ihocky2

I have 4 different .41 mags, all S&W's and love them. Probably my favorite caliber. The 40S&W accomplished what the .41 mag was intended to be with reduced loads for police 50 years ago and with full power loads it will stand right next to the .44mag. I have to get a few speed loaders, but I am thinking about taking my 657 to USPSA one of these days. This is just one of the "Because I can ideas" I get. My standard practice load is sitting aroun 950 fps with a 210gr. SWC's and I even use it for medium range hunting. 50 yards dropped a deer nicely.

I had a lot of fun at this match. I enjoyed all of the stages, and had a great squad to shoot with. Everyone helped with pasting and resetting targets which is always a pleasure to see. I would like to thank all of the people that helped to setup and run the match and especially to the RO's and score keepers for taking time out of their day to help with the match.

Thanks for the help so far guys. I received a new hand yesterday and installed it tonight and got pretty good results. Without the sticking of the floating hand I dropped 1 pound off the trigger pull. I am not certain on the timing though. If I creep the trigger in SA 4 of the chambers barely lockup and two usually do not. When I pull the trigger though (holding the hammer) they lock up. If I pull the hammer any faster than a creep, all chambers lock up just fine. In DA two of the chambers lock up just a hair before the hammer drops when pulling the trigger as slow as I can. At any type of actual shooting speed I am getting the cylinger to snap around early and have no problems with lock up. With this situation should I worry about the timing or is it okay as is? This is a competition only gun since I have the DA trigger at 6 pounds and the SA trigger is about 1-3/4 pounds. Anytime I so shoot SA I will still be cocking the hammer with at least a little authority.

Thanks for the help guys. After being tipped off that it could be the floating hand I did a search and it seems like that is most likely the cause. I am looking at getting a Power Custom oversized hand, should I replace the hand spring with it, or will the original from the floating hand still work with the standard hand? If I fit the hand myself how hard is it to screw up the timing? I am comfortable working on the internals, but have never had to fit a hand and will take it to a smith to get it done if needed, though I prefer to work on it myself to get the action where I like it. Is there any good info anywhere for tips on fitting the hand?

Hi guys, I’m having a minor issue with my 610. I bought the gun used about 2 months ago and have had an issue with it during the take up by the hand. Whether I run it SA or DA the hand rotates the cylinder and then just before it should start to slip out of the ratchet it catches a little before it breaks free to move. It does this on every cylinder. At first I thought it was a problem with the heavy factory trigger so I installed lighter springs. Made a great difference in the trigger, but now I can feel the hesitation even more. I thought maybe it was a burr in the trigger group somewhere since I hadn’t polished anything yet. This past weekend I had it open and polished all of the mating surfaces. It made the trigger even nicer but I still had the hesitation, so as I watch the hand in the ratchet I could see it was as it moved from the top face to the side face that it was catching in the edge of the hand. So I took an Arkansas stone and gave it two quick light swipes to remove any burrs and to break the edge a hair. This helped quite a bit, but it is still there. I didn’t want to get crazy with it because I didn’t want to mess up the timing. What can I do to help eliminate this problem. I did not really get a great look at the ratchet but I did not notice any burrs on it. This is a pain because I can’t get a consistent stroke on double action. It goes so far nice and smoothly and then once it hits that edge the weight stacks up and makes the pull harder. It works great for staging the trigger, but the extra pull makes me throw a shot every now and then. None of my other S&W’s do this, I want to get this one nice and smooth like those. As a side note I noticed the pin that the hand attaches to the trigger with looks a little banged up like it was peened on the outside face of the hand. The hand has a good amount of side play when it is not in the slot, could this be the problem? If so, I am guessing installing a new hand is best left to a professional smith so they can set the timing correctly?

Glad to see this thread. I just had one arrive today and my first thought was the same thing. I have a Bladetech SRB for my 1911 that is like butter, the Safariland is so stiff.

Good choice on the STI.I didn’t see this early enough to chime in, but I have a Trojan in 9mm for 3 or 4 years now and it sees at least 3000 rounds per year, sometimes more. So far this year I am at 2000 already, so it’s going to be a good year. Since I’ve had it the only things I did was change the springs. I have an 11 pound recoil spring and a reduced pressure sear spring, I think from Wolff but it might be Wilson. I have some Metal Form mags that it came with and I practice with and they run pretty smoothly. Wilson’s for matches and I have no problems. I can’t make the gun jam if I try, any ammo I put into it feeds every time round nose, flat point, hollow point, seated long, seated short, they all slam home. Only problem I have is with two of the Metal Forms that they have a tendency to spit an extra round out when ejecting, so I’ll get the empty case and a live round flung out, but it doesn’t jam. But I know that is a magazine related issue as well. I don’t remember what the Spartan has, but I prefer the stippled front strap over checkered.

I shot the PSA for the first time on Saturday afternoon and had a blast. I loved the mix of stars, small targets, swingers and the Polish plate rack. Thank you for all of the hard work to the guys at Palmyra and to the guys that stayed the weekend to help out.

I have the 9mm Trojan and I believe it comes with a 14lb recoil spring, but it may be even heavier. Out of the box and still after about 2000 rounds I could feel the lag of the slide moving. I dropped to a 10lb and everything cleaned up nicely. Definitely had more muzzle flip though. I bumped up to a 11 lb and I could get on target much quicker and still had a faster slide. Main spring is 15# I believe.

I should have included before, I am running the Wilson Combat 10rnd mags and have no problems with them at all.

This comes in more about the gun itself, but take into consideration future shooting. If you are starting with steel, like I did, you will find yourself in the future moving into USPSA, IPSC, or IDPA. Depending on the gun you get, you may need to shoot in a class that you don't want to. That being said, I've shot 38 Super in a non-compensated gun and noticed a significant bit more muzzle flip over my 9mm 1911. It was not bad recoil, but enough to take a few tenths off my overall time because of longer target acquisition. With a compensator, the 38 Super was definitely nicer, but if I converted my 1911 over with a compensator I have to shoot Limited with a single stack. Not even close to competetive.