KevinB

I've been a Glock certified armorer for about 10 years now. The bumps on the Gen 4 trigger bars are there to facilitate a left-handed set up on the mag release. I run conservative in my advice, and I always tell folks that it the gun is going to be used in a left-hand configuration and carried for duty/self-defense, keep the gen 4 bar.

When my G35 started doing that, it was because the rear of the striker had worn down in comparison to the back of the trigger bar (called the anvil, I think) and it would just barely catch the striker and releasing the trigger would cause the striker to slip off the back of the trigger bar and go bang. On the plus side, It wasn't full auto and my splits were insane. Yes, I replaced the striker (which seemed to be the most worn of the two parts).

http://www.torontosun.com/2017/06/12/vancouver-man-dies-after-shooting-himself-during-pistol-contest-at-gun-range Does anyone have any information on this event? The only details I can find are not specific.

My knifemaking buddies say that in order for the metal to get hot enough to have that effect it would be melting the holster. That was my concern as well a while back (there's even a thread around here on it) and one of the forum members here recommended using aluminum plates to suck the heat out. That's what I do now and it works like a charm.

Talked to STI's guys just now, and they contradicted the Titegroup claim, as does my years of experience with that powder in those guns. I would love to hear what the recurring problems are with the Titegroup/STI mix. Man, I'm creeping up on 100 posts. I need to slack off.

You're seriously going to drop a line that one of the most popular manufacturers of guns for USPSA recommends not using one of the most popular powders in our sport and not look into it further and update us? I have shot titegroup for a decade with no issue, unless there was an issue I missed. I did crack a slide on my STI, but the guru conducting the autopsy said it was due to someone jacking up the hard chroming process. I'm already calling Bowen today on a sight issue, so I may throw in a web search on it or a call to STI. BTW, went through training in Charleston for a few months. Great food around there!

I'll give them a call this week. It's been on my mind for some reason!

Thanks for the responses! I looked at filing the notch, but it's VERY short to begin with. I could file it down to the assembly and still not see the whole gold bead. I did see the references to the Bowen sights, but not a lot of guidance on which I would need for my .250 front (I'm really trying not to buy another ~75.00 part). I tried looking for factory options, but perhaps my Search-fu was weak then because I didn't come up with anything useful. I'll continue my search and post if I come up with anything.

I have a factory 5" 629 .44 that I bought a .250" gold bead front sight for. I could have gone taller but I have had a hard time finding holsters for tall front sights so I went with the shorter one. In any case, with the factory rear sight blade I can only see half of the gold bead when I hold a proper sight picture. I have read several threads on a similar or same topic but none directly answered the my question, which is: What are my options for a rear blade or sight assembly that will have a deep enough notch to see that gold bead I paid a lot for!? I can upload a photo of the rear sight assembly if necessary.

I'm shooting a Glock 35, so loading long isn't an option. I was posting on two threads about this so I may have missed one with the resolution, but I've been loading to 1.130 (which in actual practice gives me 1.128-1.132) with 4.8 grains of N320 which puts me at 914 - 944 (30 extreme spread) with my 180 grain XTreme bullets. Shoots really soft! I'm using a past-its-prime KKM barrel which needs replacing for now, but the problem got solved.

I didn't, but Xtreme is a great bullet and I'd really surprised if they were out of spec. All I can say is "gremlins."

My technique is solid. Been reloading 20+ years and have an eye for detail. That being said, I lengthened it out a bit and added a tenth of a grain of powder and the magic did happen. My ES went to 20 and it's bouncing between 926 and 946 and has the same felt recoil (to me) as Titegroup going 875. There is magic in that bottle, it just took some chanting to make it happen!

I feel your pain. I just switched to N320 to try it out after hearing how great it was. I'm experiencing big spreads over a 5-8 round string on my chrono, which I am talking about on another thread on here. Still getting it worked out.

I agree it will be slightly different, but if it has that much inconsistency with that much attention to detail, it will just be worse when I loosen the controls.

I zeroed the scale to a check weight I took to a pharmaceutical lab and had the weight confirmed (legit check weights are outside my budget and it's cheaper to buy a few packs of low grade check weights and toss the ones that are too far off) and made sure the lighting on the scale created no shadows but was far enough away not to heat it up before using a magnifying glass to check the lines' alignment on the scale. I am a USPSA guy with the soul of a benchrest shooter. I like the balance beam because if the load is within the margin of error on the electronic, it won't always roll the number up or down. On a balance beam, I get an idea of where it is in small increments by where the lines are lining up. I am using Xtreme's 180 grain heavy plated bullets with Winchester primers. I always hand weigh my test ammo and then knock them out on a 650. On any prog press, there will be variations in the OAL, and I noticed the velocity difference was pretty big between 1.125 and 1.130. I work a rotating schedule, so this is my Monday and I will have to wait until my next days off to nail down the problem. When I find it, I will say "Of course, dummy, you should have thought of that to begin with!"

I wasn't using a drop. I hand-measured every round on a balance beam scale. I've been reloading a long time at this point and it has me a bit stumped!

TG does heat a gun up. I have a thread around here somewhere where I was looking for a way to cool it down and a welder suggested aluminum plates. Worked much better than I expected. In the time it takes to load mags it goes from too hot to touch to almost ambient (ambient in Florida, that is). Usually takes about 100 rounds in fast six and 12 round drills to get it that hot. This week I'm in the middle of trying out N320 after about 10-12 years of shooting Titegroup. With an OAL of 1.125 and 4.8 grains of N320 I was getting about 950fps avg with an unacceptable extreme spread of 65 (978/913) out of my G35 with the KKM barrel and was starting to flatten some primers on the faster rounds. Has me concerned a bit, but I'm going to load to 1.130 and go again to see if I can eliminate the overpressure symptoms and stay major. I need it to work. I went a bit overboard when I saw the N320 for sale.

I was watching Shooting USA yesterday and saw footage of Max shooting the Production Division at the Steel Challenge. Anyone know what holster he was using? I've been questing for a new holster lately and the one he had on looked like something I'd be interested in. I did do a search for this, but did not come up with anything. If your Google-fu is stronger than mine, I will accept the snarky responses as long as the info is there!

Which target are you folks using for this?

My Lightning Strike Ti striker wore out in about 9 months. The wear was on the engagement surface with the trigger bar. By "wore out," I mean it lost enough material the engagement was no longer sound and it would slip off during trigger reset, causing the pistol to double, triple, and in one particularly exciting string I was trying to double tap a close target and ended up with 5 holes. Glad I have a strong grip. I'm deciding between hunting a new trigger to keep it somewhat relevant to my duty gun or just going back to my STI.

I have a Safariland ALS, and my Dawson .300 front sight dragged across the retention mechanism. I was able to do some unlicensed dremelling and reduce it a lot. Further dremelling would probably eliminate it, but I haven't done it yet.

I expect parts to wear, but not wear out in 9 months. It's possible there's some tolerance stacking going on that would mean the striker wouldn't have to wear as much to start failing. I've got the 3.5 connector in there now but everything else is back to stock. I'll call Lightning Strike during the week and see what they say. All that being said, it's not like I'm going to stop shooting until the issue is resolved, so maybe I'll find some love for the trigger that's in there now in the mean time. I hate grinding/polishing stuff to make it work. The fact that 99% of parts are drop-in is the whole reason I went away from the 2011 platform and started shooting a Glock to begin with! That, and replacement parts are cheap.

I always assume spring weights are a relative measure among the same companies' spring lineup, so I wouldn't be surprised to find that's the case. The top of the trigger bar and the factory striker had about 80k rounds on them before I switched to the Ti, so they are super smooth. The weight didn't actually double. Hyperbole is my go-to when I'm frustrated! The 2# ZEV didn't have enough oomph to set off Win SP primers 100% of the time with the factory striker, so I went with the lighter one and it was back to 100%. The lighter striker spring, the low drag plunger with the light firing pin safety spring, the 3.5 connector, and the extra power trigger reset spring had a profound effect of the weight of the trigger pull. I'm going to be chasing that again in a version with better longevity.

Reviving this topic because I just started having this problem. I run a titanium striker, a ghost 3.5 connector, a ZEV firing pin safety plunger, and ZEV springs (trigger reset, 2# striker, and reduced power FPS spring). I thought maybe it was the FPS spring not getting the plunger down so I replaced it with the factory one. Not a good idea! Now it does it every time whereas before it was extremely intermittent. I replaced all the go-fast parts with factory parts except the connector, which of course fixed the problem on the dry fire side, but doubles the pull weight of the trigger and I have yet to live fire it (tomorrow will tell). Before anyone asks, no, I have not done any grinding on any of the parts. I'm guessing this is traceable to a particular part, so I'm asking the forum for some expert opinions. After converting the files to a manageable size, the audio is out of synch, but if anyone needs to see it: (Web page locks up when I try to embed a link. Thank God for Auto Save, because I honestly wouldn't have re-typed my post!) https://youtu.be/PjG2855Vz8s EDIT: I installed the half-plate to see what was going on, and it appears the Ti striker slips off the top of the trigger bar as it moves forwards during reset. The factory striker doesn't, so there's the problem. A close examination of the Ti striker shows some wear at the engagement point, but it doesn't LOOK like it would be enough to make it slip, but apparently it is. My G35 is back in factory trim for now and I suppose I'll be researching new trigger/striker stuff. I thought I had this figured out, but I'm not putting 1/5th the cost of the gun into a new striker every 9 months. Still, if anyone has any insight, I'm all ears!

Getting back to this after a hot (hot, hot) Florida summer. Rather than deal with water, I did, in fact, go with a couple scrap aluminum plates along with an aluminum rod. They aren't an inch thick, but they do the job. Lock the slide back, run the rod down the barrel and lay it on a plate with second plate on top and it's darn near ambient temperature by the time I've loaded five magazines. Welders for the win.