Hello Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Does anyone know how JJ attached the plates to the railroad tie in this video? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hello Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 Check six bump! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yz125mm700 Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I dont, but I don't see why you couldn't just take a hammer and drive them into the railroad tie a half inch or so. I would think they would fall and set back up fine. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I'd sure love to know as well. My plate rack is basically 2 sawhorses made into one long sawhorse, with a 2x6 and some reinforcement, and I use those same 8" knockovers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hello Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 I dont, but I don't see why you couldn't just take a hammer and drive them into the railroad tie a half inch or so. I would think they would fall and set back up fine. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Good idea; however, it would require actually bending over to pick plates up. Too much like exercise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outerlimits Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 if you weld on a piece of steel tubing on the bottom of the plate, then run a piece of rebar thru them across the RR tie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Hinge welded to the back side with the bottom of the target low enough so it stops just past vertical? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) ^ hey! That's a pic of my now-defunct airsoft plate rack. (Hence sheet metal plates. Not recommended for centerfire!) Edited April 7, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PKT1106 Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 The way they fell, I would say some heavy duty hinges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Or it didn't last that long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 (edited) A little update to this thread. I'm currently building a similar plate rack to JJ's seen here. I bought a 10ft 4x6 and mounted it on 4x4" posts concreted in the ground (4ft tall rack, 1ft in concrete) Before I mounted it, I ran it through a table saw repeatedly at about 1.25" depth, then chiseled out the left over material leaving a 1.25"x1.5" wide channel down the wood. I cut a piece of 1/2" rebar to 10'1.5" so the ends stuck out from the channel 3/4". All I have left to do is weld 4" pieces of 3/4" round tubing to the bottom rear of the tip-over plate bases, and then fix some end caps over the ends of the 4x6 with 1/2" holes for the rebar to protrude. I'll add some rubber dampeners and spacers as I tweak the rebar to prevent excess vibration/movement. After the tough stuff is done, I'll mount a 10ft piece of 3x3x1/4" angle iron across the leading edge to protect it. The plates use the original base for stability/indexing when flipped up, and getting the right "slight forward" angle is as simple as raising/lowering the rebar fractions of an inch. Should be a real solid rack within the week. Prices: -6 tip over plates, 8": $60-100 depending -10ft 4x4, 10ft 4x6, dozen 6" pole barn nails, bag of Quikrete, 10ft 1/2" rebar: $43 -10ft 3x3x1/4" angle: $36 -24" 3/4" round stock: free (maybe $10 normally) So roughly $200 for a pretty bulletproof rack. Planning to add a resetting system in the future with a Z-bar and a pull-cord. Will post pics when it's done next week. Edited April 27, 2016 by RippinSVT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 I make mine with the plate quite a bit higher that the pivot point. Makes them less sensitive to shot placement, even a low hit with a .22 LR at 200 yards will knock down an 8" 3/8 thick plate, and there is less stress on the hinge (the part that fails on most racks). Mine also reset using old power window motors automatically when the last plate falls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yz125mm700 Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 A little update to this thread. I'm currently building a similar plate rack to JJ's seen here. I bought a 10ft 4x6 and mounted it on 4x4" posts concreted in the ground (4ft tall rack, 1ft in concrete) Before I mounted it, I ran it through a table saw repeatedly at about 1.25" depth, then chiseled out the left over material leaving a 1.25"x1.5" wide channel down the wood. I cut a piece of 1/2" rebar to 10'1.5" so the ends stuck out from the channel 3/4". All I have left to do is weld 4" pieces of 3/4" round tubing to the bottom rear of the tip-over plate bases, and then fix some end caps over the ends of the 4x6 with 1/2" holes for the rebar to protrude. I'll add some rubber dampeners and spacers as I tweak the rebar to prevent excess vibration/movement. After the tough stuff is done, I'll mount a 10ft piece of 3x3x1/4" angle iron across the leading edge to protect it. The plates use the original base for stability/indexing when flipped up, and getting the right "slight forward" angle is as simple as raising/lowering the rebar fractions of an inch. Should be a real solid rack within the week. Prices: -6 tip over plates, 8": $60-100 depending -10ft 4x4, 10ft 4x6, dozen 6" pole barn nails, bag of Quikrete, 10ft 1/2" rebar: $43 -10ft 3x3x1/4" angle: $36 -24" 3/4" round stock: free (maybe $10 normally) So roughly $200 for a pretty bulletproof rack. Planning to add a resetting system in the future with a Z-bar and a pull-cord. Will post pics when it's done next week. Ever get this done?Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 https://www.atlastargetworks.com/collections/target-assemblies/products/poor-mans-plate-rack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 (edited) Ever get this done?Two posts down in this same forum:http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=232941#entry2597432 Edited June 1, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchris4769 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 I make mine with the plate quite a bit higher that the pivot point. Makes them less sensitive to shot placement, even a low hit with a .22 LR at 200 yards will knock down an 8" 3/8 thick plate, and there is less stress on the hinge (the part that fails on most racks). Mine also reset using old power window motors automatically when the last plate falls. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIOcNNcLxnU That's awesome! Care to provide details on the window motor set up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 (edited) It is a window motor driving a gear that the reset arm is attached to, On the larger one I used a Chevy flex plate for the "gear". The photo above is "transport" position, I cut the power when the reset arm is at TDC. That keeps the plates from being able to pinch fingers. Normally power is cut when it is BDC, so the arm is all the way down before power is cut, by the switch at the bottom. When the last plate falls it hits a momentary switch (closing it) powering the motor off the open lower switch, then it makes another completes a revolution before opening the bottom switch and stopping again. Edited August 4, 2016 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchris4769 Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 It is a window motor driving a gear that the reset arm is attached to, On the larger one I used a Chevy flex plate for the "gear". The photo above is "transport" position, I cut the power when the reset arm is at TDC. That keeps the plates from being able to pinch fingers. Normally power is cut when it is BDC, so the arm is all the way down before power is cut, by the switch at the bottom. When the last plate falls it hits a momentary switch (closing it) powering the motor off the open lower switch, then it makes another completes a revolution before opening the bottom switch and stopping again. Nice Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now