Westy

I used to wear a Milt Sparks Summer Special, but I tried a new manufacturer, BearClaw Holsters, and thier IWB is more comfortable and is what I carry now. They will make the holster to your specs which really helped. http://www.bearclawholsters.com

The competition pack is: reduced power striker spring, reduced power safety block spring and an extra power trigger spring. When I ran my ISMI 15 lb recoil spring in the G35, I would about half the time (usually when it was cold out, like snow in the air) have problems cycling my first shot in a full mag with Arredondo 20 round set up. It seemed the slide just ran out of gas before it locked up and I would have to tap the slide into battery. Put the 17 lb'er back in, and I can shoot at 20 below and have no failures of any kind whatsover. In the G34, I had the same probem above with the 13 lb'er and Arredondo. I put the ISMI 15 lb in, and it runs flawlessly. Just can't pass the vertical test until I get up to 17, so I run with the 17.

I run the Wolff Competition Pack in my G34 and G35 and they fail the vertical test with both the ISMI 15 and the 13 Lb recoil springs. The slide moves back a solid 1/8 inch. The competition packs appear to be made to work correctly with the stock 17 lb springs. At least these are my results. I am very happy with this set-up and the 25 cent trigger job.

I have the JP tigger on my DPMS and I think this is the best. One of my fellow shooters has the DPMS trigger and JP reduced power springs and we can compare side by side. If you need to go cheap, those JP springs do wonders for the stock trigger. The full trigger set-up is still way better, and one thing you don't get with springs is stops. If you need cheap, get the springs from JP. While you are at it, get the cooley comp too. You can get this clocked for left or right handed shooters.

Monarch UCC Scope 1.5-4.5x20 Sabot/Slug Black Matte Nikoplex works for me. I see why people like the pro-diamond type reticles but this works better for me esp. at longer ranges. It has about the same FOV as the pro-diamond, but I think the optics are brighter. I can't afford the Trijicon TAXX scopes yet....Some day...

Here in Minnesota, we keep it simple. Long johns under our long pants. Two undershirts and a heavy outer shirt. 1 Take off your jacket and gloves just before shooting so your fingers don't freeze up before the end of the stage. 2. Put your jacket back on before signing score sheet. 3. Put gloves back on. An easy 3 step method to keep those 20 below windchills from spoiling the match. and 4 Make sure the pasters stuck cause they don't stick as good in the sub zero's and Don't don't miss the "Freeze your gizzard blizzard" match!!

I use 4's and use Caulk to hold the thin shim in place, Works great. I had problems with the velcro tabs.

Since I know this subject is one that is covered extensively, the real addition or suggestion I wanted to make is the Dremel #425 wheel by hand previous to polishing with a felt wheel using flitz or your favorite polish. I think this is something that should be given some close consideration to those that tinker with the glocks.. It is so extra fine that it can not do damage or create visible cuts, yet gets the job done.... and gets in those hard to reach places... and is a little flexible. My suggestion is: 1. Never use power to stone. Very fine or extra fine sticks by hand are all that is necessary and in most cases un-nesessary for the patient person. If you use fine, be very careful as the cuts will be deeper than necessary and you have to get them out. I think natural stones are best (like Arkansas). 2. Follow with the dremel #425 wheel by hand. This smooths the metal to a near mirror finish. 3. Follow up with a polishing wheel using power (dremel) and flitz polish to mirror finish. Do not overheat the part. As you have heard repeatedly by other sources that I am sure are more knowledgeable than me, do not remove more material than necessary, and know the mechanics before you start.

I have found that the Safariland 5186 will do it all for me. The 5181 is also a good choice and gives added protection with the wings that function perfectly. The hosters are lined, and create little wear to the finish, they draw smooth and fast, muzzle exits at bottom of belt, IDPA legal and I can run like heck RO'ing and not worry about it. Best part.... My draw is the same for USPSA, IDPA, carry.. anything. That makes it the fastest, surest draw for me. I leave a 5186 on my CR Speed belt, and use a 5186 or 5181 for carry depending on if I want a paddle or not. http://www.safariland.com/products.asp?id=134

I currently use Arredondo base pads and THE magwells on my limited glocks and I dremmel out the magwell and any polymer material to make a very smooth entrance/exit point for the mags. My mags shoot right out the bottom at top speed. The THE magwells do seem very tight to put on, and it is easy to crease the polymer frame material as you described. Try the above and you will be a happy camper.