kimmie

"Forgiveness is not English meant that the method of Duane Thomas is the best" - probably means 'sorry, I don't know English, I meant to say that the method................'

"I think the board of Duane Thomas is the best we can and must do" (from Google translator) (I think he means 'post of Duane')

The plates are mostly for practice and local club 'action shooting' matches. But this info is good to know for our USPSA matches next winter. Our range is small so we should be able to see how they get hit and now I'll know how to place them to try to avoid some of the issues I read about on other threads. As a matter of fact, I think I'll print out one of those threads to have on hand for reference. Thanks for all the info. I learn more here about the rules than having read my book 100 times already. And getting ready to read it 100 times more! So much to learn.

o.k. Found it - rule 4.3.1.6. Guess I need to re-read my book. And it's been beaten to death on another thread! Again, thanks for the heads up! Donna

Really? I didn't know that. I guess I thought it would be the same as an edge hit on a popper. Can you ask for a calibration on these kind of plates? Thanks for the heads up.

Funny. Maybe that's why I'm confused - I have to hit them???? Anyway - just got 4 10" hinged plates from Karl via UPS. Once I made up my mind what I wanted, I got them in a matter of days. They are 'EXACTLY' what I was thinking of. From what I can see, the contruction of them is solid and they look really easy to mount - like Karl said - a 2 x 4 is all you need. Can't wait to get them to the range to try them. I'll post pictures when I get a chance. And a very nice discount too.

Mine. I bought it from someone on here a few years back. Not the signature series. Supposedly built by Claudio. Linked barrel. It's on an SVI frame and last year I had Brandon put the Signature grips on it after feeling them on someone else's gun and loving them. Bobby had made me some really nice grips but the Signature grips really fit my hand well and the weight of them really balances the gun for me. Best gun I've ever owned. Haven't had one issue with it except that it doesn't like shorter loaded ammo if the bullet has a sharp profile. Montana Golds feed at any length. I will never be as accurate as this gun can shoot! And I have a long line of people wanting to buy it if I ever decide to sell it. Not.

Nice! And that looked like a great match!

Two new ladies in one day! Watch out guys! Welcome!

Welcome! Women's involvement and participation in the sport is growing by leaps and bounds! Shooters are the 'bestest' folks and new shooters of all kinds are welcomed with open arms. No matter where I've gone in the country to shoot - I've been made to feel right at home and the folks on this forum are the awesome. You're in Area 7. I don't know about matches in CT but Manville in R.I. has regular matches which might be closer to you? Hopefully we'll cross paths at a match some time. I'll be the tall, 'brown' lady!

Awww - a bull dog! Bullies are the best! Here's my 'Mojo'. He actually likes the range but won't keep the 'gear' on. I just make sure to keep him far enough back so his eyes and ears stay safe. (he just turned 3 in March)

Thanks. Don't think I'll ever use spray paint again, if I can help it. We did the large batch of targets for the sectionals outdoors so they dried a little faster but I don't remember it taking too long. And we did a lot of targets. When we do it indoors, we just line them up on a wall - and again, dry time isn't that long. Even if you overlap them while they're wet, the paint only gets on the back of the other target. Don't remember what brand of paint -cheapo on sale from Home Depot. I think it was semi-gloss. Let me know how it goes if you decide on the roller and paint. (Been doing some research on my ancestors from your neck of the woods - Chester, Suffern, Ramapough Mountains - are you from there originally?) Well Kimmie I put your latex paint idea to the test IT WORKED! I had to paint 300+ targets in four different colors. We had a crew of 5 to 7. and were able to knock this task out in about 3 hours. We found that very cheap paint was a little thin (watery). Which just meant you had to be a little more careful and watch for runs. The targets dried very fast sitting in the sun. There was a little curling of the targets but stacking them with the paint side down should over time flatten them out again. Paint goes a long way when doing targets. So once you buy a gallon of paint you may never go back to spray for target paint prep. But for a small amounts or on match day can spray is the way to go. Oh and we used foam brushes which worked great. And I am not originally from Suffern. And at the rate this state is going I may some be running away Great! Glad it worked for you! And just make sure you don't run away to Massachusetts! We've either got you beat or are pretty close when it comes to ridiculous gun laws!

Thanks. Don't think I'll ever use spray paint again, if I can help it. We did the large batch of targets for the sectionals outdoors so they dried a little faster but I don't remember it taking too long. And we did a lot of targets. When we do it indoors, we just line them up on a wall - and again, dry time isn't that long. Even if you overlap them while they're wet, the paint only gets on the back of the other target. Don't remember what brand of paint -cheapo on sale from Home Depot. I think it was semi-gloss. Let me know how it goes if you decide on the roller and paint. (Been doing some research on my ancestors from your neck of the woods - Chester, Suffern, Ramapough Mountains - are you from there originally?)

I used a small foam roller and a couple of gallons of cheapo black paint last year to do targets for our sectionals. Found it WAY easier and quicker. Poured the paint in one of those little plastic roller pans. One person taped and the other painted. True - you can't stack them up and you need space to line them up while they dry but that didn't seem to be a problem. We stood them up side by side against a chair or table and by the time we needed more space, the first ones were dry. They dried pretty quickly unless you went too heavy on the paint. The foam rollers and paint pans come in packs and are disposable. If you put the roller in a plastic bag when you're done, it doesn't dry out. The coverage was great - more consistent than with a spray and easier to stay within the lines, no cardboard mask that you have to hold in place needed. But the biggest plus was - no sore and tired trigger finger from pressing the spray can nozzle, when I got done. I bought 2 gallons of black paint on sale. A year later - still using the last gallon for our local matches, so I'd say it was more than cost effective.

Thanks for the fix John - got my pliers out and will try that before I start trying to bend metal!

Yes - this is true!(Bobby is the bestest) And I am still amazed at that fact (being sponsored by Bobby) every day! But since I'm a do-it-yourself kinda girl (you should see me with a miter saw), I was hoping it would be an easy DIY fix, like bending a spring or something. But, I'm slowly learning (after several disasters) that nothing is simple or easy with custom guns!

Thanks - I'll give it a try. They are measuring more than .390. Absolutely YES to the practice! Looking forward to it.

Yup - that's what it sounds like. How do I adjust the lips? With pliers? *will we be seeing you locally soon?

I have a .40 SVI limited and run STI magazines with Grams springs and followers, which are about a year old. I don't leave my mags loaded and usually shoot once or twice a month. Mags were all tuned over a year ago and ran fine up until a couple of months ago. I usually load to 18 rounds. I don't have it modified to not lock back after the last round, but occasionally some of the magazines will lock back with one round left in the magazine. At my level of shooting, that really didn't bother me too much plus I shot limited 10 for years and still forget quite often that I have more than 10 rounds to play with:rolleyes: so I reload more than I need to. For the past month or so, if I go to slide lock and there's no round left in the magazine, the gun locks up and I can't get the mag to drop. I can't even pull it out. I first noticed this at a steel match where I was only loading 10 rounds and planning on going to slide lock. On closer inspection tonite, I saw what was happening - it seems like the slide locks back but not all the way back, the slide release is just short of catching the indent in the slide. If I try to push the slide forward, I can't because the back part of the follower is sticking up and hitting the breechface. I have to pull the slide all the way back until the slide release catches and then the mag will fall out. I tried to pinpoint which mags this was happening with but it's not happening consistently on any one in particular. If I don't go to slide lock,everything runs fine, so normally this isn't an issue. But, this shouldn't be happening. Is there something I can do to the springs in the magazines? Or do the mags need to be retuned? (They hit cement floors alot during our indoor winter matches). Some of the followers seem to sit higher in the mags than others and some seem to 'tilt' more to one side than others. Thanks for any help!

Glad I could help

I don't have the kit in front of me but as I recall, you have to have it so that the guide rod is sticking out quite a bit so that you can tighten it all the way. You can't tighten it enough if the guide rod is 'flush' with the muzzle. The other thing that gave me some issues was that the slide release doesn't go in like on a regular gun. You have to lay the slide release in place already against the plunger with the holes lined up,without the pin inserted. Then insert the 'pin' while pushing the slide release back against the plunger with your finger to get the holes lined up. Make sense? See the pic with the guide rod extended. Yes, you have to loosen the guide rod first. Put in the slide release pin and then tighten it. You'll feel it when it's tight. You don't need to 'muscle' it though.

I have one of these and love it. To lock in the slide release, you have to tighten the 'guide rod' which has threads on the muzzle end of it. It comes with a 'wrench' type tool that you use. I don't know how to better describe it but the guide rod tightens back against the slide release to hold it in place. I don't know about the other issue that you are having but mine can get 'stuck open' at an angle when it's not mounted to the gun. You have to kinda 'pull and lift' slightly to disengage it.

Yup! Those are them!!! Thanks!

Thanks guys - now I have someplace to start.

Yes - and like these but maybe mounted to wood?