Lebayer

I've heard of modules doing that. A duracell 1/3 battery should last you a month or more depending on how much you use it. Try using a module from your other c-more to verify its the module and not the c-more itself. I'll try that; thank you.

Just jumping back into this topic, after a few months. Been using 4.3 g of Clays, with a 124 g MG JHP, and CCI SP primers, for steel, out of an STI shorty, with comp. Works well, especially with a 16moa dot on the C-More!

One of my C-More sights just eats batteries; sent an email to the company but got no response. Will a bad module cause that problem? I change the battery every match, which is annoying and expensive. Thanks for the help.

Well, I apologize for being slow to enter the discussion. I too had heard that Federal Small Pistol Magnum primers were the same as Federal Small Rifle, so I loaded some .223 for an AR, using the pistol magnum primers. I've shot several hundred, at a consistent velocity of 3100 fps, and have had no trouble. No doubling - although that used to happen a lot with a McCormick trigger, whatever the ammo! - no piercing, no flattening, no nuttin. I used 25.7 gr of TAC in the load. Once Fed Small Rifle primers are readily available, I'll quit using the pistol primers but so far, so good...

Quick - if tardy - question. Do you load primed rifle brass into the Dillon casefeeder and just run them through the normal process. I use a 650 and I'm setting up to load .223. I have lots of primed brass and want to just run it through but thought I'd check if there was any concern about (1) loading them in the casefeeder and (2) having them drop down the tube. Thanks.

It's probably close to 1/4" of extra freebore. The longest I've been able to load 9 Major is 1.195" using 124 gr MG JHP. You could go longer with a heavier bullet, but defeats the purpose of a comp on the end of the barrel. The longer overall bullet length should help with feeding. Bill Loading longer seems like a good idea. I just happened to pick up a Caspian, advertised as 9mm. Turns out, it's 9x21. I put an 8lb spring in it, tightened the extractor and shot about 80 rounds through it, without hiccup. It was accurate at 10 yards but I hadn't loaded any ammo so had to stop. A few of the rounds I borrowed were loaded for Major PF and worked fine. I had thought of reaming out to 9x23 and shooting SuperComp - despite the loose fit with the straight walled case but think I'll try 9mm, at 1.195. May I ask what your load is? I plan to use a 124g MG JHP, on top of about 7gr of Longshot, with CCI small rifle primers. That's close to my standard load for 38 Super (7.4g), which is very consistent and reliable.

Only one of you mentioned OAL. I'm assuming 1.2 to 1.225, with JHP of either 115g or 124g? I've tried working a load using my standard powder (Longshot) with an open "Shorty". Don't have the recoil spring just right yet but it shoots pretty well with 115g MG RN and 6.1g of powder. Usually, I'd use a 130g MG RN with 7.4g. The Shorty is very difficult to control with that load. Since I use a couple of other 5" guns for regular matches, etc., thought I'd devote the Shorty to steel. I'll try all the recommended loads and see what works best. Thanks for the tips.

I'm confused re the set screw. You epoxied the JP Melt mount (what JP uses on 1100's). Ok. Is the set screw intended to lift up the sight, to a level position. I take it the mount itself - having been glued - isn't lifting off the barrel. Do I have that right? Would a glued wedge on the mount work as well, assuming the screws holding the sight will hold. I have a melt mount from JP but am reluctant to cut the rib until I see a successful set up. Thanks.

Thank you. Did you typically use a single load, with Universal Clays, or did you rely on several? Would you mind sharing?

Have you tried using a Tec Loader with the FN? Would certainly keep you thumb out of the action! Assuming it worked.

Any experience with rigging some sort of chute on to an SX2 or FN SLP? I have access to the latter, at a good price. It seems well set-up for open shooting, except for the problem of not having an Arrendondo assist available. Can the Tec Loaders work without one? Or, will a bracket designed for use with a Win 1200 work? Thanks for the help.

Is anybody out there reloading for the SLP? I have a new MEC 9000 and would like to load but some have suggested that the savings are minor. Still, it would seem worth it to develop a load that works well with the gun and meets most challenges in 3 Gun shooting. I'd love some advice.

Hello, Loved reading the posts here; very helpful and informative! I'm thinking hard about jumping into 3gun; folks seem to have great fun and suffer huge frsutration, all for the same money. In any case, I'm considering guns, with the 11-87 being recommended, if cost is an issue (!) and the Benelli, if I have a low tolerance for fussing with the gun. I actually enjoy fussing so I'm inclined to try the Remi. For sure, I'll want to load my own ammo and will probably shoot in Open, so I can run my favorite pistol. Need all kinds of advice, I'm sure, but am particularly interested in reloading advice. What length shells, loads, etc. I've got a Mec 9000 coming and would like to to starting stocking up on hulls, etc., just to prepare. Thanks for any help you can offer.

I'm a little late in contributing to this discussion, having only recently switched to the Light Slide Glide for my open gun, but I do have a question: I have a new stain on the STI frame steel, from the slide stop hole forward and on the inside of the dust cover, which I attribute to the use of the Slide Glide. It does not come off with handi-wipe, or Hoppe's, or brass cleaner, etc. Happy to live with the stain, if that is the price of using this fine lube, but can I get it off? Does brake cleaner work? Thanks.

I feel your pain! In general, I have an easier time running large primers, for .45, than small primers, for .38 Super and .40 cal. Having had several conversations with folks at Dillon, I've finally gotten to where I can get through fifty or sixty rounds, without a primer problem! That's not a particularly good average but much better. Also, Winchester primers seem slightly larger and easier to shear than, say, either Remington or Federal primers. The suggestion regarding use of a smoother, more subtle technique, is also good. You should be able to feel a primer problem before it jams you up. Pulling a case out of Station 2, when you get a wrong feel, saves lots of powder mess and time. Also, I don't fling nearly as much powder around as I used to. I loaded my first batch in mid-January but have run about 10k since. Doesn't make me an expert but I'm clearly better than I was. You will improve, despite or because of the frustration. By the way, I've got an electric primer filler I'd be happy to sell you! Just added to the aggravation.

I use the large plate for .40 cal and it works fine, although I'll probably try the small, to see if it matters. Actually, I have more problems with case flips in the feeder tube using .45 ACP than .40. Go figure. However, keeping the bin at least about half full seems to reduce flips.