Jhp147

I change around every once in a while, but I seem to have settled on the black and gray Davidson Horned Lizards that everyone else seems to like.

Many years ago, I saw the damage from what I think was a 1050 tube detonation. The reloading room was inside an old insulated trailer that had been converted into a reloading area. I recall that the sheet metal ceiling 3 or so feet above it looked like it had taken a mini-shotgun blast. I don't recall for certain if any of it penetrated, but it looked like it. The rangemaster running the machine said he could only hear a loud ringing for a while after that. I bet it was really loud in that metal box! I recall seeing him run the machine with electronic muffs on at least once after that.

Too much of my shooting already appears to be blindfold assisted....

I remember reading in Jim Cirillo's book about how, after each Stake-Out Team qualification, he would post a list of shooters, highest to lowest score. Then, he'd draw a red line half way up the list. He said he was amazed how guys would fight to make sure they didn't fall below the red line. I think badges and things like that drive some people to some extent. I don't know if I'd wear a badge (unfortunately, my shooting speaks for itself...) but I do draw my own imaginary red line at matches. Pardon the drift, but the "what drives a shooter" seems to mesh in with it.

Guess I'll get the BE/BF book out and read that part, but a lot of the abstract stuff is TOUGH for me. I'm sort of a black and white, put it on paper, show me a diagram, physical mechanics, and video demo kind of personality. I'm just now grasping "shoot as fast as you can see." And thanks, BTW.

Question Is this more about mind-set or visualization or both? I know that competence breeds confidence, but that doesn't seem to help when I shoot SO much better (according to the timer and plate rack) with no one watching than with. Same, to some extent, in front of people in a match stage. I've found I shoot my best when I sort of "accidentally forget" that nobody is watching me on a stage. Just wish I could learn to call it out all the time.

They did tell us in an armorer's class not to run an ultrasonic on tritium sights more than "10 or 15 minutes." They didn't say what it would do, but I saw a post on another forum that said it would take out the adhesive between the tritium vial and the sight itself, making it fall out. No first hand experience.

I don't want a light rail on a gun, but aside from that, I think this article by Hilton Yam (also see his information about choice of magazines, recently updated) is very useful. I don't think he mentions STI in any way, but the Trojan or similar would be my choice if they'd let me carry a 1911 at work. the link http://www.10-8performance.com/id8.html Brent

Locally, the city health department-the same one that inspects restaurants-is responsible for making sure that food safety rules are followed. Perhaps your city/county health inspector could help, as a kitchen set up for catering locally has to follow essentially the same rules as a restaurant. That might even include not doing it at home, due to zoning ordinances for business vs. residential. My wife sells restaurant/catering equipment (in this area only, so no sales pitch) and I bet I can get a question answered for you if you have a couple.

Well, I was just rechecking my armorer's book to start some repairs on a 5904. Though I still recall the discussion with the instructor, I found that my handwritten notes say "Replace the recoil spring and magazine springs every 5 years or 5000 rounds, whichever comes first, but most guns will run a lot longer than that. This goes to timing issues-bolt over base or similar failures. There is no replacement schedule for firing pin spring." Maybe I was thinking about asking him about the FP spring. Hate to make a liar out of myself, that is what I get for depending on memory instead of notes, but there is nothing in the actual printed manual. Thought I better correct my error, and looks like you guessed right, PhotoRecon.

I really like the UA brand of Heat Gear type shirts, and the 5.11 brand of the same shirts for a couple of things. They are great to wear under body armor in the summer (no soaking wet cotton rag of shirt and accompanying odor at the end of a 100 degree summer day shift in a dark blue uniform). Also, they are nice and cool compared to other shirts when worn under the 5.11 vest (someday maybe I'll buy a lighter vest some day). Last, when the buzzer goes off, I don't reach and get a hand full of untucked shirt-stays tucked and tight to the skin. I didn't realize they had Polos, but man, those things are high and I wonder if they would cling close enough to stay tucked and keep the cloth out of my way when drawing? Having a collar would be a nice feature in the summer sun, though, I could get rid of my wild rag. As for it being RWR friendly...I poke my mags down my waist band, so I guess these don't matter. I've not had one fall out during a stage yet.

Yeah, we do, and that was what I was thinking of but I didn't really want to admit to being THAT cheap...but I am. I don't need anything fancy, but I didn't want to buy it and think it was a total waste. I'm going to check out the other links too.

Is there a cheaper but decent light duty/home and hobby type media blaster that is worth a darn for occasional or touch up work on stainless?

I know of at least one MD/match that checks them every year.

Two weeks later I see this but wanted to tap in that I was at Springfield Mass., for the S&W 3rd generation armorer's school in Dec. 2007. I asked the same question, for the same reason-everybody knows you change out 1911 recoil springs, nobody mentions others. The instructor, Dave Ducharme, shrugged his shoulders and said something like, "I dunno. Maybe 10,000 rounds?" When he saw my look of disbelief, he said that he had never heard of a S&W "recommended" interval for changing the springs, do it if the gun shows signs of not feeding related to the spring. I don't have my armorer's manual here, but it seems like there is a final function test involving pulling the slide back just a tiny bit with the muzzle up and making sure the spring would bring it into battery fully. I'd have to look that up to make sure. Here is what I think: They are cheap. Maybe a newer one prevents wear and tear...so I'll put one in if in doubt, or maybe a little before. How's that for science? Brent

Okay, I should have just used a bit of common sense and put in "blue Loc Tite" as it is BLUE. I was afraid it was some super-semi-secret Dillon product. At any rate, after taking your suggestion I did indeed find "Loctite 24200 Removable Strength Blue LocTite." Note "REMOVABLE" wording, which I didn't see originally because I was looking at the Loc Tite glue area. I used to have a Loc-Tite colors/applications table bookmarked, but couldn't find it. Thank you very much for the quick assistance.

I'll call Dillon Monday if nobody here knows, but I'd really wanted to get the press up before then. No luck on search for the terms. My SDB's #3 die got so packed with lead shavings and bullet lube (from some old lead SWC with lube all over them) that it started making the rounds really short. The lube was squirting up through the vent hole and clogged it, so I guess air was also getting trapped in above the bullet. At any rate, I took out the die and cleaned it. I cleaned the threading in the machine and realized too late that the blue stuff in THERE was supposed to be there. To make the die right/stay in place, I need to re-apply the sticky thread locker stuff. I checked Loc Tite's site, but was afraid that even the weakest of the stuff might be to much. Anyone know what I need to get to re-apply to the machine and correct my lesson learned? Many thanks. Brent

I would appreciate any extra info on using Super Glue and/or melting. Using Dawson's instructions, SOMEtimes I get good results, sometimes I don't. I have tried some of the cheaper "buy it by the yard" type of FO and had very questionable results. As with Kydex, I suspect, different plastic formulas react differently to heat, and just because it looks like good FO doesn't make it good FO for sight use. The heat gun use may solve it for me, though, thanks for that! Brent

want2race, I guess I didn't realize the extended one also stuck out wider than normal, worth a look. I know it is not a huge job to checker the bottom, I just thought is was so small that nobody would want to mess with it for less than big bucks. Silver Surfer, hadn't thought of them, but since they do some sort of small jobs, making bushings to fit and all, maybe they would take on a little checkering or serration job for me if I buy their stop as you suggested. Maybe it could be done by running some milled serrations along the bottom or something. I know Mr. Smith made all the time in the world to exchange E-mails with me helping me fix a problem and talking me out of buying a part of his that I didn't need, so maybe he'd be happy to make a few dollars off a small job for me. Costs zero to ask. thanks guys

This is a small thing, I know...not enough to interest most 'smiths, I guess, but... Being a lefty, I trip the slide release with my trigger finger-or push it UP to engage it when I "unload and show clear." Most slide releases are rounded on bottom, but the Wilson one has a ledge and I usually use it. Problem is, the Wilson one won't work on either of my STIs, won't lock the slide. SO, I'd like to have the bottom of the stop textured. I've seen big name smiths texture (even golfball texture) the bottom of the release, making it easy to move up. Question is, who would do a deep ledge or stippling on one-I'd even buy it from the maker? I don't really like the one Grieder/Nighthawk sells, is that my only other choice...and will IT work in my single stack STIs? Thanks

A drop gauge?