njl

That'll also likely cause problems with function of the slide stop...not enough spring tension pushing it down.

That is incorrect. It was at least 2001 (perhaps 2002) before Glock switched the mid/full-size 9mm's to 3pin frames. I know this because it happened in the middle of the GSSF 10th anniversary G17 run. The first 500 (not sure if that's GSSF000-GSSF499 or GSSF001-GSSF500) are 2pin frames. The second 500 were 3pin frames. According to wikipedia, the G34 came out in 1998. My G34 is a 2pin frame. If you said all G34s are at least 3rd gen, I'd believe that without trying to look it up.

That seems a little frequent to me...and depending on the tool being used to punch the pin out and the way it's being done, I wonder if that's enlarged the locking block pin holes in the frame? Seems like a bandaid solution...but perhaps a little strip of grip tape covering the locking block pin hole would keep it in place? Other possible solutions: 1) buy an older Gen3 G34...the originals didn't have locking block pins. 2) send it back to Glock...worst case, they might replace the frame for free...and then you have a mismatched serial Glock. Some people don't care about that sort of thing...some do.

Here's the chrony results from the weekend G21SF, Clays, Precision Delta 230gr FMJ, COAL 1.253" +- 0.005 3.7gr 663.9fps 3.8gr 688.2fps 3.9gr 704.8fps 4.0gr 720.5fps Same loads from a Springfield full size 1911 3.7gr 691.1fps 3.8gr 728.9fps 3.9gr 724.2fps * 4.0gr 757.2fps Not sure what happened with the 1911 3.9gr string. Its low was lower than the 3.8 low, and its high was lower than the 3.8 high...so it's not like there was just one extra low velocity round that threw off the avg for the string. The G21 strings were 10 shots (all the chrony will allow). The 1911 strings were 8 shots (all my mags will allow).

Which ones did you go to? I bought my crushed walnut at the one at 1442 Sr 436, Casselberry, FL, but it was probably close to 1 year ago. I haven't been in there recently. Walnut is a much more aggressive cleaner than corn cob...so it does clean the brass faster. People say it doesn't give the shine you can get from corn cob.

Shop a little harder and buy new Glock mags for around $20 each. Cool. I'll search around some more. Do you know of any places off the top of your head? bestdefense.com has them listed at $21.95 each...but at checkout, they seem to give 10% off, which actually drops them to just under $20 before shipping. There's always Botac...but they recently raised their Glock mag prices...and their order fulfillment is so hit or miss and customer service non-existent, that unless you've dealt with them before and know the drill, I can't recommend ordering anything from them...unless they offer misery for sale. I bet they could deliver that without any issues. While you're there, get yourself an Agrip for your Glock.

Shop a little harder and buy new Glock mags for around $20 each.

They will let you pay personally...I wasn't sure about the answer, and didn't want to find out, so I mentioned my employer (which has an account) but asked if I could pay with my own credit card.

I sent the gage back to Dillon. They sent me a gage that has a slightly more open mouth. The Blazer ammo that wouldn't go completely into the old gage drops into the new one.

Yes you can! Grainger has crushed walnut $20 for 40 lbs! Drillspot.com has corn cob for $22 for 40 lbs but with shipping its $33. Check them periodically as they frequently offer free shipping! Do you have a link for the Grainger walnut? I can't find it using their web site. This is the corn I bought recently: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2MVR4?Pid=search $25 + tax for 40# which just fit in 2 5 Gal buckets.

I've read conflicting things on this. What it boils down to is: To send the same weight bullet downrange (from the same gun) at the same velocity, you're going to have the same amount of recoil. Faster powders have less perceived recoil. Clays being a really fast powder, should feel softer shooting at the same velocity as a slower powder. I'll find out first hand soon...as I started out with Universal Clays, and am about to give Clays a try.

It'll cost you a bit more, but if you have Harbor Freight or Grainger local, pick up ground walnut or ground corncob from them. Either is much finer grain than pet bedding corn cob, won't get jammed in 9mm cases, and is small enough to get into and easily pour out of .223 brass.

The superswage 600 needs an adaptor to swage 9mm?

I highly recommend Agrip. It gives a firm, comfortable grip, without the abrasiveness of skateboard type grips. It can be a little tricky to install the first time (or few times), and contrary to what the manufacturer says, I really don't recommend removing and reusing it once it's been applied.

Going shorter in COAL will decrease the case volume which will increase the pressure. That's why you shouldn't load any shorter than the min COAL a given load lists...but even then, the case volume for their 124gr bullet at 1.09" may not be the same as the case volume for your 1.09" since the bullets themselves could be of different lengths. 1.09" is awfully short for 9mm with 124gr FMJ/CMJ. I've been loading the MG 124gr CMJ to anywhere from 1.140"-1.155" and don't see any reason to go shorter. If you have any, measure some factory rounds to see what COAL they use. For 9mm FMJ, I suspect you'll find generally around 1.150" give or take 0.01". 1.169" is the max. Your barrel or mags may require shorter (or may not if they're loose and forgiving like Glock). I'd say pick a COAL, load 20 or so, and go chrono them...but it sounds like you don't have one yet.

They don't even let you pick up your own brass? http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=112864

I'm convinced that my Lyman digital scale isn't accurate at the low end. I basically don't trust it to give me reliable numbers for a single 9mm powder charge (which for me is about 4.3gr). I'll drop 5-10 charges on it, and then divide appropriately to figure out the average. BTW, I've been loading 9mm on a RL550B with Universal Clays.

In the "good old days" when things were in stock, you could order several cases of primers and a few 4-8lb jugs of powder all on one hazmat...pay $110/5000 primers, $65 for 4lbs of powder, $75/1000 for jacketed 9mm bullets = $0.11 per round. Most of us don't buy brass. You were supposed to be saving that up during the years you shot but didn't reload. I don't know what you paid for brass, but I'll be you paid a lot more than $110/5000 for gunbroker primers. Wanting to try a new (to me) powder, I just bought 1lb (actually, 14oz.) locally, and it was $26 (with tax)! If it works out, I'll definitely be ordering it by the 4 or 8lb jug next time and get a much better price.

Cool. Do you have data on a Clays load for 230gr FMJ? I'm probably going to order JHP next time anyway...but for the moment, FMJ is what I have.

Titegroup is one of the powders I was hoping to find...that Clays, or Solo 1000. Clays is the only one of those that they had.

I happened to be passing by a Gander Mountain today, so I went powder shopping. The only powder they had from my list of "fast powders for .45" was Clays...so I bought 14oz. It'll probably be a week or two before I get a chance to chrony any.

I may still try another (faster) powder, but I did some experimenting with more Universal Clays and varying OAL. As I'd hoped, reducing OAL a bunch, seems to have cranked up the pressure. I loaded a few more small batches with all the same components mentioned above. This time I loaded 5.27gr @ 1.215", 5.42gr @ 1.215", and 5.54gr @ 1.268". In that last one, I wanted to see what would happen if I went a little longer with OAL. I was going to do even longer...but apparently that's about the longest OAL with this bullet I can do and still have the Springfield 1911 chamber them or fit them in the mags. ------ G21 ----- 1911 5.27gr 716fps 744fps 5.42gr 739fps 774fps 5.54gr 674fps 748fps Also, I realized today that I was looking at old info for major PF (major was 175pf)...apparently major only needs 165pf now...so @ 230gr, that's just 718fps...so my 5.42gr load @ 1.215" would make major. As I was finishing up, I did have my first stovepipe (with one of the lighter loads). I'm thinking of loading some more at 5.45gr and seeing if I have any more reliability issues.

A friend gave me a bunch of old reloading gear which includes a couple bottles of unidentified smokeless powder that were likely used for shotgun shell reloading. Unfortunately, these bottles are not original powder jugs...they must have bought 4-8lb. jugs and then dispensed them into smaller containers for easier handling. I've probably got around 1 lb. of this unidentified stuff. It looks pretty similar to universal clays, not that it really matters. I assume there's no reliable way to determine what a powder is by looking at it, and for the amount here, it's probably not worth the risk or effort of trying to figure out what it is by loading a few rounds with really conservative charges. I've heard you can just dump it in the yard and call it fertilizer. Anyone actually done that? I'd hate to kill a section of grass or a tree with it. I've also got some 30 year old black powder. How would you dispose of that?

For about the same price, you can get Zero 230gr JHP. Any reason not to go JHP when the price is about the same?

It just occurred to me, I've been adjusting the seating die improperly. I've been adjusting it and snugging the lock ring with the shell plate down. I'm guessing this results in "screwed up" concentricity of the brass and the seater. Is it possible the combination of that + thick brass ( S&B ) = cartridges with bulges/the bullet seated off center that won't gage/chamber? Now that I realize I was doing it wrong, I may try again with the S&B brass and see how things go. Rereading the instructions, it seems all the dies, with the possible exception of the sizer (though even that seems questionable) should be locked down with the shell plate up and a case in that position to help guarantee concentricity. I guess this is what happens when you setup the press, load one type of ammo for a year on it, and then start making adjustments without rereading the instructions.