the4thpower3

carefully inpsect the loading nozzel for cracks, usually a hairline crack. loss of pressure = reduced blow back pressure.

You shoot Single Stack Open? I'm not so sure what a "non-tactical rail" is...but here's a full metal railed model: http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Gas_Pistols_SMGs_WE_WE_1911_Tactical_Railed.htm Here's a non-railed full metal version MEU (you can change the grips if you don't like the wrap-arounds : http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Gas_Pistols_SMGs_WE_WE_MEU_Black_with_Pro_Grips.htm These are not high quality, but they are the better of the full metal 1911's (single stack, that's not an A1 model). Sadly, airsoft manufactures do not produce expensive high quality guns, hence the reason for "building" them. They are all made of zinc alloy and/or plastic. Here's the WE line up (if you prefer to buy from a USA retailer): http://www.airsoftpost.com/index.php?cPath=21_45_252 There are some others single stack 1911's listed ^ there, that have protruding, threaded barrels...you could always buy one and cut off the threaded portion. Or buy a replacement outer barrel. Or you could always build an airsoft gun that cost more than a real Kimber.

If all you need are some links for parts... here you go. http://www.prohandgun.com/ http://www.prog4.com/db/index.asp http://www.ipscgm.com/index.php?main_page=...amp;language=en

I could barely fit 2 barricades in my one car garage from the last match. I don't think I can set up 4 walls. Designing freestyle matches within a 18x9 ft area is not easy. I wish I had more room to shoot.

I've been into airsoft for the past 2 years. There are a lot of places to buy components. But only a few to get nice custom parts (which are in Hong Kong). If you are really interested in putting together a custom gun, you need to prepared to spend some loot. PM me if you want more info.

Once most people start realizing plastic and cheap metals parts break, that's when the real money spending begins. You'll want to start upgrading virtually everything. I think people that realize this before buying into Airsoft for practice and wind up steering clear. I'm not trying to turn anyone away from Airsoft , but I think people should be aware that this becomes a whole other hobby... But still cheaper than real guns

I don't much about bio bbs. I own these bioval bbs. They will NOT shatter (they actually dent bam steel targets). Interesting info though http://biovalbbb.eu/ Because they dent my steel targets, I don't use them anymore.

I've heard of this happening more often lately. Same with plastic slides breaking. Honestly, the first things people should consider when purchasing an Airsoft gun is, plan to buy a metal slide and barrel (or a gun that already has those items); decide if propane or 134a is going to be used.

Thanks for the compliments guys Duane, in Japan Steel Challenge is the rave (when is comes to airsoft). Click this link for a translated Japanese Steel Challenge http://tinyurl.com/ylfbunj If you look closely in the rules you will see that metal slides are NOT allowed. Most of the top Japanese Steel Challenge shooters opt for form over function. Since many understand their limitations, they make the most of what they can....see some of they crazy "open/unlimited" class guns here http://tinyurl.com/ykmlvxp Now tell me what you think of Japan's airsoft guns lol Anyhow. Most asian countries and regions prefer guns like mine. Hong Kong and Taiwan and the real hot spots for the guns we like. Both of my main airsoft guns are completely made of cnc'd steel and aluminum, designed by me. My machinist is ProG4 in Hong Kong http://tinyurl.com/yja6adt There are other's that sell bulk or limited run custom parts. Check here: http://tinyurl.com/yzq5kwz and check here http://tinyurl.com/yhpbzrl Most of these shooters are only interested in STI/SVI 2011, 1911, and Glock style handguns. The operating systems are the only things that really separate them (Tokyo Marui; Western Arms; KSC). So most of the upgraded guns your will see with be in these formats. There are some others, but not as widely used/upgraded. Here's a couple more links for pics of more guns like mine http://tinyurl.com/6fczwd http://tinyurl.com/yg6p6r7 http://tinyurl.com/yzf8feh So if you a serious airsoft gun (gonna cost you between $1-2k) contact one of those sites I listed...or you can go through me.

These are some airsoft guns I've built, most of which I owned.

I'm pretty certain it says right on those little bottles "never refill this bottle". But I don't know why. I don't know if they make refillable 16.4 oz bottles. But I do agree when it comes to disposal/recycling issue; it would be better to save what you have.

It depends on the gun/mag design. Tokyo Marui's fill until gas spews out a little. Others you have to listen and feel to tell when the mag is full.

Nice find Sean. I didn't know that existed. I would go with the KWA of all the choices.

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Not that you asked ... but from my experience hanging anything from a vehicle's rear view mirror can be distracting to the driver and others (especially cd's which can glare in others sight). Obstructing the driver's view may cause an accident (which could be fatal). Take my opinion as you will, and hopefully you will consider my words before driving with a distracting, obstructed view. I agree, I hate those who preach their word as if it were the end all answer. Looking more deeply I find I hate one sided, opinionated people who can't reflect of things beyond cycloptic neocortex. Stop and take a look around.

Have you tried mounting the CED7000 to and arm band? What kind of gun are you running now (before it broke) ?

What timer are you using? I mainly use a CED8000 and CED stop plate. I have a CED7000A but it's hard to get the sensitivity right. Too sensitive will pick up something like a reload. I guess it doesn't matter much since now you don't have anything to shoot it with

Anyone? I just shot it. 5 Runs: 9.47 sec, 9.11 sec, 8.34 sec, 8.55 sec, 8.15 sec The only run that wasn't 100% was the 8.34 (dropped 2). 8.15 sec, 85pts = 10.42 HF I shot left to right. Left side barricade T2 T1. While moving right , T4 is visible right away. Poppers 4-1 while slowy moving. Hit T3 transitioning faster as I get on the right side of the right barrier with out stepping out. Then T6 T5 and stop plate (had a little left foot lift action, but it's not a big stretch to the stop plate). Edit: Flyin40 - I just saw your post. I was missing 45 degree elbows! LOL. and some barricades.... Well, I think it would be easier to hit T3 and T4 had I them set up right. I agree, I like the flow of the match. A reload in the middle would have muffed it up a bit.

There are a few makers. Most are potmetal or plastic frame and plastic slide. There are not a lot of upgrades available for them. I've never owned or shot one. This looks nice http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/eac-m92f-metal-...tta-type-d.html You could build that yourself for cheaper. Doesn't weigh as much as a real gun cause it's aluminum. But other than that? Maybe the WE. It would be heavier than ^ ... the quality isn't quite there but a bit easier on the wallet. http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=3902

I don't know if I got the 45's correct. They are 3' at the center..but they seem like they should be shorter.

Regulation? Who's regulating? I think using 1ft sections of pvc with couplers is a good idea. It would cost a little more to have a bunch of couplers, but they're not expensive. With a bunch of 1 ft sections you could make yourself a variety of heights for targets and easily adjust or pack them up and take them with you. Can you find a place that sells 1 1/4" PVC in 1 foot sections? You guys can feel free to browse around my photobucket - search "the4thpower3" to see my targets and guns.

Has anyone set this match up yet? I was just looking at it and realized I don't have enough stuff to set up. Flyin40, if you are going to continue with these matches, you may want to consider making them a little easier for others to set up. Maybe consider using classifiers as simple matches/practice. I have to agree with everyone. BAM Airsoft target systems are the BEST! I use a CED Stop Plate. It has LED's that come on when shot and can be hooked up to a CED8000. The MadBull timer and plate is not so great, but decent on the cheap. I have one with spare plates if any one wants it. PM me.

Thanks for the welcome. I'll lurk around here and help when I can. The WE Co2 M4 is the one and only. I think it has any other M4 beat hands down, dollar for dollar and pound for pound.

You guys really need to research what you really want. Just like anything else.... There are ususally a few manufactures of the same type of weapon system you may be searching for. Maybe I will give you guys a list of places to buy airsoft. Most of the best places are in HongKong. On Topic. Your first major choice in buying an AR/M4 variant is GAS? or ELECTRIC? These are referred to as GBB (gas blow back) or AEG (automatic electric gun). I prefer GBB. I honestly believe the WE M4 in Co2 version is the best choice for a GBB. But it will cost you around $400. Here's a link http://airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_vie...products_id=406 If you want cheap (but might break) GBB M4 http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/agm-m4-ris-gas-...back-rifle.html If you prefer AEG (battery power - sounds like a sewing machine and has no kick) There are a TON of choices. The best of the best is Systema. These will cost you just as much as a real AR. KWA is nice, full metal and can be purchased in the US (if buying in Hong Kong bothers you). I suggest staying away from AEG, unless you know how to fix your wife's sewing machine. Please research before buying Here's a YouTube link to WE M4 stuff. http://www.youtube.com/user/WEairsoft Here's a more direct link to what I think is the right AR GBB to buy http://www.youtube.com/user/WEairsoft#play.../18/flogCqEhWJE