HarperCZ

N320. Yes - I am inclined to ignore the pattern for now and just run based on function.

My SP-01 Bullshadows drop most of the brass just a foot or two out and forward. A lighter recoil spring (from 11 to 10 lbs) made very little change. This is with 135 power factor ammo. Should I try even lower recoil spring or is this the nature of this gun? They run well otherwise.

I realize this is late but I had the same exact issue after installing a CGW kit and it was due to the trigger bar spring being out of adjustment. It dragged on the trigger and I had to push it forward with my finger. Look at the picture on the tutorials on CGW website for guidance on adjusting it.

I have not noticed an issue with my older 2.0 4.25 but my new 5" metal Competitor is definitely shorter or tighter chambered than my Apex barrel that I replaced it with.

Mine broke within 2000 rounds and my second gun is also about to break. I notice that it starts to light strike or no strike right before failure. In mine, the trigger bar has a lot of lateral movement that seems to put stress on that part. Over on the FB M&P group, multiple reports of the same failure. I love the feel of the trigger but that failure rate is unacceptable. I have moved to Apex in all my guns now - I have over 20K on my oldest trigger from them.

You will see a difference after 10 yards. At 10 yards the difference may not be worth it to you but after that it certainly will be noticeable. At 15 yards, the stock barrel opens up the group to a couple of inches, with the Apex, I can shoot shots touching ( this is all done standing freehand not at a rest). I also noticed on my new Competitor that it was more fussy with OAL and profile than the Apex. Not hard to fit with the proper tools and the install video.