njl

That's what I'd been using, but each time I do that repair, it seems to only last 6 months or so. How it gets as mangled as it does, is inexplicable.

Why can't Dillon come up with / supply a long lasting reliable part for the spent primer catcher pin? My original one was mangled a while back. I've used a few paper clip sections, but it seems everything eventually gets mangled and the chute gets jammed in the open position, allowing spent primers to go wherever they like. I was just loading a few small test batches with a new (to me) bullet, and mid way through had to stop, break off one end of the mangled paper clip, grab the other with a mini vise grip plier, and pull it out. Not wanting to make the trip down stairs in search of another paper clip (I'd run out of usable sections), I found a piece of solid core wire thin enough to thread through the chute. It probably won't hold for long...but it worked for the night and the next time it gets mangled, this wire should be much easier to extract. It actually gives me an idea...I wonder if aramid yarn would survive in that role. It's flexible yet very durable. Tying it off at each end might be a PITA though. I know, people say to use a safety pin...but I've never found one the right size. They're either much too small or large.

It's on a Dillon. Doesn't that mean it has a lifetime no B.S. warranty? OTOH, Inline's web site says 'these have our lifetime "no worries" warranty.' but I don't see where that warranty is defined on their site.

My case of Fiocchis arrived today. I was going to complain that they turn my 7 round mag 930 SPX into a 6 round mag, but so do the Winchester 1oz slugs I have. Only with buck or bird shot loads am I able to fit all 7 rounds in the mag. I also experienced mag follower bind for the first time, after trying to cram a 7th round in.

These LED strips will run on lower than 12vdc. You might actually prefer lower voltage (a little less intense light). Odds are, you have one or more 9-12vdc transformers (wall warts) left over from some device that either died or outlived its usefulness. Just make sure its rated for enough mA to power the LEDs...but since you're only likely powering a handful of LEDs, you really don't need much power. The whole 5M string of them eats 2A @12vdc. If you're only powering 9 of them, a 100mA supply is more than enough. As they would say on the GT reloading forum, if you built one of these and had to buy a transformer, turn in your CRB card.

I've known of people who've blown up Glocks with reloads, contacted Smyrna, been honest with them about what happened, and gotten the guns rebuilt or replaced for a fraction of what buying a new one through normal channels would cost. I just wouldn't expect anything to happen quickly with Glock at this point...since they're quoting people 16-20 week waits on guns coming directly from Glock (cashing in pistol certificates).

That's not a recommended OAL. That's the minimum OAL for that load data. i.e. going shorter is not recommended. Going longer is ok, but may result in lower than advertised velocity due to increased case volume / lower pressure. If you're trying to make power factor, may as well start with 4gr. If PF doesn't matter, start at 3.7 and see if you need more for reliable function. To make PF, some people need >4gr, which is beyond what Hodgdon says is max.

It can't be opened up and resoldered?

The skylight thing I'd not seen before, but I bought the supplies to make my own "Complete ceiling kit" for my RL550B, and I've been very happy with it. The only issue I've had have been with the adhesive on the LED strips not being strong enough to keep the ceiling strip in place, and I haven't found a solution to that yet. Assuming Inline has resolved that, I'm sure anyone wanting a lighting kit would be happy with one from them. I'm just a combination of cheap and curious and like doing this sort of thing myself. If you shop around, you can get a whole roll (5M I think) of LED strip and the other odds and ends you'll need for less than the cost of the complete ceiling kit...but you will have to spend some time soldering and assembling things. If you're not comfortable with a soldering iron, send Inline some $.

Sounds like my 147gr loads. Mix them in with 124s, and you'll think you had a squib.

I just ordered a box of 644566 from Midway to try through my 930 SPX. I recently sighted it in with 1oz 1600fps (what the box claims) Winchester slugs (it was all WalMart had) and ouch. Lighter slugs at lower velocity should be easier on the shoulder.

I went ahead and removed the shell holder and polished it with some Flitz and a rag by hand. With the longer spring now, if I cycle the action briskly, it feeds from a full mag. Every round after that wants to feed no matter how slowly / gently I cycle it. That's a big improvement. I'm temped to take a couple inches off the long spring, but will probably hold off on that for now. The hardest part was getting the shell holder pin's clip back in place.

Is your brass that thin, or isn't 0.371 kind of overdoing the crimp? Last time I measured some 9mm brass, it was around 0.011.

WSF != WST

Do you mean the bit about removing the shell holder and doing a fluff and buff on it? I've considered doing that...but just below that, he says the mag spring should only extend 10" beyond the end of the tube. That's about where I am with the original spring.

For the 124 JHP I'd start at 4.5gr and see how that chronos.

I've got a 930 Waterfoul for which I've acquired all the parts to make it an SPX. In its original configuration, it's been 100% reliable except that I generally cannot get it to feed the first round from the magazine. i.e. if I load one into the chamber, close the bolt, load the mag, they all fire/feed just fine. If I load the mag on an empty chamber, the mag won't feed. In SPX configuration, I've not put many rounds through it, but it's basically the same. Shoots fine...won't chamber from an empty chamber / full mag. The original spring is 23" and tapered at the follower end. The spring that came with my SPX parts is 28.75" and not tapered. Measuring how much spring protrudes from the open mag tube, the shorter spring is 10.75" longer, the longer spring is 17" longer. I tried assembling it in SPX configuration with the 23" spring, and doing that, it appears it will chamber from a full mag pretty reliably as long as I pull the bolt back with significant force with the stock against my thigh. Once the mag has been downloaded by 3 rounds, it's hard to cycle the action without the mag feeding a shell. i.e. cycling it very slowly/gently still tends to feed a shell most of the time. I've not tried firing it in this configuration yet. I've read that Mossberg shipped some of the early SPX's with short (23") springs, and that there were "problems" with them, but I haven't seen any details on what the problems were. I've also read of people getting new SPX's with anywhere from 23 to 40" mag springs. If I want this gun to be reliable but also be able to go from "cruiser ready" to ready to fire without having to manually feed one into the chamber, is more testing with the 23" spring worth a try? Should I go with the longer spring, but cut a couple coils off of it? Is there a "right" length for the mag spring in the 7-round mag configuration? I'd guess the "right" length really depends on the strength of the spring. I've read some are made of thicker material than others. Where's a good place to get spare/replacement springs? I looked at Brownells and Wolff's web site, and didn't find specific springs for the 930 SPX at either site.

I'm curious to try Bayou one day, though I don't know that their sub 230gr .45 bullets will run in my Glocks. From what I've heard, anything with a SWC-like profile (exposed step on the bullet) tends to cause problems in the G30. I just did a test though with the 1 specimen I have of Bayou and the two batches I have of OLD BBI*. It occurred to me a few minutes later to try with Precision as well. I took sample bullets and rubbed them against a piece of card stock (the sleeve from a tray of CCI primers). Bayou left nothing. I can see where it was rubbed, but I think only due to the impression it made in the material. The bad BBI, if they were more conveniently shaped, I could use as a pencil. The good BBI, still left a bit of residue. The Precision left a litle less residue than the good BBI. I did this on a primer sleeve I'd used to record data on the Bayou bullet I was given which was loaded by a local commercial reloader. This is the one from a recent thread I started about poorly loaded Bayou bullets. In the picture, the top rubbing is from a Precision 200gr .45 bullet. The middle rubbing is "bad" BBI 130gr 9mm. The lowest visible rubbing is good BBI 130gr 9mm. Below that one, what you don't see, is where I rubbed the Bayou bullet. * The bad BBI is a batch I got a couple years ago where the coating was apparently not done right and didn't adhere properly. I complained, replacements were sent that were much better. The company has since changed hands, and last I saw, the 130gr 9mm was not even currently offered.

+1 I don't see how that would help at all with round nose bullets. I expect you'd still have the bullet get an impression from the vent hole and you might start seating them a little crooked.

I had the same issue with Xtreme plated bullets. It's thin plating over soft lead and the profile of the bullet is letting the nose hit the top of the dome on the seating stem.

I'm definitely not blaming Bayou for what was clearly badly commercially reloaded ammo. Having seen their bullets first hand now, I'd probably order some to try if they were taking orders. Last I looked, I don't think they were.

I'm not at all surprised. Your load is awfully light to start with. Small primers presumably have less primer compound in them so they make less gas. I've had your same experience just from subbing weaker LP where all else was the same, also with a very light load that was probably barely running the gun. (null)

Those are more or less the same recipe. Depending on your barrel, 4gr is likely somewhere just under or over major PF. If you don't care about PF, you can go a 1/10th grain or two or three lower. (null)

I've been loading for the 21 for a couple years...both barely major PF and minor. What I found the hard way recently is that the 21 is far more tolerant of minor ammo than the 30. The 21 will function with ammo lighter than I want to use. The 30 gets finicky and starts stovepiping and failing to eject far sooner.

A google search for what I thought was the name comes up as a local FFL in Cheaper than Dirt's FFL database. So, they at least appear to have some level of FFL. I found their web site, and they really look like a scary place to deal with.