of the tula/herters, but 9mm is just showing up on shelves recently. Remember some accu shadows may or may not have any issues with harder primers and may even be able to go lower pd springs. If you start having a couple out of 50 rds going click, you'll know you need to either put a new spring in yourself or stick with federal primers.

While I agree with some of the statements and I've stated that I'm not saying this is a bad gun to purchase. What I disagree with is the "Versamax Competition Tactical" versus the regular versa tactical or any other shotgun is, the competition tactical model was advertised as a "lifter developed for 3-gun/quicker reloading versus other previous lifter designs". There is no excuse for a 3-gunner or just a skeet shooter or bird hunter that qualifies the lifter on this gun to be made this way except that remington was to stupid or to lazy to design a lifter for the intended purpose they advertised. The other issue I have is some remington versa folks "knew" last summer from reviews of gun magazines types and gun testers online "whom remington likely" asked them to review the gun and the reviewers stated they told remington the lifter was to short and appears remington folks told some reviewers per online reviews they planed to fix it before production hits general public. It wouldn't put it past them that they in fact built a longer version later and either made it to straight when lengthened and it cause feed issues, or didn't want to spend the time/money to make it right, or some business proposition thought people & businesses could buy them from remington and they make money by shops modifying them or screwing them up, hence resale. Whatever the reason, the advertised lifter is not what they said it would be. Second item is the shell stop/shell catch thing: If I wasn't trying to do 3-gun, I'd still be upset with the excessive pressure and scraping brass off the case & poor reloading a shell into the tube issue. Maybe mine was worse than some, but I've seen to many compaints of this scattered all over the place with at least the versa tactical and still the competition tactical. There is no excuse for such a rough cut item that makes a shell require as much pressure to insert a shell into the tube. I've only shot 1 or 2 other shotguns in 20 years prior (shot someone elses) and never had that issue before. Nor did my JM Pro feel near this tough to load a shell (My JM had many other major issues though). With only a few months time & overall shotgun experience, if I worked or was in charge of and had the ability to influence or make either the JM Pro or Versamax, I would make many of the gun items better for a wider audience and for sure the lifter & shell catch, foreend contour & grips, stock would have extension ability from 13-16 LOP instead of 14.5 to 15/16 inch LOP, load port as in my pics, but that's me. Instead it's left up to guys that know shotguns and work designing & building guns, yet can't or won't do it right. If you work on/make/test guns all day, someone in that dept should notice and say hey (this is not to good) and could be fixed or reduce the issue somewhat already instead of slow leaking it along or never fixing it. Two of these items were not a "picky" items on my gun, they sucked. Team shell catch with the lifter and I don't care if you do 3 gun or not it was noticable not right to load shells slow one at a time. Be like if Firestone always sold you their best set of tires and 1 out of 4 tires, you buy em and find one is always oval. No prob will just grind em down and hope I don't go to far.

Might be a good idea for 1st timers (me) to check the front edge for straightness first then do a little and then install the shell catch into the gun and insert a shell into a funtional tube w/spring and make sure it's level. Mine was a little canted according to the shell in the tube and bottom half of the shell catch was further into the tube area than the top half ie..with gun upside down, the shell stop seemed to stick out more at the lifter that the top of the receiver and I almost took to much off the top half. It looked like I took off even amounts when it was out of the gun, so maybe installed it's bent/canted a little and was causing some of the extra stiffness in the beginning. I think I could also have checked it for straigtness before starting and it looks like if I need to could tweek it by slight twisting of the front section. Now that I think about it, the shell stop didn't seem to be canted early on and may just seem it's the shell stop but could be due to the smoothing of the inner corners and juction of the shell tube/receiver junction humps I did as well. I need to look closer, but eithe way look for this before & after you start the shell catch or deburring of the tube/receiver section. I certainly hope it was not from trying to unload the live shells by pushing in on the shell catch.

In the Box of stuff that Came with your comp, there should have been a little package that includes a little tab that you stick under the F/O tube. This allows you to remove it... it also should have come with a spare white tube as well as a red tub (if the green was installed, or vice versa if the red was one there.) Check the box, its a tiny little bag... as you know the box is a nightmare, so call Remington if your's didn't come with this stuff, they are pretty good about getting replacement parts out. Mine was missing the 2 shot extension, after a call, I had mine within the week. Thanks, I'll check my bag of goodies and see if the extra FO is in there. Are you saying the FO is reusable? I was under impression you had to push it (FO) out of the holder and this would make it to short to use again. Maybe I should have read the directions? I just see a screw under the front section of FO that holds front sight to rib. Does the tab break the FO or just go around it to get to the screw?

I headed to the range yesterday for first time since installing the C-Rums extended lifter. I tried to install a newly ordered light mod, extended, stainless color, briley choke (oredered direct from Briley) into the barrel and go figure, it wouldn't screw in. I tried going backwards until it clicked then screwed it in and at best could get it to screw in, but was way to tight after only 3 full turns as far as finger tightening. I figure no use in forcing it and would have required a lot of tourque to install an stopped. After many attempts, I had to put in the remington black, extd pro bore, LM choke back in. Called Briley and Remington and Briley said their chokes are pretty tight tolerance and sometimes remington's barrels are off and remy will tweek their barrels to make chokes fit. Remington said "that's funny, since Briley makes the remington model black ext pro bore chokes for us that came w/your gun". Briley is sending me a new choke. I hope it was just a bad cut. The Briley ext version says "pro bore" on the side of it, but it did seeam a little more snug sliding in before the threads start. Briley is sending me another one to try. Jeeeez The gun ran appx 70 more rds reliably and the load 2's and load 4's and singles feeding was good. I'm also going to order a new forend (w/o the rubber tape) from remy so I can stipple it. I believe it's the sportsman model forend that doesn't have the rubber sticker grips. I did have to tighten the 2 shot ext tube joint coupler nut (the remington +2 carbon extension) every 20-30 rds but not real loose or a big concern. I haven't put on the carbon arms +2 yet, wanted to see if the carbon starts to pit on the remy version and taste it on my fingers since carbon is so good for you. No big deal but for sights, If you plan on replacing the rear sight with a tru glo or hi viz and keeping the front that comes with the versa comp, make sure it's a version that can mount low or you'll be shooting high unless you have the rear sight down pretty low or replace the front sight with a taller version. I really like the smallness of the tru glo rear adj that I used on my mossberg jm pro, but the front sight that comes on the versa comp tact has the screw underneath the fiber optic, so to remove it or tighten it, seems I'd destroy the F/O and I don't have a spare F/O for the front sight that came w/the versa comp tac. Hi vis should have made all their mounting parts metal in my opinion. The plastic, thin primary cage that mounts over the rib is fairly close in width and fit but then with multiple metal caps on top & bottom of that are ok but they sandwich around the plastic instead of metal which makes the systems weak point IMO and if top side takes a good hit upon dumping could shift the left/right sight in. The primary left/right adjustment is the long piece that's held by 2 of the rear screws which must be loosened and then tightened down. I put the Hi Viz rear on to try and I don't like looking thru the vertical frame slots on the sides of the rear sight. These are also the same slots on either side the act as the elev adj and slide back and forth under the middle portion of the sight (kinda like wings sticking straight up. Tru glo version rear has a fairly small rear sight compared to the hi vis and adj left/right by loosening a tiny allen screw and shifting the rear sight portion only left/right in the sight base and has one screw to adj up/down that sticks thru the rear half of the sight assy and the screw moves against the rib moving the rear sight half up/down and is all metal with front metal plates that sandwich around top/bottom of rib which is nice and has less parts and all metal, but the plates that fit around top/bottom of rib are not specific (seems general purpose sized to fit wider & not so wide ribs) around rib and could allow impact to shift the whole side side to side (but would require a decent hit on side of sight). I really like the taller front dual color fiber front sight with the adj rear. The item that could be better is the small allen head screws which once you put much pressure on the hex key, your gonna round off one or the other with to much pressure. Would rather just have slotted screws like on the hi viz.

My intent of this forum is not to deter anyone from buying the versa comp model. I am somewhat happy with the decision to buy this gun. I am a picky person when it comes to paying for an item when I know what the design "should" do and the to me at times "quite obvious" flaws and oversights or pure lack of design and testing is a pet peeve of mine. Like many would agree, there are many custom pistols, rifles, and shotguns that will have some issues and some that will not. Many people buy gun x and have no issues and others buy them and they have problems. In general the custom shops tend to pay closer attention to detail should have better outputs w/less problems than the manufacturer. I've posted reviews on guns before and mentioned the gun jammed a few times and some people see that and instantly think "I'm not buying that jamomatic" or feel the need to post "I've shot every kind of ammo thru mine and runs flawless" as if because their is good, they all must be good. Different people doing the work, calibrated equipment, forming issues, curing, etc can lead to strings of guns that will work great and have issues (factory or custom). It's like some people who stated they had "jams/malfunctions" because the stock wasn't fitted to them, I disagree. I personally shoot all my guns to make sure they do not barf if I shoot weak hand, from the hip, or my wife might shoot it. What I try to do is ensure the gun design and functionality & ammo are good and analyze any changes or ammo and "why" the changes could cause and issue. Now if these posts steer you to buy a benneli, ok, but if this post makes you buy a rem tactical instead, realize that the tactical also needs some things to make it great and is not a huge price difference from the price of a competition model once you add some of the few extras that comp model has ie...one piece tube, rear sight. The lifter part being correct would have been nice, different comb inserts, adj stock LOP good for long arms. The one item that matter above all else for me is reliability. Functional setup for my personal tastes, second and if easily done by people with basic tools is an unfortunate part of the game. Both would great but tough to meet everyones fit, taste, and builds. Although if may seem I'm against the versa comp, I'm not "yet". Time will tell. It did run out of the box and that is a key positive compared to my last shotgun. The "nicety" items to make it shoot better, faster, or smoother I choose do on my own to save money is good if you feel you can. My inputs for now on the versa comp will hopefully keep some from being as disappointed if they do buy this gun without this info, or help some people to go forth and buy this gun because they have a leg up on how to tackle some of the problem areas and feel it's tolerable, Nothing more.

There are possible changes in cycling once you have the lifter extended. I noticed mine seems to throw the shell much higher during hand cycling now, hence the reason you notice there may be a slight curve starting at the extension point toward the end. You may need to either create a small curve in the middle of the last 1/1 to 3/4 inch or even slight bending up or down of the last 1/2 to 3/4 inch, or slight take down or sanding of the left or right inside fork at the last 1/2 to 1 inch inside front side edges. which area is determined by, is the shell throwing to far left/right, up/down (likely throwing to high/high angle or nose dive), or now hitting the extractor cut edge.

I installed the C-Rums lifter and painted the big scar on the trigger guard from the grinder. I have to hit the shell stop assy on the top half one more time to get the load 2/4 a little less grippy. I still have to send my other spare lifter off to get extended. Hope to handle the gun more instead of working on it this next week or 2.

I need to correct a previous post where I mentioned Triangle shooting's product "the shiny replacement benneli lifter would be to short for the versa comp model" was actually pictured on Taran Tactical website page. sorry Mr Hill.

A word of caution since my orig post on doing the load port expansion. In the pics of my orig load port opening I angled the front portion of the load port away from the shooter towards the front of the gun. This is incorrect. You want to open up ie...shift the front load port opening forward but don't angle the opening away (angle the opening back toward the shooter) Open the port almost to the section where the shell tube meets the receiver around 1/8 inch or a little more so your thumb doesn't have to go up/into the shell tube to much. Just make sure you angle the front load port back towards the the rear of the gun/toward the shooter. If you don't you will likely find during load 2 & load 4 that the second shell tends to ride up and jam against the front load port cut. I salvaged it a little and now know I need to correct this better on the mossberg. Hey, gimme a break, it was my first shotgun. Other than the lifter weld up that I can't do, from pics I've seen my work looks top notch for a rookie. If I'm unable to post the pic of my mossberg and the better port job I did on my versa comp here, just look at the diff on my versa competition post and you'll see what I'm talking about. PS I also suggest for load 2/4 you may like removing some of the material in front of the trigger as in the versa pic. This allows the 2 shells to lie straighter as you start your load. I had this mod on my orig trig assy but since mossberg replaced my trigger assy, I haven't done it to this one yet.

Sure would be nice if someone could post or send me a pic or 2 of a "properly" (not guess work attempt) modded extractor cut area on the versamax barrel for me. I'm curious to know if you angle and smooth out the inside of the barrel/extractor cut ie...ramp outwards from chamber and/or cut the whole extractor opening forward towards the front of the gun or what? In trade for my hopefully helpful posting & pics? Just want to do the mod to prevent the occasional shell from jamming into it since the extractor area is pretty large area in comparison to non rotating bolt systems.

So, I take it the remington brand pro bore chokes are not as good as briley or carlsons? What I'm trying to determine is if I should replace them. I'm no shotgun choke expert at all, but I'll use them if they work well, but don't want to spend $150 on 3 new chokes if these are just as good or make little difference. One thing that bugs me is on my JM pro w/briley ext chokes & this versa 3-gun model w/rem pro bore ext chokes is the chokes come loose appx every 10-20 rds on both guns & diff brand chokes even if I tighten them pretty hard w/choke wrench. Is this common with everyone's shotguns?

Spent 3 more hours on the versa comp today and all I need now is the other lifter that is at C-Rums getting extended. I'm proud of my work considering it's my second ever shotgun work all in past 5 months. You can't see from the pics but I also smoothed out the receiver where the shell tube meets since there were little humps at the 10, 2, 4, and 8 o'clock sections. I'm not going to do anything to the trigger since forums and experts lean that it's not a great system to lighten up much without potential for drawbacks. I put a high viz adj rear on the back of the rib also. Dang, I sent my lifter out Tues noon and just got an email fro Jeff/C-Rums my mod lifter is hitting the mail back today, that's quick. I did real good not bugering up any areas until the last part and got lazy and put a few nicks on front of trigger guard grinding down the front part of trigger housing by the rear of carrier. I was holding the lifter out of the way instead of taking it off. I also included a pic of a very rough surface in the chamber, just forward of where a loaded shell would sit. This was exactly like this from the factory and looks the same after appx 80 rds and after a bore scrub w/brush & solvent cleaning. It seems to have a slight look of rings on a big tree if you cut a tree down. I think it's a bad cut of the barrel. I also noticed after cleaning, pushing a 6x6 strip of thin cloth from the rear, it goes from loose fit first 2-3 inches, to tight right around this rough section, stays tight until just prior to internal choke point I think, then loose again, and tight inside the last part of the choke. Should I just not worry about it? Notice the 2nd pic is not my versa but of my JM Pro load port at the front is where I mentioned prev that DIY load port mod, you need to cut outward on the sides of the load port, but the front needs to angle back towards the back of the gun or else your 2nd round of a load 2 or 4 could jam against the top edge, well did for me anyway. I need to actually undercut the Mossberg front port back towards me more. I would like to get a little larger profile bolt handle. I kinda liked the one on my JM Pro, not to sharp/just rough checkering. I wonder why they made the versa one rotate? Is it to keep it from being pulled out of the bolt when racking? Any ideas?

Here are a few pics of my shell stop (sorry forgot to do a before pic) on the versa comp and a pic of the foregrip tapered down to less than 1/8 inch thick at the edges and pic of my cut down LOP stock. I'm no a big fan of reaming out the the 2 half circles just behind the shell catch end to allow the shell stop to flex for now. The shell stop mod is close but not 100% yet. Doing a little at a time. I prefer a polishing wheel (kinda like a pencil eraser material w/gritty stuff in it. If you saw my mossber 930 JM Pro forum and you use a dremel or want to do good polishing buy the 50 piece kit on amazon in the orange case w/3 types of polishing grits & several shapes. These will give a much smoother and quicker finish and better contours than files & sandpaper, for me anywho. On the foregrip, I may still cut out the top section where you see the marker outline, but I won't realy know until I get a decent lifter to use. I called a few places today on versa competition model lifter mod. I suggest you talk to Triangle Shooting and C-rums and determine options/price for which place to have your lifter extended. It seems that both places will mostly remove the hump when they extend the lifter. More lifter info to ponder related to the versa's & competition model: -no need to order a versa competition model lifter for your tactical model, it will be a thumb trap (you can see how short in pics below). Just weld up what you have. -benelli lifter or after market lifters will still be to short from what I've heard for comp model ie..the nice shiny one on triangle sports page -I think if you extend the lifter the skeleton slot/opening in middle of lifter should also be extended to equal out the weight addition a little. -I think the "hump" on the comp model could have merit to guide the shell into the chamber and maybe prevent some of the front shells jamming into the extractor cut of the barrel, but maybe instead of the hump, some small nipples on the inside of the front edge of the lifter or a less pronounced/width of the hump. You'd think the typical underside lifter legs should be contoured to guide the shell without all of this if they are leveled and even, hmmmmm. Next is the load port opening in the next week hopefully. I think I'm going to have to remove some of the foregrip on the bottom but not much, maybe 1/2 inch notch long by 1 inch wide. What are people's thoughts on the remington pro bore extended chokes? Any reason to get brileys over these or are pro bore good enough?

6/24/14-I finally fired the gun today. I shot 30 rds at the trap range just to break the gun in (rules of the range only allow one round at a time in the gun). I then went to the pistol range that allows me to shoot shotguns and loaded the tube full w/10 +1 and put 60 rds downrange and had zero malfunctions. I shot 7.5 shot, 1 oz loads rem somthing at 1290 fps per the box and the herters targe 1 1/8oz 7.5 shot at 1200 fps. The shot pattern at 20 yds was from dead center to the right using the front fiber w/rear sight that came on the rib, so I assume needs a tweek left, but will see how slugs pattern. Recoil seemed pretty good, and a little less violent that the JM Pro, but to be fair need to shoot em both side by side. Dang that puke green receiver color is hard to love. Oh well, as long as it functions. Items done so far: -shell stop 2nd attempt, I took it out and radiused the back/inside curve (towards the shooter if shouldering) with a half inch wide bullet shaped polishing bit a little more while still keeping a flatish portion on the forward side and also broke the corners a little more on the back side (toward the shooter) this helped the loading of shells into the tube, but it's only about 80% of what I think it should feel like, but it's better. The crap lifter stills makes me gun shy slamming any load 2's or 4's. I gotta get this lifter extended soon. -reduced the stock LOP w/removal of appx 3/4 inch of rear plastic, put on low profile limbsaver pad and now have 12 1/2 LOP. Note: Don't cut more than 3/4 inch off the stock or the top screw will be going to far into the rubber comb insert area, hence reducing a good stock section for screw to hold. You could actually get a 13 5/8 LOP just by grinding down a low profile limbsaver pad and not cutting off any stock, but the screw holes a hair off so one screw hole in the limbsaver pad needs to be pushed 1/8 inch wider from the other. -grinded down the foregrip rear and sides tapered to almost flush around the loading port, but if I need to I can cut out the bottom of the foregrip and taper if need be. The key to the rear foregrip mod for doing load 2/4 is to get a good taper down to the receiver versus just cutting 1/2 to 1 inch sections off the rear/sides leaving thick, blunt steep ledges left like I've seen some do. This was not something you could do for the JM Pro to me becasue the forend had to much of a gap and also had another plastic spacer under rear of forend. The versa has lots of just bare receiver under the foregrip, but also remember the primary mount for the barrel loackup/stability is only the carbon tube & tube nut and the foregrip against the back receiver & bottom of barrel just like Mark @Carbon arms mentioned in one of the versa topics. I still need to open the loading port width and forward slightly (make sure to keep the same undercut or during load 2/4 the second shell might jam if you don't leave a rear upward funnel cut on the front receiver at tube junction going up and "towards" you (kinda reverse ramp versus the side load port widening. I did this on my JM Pro and luckily had enough metal left to salvage it. Still need to work on a couple little humps in the corners of the load port and the tube junction areas. I can't get any shells to come out of the tube unless I hand cycle each round to the chamber and then back out. This is because the shells don't want to come out over the hump on front of lifter and/or combo of that & the little humps at tub/receiver junction at the 10, 2, 4, 8 oclock sections. I have a spare trigger assy w/lifter to send of to triangle or rose action for lifter mod and maybe a trigger job. I'm not a huge fan of the versa foregrip, it just seems to have to many different contours and grips between front & back and prefer to have one contour the whole length of the grip. I find myself not sure to hold it on the back half or front half or right in the middle which is where it feels like 2 different contours in the middle. I will try to post a few pics of the shell stop & foregrip & stock in a few days. I'm trying to take pics of some items in a before & after if I remember to. If you know someone who needs a JM Pro in CO I have mine for sale (local only) but I will say I'm torn on wether to keep it as a spare or not, but could use the money for other gun related stuff. I wonder if Triangle Sports will leave the hump on the comp model lifter or remove it when they extend it and can they just modify the lifter or do they need the whole gun?