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kurtm

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Posts posted by kurtm

  1. Well, on a low power scope the "ranging" feature of mils, hash marks, are absolutely useless until you get to around 3-3.5X. Matter of fact until you get to at least 3X the retical, for all practical purposes is invisible, especially in changing light. Very few targets in the U.S. Are presented like you are used to "over there". Here it is usually in your face OR way out yonder, there are virtually no intermediate targets. Also we don't do paper targets much beyond 30 yards here, so the scopes are almost always used on 1X or full up, and when they are used at full magnification the B.D.C. feature in the scope works just fine! Remember the center cross hair or dot or whatever is still one at what ever power you decide to use, it is only the B.D.C. that changes with second focal plane scopes, so my 200 yard zero is ALWAYS a 200 yard zero no matter what power.

    Now to the glowing red dot, if we remember to turn it on its great, if not there is no aim point, if the battery fails and there are no replacements the scope is now a fixed what ever power for all intents and purposes, because at lower powers you don't have a useful retical. Also with the dot turned WAY UP for a bunch of close targets, at around 200 yards the bloom will almost cover a 10" flash target making long range harder than being helpful at lower power. There is many a stage that I will shot on 1X WITHOUT the dot on, because I know the next shots will be on a 300 yrd+ target array that will require precision shooting. The reason I can do that is because at 1X I have a full sized useful retical due to the second focal plane.

    Now with all that said, my favorite 3-gun scope ever is the Trijicon TA-11 which is a fixed 3.5X with the best B.D.C. design ever....in my opinion.....which is just like the rest of this post. What works for me may not work for you or anyone else.

  2. Not quite, The impact at 25 meters is supposed to be 3.6 cm low (1.5" about) that means the bullet is still climbing into the sight, which roughly correlates to a 37-43 meter zero for a 300 meter zero, more or less so the idea of a 37m zero on your 300 m stadia mark is about right. and don't forget the Corps is still running 20" barrels.

  3. S.O.F. didn't have separate divisions at all! it was all "tactical" if you will. when they started to allow scopes they had a unique way of handling it. On any stage that there was a rifle used, there was a 100% for the fastest scope shooter and a 100% for the fastest iron sight shooter. It was all considered one division and all the scores were mixed together at the end. I really like this and feel that all these different divisions have just arbitrarily watered down the whole sport. The whole concept of different divisions came from USPSA

  4. Yes in general a 37 yard "zero" is about a 300 yard zero, depending on bullet and velocity, but I think I would want a bit better read on it than that and would zero at the farthest distance available. Remember any little difference at 37 yards due to bullet weight and velocity is completely masked, where as farther out it really starts to play a huge difference! I find most folks don't like shooting groups far away because it is hard to get a "good" group. Think of shooting at 200-300 yards for group like eating broccoli....you may not like it, but it's good for you! :)

  5. It would be an exceptional M-80 ball type bullet that would be sub 2 M.O.A. Don't be real disappointed if you don't get the results you are looking for. If you just have them have fun, but don't expect greatness. in that weight range Sierra and Nosler make a great 155 grain match bullet and Sierra makes a really nice 150 grain match bullet, that I have had good results with out to 400 or so.

  6. I am well versed in IPSC rifle, having shot the Nordic rifle 3 times, and Euro Rifle Championships in your country, plus many matches else where. I like to use a longer barrel, but I believe you shoot open. the 16" hybrid is an excellent choice for your application and they also have a hybrid 18" both are light, chrome lined, and accurate.

  7. I think I could agree to that if we tracked both cold AND hot groups, just to catch those divergent few! From the sounds of it Curtis has been tracking it, after all why would a shooter at his level even bother with groups at 12,000 rounds if it weren't to track it, but I still maintain that you need to see what they do hot much more so in our game than not.

    BTW I think you mean deviant path instead of divergent path. ;)

  8. I understand that Mark, but we are not talking new rifles here. I can see what your saying for a brand new rifle, but in my case it shot great until about 4800 after that, cold good hot bad....it was a thermal fit barrel. I don't think taking it apart and putting it back together would change it. John yanked the barrel put it in a different receiver and it did the same thing as it was doing to me. So we are back to the same place. BTW I have shot several ARs that the nut was loose on, one you could even move the barrel in and out a few thou and even then they were much better than 20 MOA. So yes fit is important, but it doesn't explain what I have first hand experienced!

  9. I guess it is all in the way you read Tom. The O.P. stated that it would START (read cold here) under 1 M.O.A. at 300 yards, but after 5-6 groups it would start to open up (read hot here). So lets assume 3-5 shot groups, so it started COLD and then after 15-30 rounds (hot) it would open up. Now remember it is stated that this barrel has around 12,000 rounds on it. I was replying to the specifics of the post.

    Now in all fairness I could see how someone could reply to the more general TOPIC post which stated " Best method to use to see if a rifle barrel is shot out?, but I would proffer this.

    If it wouldn't group well cold it is shot out (or if new a bad barrel, which this one seemed to be fine for the first 12,000 rounds)

    If it won't group well when hot it is shot out (unless the group wonders due to heat, which would have been noted when new, not at 12,000 rounds) BTW Curtis is a darn fine shooter.

    I really doubt that this issue has anything to do with the barrel nut, or extension, I know for certain in my case as well as Chris's that it had nothing to do with it.

    So Tom, with a bit of thread drift here, how can a rifle shoot a 3/4 MOA group when cold, then group around 20 MOA after a 30 round mag dump, and then again group at 3/4 MOA when cooled back down with the cold bore groups (5 rounds ) landing exactly on top of each other, same ammo, same rifle rest, same day, same shooter, etc. The barrel I am talking about had around 5000 rounds on it and it looked good under a bore scope. The extension wasn't cracked it was properly torqued as was the barrel nut. There was no bind on the gas tube, it didn't string it scattered! I sent it back to J.P. and they couldn't figure it out either. anyway a new barrel and it is back to fine, so all is good. But I really would like to know how you think this happens....and once again, I'm not the only one!

    Mark both your statements seem to say the same thing with different conclusions. I am not trying to pick a fight, but could you clarify it for me a bit.

  10. Then please explain the phenomenon I have personally experienced. My barrel when cold would easily do 3/4" groups, every day. It never showed any signs of scattering. When hot it wouldn't hold a 20 M.O.A. group. And on the very same day, with the very same ammo when it had cooled completely it would once again shot a 3/4 M.O.A group.

    I am not the only one to experience this as noted. So please let me know how a cold group would indicate that the barrel is good or bad. Curtis is experiencing the very same problem, so please let him know that if it groups good cold, the barrel is just fine.

  11. Well, I would recommend you retry your experiment NOT IN A REST. The internal ballistics do change over the course of barrel length, but I would tell you right now your seeing the outside influence of the rest, NOT the barrel! You can brace it over sandbags, but you still need to hold it like you normally would, I.E. hand on fore end, shouldered the same as you would shooting off hand!

  12. I disagree. Hot barrel groups are the determiner. Both Sechiotano and I have had barrels that would group well under an inch when cool, but run a magazine through it and then try a group and it was scattering wildly. My last J.P. barrel when cold would give nice 3/4" groups at 100. get it hot and it would only put two or three bullets on a FULL SIZED IPSC target. What Curtis is describing is not that uncommon, at least in my little world! This seems to be related to Stainless barrels. I know of at least 7 barrels that were like this. They didn't look too bad with a bore scope either, but the proof is in the results!

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