gunnerBU
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Posts posted by gunnerBU
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1 hour ago, waktasz said:
There are times when it can't be avoided and times when it makes sense to do it on purpose. Same with production. I'd often shoot 11 round plans if it made sense.
I agree. I’m mainly trying to do this for the unintentional slide-lock. -
My stage planning is fine. I’m not shooting idpa.
Slide lock reloads only happen when I have to take a make up shot which sometimes results in a standing reload at the next array/position if they are close.
I do need to count shots (or makeups) when shooting, but I haven’t been shooting single stack long enough to do it subconsciously.
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5 hours ago, RJH said:
I have filed the back of the slide stop and even a little on the notch on the slide before and gotten fairly consistent (I think pretty much 100%) auto slide forwarding. But depending on mags the slide can drop when you drop the mag, so mag springs may be in order if that happens (if you angle the slide stop it will probably need to be pushed fully up by the mags in order to hold). Take it slow filing and see if you can get the results you are looking for, If it is a blued slide stop and you over do it a mig welder can build it back up, it it is stainless and you go too far a replacement is not too expensive.
Good luck
That is exactly what I was looking for. I figured it was possible to find the right angle/combo, but didn’t want to waste my time if nobody ever got it working.
Thanks.
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On 7/6/2020 at 9:36 AM, dmshozer1 said:
RO should NEVER leave the shooter, period!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Rifle up, someone in the squad does the necessary downrange work.
Patching a target, resetting a swinger, etc.
I didn’t read the whole thread, but this^^^^^^
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I understand why limited guns don’t lock back, but I don’t think that makes sense for single stack. No idpa for me, at least with this gun.
Like I said, even if it’s not consistent I would rather it auto close more often than not.
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I also thought about clipping the plunger spring to weaken it, but not sure if that would cause other issues like the slide stop backing out.
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This is for USPSA.
The gun always locks back when empty, so that's not the issue. The slide on my gun (STI Trojan) sometimes closes on a reload and sometimes not. Auto close is a little faster. Hitting the slide release with my support thumb only takes a split second, so I'm not losing much time when the slide doesn't auto close. But every tenth adds up, especially in single stack.
I am looking for a way to have the slide close more often than not.
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Is there a way to consistently get the slide to auto-close/auto-forward when performing a slide-lock reload?
I couldn't find anything on this except that you can weld some material on the muzzle side of the slide stop so that it engages the slide when the mag is inserted. Surely there is an easier way to do this that someone has figured out...
What about just polishing/changing the angle on the rear of the slide stop where it engages the slide when locked back? Not sure if that would work, but seems like the right angle on the slide stop could easily release the slide (depending on the tension from the recoil spring).
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Nothing but good things to say about them and their work. Don’t hesitate to call or stop by. Joe will take care of you.
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How do the Tripp mags and pads work with the Ice magwell?
I have a Dawson Ice (with gap) on a Trojan 45. I'm using Wilson 47D mags with Dawson pads. Fully loaded, the mags are almost impossible to seat.
Are the Tripp mags (or Wilson ETM with shorter Dawson pads) longer than the 47Ds?
I want to get mags that work and are easy to reload, even if that means cutting coils in the 47Ds since I already have them.
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Yes, I cleaned it. I had hoppes oil on the rails, but I guess it didn't provide enough lubrication. I’ll be using slide glide from now on. I never thought the slide and frame would seize with hoppes oil.
STI does not make stainless guns to my knowledge.
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I recently picked up an STI Trojan from Dawson Precision. I’ve shot one match with it. Probably less than 250 rounds total through the gun.
I noticed the the slide was a little stiff and thought it was the disconnector catching on the slide. I disassembled the gun and noticed what looks like galling on the right frame rail.
Has anyone ever seen this on an STI? I read about this happening on stainless guns in the past.
I’ll be calling Dawson in the morning.
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Looks great!
How is the checkering on the front and back straps? Looks pretty shallow, like the newer Stock 2s.
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For Production, I have a tricked out SP01 Shadow from CZ custom, tricked out Tanfo LimPro and stock 2 from Patriot Defense, and a Stock gen3 G34. The triggers on the non-Glock guns are nicer than the G34, but I can shoot the Glock faster.
I shot the G34 for years before I got the other guns. I thought the better triggers and heavier weight would be more comfortable to shoot, but I still shoot the Glock faster (splits and transitions). I always thought of the Glock grip angle as making it harder to get used to the other platforms and never thought about the grip angle actually helping with recoil control.
Plus the square grip of the Glock locks into my hands better than anything else, including a Brazos custom 2011. I’ve only shot the stock 2 a few times and liked it, but I’m nowhere near feeling comfortable with it.
I just got an STI Trojan to try out single stack for a while, but I think I will come back to a Glock for production.
Glad to know I’m not the only one that keeps coming back to the G-rock.
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I think my Bladetech holsters are the classic version. I purchased most of mine before they made the signature series.
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Bladetech DOH (or boss drop for something a little more sturdy)
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35 minutes ago, Paulie said:
What was the result of doing this? Was your vision faster for transitions? Easier to see recoil arc?
I’m righty with left eye dominance but I don’t know of any issues it causes for me. No double vision or anything. So should I try the tape?
Without the tape over my dominant eye, I have double vision of the front sight. The tape gets rid of the “second” sight effortlessly. I don’t have to squint or move my head. So, I would say that it makes my transitions and follow-up shots faster because I can pick up the front sight quicker with the tape than I can without it.
Had I used my dominant eye when I started shooting, it may be a different story. But, I’ve never thought that the tape affected my progress or performance.
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I'm cross eye dominant (right hand, left eye).
Just put a small piece of tape on your glasses over your dominant eye. Make sure the tape is small enough so that it blocks the front sight, but you can see under/around it for movement and reloads. This gives you the benefit of both eyes open for movement/reloads. When the buzzer goes off, you'll never know its there.
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My video only shows the 1-piece.
The only place a 2-pc belongs? In the trash can. A $30 single piece sear is such a cheap upgrade.
My mistake. I remember a video with a 2 piece . Maybe henning?
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It is a PITA and takes a while. Keep trying.
You have to put a lot of downward pressure on the spring.
Watch Memphis Mechanic's video if you haven't already.
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27 minutes ago, OPENB said:
When this lands, all you guys that are hoarding your old style LimPro's should sell them and get this. I'll be in line for an old style.
+1 (except that I am one of the old style hoarders). I don't want to have to worry about which size mags are in my bag.
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Really wish it was hard chrome like a LimPro
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1 hour ago, SCTaylor said:
the new(er) offerings
Another "Dad joke"?
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I would be interested to try a .140x.090. I have a .150x.090, but haven't installed it yet. I want to keep the rear as low as possible and prefer a narrow front.
Cross-eye dominance and grip
in Handgun Techniques
Posted
I’m right handed and left eye dominant. I just put scotch tape on my glasses over my left eye so I can see under it. That’s the only way I can shoot without seeing two front sights. I tried using my left eye without the tape, but saw two front sights.
if it works without covering an eye, I say just use your dominant eye.
Get a normal grip, align the sights with your non-dominant eye, and then move the rear of the gun toward your dominant eye until the sights are aligned with your dominant eye. Don’t move your head or adjust your grip. Either of those brings another variable into your set-up for each shot.