ihocky2

I've heard they are still having a few QC issues and probably won't really hit production mode until about August.

Search for one for the Winchester Super X2 or Super X3. Basically the same gun.

The only time the 8 shot has the advantage is when your stage designer doesn't think through how an 8 shot would shoot a stage. Unfortunately I've shot 1 or 2 Regionals that had at least 1 stage that the 8 shot had a distinct advantage. The definitely had at least 1 less reload. I know the conventional thinking is that if you are reloading on the move then there is no difference. For some that may be the case, but for the average B and C class shooter, and even some of the A class shooters I would argue that if I have a full gun I can get to the next array faster than reloading on the move. If my gun has rounds left for a target I can sprint to the next target, set and shoot. Reloading on the move I am moving at a fast walk or a jog at best. I can't run nearly as fast while reloading and I can without having to reload.

Safariland makes the Comp II for the 44 mags. A guys that shoots ICORE with us runs his 629 and does decent with it. I forget what bullet he uses, but runs it over Trailboss and the barrel barely moves. I am planning on taking my 657 this month for ICORE and borrowing some speedloaders. This is a "just because I can" idea. Something different than usual.

Hi guys, I am very new to open guns and for now we'll say mostly ignorant. I have a 9mm 1911 that I want to build an open top end for to use for steel matches. Since it is only a single stack it will stay a steel gun. But every match I watch the open guns and think "Damn that looks like fun". So far my thoughts have gotten me to a new STI slide and an STI Trubor barrel with compensator installed. Once I have the slide and barrel I know they have to be fit together and the slide to the frame. What other fitting is required? Anything to fit the barrel to the frame? I have access to a machine shop and know a few guys who have lightened slides, so with a little research I am pretty sure I can cover that end on my own. I there anything else special I should be aware of. One of the main things is I do not want to alter anything to the frame, I want to be able to put the stock top end back on and have it run like it does now. Is this a logical dream, or would I be better saving my pennies for a used gun?

One thing that seems to come into play is how your hands get when they are sweaty. I shoot with a lot of people that have their hands get slippery. I don't know what is different, but when my hands get sweaty I actually get a better grip on the gun. Even smooth wood grips on my revolvers move less in my hands once they get sweaty. If you hands get tacky like that I think the rubber will work great. If your hands get slippery the skate tape seems to be a better choice.

Will your design work with both the XD and the XDM magazines? My understanding is that the big difference is the location of the hole in the base pad, but I could be wrong.

Is there anyway for this to work with the factory trigger? I want to use this gun for IDPA SSP which does not allow a externally visible trigger modification, which the trigger with the overtravel has.

I installed the PRP kit in my wife's XD about 1-1/2 years ago, sorry I don't remember which one, but I left the stock trigger in it at the time. Function test were good at the time and 100 rounds or so through it ran without a problem. Because of life getting in the way she hadn't really shot it in over a year. This weekend I took it out to show it some love and started running into a problem after about 50 rounds. Every so often the trigger would not reset, it would stay pulled back. A hard whack to the side with my palm would usually reset it, but not always. If I racked that slide about 1/4" the trigger would reset. What would cause this? Do I need to do a little more filing of the tab on the disconnector?

Just to throw out one more option, if you can find one the 627 in 38 Super. Short cases without having to get 38 Short Colt or trimming down 38 Specials. I have heard of guys running 9mm out these as well without modification, but I swore you had to ream the chamber for 9mm to fit them. The way TK Custom explained it to me is that rimmed cases do not really have a tolerance on the grove, hence the reason for brand specific moon clips. Rimmless cases used in autos have a tolerance on the extractor groove so only one thickness moon clip is required for all brands of brass. Though some do seem to be tighter than others.

I like the Thompsons scope target for most rifle work. Though they don't work great with a Burris XTR reticle. An LGS has their own bullseye targets that work perfect with the rings on the XTR reticle.

No, but I know he is in the middle of moving so his hours of work are limited or not at all for about a month or so. His shop is staying in the same location. I have been told that with the move it is going to allow him more hours a day to work, so his backlog should thin out and turnarounds should improve.

After a few minutes with the feeler gauge I think I have found an end shake problem. I have between .004" and .005" of end shake. Cylinder gap is .008". It didn't matter which extractor collar was in, which it shouldn't. I tried checking the hammer pull weight and I am not sure if I did it right. I tried pulling the hammer back and got 3-1/2 pounds and I tried letting the hammer fall on the trigger scale and got 1/2 pound. Is this about right or did I do it wrong. I am going to order a few end shake bearings and hope that clears everything up. I went with the extended firing pin originally because I could not get the trigger pull as light as some of my other guns. Now I am betting it was the end shake that I uncovered. Though why it was lighter before than it is now I am puzzled about.

So a slight update. I went to the range this weekend and put the factory firing pin back in with minor improvement. I am still fairly heavy for the trigger weight but lighter than had been and getting more consistent strikes, but still only 4 or 5 out of 6. My plan tonight is to check the end shake with the extractor collar from my 657 in it and try it with the original extractor collar. Neither of those should make a difference, but since it is a part I changed I might as well check it out. I am really hoping it is an end shake issue because after that I am out of ideas. I was sitting around 6.5 pounds before I did my polishing work and now have to be back to almost 9 pounds, I haven't put the pull gauge on it yet. I will also check the weight to pull the hammer as it is currently set just for reference.

I haven't had the pleasure to try any of the lower powered RIO rounds yet, but I've had great success with the 1350's in my SX2. I don't run them all the time since the recoil is heavier, but for stages with 1 or 2 plates at the end of my choke range but everything else up close I'll throw the 1350's in for the little extra energy without having to choke down and being a little too tight for the small close plates. I've also tried their buckshot and slugs. Nothing that wowed me but I have not had any problems with any of them running my SX2. I saw mention to 1oz. shells earlier in the thread and I'll admit I carry them in my bag depending on the day. I've been to matches with a lot of clay birds on a stage or small plates fairly close that a 1oz. is more than enough for. No sense fighting the extra recoil from a 1-1/8oz. when I can take the softer shooting round and speed up my splits. Some matches I know I will barely use them, so they stay at home. Some matches I know I won't see anything far so the 1350's stay home. Some matches vary month to month so I take a couple boxes of hotter loads and light loads and decide what goes in the bag and what stays in the car after I walk the stages.

I know that no one makes an aftermarket slide for the XD, has anyone ever had luck in either finding new or used slides or managed to get one out of Springfield? My wife has a 4" XD 9mm that is not bad to shoot, but I like the 5" better. I am getting into 3-gun and want a high capacity pistol without spending 2011 money, and realistically for the least money possible since I will only shoot a few matches a year. I could live with using her 4", but the big problem is her POA/POI is about 12" different than mine. Way too much to just deal with or to even compensate for. I was hoping to find a second slide and set it up for me and just use her lower frame. I would also not mind building an open top end without having to cut up her slide.

When I go to the range again this weekend I'll have to post a comparison picture of the firing pins. The nose of the pin is the same length at the factory, the extra material is in the length of the firing pin body with the slot for the retention pin cut longer to the rear.

I can add that at least a couple of those increased classified members are from new clubs. One started running USPSA near me which increased local interest and brought out a few guys who shot a lot of ICORE and IDPA with revolvers but not USPSA since the next closest was over an hour away and they could shoot IDPA within 20 minutes. A lot of people didn't want to make the drive. Now, for revolver it is probably 5 of those 50 new classifications, maybe a hair more.

Hey guys, I was having a problem on my 625 with my cylinder binding up and narrowed it down to a bent extractor rod and center pin. Since everyone has them on back order I swapped out the extractor rod, center pin, and extractor collar with the ones from my 657. While I had everything opened up I installed a Power Custom extended firing pin. Yesterday I went to the range to function test; click, click, click. So I kept tightening the strain screw until I finally got it to go bang, it was fully tightened. Before the parts swap and the new firing pin I had it running 100% ignition at 6-1/2 pounds. What are the chances that the extended firing pin it not working? My other thought was, did the cylinder parts change the head spacing? The center pin and extractor rod should have nothing to do with head spacing. Would the extractor collar make enough of a difference to through the ignition that far off? At anything under full tension I get 50% ignition on a good cylinder full, even at only ¼ turn backed off.

As others have said, it's a personal preference. I prefer the wide smooth trigger, my favorite is the .400 smooth that came on my 610. When my 625 gets detail stripped next time the serrations are coming off. Especially with the major loads the smooth just feels nicer to me.

Thanks for the information. Everything I had read before buying the P14 was that it uses standard 1911 parts except the mag release and trigger. I guess the sear spring should be included in that list.

Has anyone else experienced this. I tried installing the Nowlin sear spring in my new P14 and the left leg falls short of the sear, it only wants to sit on the trigger bow. Is this common to the P14 or is it problem with this specific brand of spring or maybe a bad spring from the batch?

Having not been at the match and not having an 8 shot revolver yet I don't have much of a dog in this fight. But for the guys who shot 8 minor and found a lot of moon clips with 2 rounds or more left, would you have shot the same speed if shooting major all day? I know I can run my minor loads faster than my major loads with about the same accuracy. The extra points lost hurt more with the minor, but if I am keeping the majority in the A zone and still shooting faster I would go with that gun.

I am looking a for a little help in what acceptable conditions for storing reloading components in. I know the bullets will be fine, and primers are pretty good unless they get wet. The powder gives me more reason for concern. Is 60% humidity ok, is 50% considered the max? I cannot really find what is considered the point where components start to degrade. I am finally setting up a section of my basement as a designated reloading/storage room. It is a separate room in an unfinished basement. There are a few areas where some moisture seeps through the wall that I am addressing, doesn't leak but the wall gets damp. This room in the past has always gotten rather humid during the summer, but has always had a closed door. I am keeping the door open now and do run a dehumidifier in the basement. Between a little repair work and keeping the door open I think I have pretty well mitigated the humidity issues, but am not sure what are ideal conditions to store components in.

Thanks for the advice everyone, especially Mike. After reading your response I do remember reading in the past that you want the friction to keep the case in place until the pressure reduces to prevent excessive battering of the breech face. While the quest for keeping the chambers cleaner longer will continue, I will pass on Frog Lube in the chambers. It does make it easier to clean everything off, but I will keep it on the exterior where it belongs.