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Showing results for tags '357'.
Found 4 results
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I've heard that with a steady load of light and hot .357, after many founds (which is typical in competition), revolver frames stretch and there's nothing that can be done to save them. Is this typical with any revolver or with only certain ones from certain materials, certain brands, or certain calibers? More specifically, are there any revolvers that are basically indestructible no matter how much and what you shoot? For example, the Ruger GP100 or SP101? And how about the LCRs?
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I have an aluminum click cmore. I typically use two 357/303 batteries. Recently this scope has taken to killing the batteries incredibly fast. Today I was shooting and put two brand new energizer 357 lith ion batteries in it and literally in less than 3 min the dot had lost half its brigthness, cranked to the max it was barely visible. On a volt meter both batteries new from the package came out at 1.55+ v as you'd expect. When the dot goes dim, I pop them out and measure again and 1 battery is still 1.55 and the other had plummeted to 1.1v. This is the 3rd set of batteries that have gotten killed on my very very fast. At first I thought it was bad batteries, but each pair has been bought brand new from different lots and in the last 2 sets its the same story, one of the two batteries is still measuring 1.55 and the other is 1.1 to 1.2. thanks! sean
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I recently purchased a set of Dillon 357 Magnum dies and I am not sure if I am setting up the crimping die properly. I only have experience loading 9mm so this is my first time reloading for a revolver (S&W 686P). In the books I have as well as the internet videos I have seen, they show a roll crimp like the one on the first round (factory made) in the attached photo. The crimp applied by my new Dillon crimping die looks more like a taper crimp to me. I am unsure what a proper crimp should look like using the Dillon die. The round on the right is crimped so the rim of the brass is almost flush with the bullet (Missouri Bullet Co 158g LSWC). Is this the correct amount? I would appreciate any advice you would care to offer. TIA.
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I've been reloading other pistol calibers (9, 44, 45) using the case feeder without a hitch. But with 38/357 brass it takes FOREVER for the brass to get to the feed tube. I started with the recommended large pistol feeder plate but nothing would ever get to the gate. With the small pistol plate some get to the tube but it can't keep up even when I manually load the tube initially and I'm not going very fast. Any ideas/suggestion?
