TheDarkOne

1. Is the Nordic friendly on the hands? I read in a review that it was sharp. 5. I does not have to be reloaded, I have for seen it with 6. When it does happen, after a few failed attempts, and pushing the rounds into the tube, it finally kicks them out. I am wondering if it could be resolved with one of the mods that have been discussed; SureCycle, deburring, etc. Not sure if it is bent; I have only had it apart once.

Hopefully this is not hijacking since it is related to mods. 1. Nordic or Briley on the bolt handle? Briley looks more comfortable, Nordic looks more stylized. Anyone had experience with both, and would like to compare and contrast? Another photo of the Briley might help as well. One thing thing I hate about the stock bolt handle is how sharp the damn thing is. The first day shooting trap, I had a failure to cycle, hurried to rack another round in but slipped off, which filleted my finger wide open. In fact this whole gun seems to be full of sharp edges. It makes me wonder what they were thinking what some of these gun makers are thinking when making this stuff. 2. Is the Nordic 'big button' a drop in piece? Is it black like pictured above, or has that been 'blacked'? 3. Why has FN installed and chinese finger trap where you put the shells. Has anyone else had their fingers gobbled by this thing? Holy shit, you get your finger too far inside the tube and it does not want to give it back. Really, who tested this thing and gave it the A-OK? Is the solution to just file the gate? It seems like the inside of the tube is a little sharp as well, but don't want to get carried away filing things down and screw up the functionality. 4. A problem I have occasionally, is getting the 8th round to seat in the tube. It hits a 'wall' and wont click in. If I push on it repeatedly, it usually will work in enough to click, but has caused some malfunctions and slow reloads. Has anyone else had this? Solution? 5. Another problem I have had is when I load the tube, I can't get the action to pull them out when charging the handle. I can sit there and rack back and forth, but they just sit there in the tube. It is like the spring inside is just not pushing them out to be picked up by the feed ramp. Anyone? Solution?

Looks very professional. May I ask how you kept it at an exact angle and so even from front to back? I am afraid if I tried this it will end up looking like Doug's. No offense Doug.

Looks like the Nordic bolt handle http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=186537 I have one on my SX2, works great So is this the one pictured above? Are these drop in pieces, or do they need to be tapped like mentioned before?

Its a 5" Sprinfield TRP. The actual diameter of the bullet and OAL may play a factor as well, but I am new to this reloading business so I don't really know. Titegroup is pretty hot powder either way.

It was definitely 4.8, but way too hot. I didn't chrono it, but the lead streaking is evidence of this. The events I shoot are pretty lax on power factor, so I usually just load to the minimum recommendations. As long as it cycles, I'm happy. In this case, however, I have had to go under and do a little experimenting. Like I said, 3.8 cycles great; even weak hand trying to limp wrist it a bit. I really don't know what is going on???

I picked up some titegroup for the first time the other day, and am struggling to dial in right now. What is your 'recipe'? I am using 200gr LSWC, and Remington primers. I loaded the minimum 4.8 to start, but the were very hot. After cleaning the lead out of the inside of my barrel, and some internet research, I loaded some, 3.8, 3.9, 4.0, and 4.1. All cycled perfectly fine and had a nice soft recoil. I am wondering if the 4.8 was a typo, and they really meant to put 3.8, because I bet I could even go lower. Any thoughts on this?

I just ordered the CED7000. It had good reviews, good features, was less money, looks well put together, and it comes in tacticool black. For personal use, I am sure they would all be good options.

I have een research timers again. The only place I can find that sells PACT Mark IV's is Midway, but they are sold out. Customer comments there say they are not honoring their lifetime warranty. All this, and the fact that BE does not carry them anymore, has me wondering if they have gone down hill over the years. Any insight on this, or recommendation on which timer to get would be appreciated.

4.5 eh? I am new to reloading, so I have been putting in the minimum recommended 5.6 grain. I was curious if you could go lower, and how that would affect accuracy, and reliability. Any problems with 4.5 so far? Is that the lowest you can go, or lower. I would like to experiment with some lower charges but don't want to screw anything up.

185 FMJ? Do tell...

I am starting to reload now, so this is something that is on my mind as well. I would love to hear a more in depth analysis of the different bullet option and what they bring to the table; accuracy, velocity, recoil, energy on target, etc. rounds I am aware of: 185 LHP 200 LSWC 230 LRN 230 FMJ Anyone?

Do you think being able to shoot your carry gun with less than optimal grip is an important thing? Ya know, I think you have a point!

No, I a noob. I was just wondering if there was something out there you could point me to. If not, it's okay, I don't want you to put a lot of effort into it. Thanks either way.

2 questions... 1. As my comp gun is also my carry gun,(IWB 4 o'clock), is this a good idea? 2. Is there any post with good step by step instruction that you can direct me to, or is this something I should have a gun smith take care of?

The way I see it, this problem is due to taking a high grip with thumb on top of the safety. If I hold my thumb under the safety, it works just fine, which leads me to believe that the 1911 was not designed to hold thumb over. It seems there is a market for redesigned BTS to accommodate this higher hold on the gun, and it surprises me that no one has come up with anything yet. The built up GS is the best they have came out with, but it still needs improvement.

Sensitize it is. Thanks for the insight guys.

Duane, is the TRP build-up equal to Ed Browns? http://www.edbrown.c...202133611863968 Or would his be better?

Thanks for the link. I thought I looked prior to posting, but I guess my search criteria was not adequate.

You'd think someone would have manufactured some aftermarket GS's for guys like us, they have had 100 years after all.

Is this what you are talking about? http://www.edbrown.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/002530.1.151202133611863968 If so, would I benefit from it since I am shooting a Springfield TRP (picture below)? http://www.gunshopfinder.com/springfield/PC9105LP.jpg

So I am not alone, good. My hands are not that big, so I was thinking that may be the reason. More on the topic... 1. I think this is slowing down my draw. Instead of coming up as soon as my hand hits the gun, I have to really press down on the gun to get a good solid grip. 2. I am having a problem with the gun staying elevated after a shot, which Brian says is due to tension in the grip. However, when I try to lighten up on the grip, the BTGS gets released, so I am not sure what to do. Disabling the BTGS would work, but that worries me a little. I figure it is there for a reason.

I use a high grip, thumb on top of my safety, which seems lighten the natural pressure applied to the BTGS. At times, I have a problem depressing the grip safety all the way, so when I go to shoot, nothing happens. The times I notice it the most when I am trying to draw quickly and don't get a good firm grip on the weapon. Has anyone else had the same problem, and are there any solutions like an extended grip safety or something?

I have noticed the same thing, but can't really tell you the why's behind it. The more I think, read, and shoot in regards to this topic, the more I realize there is really no 'right' way for every situation. It really just comes down to breaking the shot when you 'see' it. Whether that is pure target focus, pure front sight focus, or somewhere in between. Just be aware, and break the shot when you have enough information in your sight picture. One thing though, with rare exception, I always start with pure target focus; where it goes from there just depends on that situation.