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Posts posted by Bill Sahlberg
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The original 627 8 shot 5" bbl was S&Ws best gun. It shoots so many different cases well and full moon clips make reloading a breeze!
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If your cylinder is shorter you will have excessive loss of speed due to the cylinder being greater than the Factory .0006"...
We tried this in the 1970s with our PPC 38 Specials machining the cylinders shorter so that the 148 gr HBWC would almost be flush and have less bullet jump to the forcing cone making better accuracy.
It didn't work as we also had to turn down the 6" barrels, rethreading them to screw in further and keeping that .0006" gap.
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Nope! But also remember the 9MM is a tapered case but not the 38SC so you may be able to ream your 929 cylinder but why?
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When was the gun mfg? Older guns never had issues. Newer guns as mentioned above use MIM parts (metal injection molding or powdered metal)
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9mm is a tapered case and the 327s & 627s are machined for straight wall cases...
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I am certain that nobody has ever made full moon clips for a Colt as even the cylinder release is too slow for opening to reload...
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23 hours ago, DukeSoprano said:
I have a 627 in 38 Super and TK Smith & Wesson 929 9mm OEM Moon Clips STD B/S, work perfectly with almost all brands of brass.
I have a totes full of brass and don't even sort it, sometimes I get a round that is too loose and I just toss into a box to shoot out of my 1911s
I always get my own brass back since its attached to the full moon clips. I have reloaded the 38 Colt short 25+ times with a small amount of split cases...
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On 2/6/2024 at 4:02 PM, gargoil66 said:
OK:
I tried Bill's advice of using an undersized die for .38 Super and that will work except that the moon clips for the Super are too thick for the 627-5. Cylinder won't close. So I tried .38 Super Comp brass which is dimensionally smaller than standard .38 Super +P. Problem was the moon clips that fit .38 Super are way too big for the Super Comp. The Super Comp brass will fall out of the moon clip.
So I sent the cylinder of my V Comp to TK and they reamed it out for .38 Super. Kind of a pisser because I scored a 625-4 and called TK to cancel about one day too late. So now I have two revolvers chambered for Super. The Super is bigger than .38 Special or its various cousins so when you shoot a .38 Spl in a Super chamber, the base of the brass bulges out to an extent that about half of them won't size down enough to easily go into a .38 Spl chamber anymore.
If you want your cylinder opened up to Super, do yourself a favor and send it to TK. You will have it back in a week and it will be perfect. Easiest and in the long run least expensive way of turning a .38 Spl into a .38 Super.
I think my big issue with .38 Super is the moon clips. I have Starline and RP .38 Super brass and Starline .38 Super Comp brass. Both the Starline and RP .38 Super seem to have a good number of pieces that are extremely hard to seat into the TK moon clips I have. And I have checked the moon clips and found them to be just fine in size. Its the brass that isn't as uniform as I would have expected.
GG
My Brownell's 38 Super full moon clips have fit all 5 of my 627s and cylinder closes as it should. Factory Starline 38 Super brass drops in with room to spare and ejects easily.
Reloads must use the undersized 38 Super die that George makes at EGW. (Been doing this since 1997) However, I mainly shoot 38 Colt Short (with 3/4" of freebore) because of no advantage to shooting Major.
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I shoot CCI 40 gr HPs, they are readily available and shoot very consistently.
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1 hour ago, Makicjf said:
What is the process and do you have the specs on the die?
I'd love to be able to load 38 super in my V-Comp for major pf.
I'm a 38 super dumby. Would 38 super comp brass be better for full power loads?
You've piqued my interest!
Jason
Just buy the EGW unersized 38 Super die and re-size all your loaded ammo -or- buy new 38 Super Starline brass and load it.
Both fit in ALL my 627 cylinders and extract easily.
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Reaming of your 627 cyinder is not necessary to shoot 38 Super 'IF' you size them properly with the EGW undersized die (-.0002) or use new Starline Brass.
I have Brownells 38 Super Full Moon Clips that work great with my Starline brass.
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This would create another revolver division and we already are the smallest USPSA shooting division...
Iron Sight (Ltd Revo)
Optics (Open Revo)
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In the 1st year of shooting my 627, I sent back one of my early 627s when Tom Kelly was the there for a broken trigger pin.
The RA came right away and it only took 2 weeks to get it back. I still believe all warranty work requires the entire gun back.
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Parts will not just drop in as you think. Be prepared to re-modify and re-smith many...
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The 929 with MIM parts is way more expensive to tune that the older 627s with forged steel parts.
Best to find an older 627 before they added the trigger lock system and MIM parts
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Never had this trouble with my competition 627s since 1996, but my guns were never as dirty as these pix!
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I use to use Win SPP but found that Federal SPP allow me to loosen just the strain screw and get a lifhter pull with 100% ignition! (thanks to an article I read from Clark Custom Guns from Jerry Miculek back in the 1980s)
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Hogue black rubber grips are the cats meow...
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I have dry-fired both frame & hammer firing pins since 1974 and never have had a problem...
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It is a modified Safariland that Charlie Prest made out of Phoenix, AZ
What would you build
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Love your idea but $1000 is just a 33% down payment now on the new S&W 327, only in 9MM