ihocky2

I have seen one or two pictures of the internals, if you are a clock maker you might be able to modify one. There are just a ton of moving parts inside of the Rhino. The concept is really cool, but I don't know how long that many parts would hold up to the abuse of action pistol competition.

The 6" will probably leave a little of the crown protruding from the bottom. PM sent

Black and Blue uses the exact same coating as Bayou Bullets. The option to pick different diameters is nice. I have not shot them yet to judge how well they work. I would think you will not notice any difference with the lack of the lube groove. I know someone who uses Bayou and found the advertised weights were a few grains higher than actual delivered, they called Bayou and were offered the same bullet without a lube groove which brought the weight to where advertised. He didn't notice any difference. He only wanted the heavier bullet to be safe at the chronograph if they pulled and weighed the bullet instead of just taking your word for it.

Which holster are you switching from and what games are you planning on using the holster for? I started with the 002 Cup holster and it did what it was supposed to, but I was never actually happy with it. I always felt like a wrong bump and it would be on the ground. It was also extremely tight when I first bought it. It was always kind of weird, at times it seemed tight to draw but at the same time felt let it was not holding securely enough. I switched to a DAA Racer and have not looked back. As for your original question, my gun is a 6.5" and I ordered the 7" holster. You can get the 6" and just remove the strap that goes across the front and it will be fine. Even with the strap attached you will be okay, you just have to lift higher on your draw.

Thanks for the replies guys. I have a Winchester Super X2. It's not so much the tape itself that bothers me, but having to apply, remove, reapply every week or two when switching between trap and 3-gun. It's not keeping the hulls that I am worried about since I do not reload for shotgun, the other guys can have them. It's beaning the guy next to me that I want to avoid. Scott, I think I can manage something like that. Might take a little custom machining work, but I think I can get one of those to fit my shotgun. Why didn't I think of something that simple.

I have my shotgun for 3-gun and would like to take it out for some occasional trap shooting. I know there are shell catchers available, but no clip on ones for my shotgun and I don't like the idea of the one that uses double sided tape since I will be taking it on and off fairly often. Since mine if a gas operated shotgun, my thought is just to remove the piston assembly from the gun which should disable the ejection. I'll just have to rack out every spent shell. Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to run the gun like this? Would it cause any unforeseen problems?

Pretty sure the SL Variant does speedloaders for the 41 and 44 mags.

If you REALLY want to shoot 9mm in a revolver for IDPA look for a 547. I am not sure how the prices look anymore, but it is a 6 shot K-frame that you can shoot in SSR. That's right, SSR. It has a special extraction systems that grabs the groove of the case so moon clips are not required. Not sure what you would do for speed loaders though. If it is only for local matches and nothing sanctioned, think about the 929 or the 986 and shoot as not for score. You need IDPA legal gear, but you can use something with a longer barrel or extra shots.

I'm not understanding the issue here. MOST sports have human officials that may/may not be in exactly the correct position to make calls. Baseball umpires come in different sizes so their view of the strike zone could be different. The human officials do the best they can. Will they get every call correct? Nope. That's life. This is true for other sports where the same person does the same thing for the entire game. In baseball, the plate umpire is the same all game long and in the same spot all game long, using their same strike zone all game long. Both teams see the same thing for the duration of that game. The next night they get someone different and have to start all over again, but the new umpire has no bearing on what they did the night before. IDPA is more like if they changed the plate umpire every inning. In IDPA you have an SO, or usually two or three, travelling with every squad. Now not all competitors get the same look, and unless it is one SO to the squad even every person in the squad doesn't get the same look. But all shooters at the match are ranked together for scoring. So an SO that is more lax on one squad gives easier cover calls than another does. This creates disparity. Even with the same SO, if the shooter outruns them too bad they are not in the same position to make the call they did for another shooter. This is more like being in the right place for a play at second base, but that is why the field umpires move to a different position, to be in the best spot to make the call ahead of the runner. That would require an SO already in position to make the calls. Sanctioned matches tend to be better since they can have people stationed to make certain calls all day long. But a downrange position always requires someone to move behind the shooter, allowing for the use of judgement.

If you go with the Big Bore concept I would start it at .41 caliber to let the .41 mag fans play, I would love a game to take mine out into. Until you get over the 230 gr. loads, PF between a 41 and a 44 are almost the same. I would even think about starting it at .40 caliber to let the 610's in, but require the use of 10mm loads since it is not far off a 41. mag.

I have always loved my 1911's. I decided I wanted a double stack 45 for CDP and Limited or Limited 10 in USPSA. Started looking at the common plastic guns and none felt as good to my hand as a 1911. I decided to check out that Para P14.45 and loved it. A little wider than a single stack, but felt much better than the plastics. With the full metal body it definitely reduces the recoil vs. plastic guns that I have tried, allowing faster splits. I am average skill level, so at this point it is not the gun that is holding me back. The difference the gun does make though is how it feels to you. If it feels better in your hand and you control it better than that is the gun you want. Plastic or metal is not the deciding factor, it is which one feels like a natural extension of your hand.

The 7 shot has some room in ICORE and is fine for steel plate games. For ICORE you plan like you have a 6 shooter and have the 7th for make-up shots. The extra shot is a lot better than a C or a miss with a 6 shot and having to either eat the penalty or an extra reload. Stages are supposed to be 6 shot neutral, though the are not always. But even in stages that save a reload with an 8-shot I have seen guys take odd paths and extra time just to squeeze those extra 2 rounds out and save a reload instead of shooting 6 dropping 2 live rounds. If the opportunity is there to save a reload and gain time with an 8-shot, great. But you shouldn't be forcing yourself to shoot all eight just because you have them.

There is not enough material left to mill a dovetail, that was my first though. I am at work so I do not have a picture available, but it is just a standard J-frame where the front sight is a ramp that is milled as part of the barrel rib. The front sight has to be milled off flat with the rest of the rib. The XS sight has a flat base and XS recommends using epoxy to affix the front sight. The silver solder sounds like a good idea, but I worry how the heat will affect the glass vial for the Tritium insert, I would think that much heat would damage the Tritium.

I have a J-frame revolver that has the front sight that is milled as part of the barrel. I am planning to replace it with the XS Sights front sight for this type of job. To do this replacement the front post has to be milled off and then the new sight epoxied in place. I have no problem with milling off the original front sight and any of the prep work that is needed. The only thing I do not know if what would be the best epoxy to use for this application. I certainly want something with high strength since this is a carry gun and I know I want something with a high temperature resistance. I don't know if JB Weld is strong enough or if there is something else better that it commonly available.

Thanks for the information. I know some people love to get the Cerakote because it is supposed to be durable, but I still look at it as a 2-part finish. It adds corrosion protection but does nothing to harden the base metal. I was hoping for someone that had first hand experience with the Cerakote, thank you. The Sun Devil products are nice, but I am still one the believes a forged receiver is stronger than billet. I can do a receiver set from Aero as 7075-T6 which is a little harder to start with and have it anodized for about $200 total. Plus the Sun Devil being beefier should mean heavier, I never really compared the weight of the two so it is just an estimate based on the overall shape.

Any word on the fit of this carrier in the receiver? I know the JP's are supposed to be a lot tighter of a fit than other carriers. I'm all for saving money, but not if the extra money gets a better product.

I have a few projects I am starting to plan for the winter. One is a complete build for my wife and one is a 3G upper for me. My wife really likes the purple from Sun Devil but they are over priced. I also thought that along with a well functioning upper for myself I would like to add a little flair, so I would like to have it done in red. My options for those colors are either Type II Anodize or Cerakote. Can anyone that has experience with either coating provide some insight on how they have held up. Dump barrels and rubs along barricades I think either will tolerate fairly decent. My biggest concern is the case deflector. My current upper has a nice coating of brass after each outing. I would think the Cerakote would wear out pretty quickly there, but I don't know how well Type II anodizing would hold up either.

I've been lucky that the rubber Hogues grips fit my hand pretty well. Some of my guns wear wooden Ahrend's and those I have to shape. I like the finger grooves for non-action pistol guns. For my action guns I use rasps and files to remove the finger grooves mostly and carve reliefs as needed. I leave a little of the groove on the sides for comfort. Once they are shaped I apply a few coats of Danish Oil.

It's not an M&P but I have a Powder River Kit in my XD and it is a crisp 3.5#. I mention that to say, yes I would go lighter. My 1911's are 3# or lighter. My revolvers are 5.5# double action and I would go lighter on those if I could find anywhere else to drop the weight.

I started SSR with a 66 and wound up switching to the 686. I liked the 66, but when I bought a 686 for ICORE with a longer barrel I fell in love with it. It just shoots so flat, even with the same load between the two guns. The 4" 686 definitely absorbs recoil a little better. I run about 125PF for everything in a 38, so for IDPA I am way hotter than I need to be. It is enough that I noticed the faster splits with the 686 and better hits. I do feel the 66 was faster to reload though, the closer holes were easier to hit than the 686. Not enough to really hurt my matches, but if I ever get to the point that I am looking for fractions of a second I may wish I had the 66. The main reason I looked to get rid of the 66 was that the front sight was no replaceable. I would have had to get it milled off and dovetailed for a new front sight. My IDPA revolvers all wear XS Sight tritiums and fiber optics for the rest of my revolvers. So I was looking for a gun with a pinned front sight that I could change easily. End of the day though, I am very happy with my 686 and like shooting it better than the 66.

I have not tried it myself yet to prove one way or another, but the rumor is that the small primer is easier to light with a light hammer fall. Making it possible to run a lower trigger pull weight than when using large pistol primers. In theory it sounds good, one day I have to actually try it.

This was a great match. Fun stages that are challenging. Even when you think you tanked a few stages you are still in the running because everyone drops a stage or two at this match.

I have not tried this on an XD striker yet and have not had the need to. But if you look at what the revolver guys do to their hammers, there is not much left of them. The lighter hammer allows for less spring pressure to still have reliable ignition. My revolvers are like most other gamer revolvers that have chopped hammers and minimum spring pressure to the point that Federal is the only usable primer. These are strictly game guns, I would never try going near that light on a carry gun. My opinion would be to get the primers first and try them. If they are 95%, I would keep them for practice and use something softer for matches and not worry about the striker yet. Or has been mentioned, stick with the factory striker spring.

12.5# ISMI in my fairly new P14.45, less than 1000 rounds so far at 170PF. With factory spring it was closing too early and 1 or 2 out of every 100 would catch between the hood and the breech face. They would all get kicked out, but cause a feeding failure and the brass would have a nice gouge in it. I tried a 14# and had the same problem, but less often. 12.5# and it has gone away. Once everything wears and smooths out the 14# may be okay, but I can get faster splits with the 12.5#. I still have to check the ejector though, that may have been part of the problem.

This seems unlikely. They already have experience with N Frames and N Frame titanium cylinders. What could be the QC issue... Then again, I've only seen one hit gunbroker ever yet, so... I've heard stories of barrels not timed properly and one confirmed that needed to have the chambers hit with a finish reamer. They've had experience with N frames for the better half of a century, yet several of the 625 variations have inherent problems. Experience doesn't necessarily create good QC. Kind of like Ford, they had plenty of experience designing cars, but that didn't prevent the problems with the Pinto. The recommendation I got was to wait until the -1 or -2 comes out. Problems will be worked out by then and the initial craze will be over so they will be easier to get.