Taildraggerdave

+1 on that. Enjoy, Dave

I've been using the Safariland holster and the Calif Comp Works moon clip holders on an Uncle Mikes Instructor Belt. Works great for me at my skill level. Went with the SDM Fiber Optic and eventually drilled another hole and pinned it in. Got tired of it "quick changing" on its own.... You'll love your 625. Mine had some teething issues, but they are all worked out and the gun is 100%. I would recommend the Jerry Miculek Trigger Job video if you are mechanically inclined. You can get a nice 5# DA trigger job with this gun. Take care, Dave

USPSA is a blast. At our local range, USPSA is the weekend before the big monthly IDPA club match. Talk about having to switch gears.......

search is your friend. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=930+spx Thanks. I did search. Typed in 930SPX and got this thread and a thread about a 10.5" AR upper..........

This is a fairly old thread. Anyone have anything new to add? I have been looking at the 930SPX as well... Take care, Dave

Same here. I started with green on all my FO sights then tried red, ONCE, and all the greens have been tossed in favor of red. Take care, Dave

Send a PM to Carmoney Take care, Dave

Recon, It was some bullets he casted himself. He felt that the larger OD, a larger grease groove, a more tailored bullet would cure it, so he sent some to me free to try out. Here is a photo of some loaded and in moon clips.

I was able to get to the chrono today and with the help of Smith Crazy (from S&W Forum) was able to get my 625 shooting without excessive leading. Smith Crazy sent me some bullets to try. They were just slightly larger than the Missouris and Silver States I tried previously as his would not go through the throats without being pushed. I loaded some up over 4.0 gr of Clays and they worked perfectly. I had some trace amounts of lead in the throats and barrel but it cleaned up effortlessly. 100% improvement over what I had before. The combination of a slightly larger projectile and an additional .1 grain cured my problem. I may go back and bump my Clays load up a couple tenths and see what that does with the Missouris and Silver States. If that works well great. If not then it was the larger bullet that did the trick. My chrono results were High:801fps, Low:763, Extreme Spread:38, Standard Deviation:11, and Avg:783 All in all, I was very happy with the result and thanks again to Smith Crazy for helping my figure out the problem. Thanks for the replies here as well. Hopefully this info can help someone else out at another time. Take care, Dave

I assumed you were referring to my other post on this same revolver about insane amounts of leading.... The OP stated that all the chambers were insanely leaded and there was a fair amount in the forcing cone and a bit in the barrel for the first inch or so. I originally equated it (the leading) to how well it cleaned with the Lewis Lead remover. The barrel and forcing cone took about 5 minutes or so total. I can live with that. The cylinder took a little over an hour to get all 6 holes lead free. That's too much time for a game gun. That post and all the replies got me to thinking about getting a range rod and here we are. Take care, Dave I will give you that maybe that one off chamber is responsible for the forcing cone and barrel leading?

I thought that's how that might be done. I can see where a guy could screw that up pretty bad very quickly. That's what I had in mind when I twisted the cylinder a little more, to see which side of the ratchet would require the work. Take care, Dave

The leading problem is in all chambers equally bad....... ........unfortunately. Take care, Dave

Hello again, Just received my range rod today from Brownells and upon initial inspection, all but one of the chambers are in line with the barrel. The range rod goes completely through to the firing pin on all the others without any resistance. I just picked up my fishing weights today so I can slug the barrel and chambers to see what they measure out to. I can move the cylinder against the stop on the one off chamber and get the rod to go through so it is not off by much. What are some good methods to correct this or is it better left alone? Thanks again, Dave

Just like mine only about $50 less....

I have a Leupold QI Base mount that has the picatinny rail over the top and is made specifically for G20 and 21 models. The Leupold part number is 52145. It mounts using the trigger pins. Is this something like what you are looking for? Not necessarily looking to sell it but curious if this would work for you. I hunted around Leupolds site and they don't list it anymore but maybe a call to them might turn one up. Take care, Dave

+1 I do the same on my 550B. Take care, Dave

Thanks for the replies and info so far. I'll swing by a sporting goods store and get some fishing sinkers. Slug the chambers and barrel and chrono some stuff I already have made up next Saturday. Take care, Dave

I used a hole gage and caliper to check the cylinder throats and they all appear to be .453 Probably not as accurate as slugging but it does give me a number to start with... I checked a random sample of Missouri bullets at .452 (as advertised) and a random sample of Silver State at .453 Take care, Dave

Hello again, First off, I wasn't sure if this should be in Reloading or in Revo but since it mostly applies to my 625 I put it here. Feel free to move if necessary. I have been reloading .45ACP for a while now using a Dillon 550B. My standard game load is 3.9/4.0gr of Clays pushing whatever plated 230gr RN that I can find for cheap. Berrys, Xtreme, etc. Loads have always been accurate enough for me in either my 1911 or my 625. I recently decided to experiment with LRN, due to the rising bullet costs and bought a box each of Silver State 230gr LRN and the same from Missouri Bullets (BHN12). Using the same amount of Clays and an OAL of 1.230 for each brand. Have put a couple hundred of each through my 625 as that is my current favorite gaming gun and the leading is unbelievable. I tried Chore boy pads, etc and wound up buying a Lewis Lead Remover from Brownells to get the 625 clean. I didn't measure the chambers but either lead bullet will drop through all the chambers from the throat end. I have a chrono date set for next weekend so I'll have to get back with those numbers. I put only 14 LRN (Missouris) through my 1911 and found a single large chunk about an inch past the chamber. The 625 chambers are 100% lead covered from the headspace ridge all the way to the end of the cylinder. The forcing cone has a fair amount of lead as well but the barrel doesn't seem to lead any where near as much as the cylinder and cone. I was thinking that maybe my Clays load was too hot for lead only but found on another forum that a guy was using 4.4gr of Clays pushing a 230gr LRN to make 165 power factor. If that is true, then my loads are too weak. Looking for any thoughts, tips, or ideas. Thanks again, Dave

I have been using an aquarium pump on my 550B for over a year now. Works great. Got the cheapest, smallest one I could find at the fish store. Put one loose zip tie around the powder hopper and place the pump's rubber feet against the powder hopper. Tighten the zip tie just enough to keep the pump from sliding down. I got my setup for $5 at the fish store. Definitely worth trying to see if it works well in your situation. I find that it doesn't matter how smooth, fast, slow, hard, or soft I am with the press handle, the charges stay within a .1 grain or so. Take care, Dave PS, you could also use the adult store version but batteries get expensive

I agree. I wound up filing my stock rear sight deeper and a bit wider. But to answer the previous question, I got the .250 front sight from SDM.

I put a Hi-Viz on my 617 because it was the only one available short enough. I like the SDM on my 625 much better. SDM's are available in the Classic mounting. I have the SDM on mine as well. I like it much better than stock because of the extra length. Makes it more difficult to remove/install which should keep it in the gun longer. Only drawback is the slightly shorter sight radius.

The front sight on the 625JM is the Classic/DX sight and is removable with no tools. Push the sight toward the cylinder and lift up in the front. Then slowly release pressure while lifting and it will come out. The pin stays in place and there is a type of hook, sort of, that goes around the pin. There is a spring and plunger inside the top of barrel and these push the sight against the pin. Took longer to type than it will to remove the sight. The one with the bump is for the pin on front sight. Yours looks like an upside down anvil. Take care, Dave

You can throw the speedloader on the ground since it has (hopefully) no rounds in it. And, as mentioned, you can throw a moonclip down as long as there are no live rounds in it. Good point on the Ti cylinder. That ought to drop it down into SSR weights easily. I agree about picking up spent auto rim cases... I've only been shooting Revo for a few matches now and I LOVE picking up moonclips as compared to picking up brass from my bottom feeders

#3 I believe is actually No as the 625 is 1oz heavier than the max weight for IDPA SSR. I had looked in to it as I wanted to use my 625 in SSR and ESR so I could get my 5 gun status in IDPA. Amazingly, if you want to go with 4 gun instead, they want it done with SSR only. Take care, Dave