wotfan

Thank you both for the comments. I'll give mineral spirits a try.

Thanks again for the information. I really appreciate the help. For my 38 Spec. loads I have lead 125g RNFP bullets. As for powder, all I have been able to find locally is IMR 700X. I plan to start in the middle of Lyman's powder range. I'll make sure all my loads have a good crimp and I'll watch the sooting on the brass. Is some soot on the case normal. The brass from the first 50 factory rounds (Blazer Brass 158g JHP) I put through had enough soot on the brass that 4 hours in my tumbler with new crushed walnut media didn't clean it completely off some of the cases (see attached). Should I be concerned that there may be something wrong with my new 686?

Thank you for the reply. Initially, I am going to load light 357 Mag loads from the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook so I will increase the crimp. Is there any way for me to tell if I am over crimping? Ideally, I would also like to use a 38 special load in 357 Magnum brass. Based on reading multiple threads on this topic, I am planning on starting with a mid-range 38 special powder charge with regular primers (CCI 500). Is this a bad idea? I really appreciate any comments.

I recently purchased a set of Dillon 357 Magnum dies and I am not sure if I am setting up the crimping die properly. I only have experience loading 9mm so this is my first time reloading for a revolver (S&W 686P). In the books I have as well as the internet videos I have seen, they show a roll crimp like the one on the first round (factory made) in the attached photo. The crimp applied by my new Dillon crimping die looks more like a taper crimp to me. I am unsure what a proper crimp should look like using the Dillon die. The round on the right is crimped so the rim of the brass is almost flush with the bullet (Missouri Bullet Co 158g LSWC). Is this the correct amount? I would appreciate any advice you would care to offer. TIA.